WIP General

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
mega.co.nz/#F!OgpwzAKS!a5eVE6pOagTTOWEr5tEaEQ

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

Old thread
>47432752

Other urls found in this thread:

imgur.com/a/85Yne
ebay.com/itm/111977179422?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

maybe you could use a lighter blue... blue and yellow gives a nice colour-contrast, if you use a dark blue, maybe the bright-dark contrast is too much...

or you could use blue and yellow on the howling griphons scheme: top left and bottom right one colour top right and bottom left of the miniature the other one...

dry fit some flame thrower mounts onto the lower back area of the skull fortress. with a bit more detail work they should be good to go. and control pads are already built into these walls so I don't need to add any this time.

Does anyone happen to have buypainted/wargaming zones painting guide for harlequin troupes? I cant find it on the mega

>maybe you could use a lighter blue... blue and yellow gives a nice colour-contrast, if you use a dark blue, maybe the bright-dark contrast is too much...

This is just the blue basecoat, which is Macragge Blue over black. I intend to lighten it and add some strong highlights. Let's see if that helps.

>or you could use blue and yellow on the howling griphons scheme: top left and bottom right one colour top right and bottom left of the miniature the other one...

Well, I was trying to stick to the Blue Falcon's colour scheme. This would also mean a red aquila, something I'm not convinced I'm going to like.

>Well, I was trying to stick to the Blue Falcon's colour scheme. This would also mean a red aquila, something I'm not convinced I'm going to like.

Here's the mock-up with the yellow greaves. This might look better than what I have now.

yes! go for this! :-)

>build skitarii vanguard
>cloaks have two gigantic seams in them

Bloody hell.

As long as you match up the right cloak pieces and apply some pressure, they should be fine. Liquid Green stuff will help here though.

Think the old Famicom colors would work for a Space Marine chapter?

I've also considered using it for Tau.

Bloody Fisters

Inspired by ROB.

The salamanders might find the black face racist though.

I think it could look pretty good. May a dark grey rather than the black.

>black face racist
Captain Orenthal of the Bloody Gloves?

>The salamanders might find the black face racist though.
No they wouldn't nor would anyone else.

Working on turning this into a Daemon Prince of Nurgle. Going to sink that head back into the body some and then add a hood and tattered cloak and/or flesh.

Question: Do I leave the spooky ghosts that connect the model to the base, or chop them off? Perhaps use plaguebearer and nurgling bits to make them seem like Nurgle daemons manifesting instead?

Some of the old metal plague bearers perhaps.

>ooga booga, where da heresy at?

How do I blend across a creature with scales? If I just basecoat then drybrush the scales it will be flat. Need gradual transition of color and lighting with the shape.

Do I do all my blending as the basecoat for the dark to medium tones in the recesses, then go back over and do individual highlights on scales?

I am not sure i understand your points, blending and smooth transitioning don't add volume to a model, the same colours blended or just layered will have the same volume. People usually wash drybrush and then edge highlight. This should give you a good tridimensional colour. (Well this is the easy way at least i think pros manually highlight instead of washing and drybrushing)

I think he means between colours across a giant lizard or dragon, as in blue head, red, tail, and purple in between
just paint each scale a progressively different colour, say blue to red, add blue slowly to red as you move along the scales, then when you're at 1:1 move away from the purple towards blue

Decided to make my own stormchimera with an old autocannon i never used

any tips on my bloodbowl ogre pose?

nothing is stuck yet, all just held into place with the sticky part of greenstuff(greystuff)

so i can change everything

What model are you painting? You can probably find an approximation of this by watching Duncan paint Archaon or Emma paint the Maw Krusha.

Leave them off, not very Nurgly. Also I wouldn't use the breastplate. Instead have the skulls emerge from his rotting body.

Does anyone have the guidefor building Beastmen Bestigors? I found some unused sprues in my attic, but no box or guides

es joke

Alpha Legion infiltrators detected

They're pretty simple models, having just body, head, horns, and a set of arms and weapons.

You should be able to mix and match everything to your liking so long as you keeps the arms and weapons together as they are in the sprue.

