Minature Painting and Modelling General

Yeah it smells terrible. Be sure not to let the models sit in it though, even non-acetone will eat plastic if it's left in there long enough.

Just letting them sit for a few minutes to get that last bit of primer off.

Last time I ever use a non black/grey/white primer, I tell you what.

No, Windex has ammonia which will ruin certain brushes.

>Is using Windex/Water mix a good way to clean brushes while painting?

Cleaning *while* you're painting?

I have a big cup of water that I rinse my brushes out in. If I'm painting with a metallic paint, I use different brushes and a different cup, or else I stop what I'm doing and clean both the cup and the brushes before switching from non-metallic to metallic or back again.

The actual brush *cleaning* comes after I'm done with the session.

>No, Windex has ammonia which will ruin certain brushes.

I also imagine the addition of the extra chemicals might change the flow properties of whatever paint you're trying to use while you're ... well, you know, painting!

that's the point of windex in water, cheap flow improver

:y

To be fair, they don't marathon it's fume inhalation like you are doing with all those models.

That is true.

I'm sure I'll die long before my wife does, at any rate, given how much fumes this hobby puts into my head.

So I'm trying to build terrain from various materials, just playing around with them, got a few ideas and testing a couple of methods to glue them together.

Currently I'm trying to build an ammo crate out of coffee wooden stirring sticks. Got some clay as well, maybe I'll build a stone wall that's half blown off or something.

...

>I also imagine the addition of the extra chemicals might change the flow properties of whatever paint you're trying to use while you're ... well, you know, painting!

A tiny drop of Windex is a very popular surface tension breaker and flow aid for airbrushers/wash users. Dish soap has also been used.

Reposting WIP of my green knight for thoughts/critique. Still need to highlight the greens further & want to try freehand on the barding eventually too.
Also missing his shield atm.

So, I move around a lot. What's the best way to safely transport a bunch of minis?

The glue could do with cleaning up, but pretty solid nonetheless.

looks good. just needs higher highlights to make it really pop. everything looks great, you just need that final 10%

the only safe way to transport them is by using a foam case either by buying foam, cutting it in size for every miniature until you have enough slots for all of them and then encasing the whole foam in a hard case or you can buy a case for them with those slots already made.

Finally figured out how to properly photograph infantry.

May also have figured out how to properly highlight them, too.

He's not perfect, but he's only a sergeant; I knocked out him and his squad over the course of a week.There's maybe eight more like him to go.

Plus it causes CNS damage. You absorb it through your skin in addition to the vapor. You really should use something else if possibel

Use smaller scale like 6mm and magnetic bases. Get some boxes and put a steel plate in the bottom for the magnet to stick to. Galvanized steel roofing flashing sheets can be bought for extremely cheap at a hardware store. Since the base to height ratio is so high they basically cannot tip over and the magnets will keep them from knocking about from bumps.

Can anyone recommend me some alternatives to gw brushes? Im not spending 10 bucks per brush thanks

So, a while back I figured out a way to potentially make dirt cheap Valhallan's. I was gonna post pics in the thread, then life happened.

So now, way after everyone has stopped caring, I show you my results.

Tips if you want to try this
Pros
>The warlord greatcoat infantry are pretty cheap, even if only 25 out of 40 are greatcoats. Plus side, you can direct order sprues from Warlord so you can get them cheaper
>Victoria Lamb weapons work well with them, especially now that weapons are resin they'll be easier to work with.

Cons
>GW weapons are fucking stupid big compared to them, I'll give you a close up picture of the GW weapons in a bit, it really highlights how big GW weapons are.
>other than weapons, all these guys have is Soviet gear. You'll want some extra sci fi bits I think to future them up a bit, but they look good as is

I don't have any heavy weapons or I'd make a heavy weapon team with the prone bodies. On the bright side, a single box gets you 20 regular infantry and 5 prone guys to use for heavy weapons, you just need a source for weapons.

Let me know if the pics are too big, this is a new phone and it's a bit finicky with photos

Rear view with all the kit they come with. Lots of shovels, hip bags, backpack sacks, etc.

Fun fact, the chainsword is literally taller than the guy carrying it.

Also, the meltas are huge too.

I personally would recommend third party chainsword and special weapons. Vic makes good ones that obviously fit this scale, but mad robot makes good stuff too. If I wanted to make an army of these guys, I'd probably go all Vic for weapons.

Shit uploaded the blurry photo by accident.

Heres the better one

Just PURGED almost $3,500 worth of 40K I have collected over the last 2 decades. BA, DA, SW, GK, -=][=-, and old metal Eldar.

Distilled it all down to my Thousand Sons, Daemons of Tzeentch, and the core (and mostly new/current models) Eldar.

