WIP Work In Progress General

Just finished my first vehicle. Yeah I know the lighting sucks, can't take a better pic right now. It's a start.

Lighting's alright, it's the angle that is a bit off.
Also, thin your paints and remember wash / highlight.

Thinned my paint, applied 7 layers of yellow and STILL got the undercoat showing and brush streaks. Any tips for a noobie?

Also HURR SPEHSS ELFES LIKE DA PENUS!!1!

THIN

get an airbrush.

srsly. if you wanna paint yellow, get a fucking airbrush. no other way around.

If you're painting that yellow on top of black overcoat, that's your problem. Use brown to bring the colour closer to yellow first. That way you don't have to put on so many layers.

Fuck. If I'd known this I wouldn't have gone Iyanden. Buggery shite and dagnabbit. Ah well, thanks for the info.

Thanks, I'll give this a try on the next one.

You can airbrush the yellow like suggested, but how ive been doing it to my imperial fists for great results is to base it a light bone color, including the shades and highlights and glaze it with lamenters yellow a few times.

Not the original guy, but how does an airbrush differ in terms of applying the paint and the technique from a regular rattle can? I've got a few bigger vehicles I really don't want to hand paint since there's no spray colour for it and I hear you can do move advanced stuff with an airbrush.

You can control how much paint is sprayed on an area and that means you can control the shade. It also requires a lot less paint to cover up a model. Paint blends better, too.

What colour base coats do you prefer for general use?

For years I have been using green since my guardsmen are green and so it was easier to just start out with a colour that was gonna cover 90 of the model, the majority of the second colour being a darker green. Likewise I've been basecoating SM in whatever colour made up the majority of their armour and blue and grey for the other IG regiment I have been slowly starting.

After so long I have completely lost touch of what is a good colour for a general base coat, black or white? Remember what a bitch it seemed to be to properly coat green over black before just base coating green has turned me off black, but white base coat seems like something most people have stepped away from.

What are the pros and cons of either and what would you recommend? It's for a handful of infinity models, so lots of small bits and few large areas.

>What are the pros and cons of either and what would you recommend?
It depends on your painting style and the colors you are using.

If you are a fan of bold blacklining and stark contrasts, use layering primarily or use dark colors go with black.
If you prefer using washes, tints, glazes have very bright colors or just prefer shading over highlighting in general go with white.

Gray, all day erry day.

I'm a lazy fuck, so when I prime I just do gray with either Mechanicus or Dawnstone for basecoats. After that, it's just working on individual areas for what I want.

Infinity is gonna be harder than guard and marines if you want to do them full justice. If you want a lighter shade, which i've seen as the norm for infinity, definitely play it safe and go gray if you're not sure about your skill.

/WIP/ I need a new project to work on. I do 40K and 30K armies in batches, so whatever I do is going to be worth about a months time. Are wracks fun to paint?

Aight, thanks, I'll keep this in mind.

I haven't currently decided on a paint scheme yet, so it's still up in the air. I might go for the grey idea since it jives with my tendency to be an indecisive cunt.

reposting my first mini, completed it last night.

yeah the same tips as last time that you've clearly ignored in favour of screaming.
so, why would anyone waste any more time?

bullshit. you airbrush kiddies need to ditch that crutch for a year. yellow is easy. you're just to scared to try and learn.

if only someone had told you to base brown when painting yellow in the last thread. with a big wall of repetitive text. if only.

Not bad. Do you own a wash (something like nuln oil or agrex earthshade)? It would do a lot for the metal bits.

I do own Agrax Earthshade, and I did put a layer of it on the guy. Only put one because I was worried about making it look like "Oh god please save me, wash, please?"

>Supposed to let shade dry for 20 minutes
whoops

Over load of metalics can really look odd if you're not able to add depth to it.

If you have more paints try doing one with less metals.

I was thinking of trying to do ceramic on the next guys body. Something kind of bone colored on the faces of the armor, reddish brown edge highlights. Probably paint the body of the gun black too.

Im going to spend so much fucking money on this hobby.

Hi guys,i am pretty new and i didn't understand why people always highlight with the proper colour. I made a model which i based sotek green and highlighted genestealer purple in some areas and based xereus purple and highlighted temple guard blue. I really liked the result(can't make a photo,shit light because of rain). Is there a particular reason why i should avoid this? Or do people just tend to go for a more sensible and realistic scheme?(it's for some tzeentch marines so being silly is very ok,that's why i tried)

>Im going to spend so much fucking money on this hobby.
yeah well miniature gaming is no hobby for cheap ones.

By highlight you mean making an area pop out? Like the pic here is a highlighted blue.

OR do you mean having the secondary color of the model be an off color? Like if it was a space marine the trim on his shoulder or knee pads would be a different color. Because it sounds like you mean this.

If it is the prior, it's because it objectively looks like shit to highlight in an off color.

