WIP Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

holy fuck I'm so sick of seeing sideways pictures here lately, nevertheless 4MB ones too

someone post the picture taking guide

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Thin your paints.

Your wish is my command.

Thin your paints, work on the freehand (Are those Red Templars?), needs more layering, and THIN YOUR FUCKING PAINTS.

All in all not a bad first effort.

thanks, wish there was more about cropping/resizing/rotating though

Have any of you ever tried to paint something to look like old Asian laquoured wood statues?

If so, any hints? Hoping to get my wraithguard to look positively ancient

That's so nice, love it.
Base is a little dull for my liking, but still a great mini.

G-Greek lettering...

Supposed to be Sanguine Shields

anyone have an easy and cheap guide to making snowy bases?

>always wanting things to be both easy and cheap

Pick one, faggot, because baking powder snow looks like shit and yellows.

Get out.

But srs, work on freehand.

My camera is busted right now but I have a question.

My Marines are teal and I'm trying to decide what I want to do with their bolters.

I was thinking red bolters would look nice but I might be wrong.

Should I do red or stick with default black?

I recently purchased around 20 citadel paints and all the citadel tools (sprue cutter, files, blades' drill etc) for 130 aussie dollars. Did i do good or did i get ripped off. Most paints are still sealed and the tools are in excellent condition

>Buying GW tools

You fucked up, son.

Okay, I need some serious help here; after spilling my pot of noln oil a little, the entire thing now runs blotchy and dries shiny. Will i just need to buy a whole new pot of paint, and if so, is there a cheaper but equal black wash? Or is there a way I can fix this?

Paints are pretty good, sans liquid greenstuff. Never get that for greenstuffing.

tools, they're better than army painter's and while they're pretty expensive overall I'd say it's worth it. I've had my set for a couple years now and it's all working fine, despite roughhandling them quite frequently.

whereas the army painter cutter I bought snapped at the blade base two weeks into use. Nearly cut open my friend's neck when it flew off.

I love your effort. You jumped in and you wasn't scary to try freehand.
Here are some advices:
-Use different colors on the bases, or they ll look one piece with the model.
-Work on your brush control. It isn't bad at all for a first try, but I see some smudges.
-Thin your paints with water (it's free). I know it sounds like a meme, but remember its is better to do more thin layers than a solid one.
-For the love of God, turn your pics. It's a few minute effort and ll prevent anger trown in your general direction.
-Last but not least, have fun while painting.

If it's fucked up, just get another pot of Nuln. It's seriously 4.25 USD

The sprue cutters look good, have a solid construction, and have a unique shearing feature, but yeah, they are overpriced and unnecessary. The drills, files, and especially the horrid box cutter are probably wastes. The only tool he really got screwed on was the knife.

Any recommendations? The Sanguine Shields are meant to evoke Mad Max Macedonians. I there a way to paint sand or dry earth without blending in with their tan?

>is there a cheaper but equal black wash?

It's black, so it's pretty easy to match. Vallejo black, Secret Weapons MIniature black, and the closest match, Army Painter dark tone (which is Badab Black, not Nuln Oil) are all cheaper.

If you spilled your pot before shaking it, you're screwed. If you shook it well then spilled, the remaining mixture should still have enough medium and pigment in it to be a normal wash, and any shininess or frosting is due to you not shaking or painting the wash on right/letting it pool.

But if you had an unshaken pot and spilled it, you may have spilled the majority of the binder or the pigment, leaving a useless pot behind as it'll be all pigment/no binder or all binder/no pigment.

No worse than my first. Others have covered it well, so I'm going with other comments;
-Choose a light undercoat for light colours, it'll help with even colours.
-Highlighting would breathe a lot of life into these guys
-When people say thin your paints, what they mean is that you rushed and put thick paint on to try to colour the mini, when multiple lighter, diluted coats would make a far more consistent layers.
-Use washes or inks, they really bring out the details
-Little designs like on your Marine's legs work doubly well when you do multiple coats for a more solid colour. Additionally, it looks like you might have too much paint on the brush when you are painting.

