WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting/Johnny General

And some progress on the #1 turret

I thought the bumps were actually molecular bonding studs needed to reinforce the armor since it was made during the Heresy when good materials were few and far between.

I think my Johnnies are going to be Flesh Tearers and Lamenters respectively, and
I dig the idea though of making him a Lamenter who only has jury-rigged armor.

I'd do some highlights on the bronze. i think it's a little too rounded for drybrushing to be very effective, but that may be just because I can't drybrush worth a damn. Your mileage may vary.

Other than that, I'd do so blue energy effects on the zippy-zappy bits. I'd check out the Skitarri Painting Guide and see how they did the effects for their Arc Rifles and Plasma Calivers.

Pic for ref.

Wow, I never really noticed how big the guns on those boats were.
Looking at the size of those ladders on 'em does give me pause to think on it though.

That aside, I dig the wood.
It's looking pretty damn good so far user.

St. Duncan is finally back with 3 tutorials, including 1h long for new sylvaneth general.
youtu.be/l6ZUfPnves4
youtu.be/K1RIQ0yuAEg
youtu.be/_hLLRvSLiKk

Ah, so a watered down nightshade glaze on nearby parts? Do I cover the layers I'll have built on the energy itself with that wash too or just the metallic surrounding?
I've got some runefang steel and gold for highlighting on order, not sure whether I should be putting the metal highlights in before the wash or after at the moment. I'm a bit put off of layering gold, washing, relayering then highlighting as I think the gold is too bright, so I'm guessing layer highlight wash?

>not sure whether I should be putting the metal highlights in before the wash or after at the moment.
For Space Marines, I always see it go Base -> Wash -> Layer Highlight. It leaves it with a much more weather look than if you were to go Base -> Layer Highlight -> Wash.

Cheers, will give it a go. Got a bit confused I think as most tutorials I've seen always re apply the layer when washing before the highlight, but I'd rather not have my DE with super bright gold weapons detracting from the model

I'm just wondering whether to swap my armour highlighting paints now, originally wanted to do the Kabal of the Flayed Skull but picked up the wrong orange highlight. Think the other oranges might blend better but would mean there's some colour inconsistency in the army

Alarielle is a big girl

...

LONG LIVE DUNCAN

Wonder if any company makes a brass etching of the statue on the turret of USS Massachusetts.

You should just brighten up the centers of the blue areas with lighter blues and work your way up to white

Quads confirm my magical realm.
Also for you...

That is fucking sick. I dunno how well it could be reproduced at 1/700th scale, but one a 1/350th battleship, that would look awesome.

Truescale user here.
/wip/ lend me your wisdom.
I am working on backpacks for all types of available armor and for some reason it's quite hard to figure out which type of armor gad which backpack and what the differences are. Plus over the years we have seen an array of updated versions of each. What is canon? Which pack belongs to which armor type and how do they look like?

>wanted to practice airbrush control
>fuck it, just basecoat the carapace and touch up the skin later

Eh ... one day I will learn how to airbrush 2 colors without fucking up the other

What do you all use to cut metal? Saws or can a craft knife make it?

If they can make ladders, a 5'8" statue shouldn't be a problem.

I'd get it just so I can put it on my BFG battleship.

Use something like silly putty or poster adhesive

So thats where Clutch got the album cover
neat

I like it! More when more is done

You have a defective Johnny.

holy shit, thats a great idea

Anyone got a recommendation for a wet palette, ie brands or sets? I have no clue what's good or bad.

I use mainly Citadel Paints if it matters.

I already know how to make my own, but it's fairly annoying to make one each time I want to paint.

Super tempted to give this lad a chainglaive (?) but he's the last member of a squad and I don't want to leave them with only 9 men.....

I think mobile posting may fugg me over too....

Container. Sponge. Water. Baking paper.

You don't need to remake it everytime? all you need to do it replace the baking paper once its full of paint.

Yay it did sorry lads

>captcha

>painting purity seals
>doing the black squiggly lines
>imagining what the Chaplin wrote
>sometimes say it aloud

I'm not the only one, am I?

