Don't be a Shithead 2: Electric Boogaloo Edition

Don't be a Shithead 2: Electric Boogaloo Edition.
That means you AND you!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Ventilate, motherfucker
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Reinforcements are en route
youtube.com/watch?v=UID6LEzvRRo

>Previous thread:
48392483

Other urls found in this thread:

ebay.de/sch/sebastian_stark/m.html?item=131877549644&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
youtube.com/watch?v=vWF1glZWQa8
youtube.com/watch?v=m3p_VuPIS2c
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

What do you guys use to display your finished models?

Need a bit of input!

I'd like to field some ork grot guns in 40k, but I don't like the gw model. Granted, it looks kinda cool, but way too expensive for such a cheap unit, and a little too big for my taste for a simple field gun.

Do you have any neat ideas how to scratch the non-gun parts of the mek gunz?
I don't want to buy other kits for wheels and shit, and I am wondering how grots could get the dakka into battle using alternative methods.

With some conversion and paint work, would you accept these as proxies for an Astra Tauros?

I've seated some Korpsmen for scale.

THE FIELD OF BATTLE!

You'd need to heavily modify em to look remotely grimdark 40k, but I guess it could work.

Maybe a little bit too low for a lightly armored transport. The right one looks like those imperial war buggies from the IA books, tho.

Depends on said conversions. Would love to see these as Gorkamorka vehicles though ;)

What exactly are these?

Foam and boxes

The Tauros is that IA buggy. I'm wanting to counts-as these toy. They're not transports.

Appropriate Weapons, Imperial Guard gubbinz, and the like.
If my group played Gorka Morka, I totally would.

They say Matchbox on the underside. I've had them in storage for the past decade.
Otherwise I don't know off the top of my head.

Damn, I read tauroX. Nevermind, then.
Right one it is.

A quick Google reveals they are from the Matchbox 'Mission Bravo' Line.

I have most of these sets. Wonder what else I can count's as ;)

Thanks, nona!

First base layer of white on all the Flamer flames.
Next is a Pallid Wych Flesh base coat on the teeth.

sweet jesus my eyes, ive never seen so much primary colour, i didnt even know my monitor could make that type of blue

Looks like shite right now, but will look awesome later on. I know it. Chaos gods know it.

Haha yeah, the photo doesn't help either, but it's just a quick WIP shot.
And will definitely look better once the flames are actually painted and the daemon flesh highlighted and shaded ;) These guys are like 9% complete atm.

It is your chosen fate that your monitor explodes!
My thousand Sons have a Tetrad Colour Scheme of green, yellow (gold), blue and red. So all my daemons are split into units of those colours.
The colours will definitely be toned down and the flames with be much less stark with proper colouring up to near black at the tips.

Attached image will give you and idea of a completed daemon (for my Warp Portalglyph) piece.

You the portal guy! Love the piece!

Have some demonic buddies, maybe they'll grant you color blindness in Nurgle's name, so you can power through with your demons.

Progress on HH display ( im doing one of each 18 legions, plus the two lost legions).

These 4 need highlights and basing, then theyre done.

And an example of the fire I did on my Tzaangor Cultists.

Just finished some models and selling them

>scroll down ebay.de/sch/sebastian_stark/m.html?item=131877549644&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

Question Time /WIP/. I'm getting back into Veeky Forumss after a decade away. I've build some tiny manz, and now I'll need to paint them.

Half are Native Americans, half are Redcoats. What's the best paint set to buy?

Money is tight. I'm thinking either brown undercoat, or get some cheapo Halfords white spray primer.

But for paints and brushes?

I have a few paints that I think I can revive (not dried up but not liquid either)

Does it matter what type of medium I use? Like could I use a liquitex thinner or is it best to use citadel's paint medium.

Update on my bikerboss, re-modelled a lot of the bike, in particular the guns, so the design is more symmetric.
Still a lot of greenstuff work to do, and I need to figure out the handlebar problem.

Three words user.

JUNK, SPIDER, CANNONS!

Tactical point is go.

In case you were wondering if there's a wheelguard: there is a wheelguard and this is the wheelguard.

Oh my... I have Necron spare bitz. This might work.

youtube.com/watch?v=vWF1glZWQa8

Love it. Some great plasticard/greenstuff fuckery.

Evil Sunz?

Holy fuck, you have the orky look down with plasticard. This looks bad ass.

