WIP Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

showing off my snazzy leather coats

It'll be 3d, that's just the exterior of one side. You can see the cardboard internals above it

Gave em an oldschool grassy field base as a temporary trial, not sure on it. Gives a nice contrast, but looks a little cheerful for a horde of horrid hungry aliens.

>drilling the barrel
>not removing the moldlines
why?

Can we talk gap filling?

I'm using green stuff right now for everything, and it works well for monster kits and whatnot.

I'm having trouble with large vehicle gaps. I can't for the life of me "sculpt" a convincingly flat surface, and it gets really difficult for me on the larger gaps. Is there anything out there that foams up, or self levels, or something?

Semi related; don't get a storm eagle. That kit is horrible to build.

Even verdant agri-worlds and garden worlds get eaten by aliens

You forgot the part about the theme being flying machines.

Quick FAQ:
Does Forgeworld count? - No
Does Flying creatures count? - No

GS might not be the best for larger gaps, since it's hard to sand well, it's always a bit rubbery even after curing. Try some harder putty that you can file or sand smooth.

This is true; I did consider this.

You think some of the harder epoxy would do better? Like gray or brown stuff.

Does anybody have the colour theory picture? The one with what colors match,and with glottkin

Yes, FW does that with Contemptors, my bad.

I haven't tried a lot of different ones. I use Magic Sculpt for larger projects, which is very good, but it sells in rather large containers and is relatively expensive.

>You think some of the harder epoxy would do better? Like gray or brown stuff.

It sure would be easier to sand. I needed to fill in under a chipped tile in our foyer before I laid down a transition strip for some laminate flooring I was installing (/diy/ instead of Veeky Forums), and that stuff is like stone! I don't think you could get a whole lot of fine detail out of it, but you could definitely sand it smooth.

Unfortunately, I threw the package away after I used the last of it on a different project (again, /diy/ rather than Veeky Forums), and I can't for the life of me remember the brand, but I got it at Home Depot.

Price is a little steep, but ...

what does /wip/ thinks of my first (almost)freehand that's not simple letters, numbers or runes?

>White prime
>sand on base

I will bet my first born child that's a recast.

That's absolutely snazzy!

Is that a stock plastic banner you painted that on, or did you sculpt/convert it?

Pretty good, well done.

That user is probably right.

Not worth it mang. I got 7 metal veterans with Pedro Kantor in metal as well for that price.

>Is that a stock plastic banner
that's old empire greatswords banner bearer so it's full metal.
thanks. nice trips tho

Which do you guys prefer?

Left isn't finished, there would be a bit more of a glow in the center along with highlights

Both cool.

Want to see the left one finished.

Hate scammers trying to mark up recasts. Hell, when I was looking to pick up some epic models, I was fine with some bulk recast tanks. It was obvious what they were and they were cheap. But trying to sell a recast titan for the price of a real once? Give me a break.

Left one looks gooey, like a tyranid probably should. On the other hand, right one looks like its skull is shaped in that weird way, like a form fitting shell for an ovesized brain. Befitting of a Tyranid.

Still, I like the left one as a concept more. It'll be reminiscent of sectoids.

Some user from Veeky Forums recast some proper epic Epic models and sell them, it's actually impressive, last I saw it was basically scaled down standards models, not the tiny blobs of metal of the old days.

You're going to burn out by the second day. There is a reason you guys have a huge back log, and it isn't that you are good at sitting at a desk painting for 12 hours a day.

Yeah. Many Epic 40,000 sculpts are great, but some of the older Epic models are based on rogue trader era stuff and is indistinct to say the least. Its actually the plastics that are the worst.

I imagine you think you are the smartest person you know, always solving imaginary mysteries in your head. The worlds greatest imaginary detective!

how did he recast something that never existed?

Well, okay, technically it wouldn't be recasting, but you kow what I meant.

It's actually a good question, would that be considered recasting, in a potential legal dispute ?

>points out common recast traits
>weird autistic comment an hour later

this place is fucking strange sometimes

Do you think many companies would be happy at someone shrinking an item within their IP and mass producing it?

On the other hand, you can't copyright a look, only logos and names.

Finally finished this dude.

The only people calling everyone an autist are autists.

What does time of response have to do with anything? That's some fucked up self absorbed shit as if anyone can only reply to you within a certain time frame.
Is it you just don't understand? Just because you say something doesn't mean it's true. Just because you imagine some *story* in your head doesn't make it true.
You have an idea that it is recasted based on some imagined knowledge that you have. You have an idea. You have no proof. But you likely go about your life like that thinking you are highly intelligent an always correct. You have a highly inflated self worth and likely come off as a know it all and based on your reply, likely come off as a swollen twat to your "friends" and your mom just can't wait for you to finally move out.

