/CCG/ Classic Car General

/CCG/ Classic Car General

Gear Queers Edition
Incoming pasta:

>Cars are considered """classic""" at 25 years old, but a vehicle really needs that certain something to be classic and, no, your shitbox 1993 Honda Miata is not a classic.

>Everybody has their own taste, enter if it's of age or rarity.

>Post your classic, your work on it, your hackery, and get advice.

>Any and all discussion about classics welcome, but may not necessarily generate responses, don't get butthurt.

>Any and all classics welcome regardless of nationality.

>Performance > Cosmetics

>Metal > Plastic

>Classic shitbox > modern shitbox.

>It's perfectly fine to use RTV. Ignore the haters.

>If you see rust there is probably more.

>Rust and bodywork are by far the most difficult thing to repair.

>Electrical work is second most difficult.

>The hardest part of an engine swap is getting the wiring sorted out.

>Do NOT buy a classic and plan to pay somebody to work on it. You need to be able to do 90% or greater of the work or you will go broke.

>You will inevitably spend twice your budget, unless you have years of experience under your belt. If all the salty old hands agree, it's probably true.

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So you're telling me my 92 Lexus isn't a classic? Lame.

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Anyone have any experience with a 1970s Jeep Kaiser m715? I saw one with a white multifuel diesel motor. I don't know if that motor was used in Them or not. It has a 10 ton winch.

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man I miss when jeeps came stock with the equivalent of a cheap sheetmetal repair job. absoluteley beautiful

Aweeeeesome. Can build it for good power then. I read they have puking issues though, is that true?

It has to be a diode. When it was working, I diode checked it with my meter and it passed. It's not on the gauge cluster, I'm just assuming it powers the gauge cluster since it quit working right when the diode broke and everything else on the truck still works. Havent probed wires yet. It bolts onto the constant hot side of the starter switch.

That stude is looking good. You got any interior pics?

Kek. Hey Coastie, send me your t/a. I'll re-gear it for a modest fee now that I know how, and clog my garage for another 2 months.

Cool, but will need regearing to be used on the road practically. A friend and I went to look at 1 back in college; huge, but tiny cab.

Oiling issues* fuck

I dunno, I kind of dig older jap cars that were anything higher trim than economy.

based sort of off the FSJ platform, pretty good from what i've heard from owners

I'm really hoping it got a new gear set when they put in the 400. I do like the idea of cruising 70mph at 2k RPMs, I just hope it's not a dog off the line at stop lights.

From what I read for the history of them, even with all the shit to make them more efficient due to the oil crisis, the 79 was still running a 14 sec 1/4 mile, only a second slower than the 69-70 with twice as much hp (both with 400s and 3spds). So I'm not too worried about it, but still a bit.

Currently looking at purchasing a 70's corolla SR5. Is there any after market support for these cars? Also im kind of mechanically retarded. How do i find a mechanic for these thats not gonna fuck me in the ass who knows classics.

What is a good ratio to set it too? Do you know if they came stock as multifuel diesels? I want one to run on used oil x diesel I have on the farm. I would put larger tires and maybe a gooseneck hitch.

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If you aren't at least somewhat willing to wrench with a 70s car, don't buy it. Trust me, you'll be better off in the long run.

Same, but even though its 26 years old it looks too modern to ever seem like a classic

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I'm actually refreshing my memory on some of the variants, if that's a 73, you might have the lowered compression open chamber heads, but still way better than the 2V. Pic related, looks like yours. There's a few of ways around the side oiling "problem". I'm trying to find a decent section in this book.

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Oh and yes on the power, 400-600 horse and reliable easily.

Well im willing to do some stuff. The big stuff just worries me.

Look around on facebook to see if there's a local classic car community. See what garages and mechanics are referenced, check yelp and other websites or even just call up garages to see if they have experience working on classics and make sure you're happy with that before taking the plunge.