>Evil Sunz?
Represent.

Thanks. It's taken long enough so far.

>would you
I would accept anything, as long as it is a product of love and dedication.
If it is something people use to be a cheapass, then no. Found an hobby better suited for your income.

Is this a plasticard ball? Where did you find it mate?

Working on some morats. Trying out glazes for a softer highlight transition. Looks pretty good from a foot away.

Backpack will definitely need a tidy up.

It's a plastic bb for a toy bb gun.
I'm really immature.

Aw crap i uploaded the potato version. Heres the good one.

they look great, but last I recalled, you weren't allowed to "advertise" things like this that you did yourself, but don't quote me on that, I may be very wrong about it.

nice work with them, user!

that's amazing.

Is the trukk in the background of the first pic u posted scratchbuilt too? if so, more pics pls

So the idea was hot hammer with a little object lighting. Think i need to go darker on the arm highlights?

This is my first really in depth painting attempt as the other 3 ive done are fairly simple just a banner and some cloth at most

When you've done all 18 can you rate how hard you found each to paint? Maybe even put a list of paints used as well.

thin your paints
stop overloading your brush
stop pooling your washes
aside from that your mechanics and color choices are fine

>get a single color backdrop
>learn to use your cam
>steady it

Pic looks like ass.


Anyway. Edge highlight looks pudgy and in the wrong spots. Less is more. You can always add.
Apron looks like ass.
Do coat, wash, pick out higher layers of cloth with thinned base color. Don't go zig zag like that, looks like ass.

Can't make out any other details because of shitty pic. Retake and we can go on.

After many layers of warpstone glow.

looking forward to finishing this guy

Brass rob at an angle through the hand.

>What's that boy? Did you see some FUKKEN HERESY?

You were doing so well on the fire until you decided to add brown pizza crust. The darkest color you should be using on painted standard colored fire is pure red.

Remember, kids: You don't need to paint, build, or do anything productive to feel like you belong. Just be needlessly critical of people's photos!

I do not agree on either front.
You should never use red in fire. Pure red doesn't show up in fire.
I feel I did the tips of the flecks too dark, but a carbon based fuel source would produce dark smoky flecks on the edges.

Hope this is better

Been thinning with water
Brush overload is something i learned about after I finished this so ill keep that in mind for the next batch
Washes are something im trying to get the hang of but noted

Again very new to this whole thing so I appreciate any tips I can get

Just sayin' but manz actually refers to mega armored nobz, it's not some random term thrown around on the interwebs.

At any rate, you might want to look into getting some vallejo ghost grey with a bottle of vallejo heavy brown. Apply primer with a drybrush for a smooth even coat. It's much cheaper than a spraycan because you can do more minis with it.

For the rest of the paints, it really depends on how you want to do the skin tones. For brushes you can use some model train store ones. They will only last a few minis but they also don't cost much.

He's a boss so I say "grot-autopilot" which gives the boss TWO hands to krump gits.

Is there a tutorial for painting faces, but avoid painting eyes. My pulse is not what it used to be.

You should just thin the highlight color with druchii violet and to multiple thin layers

Progress continues

Yeah but you don't have any smoke on that model, just fire.

Are you Australian?

...

Fucking apparently

Any advice on making good rubble out of cork? Is it hopeless to use synthetic cork for this?

Also, any opinion on these shmucks?

washing is easy as fuck

for apron: recoat it light grey. get a black wash (gw's nuln oil for example) and a brush with long bristles, point doesnt matter.
put the nuln on the whole surface of the apron, especially on the creases near the tiny space man dick. wash is runny as fuck, so it will run down towards the base, so start by painting from the top. get some in the nooks and corners next to the sigils.

dont overdo it on the wash, you can always add more layers. drying depends on weather.

after drying get your light grey again and dilute it with water. you are going for a very runny paint, but dont add too much water.
get your standard painting brush, load it with your diluted grey, and carefully remove a lil bit of the water inside the brush by holding it next to a piece of tissue. this way the pigments stay in the brush, but a bit of the excess water gets out.

now start doing layers on top of the apron, start on the highest point (spess dick), but DONT go into the deep creases next to it, let there only be the downshaded by the nuln grey. let your layer dry. add another on top of this, but dont paint all the way this time, only a lil bit more on the marine's little emperor, so the grey gets less semiseethrough there.

add as many layers as wanted.

after that take slightly diluted grey, soak out water, and do a small rim around the apron's edges. use the side of your brush.

sounds like many and difficult steps, but it's piss easy, looks good, and is a good advancement from being a paint noob.

