No WIP thread on Veeky Forums?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

*a 15kg bag of play sand

So then your comment made no sense to begin with. You essentially just insulted yourself. GOOD WORK!
The retards are in full force today!

Or, a 50lbs bag of interlocking stone jointing sand for $5 that has variety and you don't have to dry out a bag of cat piss sand.

>autismus
Aww man, you already out of insults this early? How you gonna win your internet arguments later in the thread?!

GW minis are known to be expensive but I got a box of 10 cadian shock troops for something that came out to like 28 dollars? Did I just happen to get a good deal on that one (or misread the qty) because I've been searching the Web for generic future soldier minis and they don't seem to be able to beat 2.80bper figure (minus buying used ones on ebay)

sorry did I trigger you?

Every thread this loser.

Wow.. so much buttblasted by a simple statement.
Someone skipped breakfast this morning.

You're just as bad. Just report & hide their posts instead of replying.

TROLLS BE TROLLIN'!

How come none of you shitlords ever post WIP in WIP? Can't you just go post somewhere else?
There are literally infinite place for you to circle jerk your own angst.
You can even create your own.
Yet, you come here EVERY DAY.
And now you are a hypocrite, good work.

>Just report & hide their posts instead of replying.

Oh really?

Heil Burgermaister meisterbuger!

Anyone?

Find a building site near you and ask the bricklayer if you can take a small bucket of their sand.

It's really good for basic ground texture, you can add slightly larger grit to taste.
I do 90% of my stuff with brickies sand as a starting point now.

>And now you are a hypocrite, good work.
And you reply withouth a wip comment. Ironic that you cant see your own fallacy.

Depends what your currency is but there are plenty of places that come close to $1 per man.

Usually fantasy has better ranges for cheap models but if you just want random sci-fi there's plenty out there.

>What do you want if for, mate?

you can smear agrellan on anything. I painted base with painted mini already attached. Some of it slipped on guy's boots, and made a really cool effect of dried, falling mud.

My sandbox. My pet lizard needs new sand. My miniatures. etc... I dont think they care that much

Also anyone got some tips for free handing straight lines on small objecst ie robes hands pauldrons?

I'm just building little buildings with this and PVC glue for my little girl, this stuff just works better than her sandbox sand

>taking bait balls-deep instead of letting him be and stoppin to reply

it's yer falut mate

>Got a small terrarium of hermit crabs recently. I saw this here and thought it couldn't hurt to ask.
Or
>It's great for scale models.

The client is paying for the sand so ultimate he wont care if you only want a bucket.
If you have too much spagetti to spill just go grab a ziplock bag at night if it's near your house.

Failing that hardware stores should have bricklayers sand for shit all dollarydoos.

Okay good work. You win at losing faggot.

>Also anyone got some tips for free handing straight lines on small objecst ie robes hands pauldrons?

It can get tricky, but if yer talkin' black lines, Sakura Micron pens are the end-all-be-all to my way of thinking!

What's with all the "store fronts" lately, CAPTCHA?

Can you get these in other colours too?

>Can you get these in other colours too?
Yes.

can anyone tell me how to strip plastic? without melting them?

I assume google is trying to tech an algorithm to regognise them. Same as the streetsigns.

If you mean how to make the line look like it's continuous on folded cloth. What I do is rule a line on some paper then fold it into roughly the shape of the robe etc. to see how it flows. Then replicate that line.

Otherwise if it's just a how do I paint straight question. You can use a fine greylead pencil to lightly mark points (with calipers if you're super anal) then join those points with a line. After that trace the line with your paint.

Are these actually safe to draw with, on paint? they don't dissolve the paint already there or anything?

can anyone tell me how to strip plastic? without making plague marines?

>What's with all the "store fronts" lately, CAPTCHA?

Yes, I refresh the store fronts one every time. That one just seems too sketchy to me. Especially since it's so persistent.

(lol just had to refresh twice to get something other than store front)

Dettol if you are in Aus, UK and possibly canada. Safe for almost everything for over a week of soaking. Wrecks green stuff though.

Simple green for most everywhere. Still wrecks green stuff I believe.

or acetone free nailpolish remover, that can melt though. You just add a bit to a brush and scrub.

>can anyone tell me how to strip plastic? without melting them?

