Anyone know what best markers to use for models? I want one to use to blacken panel lines more easily, and possibly for doing tau sept marks over doing them with a brush.
Nolan Robinson
Pigma pigment liners Staedtler pigment liners
Carson Johnson
Cool, thanks.
Getting back into working on my 40k stuff after not touching it really since 5e.
Luis Butler
Can I safely put stainless steel bb's in a pot of vallejo liquid metal? It's the paints with the alcohol base.
Wyatt Hernandez
Anyone use a wet palette here? I highly reccomed it. My vallejo paints dried in a femto-second and now my paint stays wet for hours
Caleb Scott
Took a break from hobbying for a few months. Had a lot of fun painting this guy, just a few touch ups and I'll be done.
Bentley Ward
The model looks amazing, but I assume with touch ups you mean do some work on the black, because right now its missing the battle damage from the yellow parts and that OSL color doesnt quite fit the rest of the scheme. Also that mud looks like syrup.
Josiah Morgan
Casting a bunch of stuff from my new moulds. Can't wait to test building with them.
Andrew Jenkins
>because right now its missing the battle damage from the yellow parts desu if I could go back I'd do the black in a metallic black like pic related, but I'm too deep into an army to change now, it would make everything look inconsistant and I'm too lazy to go back for every model. >that OSL color doesnt quite fit the rest of the scheme. Again the reason I did it was more because of the rest of the army has a similar thing. I don't think I'd bother with OSL if I started over. Although it's a lot of fun.
Basically your right but I can't change because I'm pot committed. I seem to get that everytime I'm 1250 points into an army.
>Also that mud looks like syrup. It looks a lot better in person as it's more mud pooling and not just glossy treacle poured over everything. On the photo it just looks like a sea of glossy brown.
Zachary Turner
So I'm working on my first squad of Ultramarine Tactical Marines.
I've got the base layer of Macragge Blue on them and Leadbelcher on the bolters.
I wanted to do the gold trim next, but would I need to apply some Balthasar Gold to base it and then apply Gehenna's Gold or could I just use some Gehenna since it already has a base coat?
Tyler Collins
So here is a shot of my previously brightest section of rust weathered and damaged with a graphite pencil. I feel it has really toned down the "lava" look that a couple user's had mentioned in the previous thread. Also, all the segments have had the pencil treatment. NOW, on to multiple washes and they are pretty much done minus snow and grass tufts. I need to buy more winter tundra tufts before I do that stage, tho.
Logan Hill
>Basically your right OH GOD YES
Kidding, quite a shame, because thats some nice effort for an army you put on the desk, but yeah, changing it now all over again would be such a chore.
Isaiah Brown
Bathasar>agrax earthshade>gehennas. no skipping out.
Ryan Nguyen
>scored a metric shitload of eldar for really, really cheap as an auction >painted pretty poorly >want to strip them >don't know if they're resin or plastic
Any good way to find out? I usually strip with really methylated spirits. and I've heard it melts resin.
Sebastian Wood
either you use something safe for both, or you can try to bend a piece, resin seems softer in my experience. otherwise you can just find something worth sacrificing
Blake Garcia
More from the squatting truescale marines. Trying to get an mk2 version sorted out.
Luke King
Let's try this again: I'm putting together a Prime Axiom for my Convergence of Cyriss army. It's my very first Colossal and I'd like to do a little conversion work. Nothing extreme, just something to set it apart from the thousands of other Prime Axioms already out there. Any advice and suggestions would be much appreciated.
Xavier Myers
Put a miniature church steeple on the base
Henry Thomas
Not a bad idea but I'm going for something to do to the mini itself. Something to give it a unique look.
Look at this Thousand Sons Obliterator. It's got some extra sculpting on it. It looks different from other Obliterators. It's not blown out of the water, you still know it's an Obliterator, but it's unique and there's no other Obliterator in existence that looks exactly like it.
That's the sort of conversion I'm going for.
Kevin Mitchell
Obliterators* meant plural, not singular. Still, my point. As a more silly example, here is Commissar America.
Zachary Allen
the obliterator you used as example is an "obvious" lore conversion, do you have anything in mind from the lore which inspires you? If not by looking at the model i can only say i would sculpt him a face because i like antropomorphic stuff, maybe adding those missiles on his back. Otherwise you could go more janky and make the shoulder things be faces. Maybe choose a theme, like serpents, and make the heads medusa like. There are infinite possibilities, but one you should invent them yourself and two i can't help you any further because my immagination is shit.
Justin Davis
>not seeing the head under that hunchback Yeah, it's a shit mini
Carter Johnson
Hadn't thought about it in terms of the lore conversion, good point. I'll think about that.
