WIP Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

Our WIP thread is saging! Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
mega.co.nz/#F!OgpwzAKS!a5eVE6pOagTTOWEr5tEaEQ

>Painting Videos only
mega.co.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>In the face of death, I shall have no remorse.
youtube.com/watch?v=N_ZgyNoHtjw

>Previous thread:
>Thread before that one:

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=RuunLBVBdKc
youtube.com/watch?v=0PgIjAiz0rA
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

The basing saga continues!

The "Milestone" (grey) has been dry brushed on over the "Tawny Port" (crimson with a hint of brown).

Now on to tundra grass tufts and then snow!

I like your stuff. very nice blue hue.

I want to airbrush in my room. What's the best spray booth solution?

Thank you very much!
Here is a better side by side instead of between two threads.

Ok, so.
I want to ask you niggas, how do you paint/prime/assemble/etc your miniatures?
I got into this hobby last month with 10 marines and I assembled them fully, put them on their bases, then primed and now while painting I got a really big problem, some dudes have their arms in front of their chest so I can't paint their chests properly.
I've seen people just cut the bits off the sprues and then glue the bits on little sticks, put those sticks into styrofoam and then prime AND paint them on those sticks and they leave the assembly at the end. But I thought that gluing already primed and/or painted bits isn't a great idea since the glue might actually just break the paint from one part and just fall off.

...

Does anyone know of a good Human model to combine with Fire Warrior bits to make a Cadre Fireblade? Cant decide if i want him tech'd up, or more military officer dressed for morale. He's going with my human division of FW's made of Cadians if that helps

just don't paint where you need to glue, either mask it or sand it off after the primer dries

>I got into this hobby last month with 10 marines and I assembled them fully, put them on their bases, then primed and now while painting I got a really big problem, some dudes have their arms in front of their chest so I can't paint their chests properly.

OK, so, voyage of discovery here, user, you figured out the hard way that you should *not* assemble *everything* fully before painting.

It's a combination of personal preference and what the models are actually going to be doing/what they look like. I like to put the legs and sometimes the torso together on the base, and add some basing material (the kind you'll need to paint over, usually) before I prime. In the odd case where a Space Marine's arm *isn't* going to interfere with the painting of his plastron - you can see one or two in [pic related] - I'll even glue those on.

The rest of the stuff is painted and primed separately.

>I've seen people just cut the bits off the sprues and then glue the bits on little sticks, put those sticks into styrofoam and then prime AND paint them on those sticks and they leave the assembly at the end.

That's how I do heads. That Space Marines have a convenient "neck hole" in the gorget makes this a snap. It also allows you to choose a different head at the last minute or - if yer looney - magnetize them and swap them out between games!

>But I thought that gluing already primed and/or painted bits isn't a great idea since the glue might actually just break the paint from one part and just fall off.

This is more prone to happen if you use superglue instead of plastic cement. Of course, with metal models, plastic cement won't be doing anything for you, anyway. You can counter this by:

Pinning the parts together with a metal rod before gluing
Scraping away the paint down to the bare surface before applying the adhesive
Masking the surface(s) before painting to keep paint off them altogether

/wip/, how do I into basing?

Looking at GW's Urban basing videos, cutting up some sprue and using it as rubble looks like a good idea, but I've not a clue on anything else, as I don't have any texture paints either.

If I did order some, what should I use to spread it?

Fuck me, I use only super glue so I guess that's better I was able to snap an arm off a dude pretty easily now I think that one of my models falls down or something it would've snapped anyway. I guess I'll just have to snap all the arms off, paint them, sand the glue places up and then glue them back together. God damn it.
Painting each separate bit seems interesting to me tho it would be like picking the arms/legs/torso/any other bit, gluing them together and then just go play or something.

I'm about to paint my next cadian tank, what do you guys think about a base coat of army green before I do another base coat of the GW green I've been using just to make it less of a pain, or will the green be too different

Depends on what kind of base you want. The classic sand and faux-grass is pretty simple and can look pretty nice.

