/hwg/ - Historical Wargames General

Saint Olaf Edition

Previous thread: Get in here, post games, miniatures, questions, whatever you like.

List of mini providers:
docs.google.com/document/d/1uGaaOSvSTqpwPGAvLPY3B5M2WYppDhzXdjwMpqRxo9M/edit

List of Historical Tactical, Strategic, and Military Drill treatises:
pastebin.com/BfMeGd6R

ZunTsu Gameboxes:
mediafire.com/folder/yaokao3h1o4og/ZunTsu_GameBoxes

/hwg/ Steam Group:
steamcommunity.com/groups/tghwg/

Games, Ospreys & References folders:
mediafire.com/folder/lu95l5mgg06d5/Ancient
mediafire.com/folder/81ck8x600cas4/Medieval
mediafire.com/folder/w6m41ma3co51e/Horse_and_Musket
mediafire.com/folder/vh1uqv8gipzo1/Napoleonic
mediafire.com/folder/bbpscr0dam7iy/ACW
mediafire.com/folder/bvdtt01gh105d/Victorian
mediafire.com/folder/b35x147vmc6sg/World_War_One
mediafire.com/folder/z8a13ampzzs88/World_War_Two
mediafire.com/folder/z8i8t83bysdwz/Vietnam_War
mediafire.com/folder/7n3mcn9hlgl1t/Modern

mediafire.com/folder/8tatre3vd10yv/Avalon_Hill
mediafire.com/folder/pq6ckzqo3g6e6/Field_Of_Glory
mediafire.com/folder/r2mff8tnl8bjy/GDW
mediafire.com/folder/whmbo8ii2evqh//SPI
mediafire.com/folder/ws6yi58d2oacc/Strategy_&_Tactics_Magazine
mediafire.com/folder/lx05hfgbic6b8/Naval_Wargaming
mediafire.com/folder/s1am77aldi1as/Wargames

Other urls found in this thread:

mediafire.com/download/cghxf3475qy46aq/Wargaming Compendium.pdf
mediafire.com/folder/alj31go19tmpm/SAGA
mediafire.com/download/o5x6blwoczojmfr/Black Powder.pdf
mediafire.com/folder/n7jmdnlv1n0ju/Bolt_Action
mega.nz/#F!s9xTTDpQ!CasEjRETeqZsJ5LOzYrJdg
mediafire.com/download/uttov32riixm9b0/Warhammer Ancient Battles 2E.pdf
mediafire.com/download/ta7aj1erh7sap1t/Warhammer Ancient Battles - Armies of Antiquity v2.pdf
mediafire.com/download/cifld8bl3uy2i5g/Warmaster Ancients.pdf
mediafire.com/download/3emyvka11bnna1b/Warmaster Ancient Armies.pdf
mediafire.com/folder/d9x0dbxrpjg48/Advanced_Squad_Leader
mediafire.com/folder/28i9gevqws518/Impetus
mediafire.com/download/m8xke04pc3hne2k/Ronin.pdf
mediafire.com/folder/cb83cg7ays4l1/Battleground_WWII
mega.co.nz/#!jxgCWTYD!FCp52DAqIUc-EM-TsRsWv7fB92nJ3kkzKsNcD_urI5Q
mediafire.com/folder/7b5027l7oaz05/Modelling_&_Painting_Guides
mega.co.nz/#F!C9sQhbwb!NVnD4jvUn5inOrPJIAkBhA
mega.co.nz/#F!b5tgXRwa!mzelRNrKPjiT8gP7VrS-Jw
mediafire.com/folder/eupungrg93xgb/Next_War
mega.nz/#F!SolyxarJ!GUg6zWBStfznr6BvYedghQ
mediafire.com/download/326moxltj9tz7ht/Osprey - ELI 003 - The Vikings.pdf
mediafire.com/download/f8ky63p8jjbq7i4/Osprey - MAA 396 - Medieval Scandinavian Armies (1) 1100-1300.pdf
mediafire.com/download/smf09b3tb433m2t/Osprey - WAR 003 - Viking Hersir 793-1066.pdf
pastebin.com/JbWVPMAB
bbc.co.uk/programmes/b03tt7kn
pastebin.com/fsFnRkU0
dropbox.com/s/rd5rlixftdbvhbo/Black Powder Zulu PDF.pdf?dl=0
mediafire.com/download/zxs2a00o2xtxxql/Osprey - CBT 016 - Templar Knight vs Mamluk Warrior 1218-50.pdf
mediafire.com/download/yjooa0la1qawl59/Osprey - DUE 064 - Byzantine Warship vs Arab Warship.pdf
mediafire.com/download/eu1k1d424s2ky35/Osprey - FOR 076 - Saracen Strongholds 630-1050.pdf
mediafire.com/download/b5rg3911m13b71h/Osprey - FOR 087 - Saracen Strongholds 1100-1500.pdf
mediafire.com/download/2t66bt2pc61ii4m/Osprey - MAA 125 - The Armies of Islam 7th-11th Centuries.pdf
mediafire.com/download/5sn46pirygc8zbv/Osprey - MAA 171 - Saladin and the Saracens.pdf
mediafire.com/download/g9l6hreupc9vltt/Osprey - MAA 243 - Rome's Enemies (5) The Desert Frontier.pdf
mediafire.com/download/1fkz4fswdzwvkfv/Osprey - MAA 255 - Armies of the Muslim Conquest.pdf
mediafire.com/download/tim3wovmcsff3lm/Osprey - MAA 259 - The Mamluks 1250-1517.pdf
mediafire.com/download/712ya5z1pybep3h/Ship Shapes (1942).pdf
mediafire.com/download/w88rp1b70wc3xa5/Black Powder - Zulu!.pdf
mediafire.com/download/ajsd2849skmbhhr/Osprey - DUE 075 - Bradley vs BMP.pdf
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