I don't suppose anyone willing to show off their Tau Fire Warriors/Crisis suits and some Skitarii?

Been looking into getting into the hobby and currently I'm struggling between either the Skitarii or the Tau Start Collecting deal GW got going.

Skitarii looks interesting with lots of small bits and bobs and a fuckton of detail that draws your eye but their unit variation is fairly low.

The Tau one in comparison have the whole coherence/unified army design going for it as well as a lot of unit variation but I'm finding it hard to try and figure out how to make all the flat paneling interesting to look at.

I'm stumped in what to go for.

Yo chill user. It just started as a light joke.
Plus he called you autist like everyone is called faggot here, I could see his affection through the screen.

As someone who knows nothing about recasts how come that white primer is a trait?

The sanded base I understand as the guy did a mold with one but why the primer?

White primer blurs the contour, enables to hide potential miscasts, thus making it harder to see if it's legit.

I have a can of skull white spray that I've had for over a year but never used, and it's jammed (just wheezes paint over your hand)

Is it salvageable in any way or is it dead?

Ah alright, cheers man.

Ironically... your reply is the most autistic thing I've seen on Veeky Forums today

wew fella you need to calm the fuck down.

White primed ancient models with already sanded bases are a huge indicators of a recast.

Stop being such a fucking sperg

As a sperg I have to distance us spergs from that guy and point out he is a huge bleeding vagina

Please do not lump his kind in with us; even we have standards.

~a bleeding vagina

So Veeky Forums, need some help here.
I got myself a Malifaux box and I'll have to paint some dogs soon.
Point is, I really want them to have the same fur as a Shiba Inu, even though I'm fairly sure they're pitbulls or something.
What paints would I need?
Should I start from a desert or a red primer?

Hi /wip/, i have been reading a lot of guides and learned a lot, but there are a couple of question in my mind which i didn't really find an answer for.
First off is simply how do i make my paints more even? Is there something to it or should i just practice?
How do you wash stuff? As in do you usually just throw it on the whole area and let it sink or do you apply it directly in the interested area? I usually work with bright colours and washes seem to cover a bit too much. Is watering down a colour a good way to make a shade or not? I heard you can ,but also that it will lack the shades' properties and i haven't had much luck with it(i used sink water).
Last little question is :is duncan just a meme? Why do you love him specifically?
Thank you

Watering down a colour can make a good glaze, I don't really like using non-shades as shades.
That's my personal thing though.
Get some lahmian medium if you're using Citadel paints, and thin the shades with it.
That should make them less heavy.

And as a starter myself, I wouldn't say Duncan is a meme.
He's pretty good at explaining how to get shit done and his tutorials can really help newcomers like us get some decent results on minis.

In the far future of the 41st millenium grass only grows in tiny clumps.

Guys?
I'm sure you have it

Pretty good, not going to do his eyes?

Rub the nozzle with isopropyl alcohol perhaps.
Or even pull the whole bit off and soak it.

You could start from a white and do it with washes. Shibe are pretty light coloured.

Also,any good youtubers for beginners guides ?
His tutorials are definitely useful,but people seem to meme him over other people

Not really a WIP, but I've finished this just now.

It was a faster job than what I'm used to, and it is not that great for my taste (the blue would require another highlight, and it is missing emblems), but after all it is just for playing.

It comes from the Battletech box set.

>In the far future of the 41st millenium grass only grows in tiny clumps.

I'll thank you to stay off my golf course, user.

Nah, a bit too fiddly. I'm working on a heavy flamer conversion using a flamer from the Mechanicus robot, Kastellax or what's its face. Will post results.

That's a snazzy-looking Dervish you've got there, user. I really like the blue highlights and the glass effect on the cockpit.

>First off is simply how do i make my paints more even? Is there something to it or should i just practice?

Practice is obviously a good idea.
If you're thinning with water a lot and finding that the paints are no longer going on smoothly, try using medium instead/as well.

>How do you wash stuff? As in do you usually just throw it on the whole area and let it sink or do you apply it directly in the interested area? I usually work with bright colours and washes seem to cover a bit too much. Is watering down a colour a good way to make a shade or not? I heard you can ,but also that it will lack the shades' properties and i haven't had much luck with it(i used sink water).

For heavily textured areas, slop all over.
For areas with distinct recesses and flat surfaces, apply to the recesses carefully.
You can also go back over the raised areas after applying a wash to bring them back to the previous colour.
Using water to dilute paint to the point where it's like a shade is usually too much. Grab some dedicated washes and inks, and experiment with diluting them with medium and water- you should be able to tell when you've diluted too far.