Paint eyes first, do the rest after that.

Just two more positions to go. I really like the helm!

Pretty good paintjob. For cork you can just grab any cork and beat on it with a hammer or cut into it and RIP AND TEAR

That is a whole can of worms that I don't even want to open.
I'd hate for us to have another discussion regarding the objective/subjective value of money, user.

Even modern synthetic corks?

>Not paint the eyes
>Paint the eyes first

What?

Good job on the yellow, my wall-brother. Would stand beside in Terra's darkest hour / 10.

Why would you not paint the eyes, or need instructions how to not paint something??

If you have trouble painting eyes because you fuck up the painted face around em, just do em first.

If you meant: "Tutorial for painting faces, like skin tones, wrinkles, hair" just go to youtube and search for that

...

I'm afraid of painting faces user. Hold my hand.

They aren't made of cork, so no.

>Hold my hand.

Go back to /d/ you pervert.

Those are either pointing to place that don't look like extra cheese topping or the night sky seen through flames. I really don't see your point.

>Engulfed in the deadly blaze of the leaking promethium pipes the 345th cadian had no other choice. "Concentrate fire on that orkoid transport vehicle!" the officer's voice bellowed through the smoke filled, deadly air around em, coughing bits of his lung and handfuls of blood. He knew that this was his last command given in the name of the emperor, as dozens of lasguns targeted the truck with pin point accuracy.

Such smooth armor panels, brother. Excellent.
Haha thanks. I totally winged it freehand and was happily surprised

Did somebody say d?

What would I have to do to this guy to make him a decent Sentinel proxy?

>I feel I did the tips of the flecks too dark

Thanks for sharing your input anyway.

Thanks for the help I really enjoy painting them up so any way to improve is a big deal for me.

Ive got no intention of playing just painting

Sentinel legs or similar of equivalent height.

...

Does anyone have any advice about how to paint sky-earth chrome?

What do you mean by thin the highlight? Is it one of the GW washes?

Painting with Vallejo and using glaze medium. I do have the old leviathan purple wash though.

Here's a recent picture. I added some highlights (still need to apply the yellow glaze to make the whites into yellows though) and some washes.

If you are using glaze medium, use more of it. Apply a little, go to the next section and let it dry. You simply can't create a smooth transition in one go using layers, can't be done. It'll take about 5 passes but it will look fantastic.

Yeah I feel I was leaving too much of a bead on the model after each go.

I'll try it when I'm less tired and just lay down smooth layers. This clearly takes lots of patience.

Also I feel I could be using a brighter highlight seeing how little pigment goes down each pass.

About how much medium btw? Using about 1 or 2 to one medium to paint at the moment.

With the medium you should apply a thin coat of paint where you want the transition to start and end, then in consequent passes you only go over the place you want to make brighter. Every pass means less surface to cover so it doesn't take very long but it feels a little tedious at first.

You should basically be thinning your medium with paint. It really depends on the paint you're using though. If your vallejo purple is already very thin, maybe 1:1 would work.

Does anyone have any examples of Nuln schemes for Empire?

Are you happy now?

>filename
>pretty standard yet solid ork boy

wat did I miss??

60+ post of "goblin green and flock is lazy and bad" and "no its not fuck you" and "yes it is kill yourself"

Thanks for the info.
I don't want to resurrect the topic but I guess the goblin green is a bit too light. The model would benefit from a tad darker base rim, maybe a dark angel style green.

The grass and the foliage looks pretty dope tho, desu.

Anyway:
youtube.com/watch?v=m3p_VuPIS2c

It's not thick, that's a byproduct of shining a bright ass light on it.
Here's in normal light

Spider-nought, Spider-nought
does whatever a Spider-nought does

>moldlines
>no edge highlights
>big ass holes and gaps at shoulders
>mouth looks like shit

Ya you're right, the pic really made the mini look better.

Nop cant paint faces for fuck sake

Fucking eyes

Gibe pic, get advice, mang.

Man I can't tell if you're retarded or blind, because the only gap I see is in your brain.
It's a god damn horde army, I'm not edgehighting 100 boyz.