WIP / Painting General

More Jonny edition!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Ventilate, motherfucker
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

Other urls found in this thread:

mengelminiatures.com/2015/11/tutorial-heresy-era-imperial-fists.html
youtube.com/watch?v=XUBtItceuec
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

Also, repost to get things moving.

Dracothian Chariot. Should I put a banner in the back of the combat platform? The two guys are already pretty tightly packed on there, adding more stuff might be too much. On the other hand, most chariots in the game have some sort of banner there...

Thank you. Your efforts are appreciated.

Red is pain.

But at least it isn't yellow.

am I the only person that finds red, white and yellow not only easy, but fun?

Yellow>white>red>anything else.

>free day so decide to clean up and prime some models
>go to paint
>my two main colors are basically out and lumpy
>have to go out for dinner in three hours so it isn't worth me driving thirty minutes each way to get more
>super busy weekend

So now I am stuck here doing the metalics that I prefer to do last.
I won't use a model unless it at least has some of my major colors on it.

>Red is pain.

It's not so bad if you prime white. You can get a really bright Second Edition red if you prime white.

>But at least it isn't yellow.

Wisdom.

Life is hard

>>have to go out for dinner in three hours so it isn't worth me driving thirty minutes each way to get more

Yes it is. 1 hour round trip leaves 2 hours of painting and dicking around in the store before dinner.

I'm a procrastinator myself so I can see when people are just making empty excuses.

Just got my first three fliers for 40k and primed them all white and then .

They are going to have alternating colors and I don't care how bad it may look.

>2 hours of painting and dicking around in the store before dinner.
>Trying to paint at my FLGS during le Magic Night

Since school is out these bastards are there at open and on Friday they are there in droves. My store is much bigger than any of the GWs I have been to and most other game stores but last weekend I went on Saturday when they don't have a Magic Event and there were at least twenty of them playing.

>Knight almost done.
>The god damn battle cannon just does not want to look right
>Repainted it three times but still not good enough.

Making a Slaaneshi knight is pain.

I'm actually with you on red. I just needed two coats of mephiston red to get a strong color on my blood angels.

WIP don't judge to bad.

Alright WIP, I have decided on Imperial Fists as my 30k loyalist legion. I'm capable of painting yellow to a fairly reasonable level and not pulling out my hair in the process but it takes a long time with my process: Grey Primer>medium brrown basecoat>thin yellow layers upon layers upon layers

Is there any way to speed this process up? Does priming white make that big of difference compared to grey? Is priming brown an effective option? Should I add an intermediate step between a brown basecoat and yellow layers? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Oh God are you the user with the Purple and Yellow Ravenwing?

The most obvious faster way would be using lighter brown and grey. I think i once saw someone prime white>wash sepia>highlight yellow>edge yellow and it looked actually decent, but i can't guarantee. (Is airbrushing an option?)

Maybe avoid painting ultra realistic veins on its throbbing penis cannon....

The broad strokes of your painting plan seem alright, but I'd recommend putting a yellow brown as an intermediary between the brown basecoat and the yellow layers. You'd reduce the amount of layers necessary quite dramatically I think.

No I just happen to be painting the Ravenwing Fliers as Purple, Yellow and White because I want them to stand out against the Blackness of my Codex painted bikers.

On the matter, does anybody have some good bright reds,which don't have that orange tough of wild rider red,to advice?

Army painter do a nice yellow primer, that followed by a sepia wash gets you a decent yellow base to work off.

Unfortunately no. The closest I can do is coloured primer spray cans. How light of a brown do you recommend? Now I'm thinking: primer> medium brown > light brown> yellow

Prime it with Army Painter Bone colour then do the shadows with slighty thinned agrax eartshade / lamia medium then go all over the model with cassandra yellow and then edge highlight with dorn yellow

Yellow primer, paint ink/wash into all the convenient lines and crevices Space Marine armour has, then slap whatever yellow you're using onto the flat bits.

For Space Marines I would nearly always prime in the colour they're actually going to be.