Altogether, it's not a lack of potential that's holding you back, it's technique, which can be learned with a bit of guidance. Look up a few tutorials, if the methods seem too slow or complicated, try painting spare bits/minis using the method. Normally it's that way because the layers add up to a really pretty finish.

Remember, take your time. You'll have them painted forever if you varnish them. Painting is not a race. If you put the hours in you'll love the results.

>I there a way to paint sand or dry earth without blending in with their tan?
Hard mode: Find some really fine sand (you can even buy it), mix a pinch in a bowl with water and PVA glue then apply to base with an old brush. Let it cure. Paint it with a dark colour then drybrush with a lighter tone.
Easy mode: Buy a GW Texture paint and apply it to the base.

orange maybe

Tools came with a few brushes too but theyre all pretty fucked and i know citadel brushes are shit anyway, what are some alternatives?

Tbh you still want to wash and drybrush the texture paints. GW texture paints are just "I hate money" mode, while Vallejo's are "Easy but more costly than sand and PVA" mode.

Tip from the manager of my local on GW's textures: if you're doing a big area and will use the whole pot, or you're coming to the end of the pot, you can get access to all the expensive texture you paid for by sawing the pot in half. (He went through like 10 pots recently doing a bunch of scenery).

>Sanguine Shields.

The one chapter that I created that became famous/popular.

This pleases Tzeentch.

Remember to give the Sergeant a purple shoulder.

I'm recreating the dark eldar faction from the painting book that was metallic purple, but I'm going to go with metallic blue.
Is black shoulders/cloth and bright green venom and gun juice good complimentary colours?

The trouble is finding the right colour purple. And that tan is paler than I remember...do you think Bone would be better?

I'm by a beach, shouldn't be too hard.

Message received. Wouldn't varnish make them Shiney though? I rather enjoy the beat down look

Nah mate, the tan is the same one I've used in every pic.

Your models look great for first time ones mate!

I used bone for the Aquila, mostly as a subtle constrast to the tan, but if you want to use it for the whole body, go for it man!

You can get varnishes in gloss, satin, and matte.
Just don't buy GW's 'Purity Seal' - it is awful.

The paints would run you at $120 AUD new, that's a good deal

Was wondering if I could get any tips about this. First time working with thunder wolves. Any help is appreciated

Sadly, I cant find any of the small pots. All thats left are the tall ones, which are 7+ usd.

I see. Well that sucks, since I had just gotten it. Anyways, thanks for the help on this, I'll definetly check in on those. Anyways, one more bit of help, do you have any recommendations for a black spray primer? Chaos Black from GW was pretty good, but Army painter had been rather bad over All; too thick compared to
GW's

Have you seen Duncan's tutorial on them?
youtu.be/-EIKHXgymJY

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Green Knight WIP, thoughts?
Have just got him to a level im comfortable with taking him to tournaments, want to highlight further and try freehand on his barding later down the track.
Also still need to paint and attach his shield

Someone converted nightgoblins so as to be 'Tzeench Horrors'. Does anyone know offhand how hard it would be to hollow out their faces and trim off their arms and feet like pic related?

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For starters, learn to RESIZE your images and make them into a collage.

It's considerate to others and makes the thread easy to follow.

man fuck yellows. it isnt even that the primer shows through or anything like that, it's just yellow layer paints like yriel look like shit on top of a base like aversun

The arms and feet should be easy, the faces not so much. I'd get a big drill bit and exacto and just try to carve/drill it out then smooth it with green stuff.

inb4 moronic newfags start sperging out about first world bandwidth

>moves foot
>knocks everything the fuck over

I know the paint job is shite and definetly not Thor themed but what do you think of the wings on hammers for my dwarf warrior vet?

So, I've been on a painting hiatus of about a year or so, and I just now remembered I had a pack of open green stuff still in the freezer.

Is that shit ruined, or is it still usable when I get back into working with it?

Ugh I bought the Renegade Knight box set and I want to build both them at double Gatling gun wardens but I need the bits for 3 gatling arms and I can't find any and ebay is being a shit about it (seriously they are going for like $30 a piece on ebay)

Any ideas?

is it the strip kind where the blue and green parts touch or is it the bog tube of green stuff with the two compounds separated?

