WIP Work In Progress General

I meant as a pattern,
Ushabti bone hood, and a brown robe.
What brown would work better to patch the ushabti bone hood?

Real sand is ass. It falls off easily.
Use pic-related, then agrax earthshade, then drybrush bone.

Real sand is fine as long as you seal it in straight away with another watered down coat of PVA. Throw some shard of cork on there for rocks and you're golden.

Spread PVA glue with a bit of water mixed in on to your base.
Hold model, dip base into the sand, full submerging it and move it around. Remove from sand, tap off excess.
Let dry for a few hours (or better yet, over night)
Tap bases to get rid of excess sand not glued down after drying.
Paint sand completely/solidly Zamesi Desert, let dry, wash Agrax Earth Shade, let dry, dry brush Ushabti Bone and then once dry, lightly dry brush White Scar.
Paint base rim Zamesi Desert or Abaddon Black.

>pic-related

Or buy the same stuff for 1/3 the price from a different brand.

It's just not meant for that kit. Get 2 rhinos that actually fit the kit for 10 dollars off ebay or some trading site.

So will it work if I coat my models in 'ard coat and then spray with purity seal?

Where can you get decent texture paints for $1.40?

How would I do about making bases that look like ice? Kinda like an ice tundra or glacier

I had an idea to make my orks to come from an ice world. Where it is so cold and uninhabitable that orks fungus still grows but misses its natural green.

I know this probably doesn't make 100% sense fluff wise

He probably meant the giant Vallejo tubs which cost more but you get a lot more for your money.

Tamiya Sand Paste is 18€ for 250ml, thats around 0,85€ for 12,5ml ($0,93 or something around that)
modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=87122

Vallejo texture paint (i prefer the tamiya stuff for sand though):
200ml for 6,39 Pound (i'm to lazy to calculate the rest, its way cheaper thats obvious)
waylandgames.co.uk/148-stone-texture

Find shops that sell the stuff in the US yourself, i just took what google gave me.

Adding a 3rd layer of Glow in the Dark paint ripples on top of the 2nd layer of Woodland Scenics Realistic Water.

just pick any acrylic based paste and you get more "effect paint" than you'll ever need for a few bucks.

I'm starting to feel like this is a less is more situation.

You should really be mixing the glow paint with blue

That you tried at all is fine, and I think it is a neat idea. If you showed me your orks painted that way, I would say, "Good Job."

Base wise, you can get crackle medium (vallejo makes one, or check yr craf sto'). Mix crackle medium with white paint, paint over white, let it dry and crackle, and then wash with a light/sky blue. Add little piles of snow on top, and bob's your uncle.

GW should be your least option for anything besides the actual miniatures.

or just use paste or spackle.

crackle medium for snow, you srs?

Painted up two variants of my intended colour scheme. Overall look is a mix of dark blue, iron/metallic, and white. Weapons use hazard stripes because I like the extreme contrast with the rest of the model; it makes em more visibly interesting, I think.

Mostly wondering about shoulder trim.
Left mini: white trim
Middle: metallic
Right: blue

Blue-shoulder guy also has an alternate chapter symbol, my freehand attempt at doing the Blackshield sword-stabbing-snake design from 30k. Needs work.

Which looks best?

...

he did say ice

I like the one on the right

Also, to whomever suggested using masking tape when doing hazard stripes, you have all of my thanks. It worked much, much better than doing it freehand.

Weirdnob Shaman - still WIP as I have many things to tidy up and finish

Those smoke effects are fantastic.

There's even dedicated ice-sheath material. Expensive as hell, but looks really nice if used properly.

precisioniceandsnow.com/

You may want to shrink the images a little bit before posting in future user.

Quite a few people read this on mobile and those images are bandwidth murder.

Not to mention, they load really slowly on PC as well.

Sorry. I'll keep that in mind in the future.

Thanks bud!

My WIP herald of Khorne, what do you guys think?

Thin your paints, work on your freehand and do cleanup. A tip for red eyes is filling it with white and then using a red wash. The white will show through and simulate the appearance of glowing eyes.

How big is this compared to pre AoS orcs?

Around a head taller. Orruks are pretty fucking huge compared to Nobs

No harm no foul.
Just a friendly heads-up.

Apart from the bugger being very out of focus/fuzzy the transition on the sword does look pretty well done. Nice work user.

So ogre size?

Nice dubs satan, and thank you. My phone is a bit of a dick when taking pictures.

Okay so next up is getting the front plate on.

Would it be too jarring to make the Contemptor's front plate black? I like the idea that he's either been promoted or honoured recently so his armour is still yellow, but at least they took his front plate off and repainted it in veteran's black.

Maybe drill and cut some bolter holes into the front plate to let the yellow show through, or even try to follow a flaking tutorial so in places the black is flaking away to show the old yellow underneath?

Take ultra thin plasticard, cut into pieces, pull em out a bit, glue to blue based base. Varnish the shit out of it.

Like so

Good advice, but these are just quick mock ups to see if I like the colour scheme. But yeah, I need a hell of a lot of practice doing freehand. I may just buckle down and invest in some transfers.

for continuous ice, I agree, they also make sheaths to look like they have airbubbles trapped in them, those are harder to replicate.

Their snow flock is amazing looking stuff though, but I haven't tried it myself.

Not enuff waaagh in dis wip.

Dis boyz gonna get a few more highlights and orky checkaz.
Dey are already red, so dey go fasta.

Fucking huge. Are all new orruks going to be this big or the ironjaws are just full of steroids?

>Transfers

I like your colour scheme and I'm not the best painter myself. I'll post some of my Word Bearers later.

