WIP Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

I hate the look of space termie heads. What is a good alternative helmet on termies? I was thinking beak heads, but not sure.

What's a good way to highlight black? Preferably to make it stand out a bit?
I was considering white, is that a bad idea?

Don't ask why, but I need to put some space marines on Ork Bikes. Is there a way to convert regular marines into a bike-sitting position so I won't have to buy both the ork biker and space marine biker boxes in order to achieve the same result?

Nearing completion on this guy. First time painting a model this big. All I have left is the armor plates and the base.

White would be a bad idea.

Try a darker grey and work your way up to a lighter grey if want the highlights to be stronger.

Modelsandminis.com
the owner's a nice bloke that i'm 90% sure visits Veeky Forums, though he's mostly active through his facebook, tossing out sales and shit.
modelsandminis.com/
the book with many faces /modelsandminis/?fref=ts

What's a good way to mix glue and snow flock, just stir the flock into the glue and then apply it? Should I add something else? Does elmer's glue work or do I have to get something specific?

What's good for applying the snow if I want to avoid using a paintbrush? Toothpicks?

>Is there a way to convert regular marines into a bike-sitting position
Take a left and right bent leg from the assault marine kits(this will require some cutting, hope you have a small saw). Dry fit them in the bike, might have to play with the leg position or cut the feet to the right angle, then put them legs and crotch area together with pins and glue, maybe GS if there's gaps that need to be filled. After you have the lower body fitting right you should probably make a mold for it so you don't have to repeat the process.

>Don't ask why
You're forcing my hand user. I need to know.

Alright /wip/, here's a challenge for you all!

Paint a spare model that you have, or even a cheap one you just feel like buying, example being the $10 snapfits, and paint them with a theme in mind.

Metal (Not metallic!) Tyranids, Wooden Space Marines, Skeleton Necrons, things like that.

Junk Marines.
I think the chaos bikes come without the armor already attached on the sprue. I think those would be easier to convert.

Hey /wip/ bros. Im starting a kill team project soon, a Sentinel, 5 Tallarn Guardsmen, and some Scions.

I need help coming up with an urban camo scheme. Ive poked around a bit using google, but havent found anything useful. The Scions' armor in particular seems a bit tricky. Does anyone have any advice?

Would I be able to get some feedback with this shading and highlighting work? It's supposed to be a ministorum priest, so I basecoated the cloak with Mephiston Red then used a Carroburg Crimson wash, after that I tried to highlight the more prominent bits again with Mephiston Red but it looks a lot more like paint streaks than it does light hitting it.

Have any of you taken things you've learned from painting minis and applied them to other art forms?

Has it helped at all?

And here they are in all their unpainted glory.
I am completely out of glue now.
Now I sleep.

thin your paints

looks cool, but I broke my neck trying to look at it

bad advice alert.

...thicken your paints?

Just don't give advice?

I have learned to see the painting pattern of other art forms,but i don't actually do any art.

Highlighting on the robe looks pretty good to me, wuold just need another layer. If you want it more realistic you could consider which parts would be illuminated and which not and give a bonus layer to the illuminated parts. (This is the easy way of making natural lighting,you can check for guides for the real deal)

Alright, cheers. I might skim through some guides and decide what to do.

>here's how to paint bald people
great, now how the fuck do I do the important part: not their face, the top and back of their heads? I've never been able to figure out how to make that look good, and it's worse now that I'm going a year without washes.

...

Painting washes, not personal hygiene.

Got some reinforcements for my warzone armies that arrived today, going to get a start on them later tonight after work.

Here, I think what user is trying to say is this, your paints are a little thick and it hides some of the details, pick some of this Thinner medium up, you Can get it from most hobby stores or Order it online.

Mix a bit of the base hair colour into your flesh highlight and stipple it onto the head following where the hair line would be and work it back down the back of the head. That's how I do bald people and stubble in general, doing the wash method never at well with me.

Just use a little, get a little drop of this stuff in your paint pallet and then get a brush full or two of paint and mix it together, when you dip your brush into the paint get very little paint on your brush, Multiple small coats of paint will go farther than one big glopy coat.