I like it. Nobody likes a downer, user.
Luis Gutierrez
i looked back at it and i still think it's a power core, i won't be convinced otherwise
Luke Baker
but- It's clearly a fucking head
Hudson Sullivan
Maybe I'll make the head on it a little more obvious. Add an arm to that socket and have the head at the end so he can look around. I've got an extra mask from one of my 40k Knight Titans, think that would be too much?
Christopher Young
it's a power core,stop trolling me
Austin Harris
I'll MAKE it a head!
Nathaniel Russell
Maybe use that head bit, but connect it to the body with some kind of metal snake-like bit
Oliver Russell
what do you mean too much? Sounds good if you like the idea
Carson Williams
Veeky Forums... how the fuck do you deal with mold lines on gears and other ripply bits? It takes so fucking long and it's goddamned near impossible to get them off all the way. Why the fuck do they have the mold lines there? There are plenty of other places they could set the line along. Yes, I'm a tad salty. What the fuck do I do, Veeky Forums
Kevin Young
Your only choices are between getting gud or buying better models(or tools)
Joseph Sullivan
a cheap set of jeweler's files helps a lot. plastic will gum them up eventually, but you can score a set for 7-10 bucks usually
Brayden Wright
That's looking pretty fucking sexy man. How tall odds this moddle
Nathan Hernandez
constructive criticism please. I really should have thought more about what colors I was going to do before doing it.
Jason Evans
that picture is pretty shit, sorry. also should have mentioned to ignore the mold lines
Jeremiah Cox
Was the metal textured? It looks grainy
Bentley Price
Also is the mini finished?
Tyler Turner
I drybrushed silver on the black so that's probably why. maybe I shouldn't have done that
David Martinez
Here is a picture of the WIP compared to a standard marine
Mason Nelson
Anyone know hall tall the Skitarri Ironstrider is?
The best I've found is "as tall as a Riptide/Imperial Knight"
Hunter Roberts
Smaller than a breadbox
Jason James
I don't think that's it, you can see the texture effect on the bone white too, but the silver probably helped. Did you water down the paint a lot?
Lucas Cooper
Yeah I thinned what I thought was sufficiently. The bone is probably like 6 layers since it took that many before I couldn't see the black underneath
Carter Wood
should mention that I use matte medium, 50/50 medium-paint
Joseph Garcia
Eyes could be brighter, bone could use a highlight up to white, and the silver could be edged as well. I like the color choices overall, if not the placement
Jaxon Young
fucking mold lines
I didn't notice until I had started painting and they're on the fucking hands
Carson Russell
hi guys, I'm looking at painting some nurgling swarms, and I want a sickly pale albino colour. Pale white flesh with glowing red eyes, red guts/pustules etc
my problem is I am unsure how to achieve a good flesh tone for what I want without incorperating greens or purples, but still not having it a really flat white. I was thinking: prime white cadian fleshtone reikland wash whitescar layer reikland wash again
do you think that would work? do you have any tips? thanks
Nolan Flores
perhaps a visual example of the tone you desire would be helpful
Jaxon White
something like the skin on this but without the warm tones
Oliver Watson
I'll look into that all, thanks
Charles Perez
They're actually quite tall, probably around 6-7" and probably around 8-9" counting the Taser Lance. I'd say they're a little shorter than two regular Dreadnoughts stacked one top of each other (counting the Taser Lance the Ironstrider would be taller however), taller than a single BoC Contemptor Dreadnought by about and inch, and reaches roughly the same height as a winged Hive Tyrant's head.
I don't have mine with so I can't give reference pics sadly. This is going off of just memory
Brayden Kelly
Perhaps a very very light blue undertone? Make em look like bloated corpses?
Grayson Wilson
i was thinking i'd colour it with a wash, either carrobourgh to match the red or reikland gloss to make them like shiny, rotten skin. if I'm pairing them with blightkings in green/black armour, I dont want to have too many colours. I was thinking i'd keep it centric on white flesh, green armour, red details. i might just have to do one and see how it turns out
Nicholas Peterson
okay yeah super clean is far and above the best stripper. if you use anything else you're seriously missing out
Noah Johnson
I think I have hair and skin down pretty well. But how do I do the highlighting on the armour? Do I just go around the outside with a lighter color? Fuck
Isaiah Morris
that looks really good. that small dot of yellow going into the red would bother me though
Asher Brooks
Dude you have no idea, the problem is my hands are shaky and i've already spent 30 mins swearing while trying to get to be a straight line.
Anthony Brooks
So I just tried working with green stuff to put a tentacle arm on my guardsmen and it felt Suprising unfun to sculpt with. Big chunks of it were hard to maneuver but the putty was too soft that trying to press it onto my figure left indent marks on the putty that I was unable to fill. How do people sculpt fine details into this stuff?