The Ironjaws are biggest of the biggest.

speaking of big guys

>Word Bearers

Looking forward to see them.

Oops, forgot to delete the transfers part.

check out that flash git on the left
bet he shoots real good

greenstuffworld.com/en/textured-rolling-pins/224-Rolling-Pin-Hobby-Roller-Wood-Frozen.html?search_query=rolling pin&results=20

I love the look of black on yellow, just keep the black stuff small. Too much and you start looking a bit bee-ish.

He's just a soshul boy. Da headgubbinz help da boyz behind him to aim betta.

No srsly I don't have a clue. These were some of my first models, around the time black reach came out. Build them, never painted them until today. Didn't even clear all the mold lines back then, I tried to get em now. But missed a few.

Also cross hair on the gun barrel from the boy in the middle.

>Word Bearers
Please do. Great legion, great colours.

nice red paintjob

I think silver trim looks the best, blue in second place. Personally I'd make the knee pads blue as well to break up all that silver but that's a personal taste thing.

>Warmachine

God damn, this sweet sweet dragon fuck, hows the quality of their stuff?

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

Privateer Press makes solid minis, good quality. I left the game before all the plastic stuff came out but from what I've seen it's still good.

Comparatively bad. Most plastic is actually "restic" (something between plastic and resin that lacks the best qualities of either), metal is "white metal" of the old GW kind (kinda brittle), literally every single box/blister of metal minis had some sort of miscast (usually torn molds leaving bits that had to be painstakingly gouged out). Oh and get used to pinning.

I mean, it's not shit, but it's not pleasant to work with either. If you just want a mega-dragon to put on the shelf and not an entire army it's not a big problem.

(yes, I built Nyss Hunters)

I made the exact same konversion on my first box of ork boyz, except I attached it to a helmeted head rather than doing it bionikally. I liked the idea of the boy being very proud of his aimy gubbin

Ice sheets:
lay out a sheet of wax paper (not parchment paper).
Using an old brush that you do not care about, paint out some "sheets" of ice with Realistic Water/Water Effects/Clear liquid Resin

Let dry. Bend sheet of wax paper and remove your sheets of ice. Glue in place.

Maybe just ... don't post if you have nothing but snark and... don't know what you are talking about? Just because you know *something* does not mean you know *everything* and you don't know what you don't know.

tl;dr shhaddap:

forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/43463-tutorial-creating-ice-bases/

I prefer metallica trim

>I mean, it's not shit, but it's not pleasant to work with either.
So basically... zhanuchi / chinaman quality?

>cleaning upstairs
>notice something weird at the bottom of an otherwise empty air conditioner box.
>find pic related
>I definately didnt make these
>NO ONE ELSE in my family plays warhammer.
I dont know if I should be overjoyed, or terrified

?
Using crackle medium make a perfectly adequate looking ice effect

I honestly don't understand the point you're trying to make

inb4 recastfags claim their shitty bootlegs are super awesome and perfect and even better than the original

Warma plastic is even shittier than recasts. Treat it like Finecast. If it's metal or very new, it's great. If it's an old kit converted to plastic it's shit. I.e. old heavy warjacks.

>original Satyxis
>have to glue on horns individually

>inb4 recastfags claim their shitty bootlegs are super awesome and perfect and even better than the original
I mean you get what you pay for - nothing special but you cant complain for that price.
Liking my china Elysians.

Mhm, guess I will give it a try. Someday.

Just believe in the power of the Skeleton, and don't fear it- embrace it.

Not a PP apologist, but it isn't nearly that bad. Biggest issues tend to be excessive venting/flash and moldlines all over the place, and very often over detail, rather than out and out miscasts (which happen at a rate more or less commensurate with other manufacturers').

que espooquido

Resin and metal are good. Plastic is bad and has poor mouldline placement.

I believe that model is resin with some metal.

I'd make the liquid more bluish, it would contrast better with the stones as well as just look cleaner.

What colours would I use for two armies that combine into one with a sun/moon aesthetic?

Clearly seeing as a linked a tutorial for an awesome way to do it. If something doesn't make sense to you... maybe it is because what you are thinking... simply makes no sense and should be forgotten.

Thanks for the input.

I think it looks better with one knee painted blue, but two looks good as well.
I have no idea why the top of his left leg looks blue. In person it's clearly silver.

How do you start buying from chinaman, anyway?

Deep blue and light grey. If you're doing Citadel Paints, I'd recommend Aitloc Blue and Administorum (or something similar) grey. The two work well together.

Preferably colours that function together and doesnt meld into hurting your eyes, as a side note.

google it, reddit has a guide and his most recent catalogs, and then follow the instructions. it's usually an email with a list of wanted items along with a paypal account to send the invoice to, then you pay it and he sends it

looks cool but that photo is fucking shit

I was thinking white as a primary but I know fuckall what I want to do for a secondary and I really don't have the time right now to try anything. Thank you for the input anyway

Oh wait I misread that as just the moon- nvm do any bright color and a less shiny, darker counterpart.

Oh I am. I'm already working on fixing them up. I replaced the broken shield arm, the spear guy i gave a sword. I have 15 skellymans from when I tried to get into into WHFB. Hopefully I can find 3 more, or I can jerry rig some from my bitz box so i can have 20 bonerbros for AoS if I ever decide to play.

Making a new baby mutli-eye spawn in my wet palette.

Yea I think those knee pads look solid. You could always use both in your army if you wanted to, like double pads for tac squads and single pads for specialist squads.

Clever. I like it.

Ideas for making this pyramid texture?

3d printing would obviously work but I don't have access to a 3d printer.

Optical illusion or just going to work with wood

Kneecaps designate which company they are part of