First attempt at converting a Ravenwing bikebrarian. Im not thrilled with it. I went with the right caster arm over the sword to keep the librarius iconography on the shoulder, but that forward facing purity seal is bugging me. My green stuffing went a bit off as well.

Suggestions for improvement if i do a round two?

What paint on matte varnish do you guys use?

I see that no amount of rotation appears to keep this image from flipping. Sorry about your broken necks.

>On the matter, does anybody have some good bright reds,which don't have that orange tough of wild rider red,to advice?

Evil Sunz Scarlet is in between that darker Mephiston Red and Wild Rider Red (which really does look orange if you use it by itself). It's a layer paint, though, so the consistency is also different from Mephiston Red.

Any tips for painting Space Marine bikes? Bought a box today.

Im lacking the edge highlight right know because i didnt manage to get my hands onto it but you should end up with these

I thought evil sunz was red too,i saw a tutorial where someone used it and it really looked orange.

mengelminiatures.com/2015/11/tutorial-heresy-era-imperial-fists.html

I was planning to follow this when I do my Fists.

Army painter do a bright as shit pure red.

Okay so just now getting into this hobby here.

How do I decide what color primer to use? I only have black glossy primer.

I meant orange obviously.

Imo, spray priming the sprue then painting the model in component sections prior to assembling fully was really efficient for bikes

How are the mold lines on the pieces? Easy enough to remove while on the sprue?

I'd check but I'm on the subway right now and it's crowded.

Depends on what color your model is. Grey is a good all around primer. You should use flat primers not glossy.

Looks fine to me. That looks like the Dark Vengeance librarian by the looks of it so its already shitty monopose.

Mine was my first "conversion" but I didn't put enough care into it and this he doesn't have an arm on the handlebars.

Since then I have converted the Blood Raven and White Scar from Overkill into my other two Biker Librarians in the conclave.

Army Painter. Vallejo's is too smooth to the touch.

Thrones models themselves? They are grey.

The models themselves*

Sorry, I'm on my phone.

What colour primer you use can depend on what colour you are going to paint the model.
If it's going to be mostly white or yellow overall then black primer with be a total pain, for instance.

It depends on what color you want to paint the models. Darker colors should use black primer to save time but honestly anything can be painted on any black, grey, or white primer. Just depends on how much time you want to save.

Is there some way of deciding which one to use? Do I just use the color that is the closest to what they will be overall?

You can buy a colored primer from Army Painter if it's that difficult for you to decide.

Black primer for armies that will be black or dark [color] like Dark Angels in dark green.

Grey or white for armies that are yellow, red, white, or grey or will be a light army like 2nd edition bright blue Ultramarines or bright green Salamanders.

nice. but one critisism.
FLIP THE PICTURE UPRIGHT.

Different user, but I do have a question about those.

Which would you (not just you, but everyone) say is "lazier", using those, or airbrushing your basecoat on? My LGS is divided on this for ??? reasons.

Army Painter is lazier than airbrushing because with airbrushing you have to set up your airbrush area/booth and you also have to clean the airbrush and change colors eventually which is a pain in the ass.

Airbrushing in general is lazier than normal painting, but if it's just for priming or basecoating, shaking a rattle can for a minute then spraying is much lazier than getting your airbrush ready.

>primer from Army Painter
Not that user, but I've had nothing but trouble with these. Why should I go with Army Painter when I could use Krylon, save money, and have to use one extra layer of paint?

Thanks, I have some Vallejo stuff and I wasn't too happy with the test results.

I used to have some excellent stuff, but the label came off the glass bottle years ago and I cannot remember what the fuck it was called.

who cares. work smart for YOU. fuck what others do if it's not what you prefer after trying the options yourself and forming... I know it's a foreign concept here... your own opinion

Because Krylon doesn't have as many colors nor does it have matching paint bottles.