We are entering a strange time, where rock solid reliable Japanese cars are now technically classic cars. But which cars will actually appreciate aside from the Acura NSX?

do any of you guys know how to wire a wiper motor and switch for a early GM switch I'm trying to figure out how it works I'm thinking it's 12 volt into the motor and the motor sends electricity to the switch and by selecting the switch the switch grounds certain wires from the motor to make the motor perform actions am I right here

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It is a 73. Its 4v but that's all I know.

Well this thing definitely is a diode but doesn't power the cluster. I hooked it up to power and my gaugez don't come back, but the lighting on the cluster works.

So here's what happened. Backing the truck out of my garage to test gears. Engine dies because not warm. Try to start it and it's completely dead, nothing. Somehow I blew a 30 amp ignition fuse that I wired inline on the ignition circuit. Replaced it and it's all gravy. Go for a test drive and my gauges don't work now but all of the lighting does. All of the gauges are dead except the speedo which is cable driven.
That diode does something else, I'm not sure what but it doesn't go to the cluster. I haven't fully dug into the system yet, but does anybody know of anything like that on late 70s fords off the top of their head? Fuses are good btw.

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Oiling issues are at 6k and higher, at the main and rod journals

Has anyone in ccg completed a Fox Body Mustang project/light restoration and could give me an estimate of how much they spent and what they ended with? I’m in the midst of mine right now, it’s an ‘88 LX and the bottom end is at a machine shop as of Saturday. The motor wasn’t blown or anything, it just sat without being started since 2007 and had like 140k miles. I’m still undecided on my end result, I’m torn between going with a built NA setup to get close to 375 rwhp, or going with a almost stock build and getting a supercharger on 6-8 psi of boost. I’m also looking at a 5 lug and rear disk conversion, and maximum motor sports suspension kit for my turning needs.
Which build would you guys go with, and are there any other suspension brands would you possibly suggest over Maximum.

Can confirm this, light to light it feels like I have 18 horsepower total unless I jump on it and it flashes to stall and then kaboom hold on to your seatbelts cuz it's all hitting all at once.

So basically stall converters are witchcraft quadrajets are witchcraft rear end posi is witchcraft better prep my human sacrifices and my obsidian knife and jaguar pelt

Nah dude just swap in a 572 BBC and a t5 with a Dana 35 rear shitll be mad tight yo

I’ll pass in the swap, I already have the engine so I’m just gonna work with what I have.

>That stude is looking good.
Thanks. There's quite a lot of rust from the imperfect earlier resto and the PO leaving it in the rain, on the curb for year, but I was happy with how nice it looks with all the grime washed off.

>You got any interior pics?
Not right now, I want to do another before/after shot once I clean it out. I still have this mystery GI illness, this has turned out to be one of the worser days, so I'm not sure how much I'll get done tomorrow. I'm staying with my folks, I just miss my own home. Doing some more tests now, I hope there is an end to this.


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Never again will i do a painless harness finding diagrams is almost comparable to the search for the holy grail

There is a big oil leak on the Stude. It's coming from the crankcase cover. All the bolts are tight except the bottom one, which spins continuously. I guess the thread is stripped. Suggestions?

I guess the correct way to "fix" this is to drill out the hole and tap a larger thread, but I'll wait until I have the engine out for that. For a quick fix, I considered putting a bit of plumbers tape on the bolt. Think this might give me just enough traction to get the cover on tight?

I found a hand sketch of what i described on the chevelle forums it seems similar to what i described so im goimg with that

If the bolt itself is stripped it may work but at that point just get a new bolt. If its the bore thats bad that trick might not do anything. Hope this helps

>drill out the hole and tap a larger thread
In a sense, yes. I've had good luck with both wire-coil and bushing type thread repair inserts.

I'm not familiar with GV gearing, but most top out at 55mph, so depending on what you would want to do.

The only ones that I know came with a multi fuel engine would be the deuces and bigger. It's possible that those could've had them, but more commonly a regular engine.

