3d printing a space hulk board

Ive only got these 2 sections printed so far, still in the design phase and working on getting my own 3d printer so i dont have to pay for each part.

looks decent, though you may want to hollow out the backs of those walls if you havnt already, they look a little thick.

Also, going forward, if you have the resources, I found that for my own Space Hulk board project it was more productive to print individual walls and then stick various floor bits to a wooden board with a grid notched in it to hold walls, that way you can play other games like DH using the same set of stuff.

What's that cost per section?

I'm skeptical that it's more cost effective than buying a resin set from someone like Ainsty

Clean your keyboard

Still a work in progress, so hollowing out backs and bottoms is still being worked on but the printer makes them mostly hollow on the insides anyway, plus the wall sections were printed laying down and I was worried about support.

cost per piece? High (30$ for just these) if you get them printed by someone else; very low (1-2$) each if you have your own printer. My main concern is how long it takes. My plan is to print one each of all the parts I need and then mold them and cast in resin.

Filament is really cheap. For me with Sainsmart PLA, it is about $0.10 a section. Best way to get cheap terrain IMO.

Would you like to share the stl files? I have acces to 3d printers at school.

OP should totally make it out of wood rather than plastic, USE YOUR HANDS, CARVE LIKE A MAN

Once you finalize your design, you should mold it off instead of trying to print the whole thing. Dental plaster probably works out to even cheaper, and molding's faster.

I'm actually a pretty good woodworker but right now I want to learn 3d. I made a space hulk board out of wood long ago. before I learned to mold. As for Dental Plaster - I've worked with that too, but resin holds up better to hard use, dropping, and doesn't chip as much.

I'm hoping to finish my set, test it all and then sell files to people, and eventually cast sets and sell those too.

Cool if you like it? To be honest, it sounds very stupid to me.

So you spent $30 on that section and it has a low level of detail and a very ugly grainy texture. That's consumer grade 3-D printing alright.

I say just experiment with scratch-built terrain and you could build your Space Hulk set for almost nothing, and have all kinds of cool shit that would wind up looking way better.

Cardboard, balsa wood, thin pieces of wood, Styrofoam, foam board, plastic scraps, etcetra. Go to a craft store. Pic related is an example, and it's easy as hell to make. People have been building terrain for decades without having to waste money and time on 3-D printing it.

CARVE WITH YOUR DICK! FUCK THAT WOOD SHAPELY

I've done wood and Styrofoam before now I want to play with 3d. Yes, spent 30$ on those sections but that is because I had someone else print them for me. Once i have my own printer I will be able to print sections for very low cost and there are ways of smoothing the grain texture and I am working on adding more detail. 3d printing is still in its infancy It will get better. But, this is more about me having fun with something new than anything else.

Not everyone is a shekel-clutching jew.

Is there a library of these yet? My business partner owns a 3D printer and I'm sure I can get him to let me print off a billion things if I buy the nylon

From a design standpoint, I'd say that, unless you're printing a diorama, ya dun goofed. If you ARE printing a diorama, cheap, plastic U-channel is already a thing, so you're evidently wasting project resources sweating this awful boondoggle instead of moving forward with pre-made "corridor sections" for 50 cents/ft on Amazon.

Protip: The bulkheads of the Nostromo weren't dimensioned to accomodate 30ft wide hands to move xenos and space truckers around, and the Space Hulk designers didn't want 6in-wide corrridor tiles with 3D walls. Wat do?

All the minis were on 25mm rounds, so 1in squares were printed on 2in stock with
>IMPLIED WALLS
and modular, free-floating hatches.

Recommendation: If you want a modern TT gaming version, design using 2in squares on 3in stock to accomodate today's larger base sizes and incorporate "standup" clips in the outside edges to support OPTIONAL card bulkheads.

Clean your keyboard wtf

>What's that cost per section?

Couple cents of plastic, couple cents of electricity, probably an hour or two of machine time, maybe some of your time if the machine is temperamental.

>I'm skeptical that it's more cost effective than buying a resin set from someone like Ainsty

It'd be much more cost effective (obviously that's true only as long as you're doing it yourself on your own machine), but it won't look as nice.

I'll clean my keyboard when I feel like it, dammit!

If by "cheap, plastic U-channel" you mean that rain gutter stuff - I've tried that too.

I'm using 3d printing right now because of the degree of precision it gives me, as well as its ability to make part after part that is identical.

My squares are 1.8 inches square so as to accomodate the 40mm base size (I'm american so I'm using inches - the only country to do so now) but the figures I use I will probably rebase on slightly smaller bases. The corridors are wide enough and the walls short enough that moving the models is not difficult.

And, this is a hobby; its fun. Its SUPPOSED to be something you enjoy and right now I'm having a lot of fun playing with CAD and creating thes parts.

And, I LOVE Space Hulk. It's my favorite game in 40k and I've wanted to build a kick-ass 3d board for over 20 years and this is how I want it. It's not like I don't own the actaull game with the cardboard sections already - I have 5 fricken copies of the actual game.

I've seen the Ainsty ones, I think once these are cleaned up and painted they'll look just as good.

I admit I have a long way to go. i"ve already decided to make the floors and walls thinner. I had always planned on making the parts more detailed (again, work in progress) but I think if I work on smoothing out these bits and painting them they will look a lot better right away. I'll post more pics later in another thread.