Want easy rocks? Take fine sand and/or gravel, paint em black and then dry-brush grey. Tree bark is great for bigger rocks, as is cork.

You looking for anything in particular?

I'm thinking about either a rocky desert or semi-urban feel.

I'm also conflicted on whether to make my tank blue with tan camouflage, or vice versa.

Here's a pic of a snapfit guardsman I did a couple weeks ago, haven't had time to start anything else yet.

Agrellan Earth with a wash is really easy for instant dry cracked earth and can be combined with grass and rocks as you desire

A technique I really like, but works best before painting is to spread liquid super glue on the base, then sprinkle a mixture of baking soda and sand.

To scale, sand ends up looking like very course gravel or small rocks and doesn't look good on its own, as where baking soda ends up looking like dirt or sand.

By tilting the base as you sprinkle the baking soda you can get a ripple effect

I'll take some pictures of this in a bit

This guyHe knows what's up. Haven't played around with the texture paints, but some of them look pretty sweet.

Making progress on mein Scorpions. Pics if I can get my damn camera to work.

Thanks mates!

Still unsure whether to make my Leman Russ Blue with Tan camo, or the reverse.

In my head, blue as the main color seems ideal, but tan might just turn out better. It would also match the color scheme more properly, looking at other IG colors.

I'd go with a base of tan and blue for armor panels on the turret or some such. Maybe some sort of blue splotching for camouflage?

The tricky part is make sure that the blue pops, but doesn't overwhelm the other colors. Looking at my own Russ (being a green with a light tan/green vertical striping) I see a couple of places where you could go solid blue. Those are: the connection between the turret barell portion and the rest of the barrel, the two armored plates just before the barrel and the edges that run around the sides of the tank. Paint the rest tan and those blue. See what you think.

some robots

...

...

NICE MOLD LINE ARE YOUR BOOT NERD

that looks like vomit or a pancake

I think I'll just paint it a solid tan, and then see what I can do from there.

Maybe do some braded camo using abbadon black and a line of pallid wych flesh on top of the zandri dust near it?

that one I tilted the base a little too much. maybe this one looks better?

>NICE MOLD LINE ARE YOUR BOOT NERD
back in my day we couldn't afford real boots so we made them out of mold lines and LIKED it that way

Simple as fuck bases.

Started to added the tundra tufts. This is kinda fun.

Got the rest of the guys caught up!

Making some longer, dry bits of grass.
Made from cheap as/and shit craft brushes.
I glued the very tips with krazy glue and pressed together.
Once dry I cut them off from the entire brush in one piece.
Then I simply cut a piece of appropriate size with a sharp blade, add a dab of glue, and apply.

Applying them to some hills at the same time.
Voila! I like it.

I want to prime some shit with Army Painter sprays, do I have to use the white/black undercoat primer and then follow up after it dries with a color primer? Or can I go straight to the color primer?

I'm a tard when it comes to keeping my brushes clean. How would you recommend getting clogged paint out of brushes?

This is all you need, it works like bloody magic.

Has a nice lemony smell too.

I was just about to ask you got so many of them, good idea

Oh lawd. Lemon scent. Thanks, user.

Finished my WYSIWYG Dark Artisan and Archon. I used the Haywire guns from both Parasite Engine kits to make my Scourges WYSIWYG, 4 Haywire, 1 Shardcarbine.

needs paint to be finished

Well, they're finished building. I still have a good bit more things to build before I get to painting them.

You cover the parts you're going to glue with sticky tack/masking tape or scrape it off with a knife.

I started with full assembly and found it annoying so now I just prime each part individually with the areas to be glued masked off.

It takes more time and effort but I prefer the convenience of painting. To be honest all you need to do is leave arms/weapons, helmet, and maybe backpack off.

My Genestealer Cult - The Brothers Aberrant.

They're about 80% done? In case anyone's Interested.