Do I use it just like I would water to thin them? I usually run my paints way too thin and watery so it seems this time was the opposite. (Also not the guy that said bad advice alert, that was just a random user)

...

Thanks for answering my question pre-emptively

Nah, I mean total baldies, Delaque-style, not shaved. Polished to a sheen.

Try CMON ultimate guide,it's in the op,i liked the lighting part

Try applying the nonmetallicsmetals technique.

Ahhh.
This may be a good idea, if that's too much maybe a 2 stage highlight and a lick of gloss varnish?

Looking for NON-AIRBRUSH tutorials on painting power weapons.

>NON-AIRBRUSH tutorials

Lord Duncan is your savior!

youtu.be/u7e4_-oRMtI

Worked on some Warhammer related minis for the first time since Age of Sigmar literally ruined the world.

I like the toxic sludge effects on the left plaguebearer more than the one on the right, though I feel it feels somewhat cheap looking.

>2 stage highlight
Yeah, this is what I'm having trouble with. I just can't seem to get how to apply the highlight to the bald head, however many pictures and videos of bald heads and bald miniatures and bald artwork I look at.

Gloss varnish is a solid plan though.

Yeah man.
Marines are the easiest thing to convert. All the parts really cleanly segregate.
Just cut the shins and knee and feet as one bit. Cut the upper legs from from the crotch.
You now have 5 pieces. Crotch, 2x upper legs and 2x shin/knee/foot combo.

You drill into the segments and use some soft wire to join them. Fill the gaps with green stuff. Very easy given the marine webbing looks like ridged tubing.

If the knees are very bent you can even glue the knee to the upper leg without need for gap filling.

Some very thin sharp side cutters are very heldful for cutting the parts.

Enjoy your new mans and feel proud you did it yourself.

The fine motor control had helped in many areas. I do leatherwork as a source of income and it followed fairly naturally.
I feel like I'm a better illustrator too even though I've rarely drawn anything since I was a child.

I'm glad I could be of some assistance, then. Good luck, user.

i like the left one a lot, maybe tone the green down a bit if you don't like it.
please do tell about the quality of the models, i am very interested

LRDG Tauroxes anyone?

Watch the painting budda space marine tute on youtube.

The part where he does the helmet will be applicable. Watch how he does the domed surface.

unfortunately the v8 doesn't fit :(

The casts are beautiful, absolutely beautiful. Clean and crisp details, the fur on the Vargs and the Blitzers cloaks is so fineyou see all the individual hairs. little flash or mold lines to be cleaned up, in fact I didn't find any mold lines on my blitzers. I'll take pictures of the assembled dudes later tonight when I get home for you to see, I'm not the greatest at describing things.

that's great, i really like their models, a part from the pose of some. I am happy thwey are good quality, thank you.

finished some support for my Fallschirmjaeger army for BA /CoC

The one on the left seems pretty happy. Must be all the cheese whiz he found.

No worries man, and yeah, the limited poses can be a bit dull, but it's nothing that some hot water bending and conversion work can't fix. But then there's the argument that that shouldn't be the case and they should all be multipart multipose, blah blah, woof woof.

and something bigger

acquire an Airbrush for that Camo user, Hand brushing Camo is often ill advised

they look a bit too blue, is it the photo?
I can't see if the barrel is drilled, at least on a big model with a pak you can't not drill.
some helms look a bit unevenly painted, in particulat the one shooting the mg and the one reloading the pak.
I like them

Why have I never thought of this, the Taurox's treads are hideous and those make it look amazing

Anyways here's my first finished cadian sergeant

well prices are pretty good, if i need to make some fixes to keep them like that i am good with it

needs highlights for the green. Otherwise, great.