No, there tend to be a lot of anons with autism.

Can someone please give me the full lists of items that come with a Forge World Thousand Sons Task Force ?

Also are the hands of the models preset like GW does are they free to put whatever I want in them?

>Wow, I never really noticed how big the guns on those boats were.

The Missouri is one of the four remaining Iowa-class battleships. Those are 16-inch guns.

It's already pictured on the FW website, and you get a rundown in the description.

A hand is attached to the handle of the weapon, but you are free to use whichever arm/arm pair you want. You can google pics of the sprues if you need a visual

For comparison, this is a round from an Imperial Navy Revenge-class battleship - nearly six feet tall! The guns are in the background. These are *15* inch guns, so they are *smaller* than the ones on the Missouri.

>modern warfare made these things obsolete

And now I want to watch a film with battleships.

>modern warfare made these things obsolete

Everything old is new again, user.

just play some total annihilation

Damn that looks cool

Why not Leviathan Warships?
youtube.com/watch?v=Vxxnq5YAVHw
youtube.com/watch?v=Ay_SATuTiWU

See kids? Veeky Forums is funny AND educational

>Flesh Tearers
Fuck those pussies. Flesh Eaters are way more hardcore.

Is that a lascannon sponson shield on the heavy bolters?

They're like the Space Sharks but also vampires in space.
Flesh Tearers are from GW going 'Whoa, the Flesh Eaters are a little TOO balls to the wall. We have to dial it back a few notches, atleast to 11.'

because total annihilation is actually good

they have a hard time tearing it first, tho.

Too small for that. My first thought was a razorback turret but it's too large for that.

it's just the normal HB cover, just cut down almost in half for some weird reason

Flesh Eaters don't look too much different from normal Blood Angels though. Besides the shark mouth, they're nearly identical.

Flesh Tearers got the black heads and pauldrons, a black and silver backpack, and a darker shade of red for the armor.

I might steal the shark mouth anyway though. I got a lot of beakies in my army.

what i wanted is a complete 100% list not just the rundown in the fw site

i want to calculate everything to the last cent.

Ty for the info on the hands thoug. This alone tipped the scales of me not buying it.

Yes, but naval warfare is a tiny fraction of it.

I liked Leviathan. It's not perfect, but it's a fun little game. I wish there was a naval warfare game like B17 Flying Fortress 2, where you get to control a single ship, but don't need to know all the bells and whistles, can just concentrate on assigning targets, course, etc. and the crew will do it. There's that not-World of Tanks game with ships, but I'm not a huge fan of multiplayer games.

I just ran out of chaos black spray to basecoat my metal models and I've heard it's shit and expensive. What should I use to basecoat metal models?

The Pentarchy of Blood (860-940.M33) - During the War of the False Primarch, a dark and bloody episode of the Imperium's history, now largely lost to myth and purged from the record, which plunged the Segmentum Pacificus into anarchy, the Pentarchy of Blood was convened by the High Lords of Terra to enact their judgement. Five Chapters; the Flesh Eaters, the Carcharodons, the Charnel Guard the Death Eagles, and the Red Talons are used to systematically destroy eleven Chapters of the Adeptus Astartes judged Traitoris Perdita and lay waste to their home worlds, finally drawing the eight decade conflict to a close.

>Yes, but naval warfare is a tiny fraction of it.
depends on the map, and battleships are best when you have a mix of land and sea to attack

and TA's ship game is comprehensive.

>it's just the normal HB cover

No, it's not. It goes way lower on the sides than the HB cover, the angled bits are way longer than on the HB cover and the vents on the angled bits are fully on the angle, while on the HB cover they reach down to the sides.

After looking at some potential bits, I'm pretty sure it's the sponson shields from the Baal predator.

I've never had a problem with Krylon or Rustoleum primers. Basically any non-automotive primer from your local hardware store should do the job. I usually use the ones that are meant to be used on random outdoor items (benches, etc.) because they promise to bind to plastics, metals, ceramics, etc.