Feels. So. Good.

Now I am just breaking everything down into organized bitz containers and/or fully constructing the core elements of my armies.

Bought myself a Chaos Vindicator as a present ;) It's also what I have wanted to finish off my Thousand Sons for a really long time. Just wouldn't allow myself to buy anything new until I got rid of my HOARD.

>Distilled it all down to my Thousand Sons, Daemons of Tzeentch, and the core (and mostly new/current models) Eldar.
Oh, and I have a small Harlequins force that is on sprue on the walls still (and one set of the previous finecast models).

Are you the man they film vertical cell phone video for?

>old metal eldar
you sold it all I assume?

LOL, I put it like this specifically to avoid watching videos and never even thought of that!
I like it for viewing Veeky Forums and blogs/tutorials. I can turn it horizonal.

Yes sir! To one awesome dude that I am sure I will play some games with in the future. He started right around the same time I did and was right about the same age. It was nice to see it all go to a nice home.

Me: What do you play?
Buyer: Everything.

I grabbed some army painter brushes, they worked pretty well, but if you dont mind shelling out a lot of money for brushes that will pretty much keep you set for the rest of your life, you can pick up Winsor & Newton Sable brushes

lovely work, user. That's all.

Please tell me that you're using a mask and doing this in an open place.

>painting devilfish
>leave underside just basecoated because nobody will look at it

DEVILISH
E
V
I
L
I
S
H

You don't sculpt something like that in one mix.

Can someone identify this for me?

I actually like the look of the GW weapons on them. Helps bring them in line. They are like new recruits, still in their teens. Probably won't survive the fight.

Just going by the weird white material, could be kingdom death, but I could buy that head as an old GW sculpt. Got a better photo?

Bones, maybe?

That's amazing. Love the neatness. Great work!

nope, all I got. it's in an ebay lot with some other Chaos stuff that I think I can get a good deal on.

It's Rauthuros from the bones line.

reapermini.com/Miniatures/Bones/latest/77111

Google is literally magic.

awesome, thanks

Anyone have advice for using army painter colour primer? got a can of the uniform grey i'm gonna be using for some gates of antares stuff, anything in particular i should know about it?

First 11 Imperial Fist Legionaries. Might touch them up a bit later, but right now focussing on getting the entire army tabletop.

Army Painter dries fast so you have to hold it closer to the models. Like closer than 12 inches. Read the can's directions if you don't believe me. They'll tell you the distance you should hold it at.

The problem with spraying so close is that AP cans also have a fire hose like shotgun nozzle. It's very easy to overspray and drown your miniatures. So be sure to do fast, fine spritzes and mists. Don't just hose your models down.

So I'm looking to upgrade from cheap nylon brushes to Series 7 Sable brushes. Do you guys generally use the miniature brushes more, or just the standard rounds? What size generally? I want to start with 2 or 3 in the most commonly used size and style at the moment.

I think they're the same. Miniature just has a shorter handle. Size 0 is all you need. If you need one slightly larger get a size 2. They have practically the same point so if you're comfortable with the 2 you don't even need the 0.

Raphael 8404 is better than W&N S7. Pic related, from top to bottom is S7 miniature, S7 regular, and Raphael 8404.

Don't know why you morons keep hyping up W&N S7 as the "best" brush. Guess you've just never held better.

Red and green grenades look like Christmas ornaments and don't really mesh with the yellow armor. I'd change it to red+metal to match their eyes, or just metal.

Everything else looks great.

I wanted to ask since a few threads back user..
Why you nail your sprues to the wall?

Small Malifaux Mansion update. I've got some scrap booking paper cut out for the third floor as a test. I think the pin stripe paper could work better due to scale but it literally make my eyes hurt.

I would guess it so it's not all in a box taking up limited shelf space and it also has everything out in the open so you get a reminder of what he has left to build.

Thoughts on this custom kitbash Tarantula Sentry gun? Gonna make two more like it. Just need to find some spare bits floating around to glue onto the white plasticard on the front to add some detail.

Pretty darn good. It looks like what it's supposed to be too, which is always a plus. ;)

Really like how "clean" he looks, great job on the face.

Be aware that the spray cap is a lot stronger than the one on Citadel sprays (if you used them before), it's very easy to blast details into oblivion. I personally hate it, like everything AP offers, apart from Soft Tone and Dark Tone ink. Their brushes are utter shit as well. Sorry for ranting.

Use regular, miniature have shorter bristles. I have brushes of both varieties but the regular sees more use. Get a 2, 1, 0 possibly 00

Finished my grail knight champion tonight, thoughts?

Love the fabric highlights

More lamenters, just a bit more touch up and highlighting to go for the vet sarge

It looks dope. Great job dude!