Lots of temptation arrived today

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Mystery solved, its a circuit breaker. I have done a diode check on this thing multiple times since I've owned it because I swear I've had issues with it before. It passed the diode check every time. The fuck m8. It's severely corroded on the contacts though.

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Just got an email from the college, my transmission is finally done. [Soyface]

Thinking about putting a shift kit in my th350, I think my old one had one since you had to stand on it to get it to down shift plus when if shifted from first to second it would bark the tires.

What the hell why am I coastie?


Shift kits are dope dude. I have one currently in my streetfighter and it barks the tires. No kick down cable though but the secondaries opening under boost feels like one.

That was weird

Didn't you say your tranny was running a manual valve body?

It's proof you should come to the orange side... Your life will improve greatly.

Give it to me in retard form, what does a shift kit do?

This is my kit

Here's the specific transmission

Description: These TCI StreetFighter transmissions are durable enough to withstand the rigors of even the toughest street machines. Equipped with a manual/automatic valve body, most units allow you to manually shift the vehicle into each gear change or, by placing it in the drive position, remain fully automatic. In either mode, you get a race track shift that bangs through the gears and shaves time off of your ETs. When you use the manual gear selection feature, the StreetFighters upshift and downshift right when you move the lever, with no lag or governor override. When you select the normal drive position, they retain positive automatic shifts for the ease of driving you look for in an automatic transmission.

Basically it modifies the valve body and fluid flow in an automatic for harder faster shifts

You guys are hurting for bodies right now huh? I had a wook trying to recruit me over 2 weeks ago when I was going through the transition seminar

Shift kits are dope. It's completely different but I put one in my 03 crown vic. Granny car chirping tires. Feels good man.

Hey man, no shame in out sourcing the big shit. I did my own differential and transfer case but I sent my transmission out due to lack of work space to do it.

Yes and no. Honestly (and not trying to be a recruiter) if you like the structure of military life as in a steady income + benefits; and depending what rate you go, you could have a 9-5 (really 8-3) job with you home almost every weekend. USCG gets made fun of (if we're even remembered) for it's lack of military discipline. Idk about other branches, but how many time will an O6 join a bunch of E3s in a game of ultimate frissbee? Happens more often than you think. Shit, my base pretty much shut down last Friday just so we could play softball and eat crawfish while our CMC played guitar in a band for us.

Such a thing as too much take?

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Rake* fuck


None of that shit would ever happen in any of the battalions I've rolled with but it happens in pog units and and the air wing all the time. Shit at my seminar we had to go to the pog side of base and there was junior marine motherfuckers bowling with their staff ncos and officers like during the work day on a Wednesday and shit. Different cultures but it's whatever. CG seems cool because DOD/DHS gig. The lady was talking about maritime enforcement since I have experience in LE and been on ships and all that jazz. Idk though hopefully this sheriff shit pans out for me and then maybe I'll go reserves somewhere in the marines or coastguard or nat guard.

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Don't fall for the ME scam. Most of those guys end up as guards or training other MEs. If you want to do raids and stuff, you go to a small boat station or cutter (BM, MK, or GM (grunts, mechanic, gunners mate)) and become a boarding team member. If you want to shoot shit from a helo and work on planes/helicopters, go AMT/AET (aviation mechanic or electrician), if you want to be a PoG, go YN, SK. Or go MST like me and work with radioactive/hazardous spills or inspecting shit.

My unit is pretty laid back, but even cutters have their fun

'84 Corvette for sale for $3k. Daily driver material or should I pass?

thicc af and nice digets

I didnt have the tools so i volunteered it as a case example for the auto trans repair/rebuilding class. I didnt pay anything but i dont have a guarantee it will work. Im going out on a limb but i trust the instructor

What engine and tranny? Link the ad

Yeah that s too much.