>Last little question is :is duncan just a meme? Why do you love him specifically?
Duncan is part meme, part legend.
I like to have his videos on while painting, or when I want to paint but can't, and among the much-repeated stuff you do learn some things.
Knowing what results someone gets when they follow X process is a good resource even if you don't intend to follow that process.

It's also really useful to point noobs at videos where they can see thinned paint, and how the brush looks, and how the paint behaves as it's being painted on.

and yet I just sold a couple grand worth of old metal models, lots of which were primed white with sanded bases, simply because that is the state they were in for a couple decades.
But if someone here had seen it they would have been screaming recasts and others would be lapping it up like gospel.

Reduced to a more sensible size and applied the white balancer.

try reducing the quality when you save too. I bet you could get away with 60-70% and not notice a difference in the image, yet yield a much smaller file size. You could probably scale the image down in size by up to 50% as well. While you are at it, you could crop a bunch of the dead space above the model; I like to box mine into a 5:4 or 4:5 crop.

Well there you go ;)

Working on my first predator and the turret looks criminally small. Thinking of bulking it up with some pzIV style spaced armor.
Anyone seen anything similar done before?

Blood Angels 2nd edition as fuck.

Are those cobras in the background conversions?

bolterandchainsword.com/topic/268556-night-lords-tenebrous-winter-1st-rapier-done-041416/?p=3841435

By "blending kislev flesh back into the head" does he mean just glazing it over the washed agrax head?

Thanks for the tips. I should have taken a bigger pic, with less zoom, and then reducing its size. That usually works much better.

I still need to learn how to handle my phone's camera, it's 13MP but does not seem to handle small objects.

Thank you very much for the answers.(i also noticed in GW's guides they load the colour on the palette and then add water,i usually make it in the opposite order to avoid wasting the paint in the water,is there any particular reason?[i know this question is pretty stupid,but i am learning i guess])

When making my own glazes (with glaze medium) do I use the brightest colour as a base? Forf example, Caliban Green ->Warpstone Green -> Moot Green and then Moot Green as glaze?

What scale are these?

>pzIV
Good god, thats ONE secy as fuck tank

Don't get too close. About the same distance you spray paint (~12", maybe a bit less). Obviously getting a tripod for your phone will help, but otherwise, try to rest it on/in something and use a 2 second timer on your phone so you don't move it when you press the button. If you do have to hold it, as with a gun or bow & arrow, breathe out slowly while you take that shot.
Also, it may help to tape a sheet of parchment paper over your light source(s) in order to defuse the light and avoid harsh reflections on your models. The parchment paper can take the heat.
And while talking about light sources, I might as well mention that ideally, you want a bulb in the 5000-6000k range, CRI of 80 or more, and then the lumens matter on the area you are lighting, but 800-1000 should do you.

So, you put water on the palette and then add paint to it?

Whatever works for you I guess- I end up going for a little more paint or a little more water throughout the process, but I do tend to go for paint first.

If you use paints in dropper bottles, like Vallejo's, you don't need to get the paint out of the pot using a brush at all, so no, the order doesn't really matter.

I need to find a better lamp

>and yet I just sold a couple grand worth of old metal models, lots of which were primed white with sanded bases, simply because that is the state they were in for a couple decades.

Sure you did.

Yeah,that or i Just take the paint with a wet brush if it is not much,it just hurts me to waste that paint. God bless vallejo's bottles,i love them.

Nah I believe him on that, he said that several times before going full autist.

However for the other user, the 3 very rare, very old RT marines being sold together primed white look very suspicious it's not a whole batch, it's not just one of them that is white, it's bloody all of them.

One has to stay wary in these cases.

>Are those cobras in the background conversions?

Wouldn't you know it? I have pictures! They're Tomb Kings Necropolis Knights. I'm pretty sure they are the standard kit.

... and here is the whole army, as seen from the front.

RIP tomb kings

PLEASE RESPOND

lol
my wallet doesn't care if you believe me

>he said that several times before going full autist.
the 2010s
The decade the bullied become the bullies

They look good, although could use a wash

Just finished my dominus, I'm pretty new so it's pretty crap, but I've been wanting an excuse to get people's opinions on it

Needs a good slathering of Devlan Mud imo.

i'll be blunt; the paints a bit thick and everything looks a bit flat, maybe consider applying washes to give it some depth/shading.
Also personally I don't like that shade of green on his back, it doesn't fit well with how vibrant everything else is

No he means painting it again, avoiding the recessed areas.

Why are you following this tutorial? There are much better ones.

Paint is too thick in some places and does not cover in other.

Try to "paint within the lines". There are a million places where the paint has bled over on places it shouldn't be, especially the gold.

You don't need to finish a miniature in one sitting, take your time.

The colours are really awful.

could i get a link please?