WIP Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

And that turned out to be way huger. My apologies /wip/

/WIP/, this is officially my first mini that I have painted. I don't have a lightbox, so I hope natural sunlight will do. Any advice moving forward?

Fucking, damn it. Here's the pic.

You could start by posting the mini.
:^)

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As a first mini it's pretty good, especially on the face. I'd suggest cleaning up the highlights on the trousers a bit and doing something with the white armour; it looks a bit thick and bland, maybe do some sort of pattern on the gun/shoulder so you don't just have these big blank patches on the mini.

Looks breddy gud senpai, pretty crisp whites for your first mini. Don't see any mould lines either, which suggests you have lurked sufficiently. Overall, great job, keep it up!

>/WIP/, this is officially my first mini that I have painted.
>[actual picture]

It's a good start, user. Can't see any moldlines, the face is nice, and the metals look good. My only criticism would be the white... have you considered starting with a darker off-white colour and then only reaching purest white-of-whites with the final highlight? I'm not saying you have to go overboard, like GW did with the Blood Angels Sanguinary Priest (pic related), but it looks more realistic to scale.

Can't believe these 3 niggers took me 12 hours to make... Gonna switch the head on the right one, doesn't feel right

Caught a tip from Bobby Waldron (Gennesis models): cut the Vallejo primer with acrylic floor polish (@ 2:1 primer to polish). Speeds up the dry time a bit and toughens the primer.

I, uh, actually followed this picture for the white considering it gets posted two or three times a day.

Continuing from the last thread, adding some details to Skull Mountain.

Cut plastic barrels in half and them placed them into the "cave" area. I used pliers to hold the barrels while cutting so as to keep my fingers.
I added a lamp attached to the rock above these barrels, and another outside the cave entrance.
A street light was added in the corner with the door.
And finally I have added an emergency subterranean hatch at the basin of the cave under the skull eye sniper nest. This was pilfered from an old MK1 plastic rhino sprue.

Going to add a couple choice fortification walls on the upper level to provide some more cover and then on to sand.

youtube.com/watch?v=P-1-PQRbD28

Needs some TLC, but I'm pretty happy with them considering I've been delirious all week. Technically converted, but it's just a case of using the deathwing command squad heads (and chainfist) for higher detail and a slightly more pleasant shape.

Got to pick up some wildflowers and gobbo green to properly finish the bases off.

I'll definitely hit up the trousers again when I break out the brushes again. Thanks, man. I agree about the shoulders. I don't have any fluff thought up for my dudes yet, but I'll consider throwing a unit insignia or something onto the shoulder.

Lurking helped. Thanks, user. I just have a fucking mob of these left to paint and base.

What do you think about the scheme?

its more the arm that doesn't feel right.
And these Kharn groupies always look like this. Notice how on the Kharn model his shoulders, arms and hands are oversized (even by heroic standards)?
This is why.
Although the left guy doesn't look so bad. So you are partly correct, the helmet compounds the issue.

So finished my first Necron today and my new Ballistari(i think that what it is called)

you need some propa-highlights to make those colours visible.

Atm it looks like a blob of dark patches and gold trim.

Yeah i forgot to get my highlight colour

you mean your base colour plus increasing amounts of white?

Any of you have a good priced lamp-magnifying glass combo? My eyes are fucking horrible and I keep missing moldlines.

your stuff is always great. Makes me jealous.

I like the wolves, but the metalics on all the models look thick
looks great for a first model, especially the face. White seems a little chalky and thick though.
what look are you going for that necron? Rust? Doesn't look quite right to me.

i posted some stuff here. you like it?

First figure from Warhammer Quest finished. Haven't even primed the rest, gonna be a long project.

THIN

Why is he green and not blue?

Funny, I find their brush primer really fucking good, to the point where stripping it is hard.

The other one will be blue. Didn't want them both to be the same colour.

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Looks fucking dirty, and not in a good way.

Yes its rust

Is Airbrushed paint supposed to be coming off so easily from contact while being painted on top of, or did my friend forget to prime these when he did them for me?

You got valid critique and were like 'it's intentional'

The washes were applied poorly and the whites look bad.