Just doing some weathering on the fortress, is too subtle or does it need more?

No, looks really good like that. Don't overdo it.

Have you considered mixing a bunch of washes and picking out stones?
It's not too much work if you use the right brush, but it would probably take this whole thing to the next level.
Like this building here.

The space between the stones looks a little shallow, maybe you could pin wash it with a dark dirt paint.
Or just apply the paint all over and then rub it of with a cloth so it stays in the recesses.

Aside from that it looks really good already, just a little too uniform imo.

I wanna sculpt a bear headress in my mini but I've never sculpted before, any advice?

When do bloodmaws paint there mouths red? Is it a right of passage? I need to know before I paint them all.

Read this. Got some stuff on hair and fur.
You can also use stamps instead of carving it by hand if you got a good source for it.
And just in general block out the shape first.
Something like a rectangle for the snout and the general headshape, slightly smaller than you want the volume of the final piece.
Once that has dried you can add the texture and details onto that without worrying about the general shape turning into a blob anymore.

Isn't that just part of Bran's company's scheme?
Just curious btw, I'm not that deep into SW lore.

Yee, but I don't know, i read something once and can't find it again. They all have black heads, it's the red mouth that I don't know.

Yea i've done the wash thing before, see photo. I did consider it for a little bit but then seeing how many bloody bricks are on each wall it would take forever and with this castle i just wanted quick and easy. I do plan to go all out when i start to paint my tabletopworld blacksmith building.

Anyone know what tool he's using in the Removing Moldlines video?

And if you were wondering where Green Stuff comes from...

Well this other user pretty much nailed my reasoning. You will notice I said I got ride of over 3500$ and over 2 decades with of stuff. I even had boxes still. Like, Rogue Trader SW Long Fangs still with the box mint. I was sick of it all staring at at me.
Plus... All that wall space doing nothing! Also a lot of my bits containers went to the buyer ;)

thanks so much, this is very helpful

Mind that a really high-end brush is not strictly necessary for good work. Keep it clean and control your hand and you can still do pretty good.

and pic related; I did it with a single Citadel Psycho and a $4 pack of modeling brushes from Walmart, plus about 6 or so colors of Vallejo paint and 4 Citadel washes.

I only use natural, cruelty free vegan greenstuff, you backwards savage.

what paints are you using to get that nice white colour on those insignia's ?

But the cruelty makes it stick better and harden faster

Tried some freehand - it went pretty well but it feels like a lot of pressure, don't think i'll try any more for a while but I'm happy with how it came out

It looks good.
Time to start the Furry jokes

Even the FW fb page has to tell people to properly take pictures.

>don't think i'll try any more for a while but

No way! Keep practising, you certainly have the hands and eyes for it. Practice on some paper, but try to replicate that fox in the circle on the terminator's banner.

Get lights in the 5000-6000K range. Tape a piece of parchment paper (that you should already have on hand for your wet palette) over the bulb to help defuse the light to avoid harsh white reflections on the mini. 2 or more light sources are recommended.

Good little graphic, though. I like it.

Also, use PS (or GIMP) to quickly adjust the Colors -> Levels -> Auto while you are cropping that image.

The pdf they put up in the same post is great as well but too heavy for posting.

Any ide on how to reduce it on a phone? Or if someone can do it on their computer and then post it here so that it can be saved it would be great.

I have a stylized icon for smaller banners and shoulders, just wanted something grand for the large one - but thanks for the kind words!

haha, going with a whole desert fox imperial british big mustache vibe - think thornberry meets fennec fox, SMASHING!

THE WORK OF ONE WHO CONSORTS WITH BEASTS

Hello /wip/, does anyone here have the FW Fellblade?

I want to convert a GW Baneblade into a Fellblade and the only thing I am missing now is:

How big is the horizontal firing arc of the Quad-LasCannon?

Thanks in advance

There you go lads, a nice and easy guide in how to take some proper pics, resized by yours truely.

The next chucklefuck to post a sideways 5MB picture gets all of Veeky Forums's dragon dildos in his rear end.

>Tape a piece of parchment paper [...] over the bulb to help defuse the light

My lights don't get too hot, but as parchment paper is also used for cooking, it has a pretty high heat tolerance. The PP-Tip was given to me by a photographer friend (who will be taking pictures of my Thousand Sons once they are finally complete).

>The PP-Tip was given to me by a photographer friend
did you get yourself tested afterward?

So its either a Badger RK-1 Krome Airbrush 2-in-1 Ultra Fine Airbrush or the dragon .... how easy/user friendly is it to assemble though?
Lot of mold lines, parts dont fit, etc.?

Vallejo dead white; it goes on as a base over the primer, then a nuln oil wash, then a white overbrush.