I kinda want to see a car but also don't want to drive 3hrs one way if it doesn't pan out

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Blog post incoming, but a fair amount of you seem to have experience with this.

How can I ever trust my fiance again? I've always trust issues about potential divorce and taking half my shit. Even if she does turn around, how do you fix it at that point? She's been wishy washy and luke warm towards me for over 4 months now. She did a complete 180 around november last year. She was excited for the wedding and very loving towards me, now she's frigid and saying she wants to put the wedding on hold. For fucking what? She says issues that she never resolved before we got together. Is that code for another guy? Am I just fucking blind? She swears up and down there's nobody else and she always has my ring on according to her mom. Even if she does turn around, how can I trust her again? I know for certain my mom never will and that makes a whole bucket of other issues.

Honestly man, it doesn't look good. I'd try to get the ring back before having a talk with her. Ask her what she wants, express your concerns. I'd start looking for an exit strategy though.

Yea man I would pass too mostly because of that proprietary fuel injection system. I don't know anything about it and it's over 30 years old it's bound to fuck up. Malaise era shit is garbage too and that's from someone with a malaise camaro

I doubt it's another guy, issues she never solved sounds like she's just trying to stop you from blaming yourself, but women don't realize their funky emotional logic mostly just confuses men. Like I said before, it's possible she was not 100% down on being together forever, but just bit her tongue until it became too real, then she dealt with it the way women do, i.e. don't explain anything and run away. Regardless of what she decides, do you want to marry someone who isn't sure how they feel about you? Not trying to be harsh, after all I'm just guessing.

Not unreasonable but too much for meh paint and interior. That guy will get his price eventually but there are 3k examples out there that are practically pristine

I would start by having her explicitly enumerate what the fuck these "issues" are. That's one of my pet peeves when people use buzzwords and jargon instead of just blatantly saying "I'm afraid to commit. I'm not over my ex. I had an abortion" or whatever the fuck it is. My ex used to do that and that's a huge reason why she's my ex. It's like women think they can escape all culpability and and self responsibility by using these stupid terms. One of my best buds in my unit had his girl "go find myself" on a eurotrip while we were over in Japan and she basically just dumped him so she could fuck Luigi, Pierre, and Nigel (or Tyquarrius, Pajeet, and Achmed I guess) "guilt free" and then came crawling back after she came back because this dumbass guys her meals and gifts and shit. Stupid cuck hasn't even fucked her yet because "she's saving it for marriage"
Find out what the problem is and fix it (if it's worth fixing) or gtfo I what I would personally do. Doesn't sound very good tee bee aitch senpai but don't write it off just yet


Had an ex break it off cause needed to find "god". Turns out god was some other guy when she transferred schools. I was better off; I didn't fit in with her rich WASP family. But atleast she liked it in the butt and let me have a 3some with her friend.

How hard is it to actually put an engine into a car?

I've found a car that has been recently resprayed and everything is done but driveline, the guy got sick and has to sell it, but being a beginner into this sort of thing, how hard is it to do?

am i in over my head? put in an engine/trans, bolt up a driveline and do a bit of wiring.

If you can drop the subframe its easy if you have a crane

what if i don't

Kek. What a fucking cuck.
If she even suggests a break, or that she needs to find herself, etc it's immediately done right there.

People who say that kind of shit are fucking retarded. "Finding yourself" is the biggest load of shit there ever was. You are the sum of what you think and what you do, nothing more.

Can you lift several hundred pounds of metal with your bare arms?

Iron block V8 intensifies

i hope not. i would need an engine hoist (and friends) to get this bitch in

Harbor freight has a 2 ton crane that goes on sale alot i got mine for $170

I'd be prepared for her to randomly vanish. I hate the fickleness of women. So many of those are major red flags.

Anyone know much about importing cars from the USA to Canada? I get the feeling its gonna cost too much to be worth it but I'm wondering anyways.

Ditch the Bitch.