Ok thanks, I'm going to use these models to get into AoS. Now I have something to build my army around.

...

looking good user. have you ever reposed their legs?

this is screaming to have Kraang added to that belly hole. easy to GS too.
Man, now I want to make Kraang and his mechanical suit.

It seems the two operatives got the wrong target chapters.

i re positioned these 2. and since the arms fit pretty well i dont think i need to change them, but i am not sure yet. if i can make them look better by changing the arms il do it.

imgur.com/a/85Yne

Dunno,i don't really like the pose, he looks a bit frankensteinish, arms are dinamic,but legs are unnaturally rested. Also the left arm looks like it's stopping something,but it is too high to be stopping a normal human sized thing. It's not wrong,but maybe lowering it a bit? It might just be the photo or me though.

good luck if you do, they look like a lot of work to chop up

i was gonna change on of the feet to point sideways. i dont know if thats enough.

I don't know either to be honest,the first thing that comes to mind is tilting him forward or backwards as if he was trampling or chargung the blow,but just turning the feet might even work.

better give em red lenses too so they can really look like cyclops

Finished a pair of skink handlers, got to figure out four more somehow. Might just order another bastiladon's crew online.

Still early days on the chaplain.

Anyone have suggestions for materials to make ghillie-suit looking things?

>take model
>apply glue
>apply flock

Done.

lowered the arm

These are the first models i've painted in 10 years. They look like complete ass but it was fun

Which colour should I go for my complete army?

Is that supposed to be silver?

I'd go with the green one I guess.

The left chaos-chevy armour of doom with a nice eggshell white trim/accent.

That looks awesome, user! Though, my autism is telling me to tell you to clean up the red/white line near the fromt of it.

Show some more pics of it, I like it!

I like the green model more, but the blue is speaking to me.

Exactly, when do you see such a colour on marines?

I think this blue and metal could work well for a tzeentchian warband.

I was thinking a chaos undivided army, can I do the green without people thinking i'm nurgle?

I asked this in another thread:

Can i ally chaos with a Farsight enclaves detachment?

I haven't fully read all the new rules yet.

Greeen is very nurgly, but depends on presentation.

Dont ask me sbout rules.
I feel one should not be able to ally those outside of fun games.

Well, I picked up the hull from a Leman Russ Demolisher a few days ago. Poor thing was so caked in paint I couldn't see where the side hatches were. She stripped down nice enough, though. She's a complete slut for Simple Green.

I plan to use some bits I have on hand to kitbash her into a Thunderer Siege Tank. If what I've seen out of the Vindicator is any indication a Thunderer is a nice niche filler vehicle. That and it's basically a 40k StuG and I've been livin' the StuG life ever since Company of Heroes 1.

My plan for the main gun is the Demolisher Cannon off a Baneblade kit (pic related). has anyone tried a conversion/kitbash similar to this?

Progress on the weapon mount points.
Now back to painting!

I'm not very experienced when it comes to this kind of thing. Does this look legit to you guys?

ebay.com/itm/111977179422?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I'm fairly certain this is a recast. But if it's a decent quality recast, it doesn't really matter. I don't know how to tell, though.

Also, if anyone with a Wraithseer could confirm or deny that all of the parts for the kit are present, I'd really appreciate it.

Hey, hey! Join the team, user! I kitbashed most of my chimeras with autocannons. They really kick ass; I honestly haven't used a multilaser since I started playing 40k.

Hey friends.

My friend airbrushed some models for me but forgot to prime them, so I'm stripping them now.

I've noticed there are blue stains on the plastic now. I can spray primer over those just fine, right?

It's a recast. Three reasons:

1. you're buying a FW model at SIGNIFICANTLY under market price.
2. You're buying a FW model on ebay, and I've never seen a NoS FW model on ebay EVER.
3. I'm pretty sure I bought a Cyclops from that guy and it was a recast. Pic related.