If the former, you are using the word "highlighting" wrong and this technique is incredibly common.

To expand. I'm assuming you're talking about making the whole one color and splashing a second or third color. Like the purple and pink on the Genestealer.

No i mean proper highlighting,i don't know, i like it a lot, i guess i will post mini as soon as the sun comes back so that you can meme me.

Don't take this the wrong way, but that sounds fucking awful.

He means line highlighting using a completely different colour; i.e, a blue model with red edge highlights only.

I didn't expect people to like it anyway

So question - I want a nice, bright hot-rod red color for my PHR, once these get released. In the interest of taking the easy way out, is there any spray paint you folks know about that could get me a nice, glossy red for the carapace sections of pic related? My usual go-to line of spray paints is lacking, in this regard.

Does a good CSM sculpt exist to create a somewhat unique Chaos Lord? I'm looking to create a small warband and want to convert a distinct leader that doesn't look like Kranon or every other Terminator Lord. The only good HQ sculpts seem to be the aspiring champion and pic related.

What do you guys paint on the little banner things on Space Marines. I try to write gothic words but they always come out poorly. Anyone have any advice for it?

What the fuck man

0.05 liner pigment marker.

I made mine out of a combination of a vanilla marine, chaos marine, khorne zerk, fantasy chaos knight helmet, and a dark elf lance with nid claw for his scythe.

Marines are so modular you can kitbash all sorts of stuff really easily. Conversions and sculpting is really basic too because all their limbs are destinct parts.

Terminators are very similar you dhould be able to whip something up with the basic dudes.

Just mash around bits from the terminator kits too.

That terminator kit is solid for kit bashing something good.

>Does a good CSM sculpt exist
>somewhat unique Chaos Lord
Sounds like you'll have to convert something if you want to be truly unique anyway.
There used to be a metal model a while back that was sold with a weapon arm that didn't even make it into the codex.
I think that was a pretty fresh take on a termi character.
Sometimes he pops up on ebay still. Wasn't around too long so he's somewhat special.

You could of course also use any Space Marine character as conversion fodder. Space Wolves have this one guy that is bigger than most other space marines. If you switch his head for something chaotic you are already off to a good start imo.
I remember a WD article with a Slaanesh lord armed with two clubs made from pearls, that was converted from Logan Grimnar body and had a minotaur head.

Krom?

He has way too much wolf shit all over him.

The driver's looking at porn instead of focusing on his job. Gonna get yelled at by my farseer when she finds out.

Nah, Krom doesn't wear termi armor.
I meant this guy.
If you picture him with different weapons and another paintjob, he could almost pass as chaos lord as is.

I forgot the ridiculous pricetag on that thing though.
I guess you could kitbash something similar with the regular plastic SW termi kit though.

This couatl is going to be F A B U L O U S

well, what kind of lord are you looking for? Nurgle, khorne, Slaanesh, Tzeentch or undivided?

Thanks anons, I have a pretty huge loyalist bitbox, I might see what I can slap together.

It's going to be an undivided Lord which i'll go to town with using the BaC wordbearers transfers. I'm impartial to Terminator armour or power armour, but the Terminators, Terminator Lord and CSM squads look like a weird mix of bland and dated next to the DV chosen minis.

I'm currently going to try converting a bolter chosen, but i'm wondering how to make him look like a Lord instead of a fancy Chosen conversion.

>but the Terminators, Terminator Lord and CSM squads look like a weird mix of bland and dated next to the DV chosen minis.
Well, the DV minis, the chaos champion and the plastic raptor kit are going in slightly different directions stylistically.

However if you compare them to 2nd edition metal minis, you'll find that they fit together pretty well.
Maybe you can kitbash something with the parts from the plastic raptors and the DV guys.

I don't know if hmthis is a multipose mini, but right now, he's a mile away from correctly using those sights. . .

>look like a weird mix of bland and dated next to the DV chosen minis

Sounds to me like you should check out evil craft.

Looks like a Reaper Bones scifi dude.

> Raptors
By the dark gods you're right, now that I stop to look at them again there are some sick sweet bits to mix with Calth mkIV.

Thanks a bunch user!

does anyone have a guide on how to do camp like painting on smaller models?, model in question is a tau fire warrior.

Camo*, and I'm talking grey/dark blues urban camo.

glad to help
been goofing around in ps a little.
Raptor body with a headswap and different backpack.

Maybe this will give a few ideas.
I'd start either with white or the medium grey, apply the other one and then put the dark paint last.
Simply because dark paints tend to cover bright paints better than the other way around.
Notable exception here, if you just paint dots in white on top of black or something like that. That will look okay. But larger surfaces end up splotchy unless you go over them more than once.

Then to finish it up i'd wash over it. If the washes out of the box are too dark, just add some medium to thin them out.

