WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

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Nice GS work user.

What plastic kits did you use? Frostgrave one and some Perry?

Yes, your fingers rub the paint. Hold it by the base, or affix the model to something while you paint it.
Nice technique. Whatever works for you is always the best way to do things
Nice greenstuff on the models, but I feel like the base rocks are too flat, like they've been pressed down rather than having any sort of texture to them
However, the beards on a few of them look like they stick out far too much on the face, like they've been plonked on top, rather than growing from the skin

With highlighting, using a single colour all over the model looks a little janky. Try using a brighter colour to highlight on edges that will be touched by light, and a slightly darker highlight on lower edges

Noice

difficult to know what vehicles space marines drive and if they can be converted to some sort of armor equivalent

Thanks. It's Frostgrave soldiers, cultists and Perry Footknights.

Thanks. I kinda wanted the stones to look like busted up pavement rather than just rocks. As for the beards I just decided that they would get hobo beards because it's easier to greenstuff.

If you want busted up pavement, they'll need sharper edges on the sides. the flat on top, rounded corners thing makes them look strange

>difficult to know what vehicles space marines drive and if they can be converted to some sort of armor equivalent

They're gonna drive me ta drinkin' if they don't stop drivin' that Hot Rod Lincoln!

youtube.com/watch?v=NjfPQnGpIjY

Today I hunkered down and did a bunch of Tau bits from the stripped Fire Warrior pile I had been slowly cleaning up (mould lines and paint bits) for like.... 2-3 months.

At long last, the end is in sight. I mean don't get me wrong I still have a box of pathfinders, stealthsuits and a ghostkeel to clean up but those are new casts and generally have very little mould lines. the stuff I'm cleaning is old-school Fire Warriors, with often a thick mouldline running right down the MIDDLE OF THE FUCKING LEG ARMOUR.

Lots of conversion work to go after, comrades, but it shall be done.

They will look better after I painted them and added vegetation.

Touched up my dorf hut a bit. Moreso the clan emblem in the stonework.

Need to work on the guard house next.

Looks good user. Blue foamboard?

Are you the guy with the dwarf drinking hall with LEDs?

Looks cool. Some careful drybrushing with grey on the emblem for highlights would really make it stand out even further.

More progress on the USS Missouri. This time it is the aft exhaust stack and antenna array.

Pic is basically the standard final look for the model, with the exception that the plastic antenna is not attached.

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damn pictures being sideways

>1/700 scale battleship details

Emperor's Teeth! It's so tiny!

Ok so I'm planning on making my Foot-centric Tau a Jungle/Swamp theme. I want everything to have SOMETHING unique and at varying levels of concealment or survival. Ghostkeel, stealthsuits, shadowsun and the like are covered as they have stealth tech to rely on. The pathfinders I'm thinking of giving ghillie capes. A good balance between nice physical camouflage and not covering up premium model detail with flock.

But what do I give my Fire Warriors? I don't want to give them Ghillie capes as well, otherwise they'd blend in with the pathfinders too much. They're meant to act as the bait for my tactics, providing nice juicy MSU targets. I actually contemplated just fluffing it as they just settle for the colour scheme since their role is to actually attract attention.

I COULD keep it that way but y'know, taking ideas.

Also I actually contemplated painting my Commander in a brown crackled texture to stand for tree bark, give him one of those asian ricepicker hats and have a bush growing out of it and have him pretend to be a tree.

Slap a decal on the shoulders and the empty slab on the left.

why do the shoulders go so high on the epic model? its like they're all hunchbacked marines.

I am guessing it is easier to make them like that.

Probably easier to cast with a fairly flat end instead of a tiny extreme point if the head was above the shoulders.

You need something prominent to make up for the lack of detail at 6mm too. Nice big shoulder pad and rims to get an alternate colour on.

Any comments on this before I move on to the next sorcerer?

The mini itself is rad as fuck, but the sultry slave girl seems a weird addition.

