QTDDTOTT

i cant find them anywhere
besides the hubs are the exact same apart from a mounting flange for the caliper

There's a random car parked outside my house and it hasn't moved for several days is there anything I can do to figure out who it belongs to

private sale?
sales tax, registration and then its pretty much all repairs and make sure itll pass emissions if you have it where you are

> 94 Integra
> striped rear caliper bolt

What do.
PB blaster and go2 socket didn't work.

take a shit on hood, watch for someone to clean it
extractor set and heat

My transmission is shifting slowly and more clunky (2008 camry se) so I want to fix it. Should I

>flush it
>replace some of the atf
>don't touch it

the forums are a mess of conflicting information, some say it's a sealed transmission (there is no dipstick but there is an inspection plug) and to never touch it, others say to change only half of the atf, others say a full flush is recommended. Even if I shouldn't touch it I want to fix the transmission. it has gotten noticeably more clunky and I don't like it.

My other question is, if I decide to do a full flush or replace half of the atf, should I use the atf they sell at autozone, or should I use the OEM atf (much more expensive)?

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type IV ATF is super cheap off the internet
check prices from amazon and wallyworld
even from the stealership it's not unreasonably priced
>getting a jug of valvoline max life or similar
this is actually as or more expensive than type IV, around $7 a quart.
you could change half the fluid and see if shifting improves
but what is probably happening is your shift solenoids are starting to fail,
so it's all a moot point
>I want to fix it
go to a stealership or a toyota specialist and get a diagnosis first

Everyone agrees custom tunes are better than canned tunes but aren't cars that are stock running on canned tunes from the manufacturer. So what makes other canned tunes so much worse?

>buy old piece of shit
>naive youngfaggot so figure low mileage is all that matters
>1k kms later, shits fucked
>fix it, takes forever but try to do good job
>runs perfect now, worried other shit will start breaking
Should I sell it and cut my losses? I'd lose money on repairs, and the next car would be harder to work on without the experience, but for all I know this wasn't just bad luck, and the previous owner was terrible.

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friends truck just makes clicking noise when you turn the key, he said the battery is good and he tried ump starting but that doesnt work either. Could it be a short? or is it a starter issue? (i only know motos ;( )

can you hear the fuel pump priming when he turns the key? if not then it may be the key cylinder itself

I read a little more and the V6 transmission requires ws atf:
www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Automatic-Transmission-Standard/dp/B00CTUSEMU/

I think I'll take it to the dealership like you said and get a diagnosis and a quote; do you think they'll charge much just for the paperwork?

I was told by a mechanic friend that it's just an atf leak which I will have to find and fix, but if it's the shift solenoids, will that be a hard job?

bang the starter

2k is good for anything that runs without major rust or engine noises and decent tires. Engine noise and rust are deal breakers. Even rusted brake lines cheap and easy to repair can get expensive if caliper bleeders are seized. Tires can be a few hundred, too. Anything you buy in a private sale you'll want to put a t-belt on if it has one if they can't prove when it was done. Also make sure the obd monitors are set

Test light from battery + to engine block (do it, I got burned by complacency not doing this). It lights up, test light from engine block to fat starter wire. It lights up, put it on the little signal wire and have someone turn the key. Lights up when turn the key replace starter. If not test light between relay terminal 85 and 86, turn key. No light check power with key turn at 86. No power suspect switch. Has power look for missing ground. If lights up with test light between terminals 85 and 86, jump the relay with a wire between terminal 30 to 87. If it starts replace relay.

But it clicks so it's probably getting power at the starter. Be a safe internet diagnosis to say it needs a starter. But I've also been burned by a seized a.c. compressor. Take off the belt and try to start it.

So, got a car inspected by a dealership, it had been in an accident, told them fuck that, but then they've offered this + a free full vehicle inspection.

southaucklandmotors.co.nz/used/vehicle-details/?id=1216555&veh=2015-Mazda-3-GLX-2.0P/6AT/HA/5DR&pageNumber=2

What do you guys think? First real car I'm buying, seems nice enough (except for the damage on the bottom front left, but I'm not too concerned).

Only other cars I've really looked at are Civics (can't really find any decent ones) or Imprezas, but I've been kind of warned off of the maintenance of those (eh).

>dealer

>Not a dealer

>goes to a dealer
>unironically thinks a Mazda 3 will be a good car for an enthusiast
>getting the dealer to inspect the car that they're selling (?)
Lol

>First car
>Mazda 3
>Not good

Feel free to suggest me anything, it's the best I could find all things considered.