If you don't know how to use AP you're just a moron. Try watching their youtube tutorial or reading the directions on the can. It doesn't spray like other brands but it's also not difficult. It's also more resilient to accidentally drenching the models in paint or spraying in bad weather compared to other brands. I consider AP the retard sorter spray. If you fuck up with AP, you're a retard or you did something wrong.

Spray lightly from a very close distance.

Hence the
>??? reasons

People at my shop like to argue about the DUMBEST shit.

See, I actually want an airbrush so I can use it just for priming and basecoating (the parts of painting I hate doing).

Thank you, doea anybody have experience with army painters' paints? Also is their demonic yellow bright as well?

>See, I actually want an airbrush so I can use it just for priming and basecoating (the parts of painting I hate doing).

Go look up a youtube video on how to change colors or clean an airbrush.

You will probably change your mind about getting one just for basecoating. A more convenient solution would be to buy a single action or bottom-fed spray gun like the crappy one GW used to sell.

Ah, I didn't know those exist actually.

I'll have to check those out instead then.

Hi, first time using green stuff...how much it takes to dry? literally 4 days passed an it still behaves like soft rubber.

Hm. You can probably get them off fine, I recently used the ravenwing elite bikers box so that's not gonna be an accurate measurement. I don't remember having issues with my regular Biker box

Anyone else painting the Silver Tower stuff? Posting my progress from this evening since there aren't many images in the thread so far.

I'm guessing you didn't have equal parts. Is it pure green or does it have yellowish or blue tint?

>literally 4 days passed an it still behaves like soft rubber.
Then you didn't mix it properly.

After about an hour of working time it'll start to get stiffer and less sticky. Then it takes a good 10 to 12 hours at least to cure fully, but after 24 hours it should be as hard as it can be.

The blue part is the hardener, if you mix more blue you get GS that cures faster, but is a bit less sticky, if you use more yellow you get more working time and more sticky putty, that also doesn't dry as hard.

Heat can accelerate the curing.

Pretty good skin job user.

I have literally equal parts of yellow and blue, and the yellow is homogeneous. Maybe I used too much water to wet the surfaces and my hands?

>and the yellow is homogeneous
Fuck, meant the green.

And how hard should it be? I mean, is not sticky now, and even if I squish it it returns to its form, but is like I said, rubber

Cheers, still a fair bit of work to go but I'm usually pretty good with skin which is why I started with these guys.

I would just add a little touch of highlight, but that's just me loving extreme highlights. It's pretty realistic and nice already. Also did you prime them with gesso? Primer looks very matte.

what do u use to hold the minis on the corks ?

>And how hard should it be? I mean, is not sticky now, and even if I squish it it returns to its form, but is like I said, rubber
It will never cure to be rock hard, if that is what you are worried about.
It's always gonna be a bit soft. If it's not tacky and does hold it's shape it's probably cured. How hard it ends up depends on how much blue you mixed with the yellow.

If you'd prefer something that dries hard as a rock i'd recommend looking into milliput. It feels a lot more like clay (as opposed to chewing gum like GS), you can dilute it with water until you can use it as a wash and once it's dry you can cut, drill, sand or do whatever else you need to do with it.
I like to do bases with milliput and miniatures with GS for example.

looks like foot holes. nice.

I've only done one layer on the front left two so far, they'll be getting more of a highlight.

And it's Halford's grey primer, which is an auto primer if you're not from the UK. I've been using it since the 90s, it's still the best stuff unless you really need a different colour.

So I won't be able to use sandpaper on GS?

You can sand dried greenstuff.

thank you

Yeah you can.
Will generally work better if you planned ahead and used a little more blue in your mix though.

I'd recommend wet sanding with a really fine grit though. If you use something to rough you get kinda crumbly tearing stuff going on due to the rubbery nature of the material.

Sanding is totally fine with GS though.

There is another putty commonly called brown stuff that most sculptors prefer for hard edges and mechanical stuff since it dries harder and you can work with it in a similar fashion to what I described with the milliput.

For your general purpose sculpting on conversions and the like you're fine if you stick with GS though.

