WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

almost done with her, just need to do the base

Neat

damn nice. can you give me an hours estimate to complete this?

Im really happy with how the gore pool turned out. It's Mephiston red, purple wash, then tamiya clear red gloss.

These 3 are probably 95% done. The Blood Pact witch is made from a silent one by malifaux.

Why did you use such a similar colour for the spirit and the branches surrounding it? I feel it would look better with the spirit contrasting or sticking out anyway.

one day, I don't have some of the paints so I'll finish it at my lgs and take the pics there

the spirit had initially to be blue but I didn't like the result so I switched for some red to keep it in theme with the autumn scheme

use blood for ze blood god form citadel, it will make that pool even more gory and convincing.
Still, lookin really nice,

Long time lurker here, so i finally got into the hobby recently, got my paints and glue but i only have the one brush and games workshop prices are pretty terrible so i guess what im asking is where in the UK am i gonna get the best value for money on brushes and tools?

>Continuing from the previous thread:
Finished the Bleach Bone highlight on the horns, claws, and hooves.

Now on to highlighting the robes with first Mephiston Red and then Wazdakka Red.

Then the skulls and bones with Rakarth Flesh and then Pallid Wych Flesh.

>brush already has pigment in the ferrule

You'll get better value out of brushes if you avoid letting the paint get to the base, for starters. Long term that will cause the brush to split and become ruined.

I buy from the art shop in my town, brush prices from art shops vary from a lot cheaper than GW for stuff that's a bit worse, to a bit more expensive for stuff that's a bit better.

Tools wise, get a pin vise from ebay and buy your scalpel blades (and handles, for that matter) from basically anyone but GW. A pair of detail snips will set you back around a fiver on amazon, rather than the 20 squids GW will charge you for them.

rosemaryandco.com/watercolour-brushes/pure-kolinsky-sable/series-8-pointed-round

Rosemary and Co are a UK store that sells really high quality sable brushes, their Series 8 brushes are apparently the closest to Windsor and Newton Series 7, which are generally considered the gold standard for brushes in this hobby, but at a better price.

Thanks a lot man, the brush is a like 5 year old present from my nan so it aint my fault its got paint in it because my models are still on the sprue.

And get some quality brush soap to go with it.
Cleaning your brushes properly will make them last longer (some of my W&N Series 7 brushes are close to a decade old and still good), and don't let the paint get into the Ferrule, that's an excellent way to murder a brush quickly.

Anyone mind helping me out? I need new brushes and something to clean/take care of them with. I don't know where to get them from or what exact kind I'd need though. Something for drybrushing vehicles, and at least a couple for painting the smaller minis like guardsmen or marines.

Paint in the teeth with brown, then a shade of yellow and layer up to khemri or a bone shade of your choice ( never pure white.)

Sorry its just bugging me at this point. The rest looks good.

When I finish my minis, should I varnish them? What should I use?

I've been painting with Vallejo Game Color paints and I'm a little unhappy with the shinyness of the paint when it dries. Would a matte varnish sort this out?

I kind of want to get into airbrushing, but at the moment my paint station is confined to a small, hot, poorly ventilated bedroom. I assume airbrushing would be a bad idea?

Yes. Very bad idea indeed.

Was just thinking about the teeth while looking at the picture myself. I will do them after the robes as I already trashed my previous wet palette and started one anew with the reds.
Batch painting 20 (+3) models is becoming tiresome, but the end is near and it will be so worth it!

Still messing with these. Might have to shorten some of my tubes though, it turns out they're mostly much longer than the first one I found.... Makes them look a bit too tall and tree-like.

Maybe I could get some cyber-ewoks for them?

That's what matte varnish does, some like to give them a gloss and then a matt varnish later as the gloss supposedly protects better.

Gloss varnish has a harder finish, there are no "impurities" in the varnish, resulting in a more or less flawless surface.

Matte varnish by definition has something added to it to make it matte, which means that the surface has imperfections or it would be gloss as well.

FInally got all my Nuglites primed, really does wonders.

But man those flying sticks fit the drones like crap, even the longest ones had one drone unable to have t stinger one, another has it's pole hole so big the peg rattles around.

>thumbnails of videos don't show what the models look like
>clicking through
>oh nice, Duncan again
>don't like that chapter scheme though
>find one that I like
>Asian chick is painting in it
fuck everything

>>Asian chick is painting in it
Whats the point anyway?
She has no charisma, annoying voice and her painting skills arent that great, especially compared to Duncan.