Don't bother trying to tell if the kit's complete re: the image. You won't get what's in the photograph. Note that the seller's based in China. They literally do not give a fuck about Ebay's regulations as long as people keep buying their models. China will never in a million years enforce Western economic law when it could cost their citizens money, so cheap Chino knockoffs are everywhere.

Not that you'd save a lot on quality by buying from actual forge world. I've seen genuine FW resin casts owned by my buddies at the FLGS...they're embarassingly bad.

That reminds me I need to pick up a pair of cyclops.

Going to have some fun converting the operators.

It is totally recast, from the locations being China and china, China, to the sketchy "we only use backwater IM system for communication instead of ebay's mail system."

However, they do mention WYSIWYG in their description for their photos, which clearly have overspill on what's normally nonspill injection molding.

They seem to be the most accommodating bootleggers on ebay I've seen in a long time.

Alright, I figured as much, but I was willing to buy a recast if it wasn't a notable dropoff in quality. But if you're saying I'm just going to get fucked over, I'll not bother.

I only really use the one; that's all you need to stick 'em in a Vendetta and drop it on someone's head.

I've never been able to find any official ruling on whether or not the bomb allows a cover save, though. Closest I could find was the ITC FAQ, which also allows a ton of other bullshit. Either way it's a non-scattering Basilisk shell, which is tons of fun, and it's super fluffy AND effective if you're running a 'mechanized' list.

Well, if you want a Wraithseer, and you don't want to be a good goyim and give your sheckels to Forge World, you could just...convert one.

Get a standard Wraithlord, give it a cannon thing and a spear/glaive/polearm thing, personalize it, et cetera. Not too difficult?

That looks really bad unless it's some kind of futuristic ghillie suit that looks exactly like the ground you're walking on.

They should sell camo netting and ghillie cloth you can put on your miniatures. It's made for military scale models. Throwing your miniatures in a tub of flock looks stupid.

update on my Farseer. Tried some wet blending the green on the robes.

All Hong Kong, China, and Russian Federation FW on eBay are recasts. Now that you know, the next time you see that iconic bright red background you will realize how stupid your question was.

Isn't that just spraypainted cheesecloth?

from the back

I wasn't saying to vote against it. I don't think it's of so low quality to where it isn't worth it. If you get bad miscasts, contact them.

But that's what these real life suits look like.

Maybe just one. I just want to test it out in zone mortalis. Seems like a cute bit of mind games.

I've only pulled it off once so far. It eats a heavy support slot, but it'll MULCH anything that's not TEQ and give a good pounding to most vehicles, too.

As far as Vendetta Payloads go, it's actually the cheapest option by points, and does what it does pretty reliably.

Bitz bitz bitz!
I removed the lower level HKM and will cap the pillar with a smoke stack, search light, dirge caster, heavy quad flamer, or a simple antenna. Or maybe a trophy rack. Whatever fits best in the end, but it will need to have a very small profile.
Some choice bitz from my collection that will help me forge the narrative on this piece. If you have any recommendations of bitz placement, please share!

I'd just coat these guys in glue over the rags and then dip them into some flock. Maybe add some small pieces of lichen in different colours before or after flocking.

So a few days ago some user posted a picture of a WIP Space Marine. It was equipped with a sheathed sword, and I didn't recognize where the bit had come from. It had what looked like a Chaos Star point at the tip if the sheathe, facing towards the handle. It kinda looked like Armillus Dynat's power sword (pic). Does anyone recognize what sword I'm talking about?

I've asked a few times with no response, I hope someone will finally help me.

I would like to magnetize the hatch for a Leman Russ so I'm not forced to choose whether or not to dedicate one of my tanks to having commander. Anyone have any advice on how to go about magnetizing the hatch and commander?

Just going to use it to supplement my stormtrooper army alongside the sentinels I already have.

The real question is what to do for the mandatory troop unit. Camo vets? The opportunity to convert some catachans out of the command/heavy weapon set is a little enticing.

Might be easier to just find the bits online and do two top hatches for your russ, one with commander, one without.

Maybe if you have some cool flock like that. Regular flock looks weird, you'll look like your ghillie suit was made from a golf course.

NIGHT FIGHT!