I used Equate-brand (Walmart) non-acetone nail polish remover. It's cheap and effective. Use an old toothbrush to scrub it on and get the paint off. You shouldn't need to let it soak... and Emperor protect you if you accidentally buy the acetone stuff instead; it *will* melt your plastic.

If yer in da UK, I hear Dettol works well, too.

Damn, CAPTCHA... again with the store fronts?

No, but they don't absorb immediately like paper either so be careful, practice first, and be aware that it will have to dry for some time before you won't risk EASILY smudging it.

>push and pull
What about legs?

>autismus maximus

Well, I *was* thinking of naming this guy after the new Captain Centos model, since I figure I can use da special roolz for him, but now you got me going in a different direction...

to the guy who asked in the other thread: the pants are beige but I did heavy weathering with thinned skrag brown

Some user said that these bases look wrong because they are too rocky, what do you think? Should I change something?

add somre more moss on the rocks, and some more grass between the rocks

They look fine to me, not every battlefield needs to be a lawn or large uniform patch of gravel. Lovely painting by the way, I always like to see Biel-tan done really well. Are you going to be going with the classic Aspect Warrior colour schemes or something more tied into the Craftworld colours?

Also, mild progress on these guys, skin done, work on non-metallic areas progressing.

Hey /wip/, finally got some colours on this big guy. Just basecoats and washes done, going to go back and touch up some of the metallics, then it'll be time to layer up the skin and highlight everything. Comments appreciated as always.

He's big.

Beautiful work.

...

>Some user said that these bases look wrong because they are too rocky, what do you think?

I think that user was jealous of your stellar work, the same way people nitpick beautiful costumes in /cgl/ because their own work looks like garbage... but we gotta remember where we are, even if /WIP/ seems like a safehaven sometimes.

They look great to me!

masketta man?

I love the default color schemes for aspects, so I'll go with that.

I see, I think I'm going to try something. I'll post later.

I have a SGT with PF and bolter. The bolter casing will be red, and the 'body' silver. To tie the two weapons together, do I make the fingers of the PF silver or red? I chose a bronze casing for the Fist, but I could always strip it and make the case red I guess, and the fingers silver.

>case red I guess, and the fingers silver.
This is my favorite, but honestly I don't think you need to worry too much about making sure the weapons match. Do you have a picture of your scheme?

Sadly not a good one. I'll try to get a solid one in a bit, but here's the scheme I'm working off of.

It is Age of Roundtree.

>Age of Roundtree.

Perhaps I could ask you to elaborate?

Iv yet to even start glueing them but I have some ork boyz im gonna start on. for the bases i was thinking of just doing sand but im not sure...whats a cool base texture that isnt that hard to do?

As that user I don't particularly like them. If you like them fine. If you're having enough doubts to ask this question thought perhaps the one you should ask is yourself.

Against the problem is their too rocky. Your tank base was the right level. I think rule one when it comes to basing is don't over do it.

And as I said yesterday, the models look great otherwise.

New CEO for GW. Latest cool thing he's doing is bringing back proper monthly white dwarf magazines.

>New
He has been on charge since 2014. He's probably the culprit for the death of fantasy.

they look great man. you're just fixating on 1/7.5 billion people's opinion.

I don't see how the date is relevant. He is still new relative to the old. Pretty nit picky.

He only became CEO at the tail end of 2014, there's no way he put in action killing fantasy and creating AoS within his first six months.

no, things in business take a lot more time to do than a few months.

Step one, paint the base earthy (leave the black rim). Step two, glue sand/dirt. step three, glue grass/moss. Matte varnish, done. The paint covers any missed spots, the grass breaks the monotony and ties the bases together to the Orks.
> plus it's super easy and cheap.

t. GW shills
a year is enough time to cancel or make a product.

local store manager told me something about new deals in july

a lot of stuff is still overpriced but I like how its going right now, only time will tell if it is the right right way though

I went to buy some citadel paint pots and found some of them were labeled as "base" paint. Is there an actual difference in formulation between base and non-base paint or is it just saying the colors are suitable to use as a base coat?

>t. armchair buisnessman
why have the past few WIP threads been mostly full of shitposting

Get a jug from wal mart. Wash out an old milk gallon to keep the used stuff in so you can re-use it.