If the former you might be ok, since the cold slows the reaction, but the only way to know is going to be to let it get back to room temp and try it out.

Batjet/10

Separate strips, I keep them in the same container, but they weren't touching.

You only get one included? I would just make a different Knight.

>not touching

Oh then you're fine. Don't worry about it.

I mean I wouldn't leave it there another year though

Okay, I was just worried that being in the freezer for so long would mess up the individual components. I kind of got in a bit of a laze when I ordered a desk to set up in my room specifically to paint on, so pretty much everything involved with my painting work has been sitting in a corner collecting dust, but I finally got around to cleaning up and getting ready to finally set the desk up and get back to painting and model work. I can't believe I had completely forgotten about my green stuff though, it was buried under half full bags of broccoli and fries

Does /wip/ know any good wood furniture guides? I want wood on my lasguns.

Grav guns are $10 and marine lists need like 10+ of them so I say just pay the faggots on eBay.

Try hades autocannons?

I remember someone saying a lot of vostroyan guides show it a few weeks back

I had actually though about asking around how to get loads of gravguns. But I realized my local meta doesn't really have a lot of armour anyway so I guess I dodged a bullet. Just really wanted tacticals that had any reason to bring heavy weapons along.

I can't believe I didn't think of that, thanks.

So, how many of you guys just do modelling/painting work, and don't actually play the game?

I do play the game but it's just so infrequent I might as well be painting only. All the stuff I buy and paint is meant for the games I never get to play.

Me. Currently workong on my IG, going to pick up the SM start box once I finish, still need to decide on which IF sucessor I like most.

How difficult are tattoos to paint on savage orcs?
Thinking about starting a savage orc army (orruk?)

Depends on what kind of tattoo. You can either make it purposely messy to fit the Ork style, or make it clean and neat. If it's the latter, you just need a steady hand and a clear image of what you're painting. Preferably use a pen to mark the tattoo before hand and then fill it in if you want it neat, or messy too, if you want a purposeful messyness

I don't play at all. I have a few rulebooks downloaded, but I have no where to actually play nearby. the only game shop is Emerald City, and it's a hell of a distance to go when theres not even a guarantee I will play against someone, after all the Warhammer stuff is stuffed all the way in the back corner on a single aisle, and even then it's the Fantasy that gets the most shelf exposure, while 40k is on the bottom shelf, or just single mini packs.

Hades Autocannons aren't much easier to find but I also need the mounting for them from the gatling gun bits anyways still

Although it would look super cool and chaosy so i want to do it still

just painted my first painting, what do you guys think?

every time I see pics of someone's first mini they look fucking amazing that I sometimes think "no way that's your first"

If it makes you feel better, this was my very first mini

put some form of gloss varnish on your snow flock when it is drying to make it look like wet snow

First models look great.... right... These were my first models that I painted 16 years ago.

Dark or bright green would maybe look good. Its hard to say without a picture.

Any got any model lines/examples of robotic dwarves? Like, robots, androids, that sort of thing.

Especially bigger designs and the like.

Do not use beach sand. Its way too coarse.

it's rough and it gets everywhere

Pardon?

What kind of sand do you recommend?

I have seriously considered buying the painter kit just for those guys.

this doesn't even look bad though

ROTATE AND CROP YOUR PICTURES

Usually the best kind of modelling sand is the same kind they put in sandboxes, you can buy a huge fucking bag for pretty cheap, and it will last you pretty much your entire life.

Dont try to be nice user, I know it's pretty shite

They're pretty awesome, and snap together pretty tightly, I didn't even need to use glue save for the bolter arm for the guy on the left

If i wasn't at work i would post my first cultist. Its not bad, its just not good

my first mini

>JUST

Also because I want to display my progress, this was about three months after my first model, my most recent works before I went on a break

this is where im at now

clubhyper.com/reference/woodgrainel_1.htm

Slow progress on the Kill Krusha