Also they're super cheap compared to Citadel or Army Painter sprays.

I'll have to check out Amazon or eBay for it. Fuck paying £10 a go for citadel paint

Welcome the Veeky Forums WIP

How thin is your Paint?

>"Tell me your secrets, delicious man-meat."

I got loads of those Kroot meaty bits and been thinking about making like a busted up corpses out of them with some zombie bits. Like someone got hit by an artillery shell and just got scattered into the four winds.

How does the quality of the chinese FW recasters compare to FW quality. What can be expected from such a recaster.

My paint is so thin I started teaching a homeopathy course.

It evaporates before it dries.

There are two kind.
There is the extremely cheap with thousand of products which are all bad.

And then there is the expensive one, which have a very limited catalogs, it's hard to track, but everything he made is identical to FW, sometimes even better (he fix it with green matter before casting and use a high quality resin).

It depends on the recaster and the kit in question. I'd say one of the bigger disadvantages of buying from recasters is learning which kit is okay to order from which person. Personally I've had bad experiences with CCON that required a lot of reheating/bending and green stuff to fix. On the other hand certain Z kits and the (now defunct) WarDream were literally perfect with the only difference being that you need to reheat/unbend parts and you're working in resin (just like Forge World).

Obviously the price point helps. Even with dodgy kits you can order two or three models for the price of one and come out ahead.

Is it ok if I post an ebay link here and ask for your advice? Are there GW hounds prowling around WIP?

Also I've read the feedback and everyone is saying the quality is great. Would it be wise to trust them?

>Spend way too much time and finally finish my first unit
>Pretty proud, they're my first models and I feel like I did an okay job
>Photos I take with my phone make the paint job look like it was done by someone who cant draw inside the lines
Well then.

My paint is so thin it is merely a concept

That was not supposed to be a reply to any post. Whoops

Let's see those pictures then.

>Photos I take with my phone make the paint job look like it was done by someone who cant draw inside the lines

Every time I take a "progress" pic, I see three more things I want to change. The messy Ushabti Bone highlight and Seraphim Sepia shadow on Captain Norville's right foot, now visible to me because of the angle at which I took this picture, makes me want to grab him and fix it...

... which I will do. That's my WIP to-do for today.

My paint is so thin for the time i'm finished the mini has been eroded from the brush strokes.

WIP blackshield librarian

you've been working on this guy for like 2 weeks. Move on to something else, he is done.

Beware.

Image 2/2

CSM player suggestion.

Put the Raptor on 32mm bases.
You'll spare yourself a lot of annoyances.

Looks like they could do with a wash/shading.

Keep it up though, definitely doesn't look like you can't paint within the lines.

Found this on ebay, It's nearly as much as the citadel stuff and much smaller :s

>craft enamel
>acrylic

I think we're supposed to use the size of base they come on, aren't we?

Yeah, I was thinking of just going around the edges of the red panels with some wash.

I'd call that a soild basecoat. Give them a wash and then some highlights and you're golden.

Looks good to me user.

Maybe pop a red wash on the red, black wash on the silver and brown wash on the gold. Quick highlight on top and you'll be grand!

...

Loyalists are on 32mm and GW has already started repacking CSM.

It's only a matter of time before everything we have is on 32mm.

So, why not be ahead of time? They look cooler anyway.

I rebased all my CSM half a year ago.

>tfw you literally drown your models in Agrax

I'm talking like four brushfuls on a 28mm model

arent there some sort of adapters for the old bases, round and squares?

Rocket boy, zoom zoom~!

Man what. You want something like this: www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/krylon-colormaster-white-primer-0481521p.html

It's not even 6 canadabucks.

Indeed there are.

I bought mine from ttadapters.

Be careful because they are smooth, so you can have some adherence problem if you use sand, grass, etc.

A quick layer with the liquid green matter, and it's all fine.

That shits like £10~

Fucking Britain reeee

I will finish it next week

Had some leftover parts and needed to build a new Juggernaut-rider Chaos Lord. Still looking for some jewelry chains to connect the leash to his hand.