Word Bearers are the zealous monastic legion (evil edition). Scantily-clad slaves is more of an Emperor's Children aesthetic choice.

Loving it.

pink hair?

other than this, it looks great

Here's what happened:

I'm doing it for a friend of mine, he wanted to use these chinacast slave girls with this Cyclopia Cabal he's making, and asked me to make one for being on a jump pack or jump pack equivalent. I made it for the most part, putting the sorceror on a tactical wreckage, and added the slave girl on this base as she wouldn't fit with the third one you may see soon, but I was still missing a jump pack, eventually a week later I was given the option to have either a ill fitting jump pack, or these wings here ...
so I put on the wings as it seemed to fit the model more obviously, but with the wings I was tempted to do inscriptions, and then he became a word bearer than the possible Emperor's child or other more appropriate legion. At least in this pose he looks like he's more protecting her as she was backing off from the main battle. Or at least, that's how I'd like to think of it.

Thanks
Yeah, the pink was requested, specifically to make her look as drag queen as possible. I just got a little lazy so I painted her corset and clothes black because that's what I picture when I think kinky.

Thanks for the compliments. I'll be glad to move on now.

That is how terminators used to look - they had really high rounded shoulders in older editions before they got their modern "boxy" look.

Largely done with my bloodwretches. I have realized that diluting a color with water doesn't necessarily make a good wash the hard way.

You know how people say you should have two water pots: one for metallics and one for non-metalics?

Well I only have room for two water pots, and I've found it more important to have one water pot for the first rinse, and another water pot for the second rinse to really make sure the brush is clean. This means I have to use the same first pot for both metallics and non-metallics, but I haven't had any problem with metallic flakes contaminating my non-metallic colors. I guess the second pot of rinsing really cleans it off well enough.

I can't imagine having only one pot of water for a color and rinsing everything there, then dipping into more paint. And even using this dirty pot to thin your paint too? Ugh.

Going to buy my first box from a store tomorrow. I have $40, I'm hoping someone lets me borrow some tools while I wait on my own to come in, otherwise i'll just have to buy a box and wait.

Yep, and pink foam actually.

I considered it, but currently have enough on my plate as is with the project.

>That is how terminators used to look - they had really high rounded shoulders in older editions

Revenebo!

>buying warhammer new
wew
e
w

the shop offers help with building hands on

>being used shit on eBay instead of new stuff at 20% off

Pathetically poor. You probably buy clothes at goodwill.

I actually buy and sell things on ebay/other sites for fun, usually stripping and making things look nicer. thanks for the projection tho

I wish to go full magical realm with my slannesh army.
Does anyone know of any 28mm bitchsuit minis their are? I plan on getting various ones and giving them chaosy stuff.

Wew Lad...

See if you can get the battle for vedros set.
If not, tell them you're new. They'll likely throw freebees and tutorials, atleast if they're a GW store.

Heh! I looked at the first pic without reading the comment and thought I was looking at some sort of 40K 'High-Tech' trash can...

They're an official GW warhammer store. I went in there to get an idea of what the game is all about a few weeks ago. I don't know what kind of freebies and stuff they have though. though if they have a hat for my gaunt that would be nice.
I bought a bottle of plastic glue today, are there any tools i should pick up before i get there. I ordered this and am not sure if theres anything I'm missing otherwise. Keeping it simple as possible that is.
gntools.co.uk/top-quality-tool-kit-ideal-for-airfix-models-and-warhammer40k-games-workshop-model-makers-set-8-255-p.asp

You mean you don't pay 100% retail? You must be one of these "poors" too.

Keep that trollin shit on b and not in the friendship circle.