Flesh -
>Daemonette Hide Base
>Druchii violet + medium wash
>Warpfiend Grey layer
>Slaanesh Grey highlights

Boils - (now I haven't decided if I'm going to leave them red and sore, or turn them into pustules - but at the time of the picture)
>Carroburg Crimson + medium wash (over the flesh colour of Warpfiend grey)
>Blood for the blood god

Metals -
>Leadbelcher base
>multiple washes of Nuln oil
>One wash of Agrax
>final was of nuln
>Runefang silver highlight

Things left to do

>Tidy up the skin
>Skulls held in hands
>Chitin on Power Pick guy on far right in picture
>Tongue blending on 3 of them
>Highlight Red Rags
>Highlight black rags
>retouch up claws worn away during painting
>final coat of paint on base rim

Jesus Christ...

Fuck me, i don't know where to buy this in my country. I guess i'll have to order it from abroad or something

Elven stormcasts, because why not

I secretly love capes and would enjoy putting one on my Space Marine, but I already have the model done up. I want to find a model that I can easily trim the cape off of and attach to like, his backpack or something. Just how attached are the capes usually to Space Marine models?

Skub, not even once.

Operation Greif, German infiltrators for the Battle of the Bulge. Kitbashed the Warlord games Ami amd German plastic boxes to represent the lack pf Ami equipment they had. Turned a kubelwagen into a kubel-jeep. The M10ther is an untouched Warlord one. 5 Einheit Stielau men to do, need to be done before next Saturday but im on track.

SKUB FOR LIFE

usually it is part of the back, but sometimes it is part of the backpack

one of these days I will finish a project

My Dark Kin! I´m working on a Corpsethief Claw Formation to accompany my Dark Artisan myself (no camera unfortunately). Just wanted to ask; are these your first Engines of Pain? If they are, I just wanna advice you to BE CAREFUL. Those little arms, antennas and vials break easy, especially when drybrushing. Slightest pressure on those Chain-flails will break them, be extra careful with those. The little arms should be glued at two points of contact for stability. Trust me on this, I know. Hope this helps!

I'm painting up old Epic stuff. It's an easy motivator because all the Units were on cards at the time and I can break it down into detatchments and companies... So I've painted up a whole Evil-Sunz Clan, then all the Infantry for the Bad Moons (Though I ran out of steam with the suporting Gargant Big Mob and Braincrushas... too much Yellow :P) And I'm about done with the Blood Axes... with their experimental Great Gargant. It has a Snapper rather than a Belly-Gun, and a ton of Scorcher turrets. Not sure that it'll ever live long enough to use most of its weapons. Gargants are REALLY slow and the only long-range guns it carries are the auxilliary ones strapped to its ripper-fist. Should have enough infantry to make one or two more clans before I need to go shopping again... Just gotta decide which clan I want next, Death Skullz Maybe? Might go Stompa-heavy with them.

*RAMBLE, RAMBLE, RAMBLE*

Nice work user.

You might as well do some proper custodes bruv.

Good job on the scenery. It's lovely.

Cheers guys. The base board was easy to make but Im really happy how it came out.

These are beautiful user, keep it up!

>go to take pictures
>forget that my old POS camera will invariably be dead and I have no batteries left

Can anyone recommend a modest camera for model pictures and the occasional convention that WON'T eat through fresh AAs in literally fifteen minutes?

Mah mechanicus niggah
love me some wandering Toughness 7 robots.

a stronger scorched effect on the flamers would be nice though, and the bases are alittle boring.
still a nice job user.

zog me thats nice looking

Could you guys help me out with colours? I'm not quite at the point where I can pick out what paints would be good where. I'm painting leather using this guide: youtube.com/watch?v=RuunLBVBdKc
For those of you who don't want to watch the video he: basecoats in XV-88, washes in Agrax earthshade, drybrush XV-88. He then mixes XV-88 with Ushabti Bone and drybrushes, gradually increasing the amount of Ushabti bone with each time. After all that he brings the colours together with a light wash of seraphim sepia.
Would it be possible to do the same thing with purple? I was thinking using Naggaroth Night for the base and Druchii Violet for the wash but I have no idea for the brighter one that gets mixed in. I'm going for a sort of sleepy, nighttime deep purple. Pic related. Thanks in advance.