Do you clean your models before priming them?

bronzed flesh looks weird without wash, and loads of it.

You want to start off by learning how to make wire frames and making proportional bodies without any details. For sculpting details there's a million youtube videos and books available.

Little things like the chainmail can be made with actual fine mesh chainmail

It looks weird and shit now. Worse.

Built my weirdboss for my new snakebites.

The power of da waaagh turned my photo sideways.

Anyone else that gets covered in paint when using the GW pots? Just opening and closing a pot will cover my hands in paint.

Okay WIP, please help me learn how to airbrush.

Tonight was the first time I held one of those things in my life, here's the results. Primer and base goat of gunmetal.

On some it was perfect and I love it.

Your Whites are terrible.
If they were people, they would be red necks, the worst kind of Whites.
Don't just slather a black wash on them. It's just not good.
I like the scheme though.

But on many more here's what happened.

More often in the priming phase, but also with the normal paint, I had these huge blobs.

Close up of what I mean.

Vallejo's guide did say to use 10-15 psi, and I noticed I was at 20.

Was I spraying too close? Too much? Are 5 Psi really so massive a difference?

Probably the latter. Though if they're clear coated, they still shouldn't be rubbing too badly.

I think they look fine as is, they have a coherent motion to them and I think the arm is a good fit

lookin really cool so far

5 PSI is the different between flat, perfect and bulging tires.
And we're talking 25, 30 and 35psi on a standard car.

Even just picking them up by the helmet for a brief second (crackle paint base was drying) had the blue starting to fade away to reveal grey plastic underneath.

I have a feeling he forgot to prime them and just wanted to get the blue on before he left for his trip. Guess it's time to strip them.

sup /wip/ has anyone used frogtape for masking before? I want to do some intricate masking on my upcoming project and the masking tape I'm using at the moment just won't cut it, it's good but only for doing straight lines really, I have trouble with it adhering to curved surfaces.

Started weathering my Australian fleet for DW- I'm hoping to have these guys done by the Nova Open, but I've been working on them for years. I want them to look really well used, so I'm going pretty heavy on the rust. The lower left ship is a junker I've been using to test painting ideas, and I've circled the rust in light blue- does it look overdone? It's washed out a little in the photo. Circled in purple is my attempt at heat discoloration on the smokestack- comments? The areas circled in red I can't decide if they need more metallics.

Painter's tape is OK, but Tamiya's is the best I've used - well worth the premium. Amazon if you can't get it locally.

You can use poster putty / blu tack for coverage on uneven surfaces, or try the paint-on masks.

>Are 5 Psi really so massive a difference?

Earth's standard atmosphere is around 14.7 psi. Pic related is what 14.7 psi can do.

Could be a few things:
1. Pressure (as mentioned). 20 psi isn't nesssesarily bad, but the rule of thumb is lower pressure and multiple passes.
2. Paint viscosity. I have a hunch this might be part of the problem; if your paint/pressure ratio's wrong, the atomized paint starts to dry mid air. Bad.
3. Distance. Off the cuff, you want to be 6-8" away from target; too close and you can spider, too far and you can orange peel. It totally depends on how light your touch is, though.

Speaking of which; what's your brush/compressor set up?

Point taken, thank you.

I'm using a CRPlus Evolution with the 0.4 nozzle, and a Sparmax TC-610h.

Paint was unthinned, but the vallejo metal color line is supposed to be ready as-is. Next time I'll try diluting it a little.

Look, there's no point you asking for critique because you can't actually take it, nothing is a big deal or your fault.
Unless you can be receptive, don't post your shit.

Post a model where you've actually cleaned the mold lines and where you can't see brushstrokes and pooling in the wash.
Consistently paint the eyes on your marines, you just left some undone.
Do any basing. Just sloppily painting the base brown looks shit, I fucking mourn for that Imperial Space Marine.

>uh it's weathering

No it's a shitty washjob, look up a decent weathering tutorial if you want them to be muddy.