Those are from Zinge, Models and Minis and Victoria Minis make good ones too

is there a single highlight on the model? did you thin the paint?

do your camo by drybrushing in lines instead of brushing

camo applied by hand was deliberate. My other stuff is airbrushed (pic related) and I wanted something more "applied in the field without an airbrush" kind of look.

you're absolutely right, I've forgotten the barrel.
the blue depends on what reference you look at. since there was no absolute uniform colour the shade differs.
what exactly do you mean by unevenly painted? I've tried to give the helmets some fading colour effect.

Checking some out now. Really good looking casts.
The boob holes in the space crusade models are pretty hilarious.

I wanna pick up some of that brush soap y'all post about. Google says Michael's carries it, can anyone confirm?

>I've tried to give the helmets some fading colour effect
yes that's it, it looked like you were missing a coat,if you like it's ok i guess, but my first impression was it was unfinished.
>the blue depends on what reference you look at. since there was no absolute uniform colour the shade differs.
i am not sure why, but the photo looks like it has a blue filter on it,everything, eventhe grass tends to blue

looks pretty decent

You're right about the green base. Painting the rim of the base black makes it quite a bit nicer.

could be the light. the helmets look darker in RL too.

while we're at it. some other German armour of mine

some great stuff in there, thank you

Where do you all get your brushes from? I've used the citadel ones as a starter but I have no idea if they're reasonably priced for the quality.

I get mine from the store

either from fine arts stores or from LGSs, for example the army painter brushes are not the best deal out there, but they are far better priced then Gw's for onlt 3 euros. I have never tried GW brushes but people say they are immensely overpriced.

Go to an art supply or hobby store. Games Workshop brushes are, much like every other product they sell, premium pricing for a mediocre product.

Is there anything specifically to look for when you're looking for quality in a brush?

pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

i have made the pastebin for the op, for now it's just manufacturers that are compatible with warhammer,but i think it would be nice to expand on it and make it a list of mini providers in general.
the account name is "wiptg" password "Veeky Forums". feel free to add anything you have

point and if you are at a higher level how hard it is is another factor. For now just follow tips and look for a good point.Whenever you don't know about a certain brush you can just google it and you will find comments.

Thanks for the help, I'll go check out my local hobby store. What brushes do I realistically need for heroic scale infantry? I've really only bought a base and a layer brush from GW before.

If we add this to the OP, I think we should break it up similar to how WHFB gen does it (pastebin.com/CvGaNyrk). Make it clear what certain bits are good for and at what scale.

Also definitely with a larger emphasis on bits and not necessarily focusing on GW franchises so it's easier for all folks to use. Also mentioned scale as well where possible.

Paint is thinned, and thanks, I'll highlight it a bit later

I wouldn't say I applied it to other forms of art, I'm no artist, but the color knowledge that comes with comes with added benefits:
-knowing which colour of clothes go with which
-seeing how an artist make this or that pop out, rather than just thinking "well shit he just does it"
-in general knowing which color goes well with which. Helped a bit when we were buying furnitures for the house

i am not understanding why the focus on bits, but i agree on the rest

Amazon has it, and cheap.
Got an ounce (28 grams) for like 5 pounds.

mix a splash of water to the glue before adding flock. Makes it spread and sculpt easier.

If the paint is nicely thinned did you spill some of the glue down his front?

See how on his upper breast plate and around the imperial eagle it looks puffed? That's either tha paint being thick around those details or the glue has run down his front and collected there.

Due to conversion being much bigger in /WIP/ than just straight up proxy. Helping with the more hobby heavy stuff (extra bits for converting) fits more with the purpose of /WIP/ than straight up replacement.

Resources for conversions. That's just as important as painting guides.

It was actually wash that I didn't shake properly, it's why the model looks glossy. I put a thin layer of shaken wash over him this morning and that fixed it mostly.

How would you recommend stripping a plastic model?

ok then, but a list of mini providers, not just proxies, but minis in general would be as useful in my mind.

Simple Green, LA's awesome.

If you're careful I have a friend who uses boiling water, but you can melt it pretty easily.

feel free to change it as you want
we also need a link to some stripping guides, we get a question per thread

Ok chuck up a new pic and we'll have a look.
Here's the guide.

100% dettol if it's avalable in your country. Best stuff I've ever used.