Also I'm having a trusted third party to inspect the car, not the dealership.

I've got a 2003 Lexus GS300 and it has this clicking (seperate from the injectors, those are a different sound) at idle that increases with rev until about 1500 RPM. however if you've begun driving and near 1k rpm while still moving the clicking isn't there, it's only from a standstill and then you begin moving, never while moving about.

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>good
Define good.

Compromise between reliability, affordability, and drivability. More leaning towards the first two, I just need a daily.

If you just need a daily, I'd get an old commonwhore/falcant

I'm installing a 12" ~200Wrms subwoofer in my car + an amp solely for that. I also have regular JBL speakers @50Wrms in front and back.
Shop said I should upgrade my speakers and at least amp the front ones as well.

What does Veeky Forums say? any audio experts here?

Is there a way to fix discoloration from the sun on vinyl?

This ISN'T dirt, so no amount of scrubbing with one of those magic eraser sponges is going to make it go away. In fact, it's pretty clean, all things considered. Also on a test area on the vinyl, diluted bleach started eating away silver coloring.

In the pic, you can see the original door color, and it's discolored from just being in the Texas sun for nearly 35+ years.

Any way of reversing it/restoring the original color?

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You should have upgraded the speakers before fucking around with a sub. You'll only need an amp for them if your head unit can't output the wattage for them.

Techncally no, you cannot fix it, the fabric is done for. You can try to use a same color leather restoring paste but i doubt it would help at this point.
You would be better off replacing the whole vinyl on that section of the door.

It needs to be painted but if that's uv damage it will probably crack and shit soon anyway, just go to the wreckers and buy a new trim

Think my head unit is capable enough for them. They're only 6.5".
I went for a sub because I'm missing low end in general.

You don't have to think. Just read the heads wattage output and what the speakers take. Good speakers will give you better lower end. If you're running a sub, make sure you get your levels sorted out once everything is in.

i just got an 83 Porsche 944. tires are all rotted but a second set of better tires came with it, theyre good and at %85 tread. however one has a plugged puncture on the inner sidewall. would it be pants on head retarded to patch over that and drive it for about a year until im ready to get better tires. theyre goodyear eagle gps’s btw, appear to be some kind of sams club special?

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First time testing a faulty fuel guage and im not 100% sure what im doing. The guage is stuck on empty. At the fuel pump i used a multimeter to test resitance, it read 90 ohms. tank should be around empty so that checks out. I tested it on the fuel tank side of its 2 pin connector. I also tested it on the dash, it also read 90 ohms. Heres the part that im not sure if if fucking up or not. So i disconected the two pin connector, i think the needle should move up to full but its not, still stuck on empty. So im not sure if the needle itself is broken or if i am mistaken somehwere.

I've got an old 4wd rav4 that eats rear diff mounts (common problem, might be solved by replacing all drivetrain mounts or that might just waste more money on this shitbox). Currently, the diff just flops around, so I thought I might make a mount out of metal but would that transfer the shock to the internals and cause them to explode?

gears arent made of candy, usually the concerns with solid or SUPER stiff mounts is NVH into the passenger compartment.
DIY some poly mounts if you dont care about NVH.

You should really buy a replacement but a 944 probably won't run often enough for it to really matter.

What car and have you tried a junkyard?

I have a 91 Miata that handles amazing (to me) on stock suspension but has no LSD. (I grew up driving pickup trucks to help my dad out)

I want an RX7 but can't afford it. I plan to sell my miata at a slight loss and buy a 94 with LSD to keep forever. If this isn't a good idea, what cars handle amazingly for under 4-5k? I'm not worried about power, I want RWD, Manual, LSD, and pop-up headlights if possible. Obviously the headlights aren't a necessity.

Over 100hp though, no 43hp 3 bangers pls.

Why not just put an LSD in your current Miata? It can’t be that hard to swap plus I’m assuming you’ve had it for a while so
you know the history somewhat

there are a few others
redblock volvos
post HG issue dodge/plymouth/chrysler neons
almost all toyotas, by extension lexus
old buicks

What do you think of this color? Is it a case of love at first sight, only to become unbearably nauseating after a couple months, or an actually beautiful color?

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American here. How would I go about learning stick? I don't think driving schools even have stick cars.
I know literally one guy who has one and it's his Miata, pretty sure he wouldn't let me learn on it.