>Mechanicus
Rejoice! For Adeptus Titanicus is coming back, in 8mm scale.

Can't wait

CUTEstalan robots more like

They're pretty nice, but those bases could be better. I get the impression you weren't quite as generous with the Martian Ironearth as you could have been, but then maybe the camera is obscuring the detail.

The fraying paint on the guy front right looks nice, try and do more of that if you can.

>wasting money on those basing pastes
Just use wood putty.

Not sure if this is right thread to ask, but is this a good enough method for storing models in transit, /wip/?

youtube.com/watch?v=0PgIjAiz0rA

Boxes like that are small enough for me to fit into a little backpack discreetly, as if I walk around my town with a model case people will probably throw things at me.

FUCK SKUB FUCK YOU

Or wall filler, costs £1 for a 1kg tub here in Bong

Dude. Just do straight baking soda.

It makes it look like dirt to scale of the model.

we win

GENTLEMEN! THE KING! NA NA NA NA NA-NAAAA! NA NA NA NA NA-NAAAA! NA NA NA NAAAAA!

HEY! Not so loud

Wood putty gives a nice realistic texture to earth.

working on my black templars landing craft

building a foamboard chasis for the carcassonne bigbox that will fit all carcassonne expansions and mini expansions.

Finally finished my battlewagon

pt1

pt 2

pt 3

and last one

Looking good bud. Good job on the yellow!

I'd add some battle damage and weathering though.

those are a major bitch to paint fully assembled. enjoy

looking good man! Nice yellow

And reposting, colors are a little washed out though

Any good tutorials on airbrush techniques for painting vehicles?

>Corpsethievery Intensifies

Love me the Ham cults formations. So much beef from an army that isn't known to have much backbone. Whats your color scheme gonna be?

also because basing seems to be the order of the day....

That's actually crazy cool looking. Is it drybrushable and does it hold paint well? something like that, a light drybrush with light gray or white and some leaves would look really cool as a dingy autumn road.

This is primed, basecoat + drybrush.

neato. So do you just mix it together then smear it on the base and wait for it to dry?

It's not a mix, it comes in a tube. I just put some on the base then use some sculpting tool to distribute it evenly. Dries rock hard within an hour.

It's a lace, not a mold line

Amazing! i have wanted a genestealer cult for avout 12 years, i bought 2.5 sets of the overkill cult models, been struggling to find the Time to even assemble them, have you painted the others? I think you should make those bumps pus filled as they stand out a little too much, love the detail on the weapon handles too... Gonna go grab my clippers and assemble some more!

ah cool thanks

i like them user!


only 1 more to detail and touch up, i hope i can make some time later today

Another example, right after primer.

Anyone in here ever worked with Blender or know a better place on Veeky Forums to ask?

nice. I've just primed some tanks I built years ago
>shaken can for a couple of minutes
>20cm away
>outside
>spray
>primer leaves the can then sprays off in whatever direction it wants
>primer on hetzer too thick
>primer on tiger spackley. Dont think I've primed it properly
>grey primer on grey models

send help

Technically you need to head to /3/ for that kinda thing. Although I honestly can't reccomend the community there.

im afraid i will fuck up the weathering, it looks so crisp and clean now. any tips how to do batlle damage?

Warhammer TV or just youtube it to see it in progress.

If you're worried about weathering, why not hold off for now and try it on your Dredz or Kans, then come back when you are more confident

Haven't worked much with Blender itself, but have worked with alot of similar programs, and i do 3D modelling and texture work for a living, so i can give some limited help.
as said, /3/ isnt a great place to go.

I do CAD for a living, NX CAD to be precise, and was planning to just CAD some models to get better at the program, but just as a very basic question, how does a program like Blender track the real world size of the .stl file it will eventually generate? How do I make sure that I'm making a 1" grid with it?