If you can't get the desired look with dwarf flesh, try another paint.
Zandri Dust -> Ushabti Bone -> Screaming Skull instead, for your creamy whites.?
You'll still want to wash it brown, but again, wash it, don't drown it.

Helppppp! I'm trying to make this guy look like an invader from dark souls, but it's going to shit, any advice?

I painted him black, did the red bits by thinning my red paint further and further to try and blend it, but it came out like dogshit. I tired riekland fleshshade to shade it since I know it's redish, and that didnt help anything, so I tried highlighting with more red, and it still looks like a turd. Then to save that I tried nuln oil, and here we are. How can I get this to work? Essentially the red areas are supposed to be from a downward light as far as I can tell from reviewing source materials on invaders, but I cant get a solid clean blended red for whatever reason (probably me).

Forgive the pictures, turns out dark red on black is hard to take a picture of.

Bloodspatter y/n?

I think you've got the right idea, you just need to tune the execution a bit. Maybe a black undercoat and then a maroon base coat, then blend up to red-orange as a highlight.

Doing a black fade on top of red is going to be a lot easier than doing red on top of black.

Brush strokes in the direction of fade, rather than across it, can reduce the obvious lines at the boundaries if you let the strokes go into one another.

If it helps the red you have on the legs actually looks pretty cool.

I don't think you reached that point when rust ruins the model,just ask yourself if you like it like this, i do.

Bloodspatter y/n?

Answer is always no imo,unless it's for a very precise reason or you are trying to do a trashy model it always looks pretty boring and childish. But i would add some of that bronze somewhere and or make boots brown.

I'm trying to paint up a large area of exposed muscle at the moment, i'm just wondering does anyone have any tips/experience with it?

Make the stairs metallic if you want, but on board real ships everything gets paint; exposed metal and water don't mix at all. If you want to pick them out in something, red or gray.

Fucked up the quote

He's always carried games for me so I thought some on his saw would be appropriate.
Judge pic related, I think I'm ok with splatter

Fuck your sneaky ork

It's not about how it is done,it's just boring to me,but if it's just to honour the warboss,it's good i guess. Plus i think some red would look good on him.

It's more a matter of visual interest- I actually work on an old WWII warship, and it drives me a little crazy the way so many gamers feel the need to pick out every gun barrel in gunmetal. I just don't know if that's too much unbroken green in there.

>You should have primed black.

>Then any areas that were going to be red have done a thin layer of dark brown over black

>then build up from brown to red in those areas

Your paint looks really thick, get it to a consistency of milk and apply a layer. It's going to look blotchy and ugly. LET IT DRY 100%

Apply a second milk thin layer, it'll still look blotchy. LET IT DRY 100%

repeat until red.

- this red on my Ork here (which I like to think is nice and flat) was achieved in the same way (but I wanted a full red instead of red to black highlight)

How's this?
Any idea for base and helmet?

Anyone got experience sealing pastels/pigments? They don't look nice after sealing, slightly better when applying medium/varnish through an, but still not nearly as good as without sealing them.

Any tips?

If you intend to do splatter do not do as much as that on your Warboss, that looks like someone put some TNT in a cow next to the truck and let it explode rather than it hitting something.

If you HAVE to do splatter... then less is more.

>implying that blowing up a grox isn't something that the orks would find hilarious

Where can I find miniatures of children? I'm converting rattling snipers.

Warlord Games has a few hitler youth soldiers in their line

great escape games has a hitler youth anti tank squad too.

Maybe you can use these as a base for conversion

Nice blood! any specific tutorials you would recommend for that look?

>buy plastic brushes like pic related from dollar store
>buy blood for the blood god
>dip half of the brush with blood
>flick onto surface with finger
>?
>Profit!

Shit. You wouldn't think that something that simple would make something look that good. Well cheers thanks for the (you).

that is some of the coolest blood effects I've ever seen. That model is legitimately intimidating.

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First time painting, did I do good?

Try getting closer to your models

>space smurfs

I like your robin mug

I only did smurfs as practise, I'm painting these into Charcharodons

Last time, this gave me Storm Wardens. Working on them now but let's see what I get for a spare model

Great mug user!!!

closer please

Thanks, it's rather comfy