Yeah i didn't put any effort into this picture. I took it because a friend wanted to see my models. Only posted it here because it was what i had on hand.

youtube.com/watch?v=XUBtItceuec

Good to see St. Duncan isn't dead.

YES! YES! PRAISE DUNCAN!

i found a cool way to base this rackham nemesis clone. one of my gaming friends also has one so we challenged eachother to a paint off

definitely trying to crane my neck to get the best view of your blurry, run-of-the-mill, basecoated nonsense

just starting? Google: color theory and click the first link. read it. continue your work with a better understanding of the colours you're using and how they work together.
Grey is a good base for reds.
Brown is a good base for yellow.
Black for darker resulting models, white for brighter schemes, but remember that you can paint grey or brown over that black or white before continuing with the main colours over top.
Google zenith priming as well.

I don't think I've seen rackham in these threads before.

Cute idea. Please tell me you didn't glue the plastic before priming it.

you don't HAVE to engage the argument.
and you'd just be sharing my opinion. I imagine logic doesn't win these folks over anyway.

Yessssss. Keep us posted

Early shot of a salvage project.
Decided to practice my black highlights on it before I paint Overwatch.
Still mostly just blocking out colors though.

What's that recipe, Haven't painted the Acolytes yet for fear of painting (human) skin

You probably aren't trying to paint it over black in one coat

Newfag here. If I want to prime a model black (since most of the model will be dark,) but have some pale skin exposed, should I find a way to obstruct the exposed bits while priming and then somehow get white primer on that part? Or is going all black just fine?

just base those parts by hand after priming.
either go from brown or grey depending how pale you are going and paint the skin color on top of that.

that kind of masking only really makes sense when you are using an airbrush. With a spray can you don't have nearly enough control over what you are doing.

You should ideally leave the head unglued and paint it separately, priming it white or something.

Masking might be tough if there isn't a clean straight line to the head, but it's worth a shot. Personally I'd just prime black and not worry about it. Simply do an extra layer or two of brown, which goes on fairly easily over black, then your flesh paint will go on easily over brown.

No, I am not, because that is a poor way of doing it. Hence my alternative offerings.
And for the record, I have painted red over black perfectly fine in 2 or 3 coats max with Mephiston Red and Mechrite Red.
But, the smart way to do it would be to lay down a base of medium to light grey over that black and then paint the red over that.
Or, if doing yellow, do a base of a warm brown over the black first.
Work smart, not hard/bad.

Alright cool. The heads came connected, so I don't really have that option, but I'll know if I ever end up with that opportunity to do that.

I suppose the same logic for painting separately applies when there's a part that would obstruct the model otherwise.

no, you would do a thin coat of the BASE to the colour you want to build up to.
So, like Bugmans Glow or Ratskin Flesh as the base and thinly build up to the end colour you desire.
Sometimes I use a medium grey mixed with a purple as the base of my more grim skins. I might do a grey/brown/green mix for the base on undead or very unhealthy skin. But very thin washes in key areas before the final highlights also really help to add depth. Like, a thin purple/red/both under the eyes, etc.

Painting up stuff for my Guildball team while I wait for my resin bases.

i am planning on doing yellow stuff and read about this brown basecoating a lot,but i never understood:
why brown and not white?
would zandri dust work as a yellowish brown?
i would like my yellow to be as bright as possible so i am asking to understand better

>why brown and not white?
simple answer is that you get a more even result by using successively brighter colors.
If you paint white over black you will get some splotchy areas.
In the end it doesn't matter if you paint 4 passes of white and then do yellow, or work your way up through a dark and medium brown to a tan to your yellow.
I really depends more on your painting style and what you can do with your paints.
If you got a chalky white with bad coverage using brown is just easier.

Does it matter to the final result? Yeah it can affect how it looks. Does it mean one way is inherently better than the other? No.

>YES! YES! PRAISE DUNCAN!

May He watch over us all.

Muh worn bronze

brown means if you go too thin or miss spots it'll look like a shadow, whereas white will just look wrong