Cars > Women. Women are untrustworthy even though I trust my wife.

I can, but not when it's awkwardly shaped and weight distributed all fucky like an engine. Did bench press my transmission up though.
This. Love me some harbor freight. Half my shop at my in laws is HF and the other half is AutoZone sucks I don't have the garage though so I have to wheel everything out, work on the project then lug everything back into my storage shed. Currently browsing their physical catalog booklet and making a wishlist for when I buy my home with detached barn and set up my hobby shop. 4 post lift from summit though because not trusting a HF lift THAT much. Gonna be able to properly LARP like I know what I'm doing. Pic related cabinet looks pretty sweet and ive accumulated a ton of tools now more than my current kart can store organized, would also put in a hard wood work bench.

Anybody with a second gen f body done their tacho recently? I got a new wire and I know one end plugs into the HEI cap and the other goes through the firewall and onto the gauge cluster but I'm getting mixed word if it goes straight to the tach or into the big harness connector. Guess it won't matter once i take it apart and see for myself huh? Also my needle floats when off but when it receives power it drifts erratically and sometimes pins all the way around clockwise and back to zero. So I know I have power and ground, I'm thinking it current harness is damages (it melted on the headers) and I'm hoping the actual gauge is fine. Does this sound likely or is it the gauge? Got some more questions regarding Speedo driven gears too if anyone knows anything about that

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>bench press the transmission

Had to do the same with my th350since it kept falling off the jack, alone they're not too bad but with the torque converter they start to get a bit heavy.

Also with your tach check the big connector in the back of the gauge cluster and make sure your printed circuit board on the back isn't fried like mine was. I think the cluster is grounded through the bolts in a really fuckery kind of way so that could also be your problem.

Yea mine wouldn't line up onto the dowel pins no matter what we kept adjusting knobs and tilting forward back side to side and it wouldn't fucking go. Full of fluid and with the tc. Can't take all the credit though because I didn't start with it flat on my chest or anything I just laid under it on the jack and pressed it up of the jack onto the dowel pins while my buddy got some bolts in finger tight and then when I tired out he adjusted the jack up to support it. Then Benched the tailshaft up and onto the crossmeber and mounts. It was easier than fucking with the tranny Jack. I also had to bench a full gas tank from my wrangler the same way while my wife finger tighted the bolts, didn't have a tranny jack back then and was trying to use 2 trolley jacks and it kept slipping off.

Can rule that problem out I recently changed the printed board out and every other gauge is working perfectly. The tach has never worked in this car since I've had it but the PO said it did at one point. I found the melted tach wires shortly after buying it so I figured Its probably shorting or grounding out on the through the melted insulation to the body or it could be because the filter is melted too and that's causing erratic signal. So the wire gos from the distributor through the fire wall and into the big connector, which then goes to the printed circuit?

Had the same problem with mine about not getting on the dowel pins, I made sure it wasn't running into the torque converter and did the wrong thing the right way by inching up with the bellhousing bolts. We tried putting the motor and tranny in at the same time but the casting flashes on the top of the tranny were a cunt hair too tall and it wouldn't clear the tranny tunnel. So we disconnected them and a buddy lifted the transmission down through the engine bay and I benched it high enough to get it on the crossmember. Should have taken some pre workout since it was a good little workout lol!

It's probably the melted wires then. Check this link for a little more info, It's for a trans am but I'm sure it's about the same for you. Mine is all sorts of fuckered up since I have a cruise control car firebirdtransamparts.com/techinfo/harness/optionwire/optionwire.htm

Also did you have a question about the speedo gears?

Finally opened the engine up after pulling it from the ElCo. Still don't understand why PO painted a SBC ford blue...

Anyway...adjustable rockers yay!

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And its a 4 bolt 350! This means I can clean it up, reseal with new gaskets and O-rings and it should be good to go for now.