Would I get the stink-eye from people for painting my Blood Angels like this?

From what I understand it was done with boltgun/gunmetal base coat, zenithal lighted with silver, and then washed with several coats of VMC clear red and a blue wash, followed by a gloss coat.

Better than "Girl"painting.

probably because shes a female. she also says the same shit over and over again
>"AND DON'T FORGET TO TAKE YOUR TIME!"
x100

>Would I get the stink-eye from people for painting my Blood Angels like this?
There are always people who dont like things.

YOU have to like it but wip will still tear you a new one if you fail though :^)

drama queen again.

OH THE WORLD IS FALLING!

Greetings, Veeky Forums! I recently was given a metal librarian model, and got all excited to paint it up for my Raven Guard. After a little research though, I discovered the model is actually Ezekiel. Someone suggested I paint it up and list it on ebay, then buy a generic librarian. Thoughts/opinions?

I learned that solder is very good for replacing cables today. It's extremely bendable

Other than the DA insignia on the book on his front, he doesn't really have anything tying him to the Dark Angels. Have you considered just doing some converting on him? As for painting and listing him on eBay, I have no idea what your painting skills are at to determine if you could sell him at a higher price than an unpainted one.

Just use Vallejo Fluo paints.

I thought his banner was where the Dark Angels iconography was mostly. I was going to replace his backpack with a plastic one.

>cyber-ewoks

Make it happen

progress on my necromunda terrain

How are the Citadel Brushes GW sells and which ones would I need for painting? Thinking of getting their M drybrush for my vehicles and their M texture for my bases.

The wash brush is amazing.

Speaking as a fellow Necromunda enthusiast, that's pretty neat. Nice use of sprue there, and tanks and silos are always nice. I imagine they're plentiful in the underhive, what with sewage, hot water, cold water etc. To make it seem more authentic, I'd suggest you take bits of steel wire and bend broken remains of railings along the walkways. Just enough to always be in risk of falling, but also enough to seem like ruins.

May I suggest you print a few posters and paste them on the ground level after it's painted? It'll look pretty awesome. I'll give you a bunch, and I know some other user here on /wip/ made more.

Sorry about sideways photo I'm on my phone, anyway.. Dwarf WIP! Thoughts? Beards are hard

Are there any good arguments against priming and painting your models before assembling them? On assembled models some nooks and crannies can be really hard to paint.

It loos pretty nice, but don't think that excuses the photo.

All you need to do is edit the photo slightly and it fixes itself, I post from mobile all the time.

I've heard some people do it, so long as you clean them up first and pin them you're good to go.

Plus, it's pretty much mandatory on some models.

Looks fine, might be a bit heavy on the gold/browns/ruddy skin, maybe some silvery edge highlights on the gold to make different parts stand more apart.

How do you make heavily rusty models? do you paint with rusty color over the already paint miniature or do you use a metal brush to scratch the paint and leave the rusty paint (you applied before) emerge?

Are Vallejo washes okay?

I wanna buy a blue shade, and the Vallejo one is about 5 bucks cheaper than Drakenhof nightshade

Well make sure to protect the contact surfaces you'll be gluing form primer otherwise you'll get a soupy gunk of glue, melted plastic and primer seeping out along the seams, also make sure to cut free large bits of sprue that'll connect to visible areas, try to maybe only keep one connector attached under a foot or similar hidden place.

Rusty or peeling paint?

>when your paints begin to behave like a cunt and you cant get the right consistency
>when your glasses' frames are broken and keep having your vision blurred in one eye while edge/line highlighting

if i am not mistaken citadel shades hold 24 ml, against the 18 of vallejo's i think. but yes it's fine

lets start with rusty because peeling paint sounds like something too advanced for me.

is the picture's white unbalanced or are you on fire?

well they do have a rust effect you can buy, but otherwise you paint brown a drybrysh a little metal on top of that.

Just got a drill bit and some wire. Time to finally drill my barrels and pin the arms of my guardsmen!

Reposting this for some comments and critiques.

Going to prime up some more minis tonight. Always fun when more come in.

are those plastic guardsmen? Evn if they are metal, doesn't glue on itself work for such small pieces?

I'm not gonna use the whole bottle anyway.