Jason Miller
>i've already spent 30 mins swearing while trying to get to be a straight line.
I feel your pain, user. This Blue Falcons chapter insignia is all the WIP I got accomplished this weekend.
Hunter Davis
Finished the Dunecrawler I think. Might touch up a thing or two here and there, but it's certainly table ready.
Daniel Scott
weird how refreshing it is to see a dark base on skitarii. feels like an alien ship invading earth or something idk idk what I'm talking about
Logan Smith
Here's the tentacle arm by the way. Not great but luckily tentacles aren't too difficult to make. I think it'll look great once painted and a wash is applied since it has so many crevices
Lucas Martin
I am not a smart man
Anthony Carter
Skin is hard
Can you even see the shading work on the robe?
Leo Ramirez
Much appreciated user. I did not expect such a thorough answer.
Juan Jenkins
I like it user! Now it's time to make those hazard lines straight :^)
James Stewart
If you already put a wash on your figure then you can just use the same base coat as the highlight. Since washing darkens the colors, the base coat will stand out from the already washed layer
Levi Sanders
>I like it user! Now it's time to make those hazard lines straight
Emperor's Teeth! Don't I know it? Every time I photograph my progress on this model (), I see three more things I want to change.
Mason Jones
Prime brown Rakarth flesh 50% diluted shade of the flesh ink or agrax diluted about 60% Cadian or a paler flesh, blended using very thin layers.
Alternatively you can use purple, blue, or crimson inks - diluted- for your shading.
Juan Clark
Got an eclipse coming to me now.
This noob is going to learn to airbrush.
Ethan Brown
Hey I painted that lady not too long ago! Also it just looks black from here boss. I see some white but i'm not sure if its from painting or your light source.
Carson Gutierrez
it's actually blue that fades to purple, hopefully with a bit of glitter (thin leadbelcher) showing through
I'll try and get a better picture tomorrow
Owen Wilson
something that the Tabletop Minions said you can use liquid green stuff for is texturing. I think it could add some good textures to give it that gritty rust effect if you had done that before painting. youtube.com/watch?v=cK97CLGFwY4 I havn't personally tested this yet
Jacob Sanchez
This kills the Ethereal
Henry Fisher
Having any more than one ethereal on the field really has no point for me, so when I bought another start collecting I thought I would create a counts-as for a cadre fireblade.
What do you think /WIP/
Jackson Robinson
flashing the thigh? what a harlot
Brayden Wilson
The breeze during a battle is just so ~tactical~
Justin Ward
watch putrid blightkings tutorial form warhammerTV. At some the start Duncan paints pale while flesh, just follow him up to that point.
Blake Harris
Another survivor finished. 2 more to go.
Eli Sanchez
thanks!
Samuel Thompson
still too bright but you'll probably end up solving that with the washes and such, I think the biggest problem I have with it is that it looks to clean right now, there's no mud or debris on the walkways.
Christopher Anderson
like the other user mentioned, probably change the legs to FW legs but keep the buttcape. otherwise looks good.
Alexander Cooper
To answer your question, you gotta let it harden a little before you ca start detailing.
Andrew Howard
sorry for breaking all the photo rules, it's hard to get it in focus.
heres the nurglings how I have them so far.
Nathan Foster
I scrape my knife across in both directions then quickly hit each groove with my sharp jewlers file. Doesn't take long.
Chase Rivera
How would you paint a model to achieve this effect? Preferably a method that isn't monstrously difficult.
Michael Watson
prime it silver and then clever use of thin washes
Luke Collins
I don't quite follow.
Luis Parker
You can get irridecent paint, I have no idea how thick it needs to be or anything though.
You could try: >Paint a super shiney silver/chrome paint >Use some forgeworld clear/tamiya clear paints through an airbrush
Alternatively this might work but would be much more challenging to get a smooth transition:
Nathaniel Taylor
To be more clear, I was really hoping for a wash that could achieve a shimmery iridescent effect on any painted model. That might not exist, I'm curious to now. Maybe I could just cover my models in soap.
Owen Lee
glazes/washes over a metallic give a beetle-shell kind of appearance
Liam Martinez
Except beetles aren't silver.
Julian Flores
You're not going to get a good irridecent effect with anything like that, you can get a shiny carapace like one with a glaze over metallic but it won't shimmer in the way that sort does.
Kevin Hernandez
Iridescent medium won't achieve that effect. I'd be very very surprised if something could when you think about the science of why it looks like that.
Xavier Thomas
What if you mixed the paint with mercury? Ignoring for a second how bad of an idea that is.