Life: Fuck you, you get a manual co-ordination disorder
Me: Fuck you i'm going to try and paint anyway

Ditto. It's suffering, and they look down at me when I mention I drybrush

I still need to touch up the skin/head and some bits of the armor, but I'm really proud of the cloak so far.

Flock comes in various forms. I never said "that one specific type of flock that's shit for the job."

Yeah
I cheat whenever possible. The day that Citadel put out pre-watered washes was actually really good for me, because I can never do precise measurements manually. They're a blessing

When the word "flock" brings up a certain image and has become a byword for 99% of the userbase, you need to be more specific if you mention "that other type of flock that's not the one you're probably thinking of." It doesn't matter how "technically correct" you are if everyone misunderstands you.

Just like if you tried to claim "40k gaming" and "40k hobbying" are the same thing because the game is part of the overall hobby.

That looks like fun lmfao

Camo vet team with sniper rifles is fluffy as a forward recon team, and 3 BS4 sniper rifle shots will do some damage over the course of a game.

Park 'em in ruins, stick your Lord Commissar HQ on them (if you don't want a Tank Commander) and pot shot all day erry day. They'll laugh away with 3+ saves and 2+ if they g2g (you're fishing for 6's with those sniper rifles anyway). Give the rest of them shotguns for extra urban warfare fluffiness.

You're like the 5th and 6th persons I've seen on these threads with a manual coordination disorder of some kind. What's the medical name for yours?

I don't ask out of morbid curiosity. I ask because if it's the kind that just causes wrist jitters you can escape it by tying your hands together. This causes them to shake in unison, which keeps the brush (relatively) steady.

Finger jitters are a bit harder. You have to weigh them down, somehow.

Hmm, something to think about. I've got a few projects to finish up before I take the plunge.

Hey just wondering if anyone else seems to have a problem with citadel paints like ushabti bone, zandri dust, etc. For me, no matter how thin I have my paint, thinned with medium or water tried both, it become chalky even with thin coats.. I think I fucked over a captain that id hate to give the simple green bath to. Any ideas?

I usually use paints that bright as drybrush colors; if I'm painting a straight-up WHITE surface I just use like six or seven ultra-thin layers of white.

>That looks like fun lmfao
It IS! We did it for a laugh, but ended up really enjoying it.

Dyspraxia. It was meant to fuck off after I stopped being a kid, but the hand/eye problems stuck around
The easiest way for me to put it is that my brain thinks my hands are slightly to the side of where they are, while my eyes send the right information when I look at them. I end up over-correcting by accident, it's an absolute pain -- fine detail stuff is basically impossible

Planning a Wraith army, here's my color pallet.

Planning on using the lilac as the head color, darker grey for the body, purple for tabards and such, red-brown as the accent color and blue-grey for the guns.

Does anyone think this will look good? Can a kind user do a quick mockup for me?

For me, it's a tremor that gets progressively worse as I attempt to do finer motor control. A similar consequence is that extreme muscle strain (i.e. lifting weights) causes the muscles in use to shake violently (and uncontrollably).

Problem is I'm doing a cloth on a marine captain that would look proper shit drybrushed..

>All these kids with shaky hands complaining
Try being an old man with arthritis and bad eyes.

maybe.

>3 colour
3 colour is a pretty good rule for your big bits. and it smells like you're doing a 4.5 colour scheme depending on what you count as "accents"

it could look awesome.

i don't even really know what a wraith looks like - especially in regards to details. but i suspect you're at risk of something hideous.
>those colours
are not exactly a lock.

>Problem is I'm doing a cloth on a marine captain that would look proper shit drybrushed..

I used this method today. It calls for two of the paints you hate. Have you considered mixing them with some other kind of agent besides water? Flow improver? Lahmian Medium?

Accents being the soulstones and the tabard that some wraiths wear. The majority of the model would be lilac, charcoal grey, gunmetal grey.

Here's a Wraithguard for reference, so you can kind of get an idea of what I'm describing. Like I said, I'd like if someone could help me out with a mockup so I could see what it looks like altogether.