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Yea I had my Speedo working on my old transmission and then when I got the new one it didn't have a driven gear on it so I had to transfer the old driven gear over to the new one. It also came with a spacer that I put in too. Popped it all together and now my Speedo doesn't work since I've put in the new transmission. I don't think the old one had a spacer in it so I think that might be the issue. But the spacer came with the kit so fuck if I know. I did notice that my Speedo cable looks a little crushed right at the frame like I put the jack on it which I make sure to never do, but I had a friend help me out a few times so he might have done it. Now I don't know if the cable got separated internally as we were installing the new transmission or if the spacer is throwing things off and the gears aren't meshing. Guess I'll have to setup my cellphone camera on the gauge and twirl the cable between my fingers and see if its the cable before i go removing the spacer huh? My transmission pan started leaking recently which is apparently common in the streetfighters so now I have to retorque the bolts. I'm supposed to changed the fluid and filter after initial break in anyways so might just do that all at once while I'm fuckin with the cable

Tl;Dr have you had a spacer in your driven gear housing?

Is there a version of this, but instead of going by 500rpm increments, it goes by 5mph increments? All I can find requires a manual mph input, one at a time.

No sludge!

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No spacer in mine granted it's a BOP with their style drive gear. Also if you've got a drill I'd use that to rotate the cable since I don't think you'll be able to spin it fast enough by hand.

I did it once before by hand. It won't actually get anywhere because I'm not spinning it 5mph or whatever but the needle should wiggle. If it doesn't move at all then the cable is severed. Wonder now what the fuck that spacer was

84 first year of c4 that crossfire injection was short lived replaced by TPI in 85. 700r4 autos prior to 87 weaker. 87 got alum head and rollers. 89 got 6spd manual

Fair enough, I dunno what that spacer is. Hopefully it didn't mess the drive gear up!

Its going in next week lads!

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Hopefully. I might have some time this weekend to do all that and hopefully get the tach and Speedo working. I wanna take note of engine rpm at speeds and shift points for when I go in to regear the rear diff. The 3500 rpm stall converter kinda sucks for part throttle cruising and has softened shifts at part throttle speeds so I might just start manually shifting the transmission all the time a la Dominic Toretto. I'm sure the fact that its a vacuum modulator controlled unit and hooked up to an engine that makes boost doesn't help either. When I punch it though fuck does boogie hard

Is a 1984 Beetle a classic ?

Bought a hatch 87 corolla(hope its old enough to ask about) this weekend to replace my 71 corona and was wondering if pic related is fixable? Like should I just tac in some plates or bondo the shit out of it

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Thanks guys, I'll keep looking.

bondo is usually not recommended, especially in high-abuse areas like wheel arches. Shits porous and will fall apart.
Smaller holes may be able to be spot welded, otherwise will need to be patched (no personal experience with welding, don't take my word for it)
Ive also seen mentioned the reinforced POR15 method, but I've really only seen it used on things like floor pans.

I just purchased a 1972 Mercedes 250 at a steal in amazing shape. I ordered a some items like plugs/wires and cap/rotor to replace the old shit. Plus all the filters for the fluids. I have a few questions.

The original Mercedes owners manual recommends a 20w-50 oil for out here in the desert (Las Vegas) is that useful 40 years down the line? Which weight do I need to use and what brand. Some people recommend a 15w-40 diesel oil for additives that bind and help the metal. Im so confused, its a 2.8 I6 Mercedes M130 engine if that helps.

Also the power steering system calls for ATF Type A/Suffix A which hasn't been made in 5ever. Or dextron I which is also impossible. I wanted to flush out the old brown ATF in it and replace it with modern synthetic, is that a good idea? I read mixed things online. Same with the transmission, I want to flush and do modern synthetic in it.

Thank you



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Btw did u have a ratcheting shifter i think we talked about? If so do u know the model and brand? I wanna do it to my camaro but I don't want to have to add a base plate in case it doesn't mount to the floor. Was wondering if you had one and how the install went