Pick up a cheep set of plastic food containers with lids and an old tooth brush while you are at wal mart.

I have left minis sitting in this stuff so long it all evoprated and it did not harm the minis at all.

If up put the lid on the containers after you cover the minis with this stuff it will last a long time.

You can also buy a 50lbs of the stuff from your local hardware store for $5 and have enough for like 4 tables, 5 armies, and all the terrain you could want, and still have 25lbs of it left over.
Or, you could beg construction workers for a bit of outdoor cat piss laced sand lol.

I think base paints are a little heavier in pigment. Layer paints are a little thinner, and meant to show some of the base's color through.

I lost a paint test mini to that shit... never again will i use any form of nail polish remover for any sort of plastic or resin.

Metal is fine though.

cuz I swear, it's one shit head with a bad attitude and no life replying to everything in all these threads.

I mean, I said arguing about the term "new" is pretty irrelevant.. and he calls me a GW shill.
He is just on auto troll pilot.

You sound very annoying.

Why not use pic related?

You are spending a good deal of money on your minis... why the fuck would you cheep out on basing materials?

A bottle of this shit is like $10 to $15 and out of ONE bottle you have enough to base like 5 large armies.

and then he replies like so.
>What? You think I am a piece of shit because I am a piece of shit? How annoying.

>I went to buy some citadel paint pots and found some of them were labeled as "base" paint. Is there an actual difference in formulation between base and non-base paint or is it just saying the colors are suitable to use as a base coat?

The difference can range from "minimal" to "zoggin' ooge!"

Base paints have a specific ratio of medium to pigments to work well as the first layer you put on on a model; see - the Base paints are in the middle.

Layer paints are meant to go on top of base paints, although in practice, I've found that the Layer paints I've purchased can be used much like Base paints if you apply the right undercoat. If you notice a difference at all between Base and Layer paints, it will usually be pretty minimal.

The other paints differ greatly. You'll find Dry, Texture, Shade, Glaze, Gloss, and Technical bottles that are all pretty far removed from what Bases do. They each have their own specific uses, and, as the chart in shows, are often made specifically to compliment one or more other colours in the Citadel range.

How would I go about making a base coat with generic acryllic? Just add a few more layers than normal?

I'm not even the same person, but your attidute is what drives these people to troll.

"cheap out"

Being smart with money isn't being cheap.
Interlocking Stone Jointing sand is by far the best as it is small, but has a ton of variety and depth.

Is it the same guy who was working on a Star Phantoms army?

He used to post endless argumentative shit like this.

Exactly what the same person would say.

Sure, sure, no one takes responsibility for their own actions.
They troll because they are trolls. They are shit heads that like to get a rise from people. Don't blame others for your shitty actions.

Probably. Either way, whoever this is, he is a pure breed loser.

Are you an advanced bait poster?

"you sound very annoying"
Is the "attidute" that drives people to troll.

Thank you very much kind user :)

>How would I go about making a base coat with generic acryllic? Just add a few more layers than normal?

This question makes me suspicious, user.

If yer askin' "how can I mix the paints on the right to get an effect similar to the paints on the left so I can slap them on a tiny metal lad like the one in the middle", the answer is, you can't and you shouldn't. Every once in a while I have a use for cheap-ass craft store paint, but it's almost exclusively for putting on terrain pieces and stuff like that - *not* expensive Citadel miniatures. Even the pricier stuff that comes in tubes (cadmium is an expensive pigment, innit?) is meant for artwork on board, paper, or canvas, and is ill-suited to finely-detailed models.

If that *isn't* your question, could you elaborate?

dont do it man. you will upset any whiners you play against. your FLGS may ban you.

dwarf warrior with great weapon.
Still needs to be based

Citadel paints are relatively expensive aren't they? Aren't there any cheaper minatures paints?

> that these bases look wrong because they are too rocky, what do you think?

I think you should also make some rocky terrain for your tabletop.

then they'll fit in perfectly.

>have a spare afternoon
>weather looks good
>no humidity
>spend a minute gathering my stuff for priming
>rattling the can and opening the back door
>thunder
>it starts raining
fuck

Good to get something done, at least. It has just not been my week.

Woah. slick, nice job.

91% isopropyl