Thanks

Ah, no I mean for painting them, as the arms and lasguns get in the way of the chests.

It's harder to place zenithal highlights on a subassembly that's not attached to the main portion. I'm doing a bunch of minis with subassemblies right now, but I'll be gluing them together after everything's basecoated, so I don't highlight things that are in the shade / have inconsistent lighting angles.

ah right, sorry, i thought you meant pin glueing

Paint your model in rust color
Spray hair spray all over it
Sprinkle salt
Thin paint normally
Remove salt with a stiff brush and water

I paint all my character models unassembled, but I don't bother with the basic infantry. There's nothing wrong with doing it that way. You just need to take extra care when glueing them together.

actually 17 ml, just saying.
i also saw the other way around, kind of overbrushing with bronze over metal. Effect isn't quite rust, but it sure looks like ruined metal

looks good!

If your models look like that, no one is going to give you shit.
If your models look like shit, THEN people give you shit.

I assume that sweaty hand oil over a metal mini will fuck with the priming?

Best way to clean it quickly would be... faucet and air dry?

dish soap, warm water and a tooth brush, pat dry with a clean towel or paper towels

I airbrush in a small, cold, damp, poorly ventilated room and its fine...

All these lung fags...

So i tried zenithial highlighting.

Black undercoat, white sprayed from the top, then basecoated with red (all airbrushed). You really couldn't tell the difference between the red on white vs the red on black.

So I just airbrush highlighted with a darker red.

means your red went on too thick

It really wasn't - its an airbrushed layer on incredibly thin red.

I mean, you could notice it, but it was difficult. It really wasn't a powerful effect

of*

He may well have meant thin as in low saturation not as in how thickly it came on.

Not him, but In this case thin doesn't mean it's an ok layer which doesn't cover detail, You need to thin it more if you want the effect to be more visible.

The word you are looking for is opacity(or something like that, i am not sure this is how it is spelled). Desaturating a colour means adding white or black (or its complementary) to it.

For zenithal effects to work you don't dilute paint with nedium, you dilute medium with paint.
Exxagerated Hyperbole

Ah yes thats the word, I know colour theory, just lost in translation.

Anyone here beyond me that has trouble with transfer sheets? I have trouble making it stick and conform to the miniature.

guys what's your opinion on cool mini or not(the galery)? There are definitely some great models, but i kind of feel like poeple tend to give votes in a bit of a random way, not judging the paintjob, but the falshiness of the mini. Am i the only one?

Just remember that it's poisonous

>Hello Tubies! It's your Alexandra here agai- *clears throat* (sounds like car engine failing to start), again with another painting video...

>She has no charisma

How is this relevant? The other two are pretty important though but being charismatic has nothing to do with a tutorial or giving instructions.

I'd consider SDub to be pretty nerdy and uncharismatic but his videos are top notch and I like him regardless.

Are these good for Space Marines, Imperial Guard, and Vehicles?

M Dry
M Texture
M Base
M Layer
M Shade

Looking to use higher quality brushes than the really cheap stuff, I've heard Citadel's brushes are good, if a bit pricey?

it may surprise you to learn that most humans respond subconsciously to facial, body, and speech cues either positively or negatively, and can thus derive either enjoyment from a person with good nonverbal cues and verbal prosody, or can be annoyed or bored by someone who lacks these things

someone paint my stuff for me

This. My other problem with Emma is that she doesn't sound confident and sure of herself, especially when she repeats things needlessly or goes "Um, ...". It's quite annoying. I just hope they don't have her paint the legions I want to do.

If you really want GW stuff the most important brushes are base and a detail brush. With that you should be able to do nearly everything. But if i may, don't buy GW if you have access to better stuff.

My problem is that I don't know what better stuff is. That's why I'm asking on here. I need a drybrush for drybrushing vehicles and such, and something for texture paints and bases, but I don't know what to get other than those. I also need to get something(s?) to take care of them with as well.

Have you got a source on that? I don't doubt that, but would like to read more

Both drybrushing and texture placing(are you sure you will need that?) can be handled by old brushes. Army painter is usually easy to get from any hobby store and is pretty good( the red brown handle is cheap entry level stuff, supposedly en par with GW, while triangular brushes could be called high end), winsor & newton series 7, kolinsky red sable also have the best reputations. Da vinci and rosemary(it's two different brands) are not as famous, but good too.