It's usually a free space marine. but talk to them, see what they'll do.
Buy shit from a small time hobby store if you can, they offer discounts. also, there's recasters you can look out for.

w..why can't i just go to a gw store and support them a little so i can drop my sick beats at the game table

I'm not going to be painting yet. that'll be for payday, the tools i linked i already ordered so in terms of those i'll be okay. Just looking for a few more things i may need to pick up on the way to the store tomorrow from the Micheals or hobby lobby
as for free models I had no idea of that being a thing. Neat.

You can spend your money however you like user but you keep your goddamn sick beats to yourself, no one wants their painstakingly painted models melted from some of that hot fiah.

Stay the fuck away from Michaels. I made that mistake. They're only good for exacto knives and model cars for looting.
Hobby lobby has acrylic model paints, which can help you out. They're good.
I recomend you just go and get this. Literally everything for 42$.
amazon.com/Hobby-Starter-Mega-Brush-Set/dp/B00HC8H4EI/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1467427539&sr=1-1&keywords=army painter brush set

>hobby lobby
wew. they have a better in-stock Vallejo selection than my FLGS, but their selection otherwise for anything miniatures was absolutely sad

YOU CAN'T HOLD ME DOWN

>that huge ass whammy bar that he's holding onto
I don't even want to look the prices of those up on ebay

I'll save the link for later. But i've seen a few good brush sets for a bit cheaper. Like I said, I'm going to hold off on painting for a few days and focus on building right now.
For now I have pic related being shipped from the UK so i'll have to borrow those specific tools from other players or the store for now an xacto, and some plastic glue. That seems like enough for now. Or I may be going full retard.

All you really need is some clippers, an exacto knife, and glues. I recomend super glue and plastic glue, it's nice to have both in your arsenal. as far as clippers go, Any will do. Find some that you like. I use radioshack.com/products/radioshack-5-nippy-cutter?variant=5717834117

I'll pick up some super glue tomorrow then. Thanks for the help. if my build results aren't too shit i'll post tomorrow night.

>good brush sets
I could use some links some time. I bought a set of 3 for $5 a few days ago, and after a few strokes there was already a loose "strand". I haven't used them since because I like my shitty old ones better even in functionality.

what's the point of having both glues? just wondering because I use super glue for everything

Some things, such as say, sights for ork guns, are better plastiglued. sometimes vise versa.

>as for free models I had no idea of that being a thing. Neat.

How do you think I got this sweet Blood Angel Space Marine?

>also, there's recasters you can look out for

Why do you think his head is different from the others?

>good brush sets
My art teacher back in school bought hers from hobby lobby mostly, if you poke around and mess with the packaging you can find some decent ones.
>what's the point of having both glues? just wondering because I use super glue for everything
I think its just because plastic glue is more permanent, at least thats what i've always been told

makes sense

hobby lobby didn't have anything at all suited for minis when I checked, but that's where I got my shitty old ones 10 years ago that I still use. I looked for army painter ones (because someone suggested them here) at my FLGS but my they didn't even have those

>Stay the fuck away from Michaels. I made that mistake. They're only good for exacto knives and model cars for looting.

I disagree. At 40% off - something Michaels offers nearly all the time - a single high-end paint brush can be a decent investment. Also, you can pick up some brush soap there with a 40-50% off coupon and it's not a bad deal, either.

But yeah... don't buy yer paints at Michaels, unless you need something cheap to, say, paint an entire hillside at 28mm scale!

Huh, maybe i just have better stores in my town. Hobby lobby is more expensive but has everything you may need for anything. Micheals is cheaper but is more limited.
thats all i have for local craft stores actually

>what's the point of having both glues?

Plastic cement is only for gluing plastic to plastic. It softens and melts the plastic parts together, forming a permanent bond. This also frequently has the side effect of reducing the visibility of seams between pieces.

Super glue is for gluing metal or resin; plastic cement will not work on these materials. You can also use it on plastic models, but the bond is usually more fragile than that made with plastic cement. Also, when you insert pins or magnets into plastic models, since these items are usually metal, you'll have to use superglue to bond them to to the plastic.