You put your right foot in...

That it is. Rubbery little bastards deformed

loremaster wip
not satisfied at all but at least it's something
how do I paint a stars cloak?

yes

Currently working on my Knight and almost done.

However the gun is torn in my side, I want it to stand out, the rest of the knight is semi rusty so I want the gun to stand out just a tad.

I wanted a Burned overused-under maintained look, however every single miscoloured metal guide is for airbrushes by the looks of it such as:
youtube.com/watch?v=qgJIuJ8a_8k

Anyone got any good ideas or guides for painting large gun barrels without an airbrush?

>green
>red
>blue
>purple
Hmm.

Hey /wip/, newfag with a handful of questions.

What're the best brushes a person should pick up when just starting out?

Are you supposed to prime and then glue, glue and then prime, and if an arm is obstructing a torso or something, do you not attach it until the very end?

How fine a file do I need?

If I use acetone to strip a model, should I remove the base first, or resign myself to the fact that I'll need to buy a new one?

>If I use acetone to strip a model, should I remove the base first, or resign myself to the fact that I'll need to buy a new one?
acetone melts plastic.
So if your models are metal you are fine. If they are any other material you'll also have to buy a new model.
Wether or not to save the base is up to you anyway. Do you need it or do you have enough spares?

This is for Infinity, the models are metal.

And spares aren't expensive, I don't mind losing it, I just wanted to know what standard operating procedure is.

Well, as I said it's up to personal preference.
My personal check list goes something like
>how hard is it to remove the base?
>can I reuse the base?
>do I risk damaging the mini?
>how easy is it to replace?

Biggest consideration for me usually is damaging the mini, since over the years I've collected tons of spare bases, and most of the stuff I strip is usually nothing special or worth saving anyway.

And thanks again broski, but this is the same model. I didn't do a wash because I didn't have any brown. But if I can trouble you for some details, you say Base in brown; do you mean brown onto the raw plastic, or onto a primer? If latter, white or black? Also, which stage do I wash at, before details/highlights etc, or after? Thanks in advance, I'm trying this stuff on the next model.

Anyone?

What you might wish to do is lightly incline his head forward to make it look like he's listening, as well as slightly carving out the top of the right eye. If you look at Jonny, his funny look comes from that eye piece so ever slightly raised that make it look like he's raising his right eyebrow.

you could try doing it with several layers of a wash. tried it once with a jet exhaust.

Added a more sturdy support pipe T to better support the reservoir tank array on the back and readded the ladders as they were previously in the way.
Almost ready to base and paint!

Is that bit in front of the ladder and the oil drums the ass end of a Y-wing engine?

Added a mesh filter to the bottom of the out spout and took a pic with a Sorcerer for scale.

I don't think so, but I don't know where it is from, it was just in my bitz box.

I found that Infinity is actually way easier to paint than i anticipated. The gadgets, fabric folds and doo-dads kind of lend themselves to painting. I struggled to get cloths to look realistic due to how flat the "material" was but all the folds and wrinkles make it easier to pick up and high light the right details in the right place

My Skorne swordsman.
Im struggling with getting the cloth and the bone horns to look right.
Pointers?

Started working on my gargoyles. One down, 29 to go. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, not sure if i want to attempt to feather/outline the carapace or just leave it bone.

Thoughts?

You can do almost the same thing with glazes and washes. Takes a bit more skill and patience to get smooth transitions but the end result is the same.

Leave it bone.

Why didn't you fix that sword?

WIP tankbusta, test model painted in a few hours so far with one of his friends.

drill where the bolter was. make it look like there is somewhere for it to feed into.

I was overly eager to get started and didnt know the hot water trick

fix it now then faggot. Fucking dildo skorne.

Added some skulls and my sand mix to the bases.

I'm my experiance, rubber weapons some how seem to be more deadly.
I remember the dice gods really favouring Rubber Lances years ago, those knights kicked all kinds of ass with their wobbly weapons

Anyone ever bought 40k stuff off of ebay, specifically stores selling from china? I'm eyeing a brood of malanthropes and i've seen other forge world models for way cheaper than normal but I'm afraid their going to be shitty Chinese knock offs that don't look right or assemble correctly.

If they're from China, Russia, or Eastern Europe they're almost certainly recasts. The problem with that is if you just go to a recaster you can get them cheaper, and usually a better cast than ebay stuff.

Are the alu cans stuck in yet?

It might be worth hitting those with a primer that will specifically stick to them before you prime the whole thing.

Paint comes off alu really easily.

got any recommended recasters? i really want 3 malanthropes but don't want to drop 150+ paying forge world prices but i also dont want them to look like ass.

The 3 together can be removed fairly easily, but not so much the solo can.
I'll remove those 3 and hit them separate and see how it goes.

That's a pretty comfy painting workshop! :3 I like the sorted colour tins.