The only thing you really need to do to learn stick, is to train your left foot to be more sensitive and less cumbersome. Once you have two equally competent foot, it's literally just a matter of minutes to learn the theory. Slowly lift your foot off the clutch while applying gas, never take your foot off the clutch in first, depress the clutch, go into second, and from thereon, it's like an auto, just depress the clutch whenever you want to shift.

Since it's a 91 and I wanted a Torsen for rain drifting and performance I'd have to swap out the rear half-axles(I think that's what they're called) and drive shaft. I'd also lose some final drive mechanical advantage but I want as much of that as I can get. Going down from 4.3 to 4.1 is about the level of performance boost the 1.8 has over the 1.6, plus the NA8s have bigger brakes, frame braces etc.

Once I start looking at replacing all the shit to get what I want it seems to make more sense to just sell my MX5 for about what I paid for it or a little less and buy something that already has what I want.

Too bad all the RX7s are 1k for a rolling chassis or 20k for a mint condition never farted in FD3S.

Guys I've got a "08 Avenger SE that's got around 62,000 miles on it and has started doing some weird ass sub 1rpm high low idle when stationary.

The fuck should I do? Take it to a dealership and hope it isn't a 3k problem?

Anyone with experience know if it's something I can solve myself. Does my air-filter need to be swapped out?

I found a 1990 RX7 in decent condition for a good price. Friend says it'll be an issue because I'll be doing major engine work every 6 months.

How true is this?

clean the IACV
APEX SEALS
P
E
X

S
E
A
L
S
sounds like gauge needle is broken

Canned tunes are fine if they're made for a certain set of mods or made to improve a stock car. Custom tunes are just about necessary for mods that don't have an accompanying tune

Looks like glossy undercoat desu

Are redblock Volvos as easy to work on as a civic or corolla though?

If you're going to go to the effort of changing any atf then you may as well drop the pan and change the filter, not sure about that specific car but usually you fill them until the fluid hits the inspection hole

Would you buy an 03' Sunfire coupe with ~170k kilometers on it as a first car? Seems to be in good condition as far as I can tell, just cosmetic damage.

What is normal for a slow coolant leak. My truck has consumed about 2.5 quarts over the past 10k miles. Theres no white smoke and the oil feels normal is there somewhere it could be leaking that i dont know about or is it evaporating. Its a 2002 5.3l avalanche

Dealership wanted $142 for a diagnosis (transmission problems have to go to a 'master tech'). Fuck that, I'm doing the ATF change.

The transmission doesn't have a filter apparently.

Has anyone here ever lost their car keys at the airport? I flew out this morning and had lost my keys by the time I went through security and I've had a nightmare of a day trying to contact Lost & Found.

I didn't cover much ground besides an airport shuttle from where I parked my car. Will my keys turn up or am I fucked?

Is a gauge pod cluster justified for a daily to monitor oil temp, oil pressure and voltage? My car has none of these on the dash. Just a low pressure light.

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>no trans filter
it has to have a filter or else will be sucking metal shavings and crap through itself, will probably look like a plastic container plugged in to the bottom as soon remove the pan, don't forget to clean the pan and magnet properly

Btw I'm not a Toyota expert so read your workshop manual before touching it

Oil temp isn’t that necessary, but I’d highly recommend oil pressure, and voltage is critical

What oil drain pan is not a meme? I'm looking at this one.

amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AMGYNA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522172859&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=oil pans for changing oil&dpPl=1&dpID=41NZxNNx6+L&ref=plSrch

Not afraid to.buy once cry once

Battleship grey? It can be fine with the right interior, if its grey on black then well that's just boring.

It works, but they tend to leak if you're holding it by the handle with oil in it.

There a gucci brand that does not?

Not to my knowledge, it's all chink made shit

It does have a filter, but it's a metal screen that can't be removed

Could you set up an engine to "diesel" while using gasoline on purpose?

What would be the upsides and downsides?

what is the cheapest, easiest method for sealing off the -slightly- leaky windows of a truck topper? using something I can buy at walmart, pls

the leak is not bad but if it is in the rain for more than like 12hours, enough water gets in to get my mattress wet. the main problem is at like the cab side window

Yeah several car companies have implement the technology, but it has to be precisely controlled to derive any benefit. Otherwise it will destroy an engine.

>otherwise it would destroy the engine
That I do know.

>precisely controlled
I heard of the newfangled engines that do something close to diesel-on-purpose-with-gas.