I also use super glue with everything, but that's because all my models have resin on them somewhere.

Plastic glue is worthless IMO. A GOOD superglue that properly cured will form just as strong a bond and won't permanently fuse the plastic. The only time I would say plastic glue is even useful is building shit like Rhino hulls.

i was in on the first reaper bones kickstarter but never painted any of the minis. i've never done this before and i just got through my first 12; lots of learning. i'm just using cheap craft acrylics, and mostly out of convenience.

Try putting that spear in hot water in order so straighten it out, along with any of the other bent weapons.

it is. use 2 thin coats. will not bind well to resin for some, but it works fine for me.

3 deathwatch ready for washes ( the towards the right is a black dragon, hence the bone spurs on head and elbows) . I'm also doing 1 tactical marine from all 18 HH legions. These are the first two (still got highlighting and basing to go).

R8 m8s

why dip? why not selectively line wash?

I'm use modelling sand to base my guys.
Can anyone tell me if the amount of sand I'm using is too much?

Also, I'm trying to get my bases as close to the "goblin green" style as I can but I'm not sure what paints to use at all.

Would it be best to use Caliban Green or Warboss Green for the base coat?

What about for layers? I have Sybarite Green, Warpstone Glow, Warboss Green, Moot Green, and Skarsnik Green.

I also have two drybrushes, Hexos Palesun and Niblet Green.

Anyone got any advice?

Where did he mention he was dipping? I don't dip but I'm so lazy when I wash my miniatures it might as well be a dip. I just slather that shit on. Then I wick away the pooling excess and when it dries, I just clean it up with layer paints again.

is.... is that johnny?

how did you achieve that perfect curve on the top of the white skull, on the middle guy

You're not using enough sand. You should cover the entire base with glue then dunk it in sand and shake off. You should not be able to see the base at all through the sand.

The only exception is if you wanted your base to be partially sandy but being able to see mud or water or whatever underneath the sand, but if that were the case, you would have done that underlying layer already. If it's just going to be sand only, you should not see the bottom of the base at all.

The old school green bases were done with Goblin Green. The closest equivalent is Warboss Green by Citadel, or the actual original Goblin Green from Coat d'Arms. Vallejo Game Color and Army Painter also make Goblin Green, and Vallejo Model Color has Pastel Green which are all close approximations.

Who's Johnny?
Those are just my bases and paint pots.

Thanks, I'll wipe these down and try again.

wot? i dont dip. when i said >washes i meant several types of wash. nuln, agrax, blue, red etc.

I put about 10 absolutely tiny dots of grey paint in a semi-circle as a guide, then I just connected the dots with a line of white paint.

It only took about 2 minutes to do the whole mask from marking it up to painting.

That seems like kinda large grain sand, they're more akin to a rocky surface than a sandy one in scale. There is finer grain sand that gives better coverage and would likely be easier to get a model glued to if you prefer doing the bases before gluing the models on.

Muh Warp Hunter.

is that a Crayola?

I tried adding more sand to the bases.
This look fine for the texture of a green, grassy-type base?

I'm using the standard Games Workshop™ Sand.

i knew it!

the blue on the gun looks like shit (assuming wip), but the rest is amazing

Yeah looks good. Don't forget to drybrush some highlights of a lighter green or a yellow to mix in some other streaks of color. You don't want your base to just be a solid block of goblin green rim and goblin green grass sand.

The glow effect is impossible to get right. I've looked at a bunch of tutorials but none of the techniques translate well to the grippy bit of a pen...

The vents look fine it's the glow spilling onto the barrel that looks bad. Try watering down the blue more.

Old marines were pretty hunchy. Also look at some of the super old metals blood angel user posts, they basically have spine deformities.

Did you add a tiny bit of washing liqud to break the surface tension?

Why would you not keep the internal economy going? We all need to sell something eventually. If no one ever buys we all just end up with useless shit in cupboards.