I was more asking if there was a way to jerry-rig it on purpose with an old diesel engine but set it up in a way to use gasoline without having a terrible day and then death or whatnot.

pretty sure this is a dumb question, but in the owners manual, it says to use Dexron ii or iii AT fluid for the power steering. Does that mean any other AT fluid brand that is specific to my car would work too?

Depends on who found it, and how quickly you can reach the airport L&F.

Airports incinerate trash because of the concern over pests and such, so time is of the essence.

tsa.gov/contact/lost-and-found

Look for adhesive caulk that color matches your top. DAP brand vinyl caulk goes for less than $5 at Wal-mart

Stick to what the manual says. Typically the seals in the powersteering system have compounds that work better with the specific formulation that it came with from the factory.

The problem with Gas in a diesel is lubrication, as the injectors won't like it and it may even corrode the fuel system, bypassing all that gasoline also burns hotter so that could cause issues as well keeping the engine cooling itself. .

Stupid question, but correct me if I have this down wrong. So is this how down payments work on a car? Let’s say a car I want is 10k, I put a down payment of let’s say 3k, so 7k is left due and that’s what they add the sales tax on and such? Idk why I thought they tax and add the fees to their asking price, not the price of after whatever amount you add for a down payment. Is that how down payments work? Like if I do that situation the final price I’ll owe is the 7k?

The tax is levied on the entire sale of the car.

If you finance a car through your bank, the bank basically buys the car from the seller and you pay the tax as the buyer.

Your finance payments comprise cost of the monthly principle + interest charged by the holder of your credit. There's nothing being sold while you're paying off the balance of the loan, so no sales tax is levied while you continue the financing.

So if you went overkill on cooling, you could do it? Not sure about how to deal with the injectors and fuel system.

Would it make good power?

Ah okay, so me putting down that down payment from money saved on my own doesn’t change anything? I’ll most likely use my moms credit on that end but I’m gonna sell my current car to a friend and use that money to pay off the rest of what’s due on the car. Those numbers I used are examples but similar to my situation.

so dexron (ii or iii) is just a formula which different company make them?

does anyone know where I can buy one of these japanese glow in the dark plates

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The down payment decreases the amount that you need to borrow. Over the life of the loan, it's cheaper to borrow $7k than $10k. You get a lower interest rate, and the principle is lower.

Depending on your finances and your credit rating, you could withhold some down payment and then pay extra your first month. You'd have to do some simple math to figure out what's in your better interest for your financial situation.

Check out this link:
calculator.me/vehicle/amortization.php

Enter your info (amount to borrow, length of loan, rate) and click on "Create amortization schedule" and see how each month's payment is split between the principal and interest, and the balance decreases. You can compare borrowing $7k and $10k and see how much more you pay if you borrow more.

It's always better to pay down on the principal as early as possible, so your monthly interest (calculated each month) goes down faster.

Gotcha, thanks user I’ll use that link and figure out my numbers. Do dealerships allow that though? For me to buy a car, setup payments and then I sell my current car and use that chunk of money to pay off what’s left on the car, like right away? Or should I wait a while or something.

Whoever you finance with will do the numbers and setup payments based upon your loan application.

If you buy through a dealership, you first should choose to finance with them (if they have a finance department) or through a third party, like your bank.

You can find auto loan rates offered by WF for example:
wellsfargo.com/auto-loans/rates/

A person generally qualifies for prime + X where X is an addition to the prime rate. The value of X depends on how good of a customer and you have good credit.

You should sell your car first, and then hand the money to the dealership to apply it to the cost of the next car, and the remainder is financed.

do the intellitronix 5-6 gauge panels include warning lights like CEL?

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I know when the suspension goes bad, it bounces a lot more than a normal one, but does torn boot that get stuck in the hydraulic give an fake sense of the suspension still fine?

How difficult would it be for a car scrub to swap a 1jz into a Mk3 Supra?
Should I just get a mechanic to do it for me or will that kill my wallet?

regular mechanics wont do that stuff, i was a tech for years and any swaps like that we wouldnt touch

i have a 7MGE Toyota Crown and looked into the 1JZ swap a few years ago, apparently you can run the 1J off of the 7M wiring. worth looking into. otherwise you can swap in the 1JZ harness and the rest should be nearly bolt in

Subaru and Mitsubishi sedans seem to be significantly cheaper than all other sedans here in New Zealand.

Any particular reason for this? It's tempting to buy one, but the prices have me suspicious.

damn, where do you live? I want a crown too

should i buy ll the detail materials and detail my car myself? or take it to the shop?

if do it myself, which products do you recoommend, do i need a buffer?