>Wargaming Compendium
mediafire.com/download/cghxf3475qy46aq/Wargaming Compendium.pdf
>Saga
mediafire.com/folder/alj31go19tmpm/SAGA
>Black Powder
mediafire.com/download/o5x6blwoczojmfr/Black Powder.pdf
>Bolt Action
mediafire.com/folder/n7jmdnlv1n0ju/Bolt_Action
>Hail Caesar
mega.nz/#F!s9xTTDpQ!CasEjRETeqZsJ5LOzYrJdg
>Warhammer Ancient battles 2.0
mediafire.com/download/uttov32riixm9b0/Warhammer Ancient Battles 2E.pdf
mediafire.com/download/ta7aj1erh7sap1t/Warhammer Ancient Battles - Armies of Antiquity v2.pdf
>Warmaster Ancients
mediafire.com/download/cifld8bl3uy2i5g/Warmaster Ancients.pdf
mediafire.com/download/3emyvka11bnna1b/Warmaster Ancient Armies.pdf
>Advanced Squad Leader
mediafire.com/folder/d9x0dbxrpjg48/Advanced_Squad_Leader
>Impetus
mediafire.com/folder/28i9gevqws518/Impetus
>Ronin
mediafire.com/download/m8xke04pc3hne2k/Ronin.pdf
>Battleground WWII
mediafire.com/folder/cb83cg7ays4l1/Battleground_WWII
>By Fire And Sword
mega.co.nz/#!jxgCWTYD!FCp52DAqIUc-EM-TsRsWv7fB92nJ3kkzKsNcD_urI5Q
>Modelling & painting guides
mediafire.com/folder/7b5027l7oaz05/Modelling_&_Painting_Guides
>Twilight 2000/2013 RPG
mega.co.nz/#F!C9sQhbwb!NVnD4jvUn5inOrPJIAkBhA
>Phoenix Command RPG
mega.co.nz/#F!b5tgXRwa!mzelRNrKPjiT8gP7VrS-Jw
>Next War (GMT)
mediafire.com/folder/eupungrg93xgb/Next_War
>Battlegroup
mega.nz/#F!SolyxarJ!GUg6zWBStfznr6BvYedghQ

Desired scans :
Black Powder supplements
Rank and File supplements
Harpoon 3 & 4 supplements
Hail Caesar! Late Antiquity to Early Medieval Army List
Force on Force supplements
Hind Commander
At Close Quarters
War and Conquest
Germany Strikes!
Bolt Action: Empire in Flames

July 29th in military history:

238 – The Praetorian Guard storm the palace and capture Pupienus and Balbinus. They are dragged through the streets of Rome and executed. On the same day, Gordian III, age 13, is proclaimed emperor.
1014 – Byzantine–Bulgarian wars: Battle of Kleidion: Byzantine emperor Basil II inflicts a decisive defeat on the Bulgarian army, and his subsequent treatment of 15,000 prisoners reportedly causes Tsar Samuil of Bulgaria to die of a heart attack less than three months later, on October 6.
1018 – Count Dirk III defeats an army sent by Emperor Henry II in the Battle of Vlaardingen.
1030 – Ladejarl-Fairhair succession wars: Battle of Stiklestad: King Olaf II fights and dies trying to regain his Norwegian throne from the Danes.
1148 – The Siege of Damascus ends in a decisive crusader defeat and leads to the disintegration of the Second Crusade.
1588 – Anglo-Spanish War: Battle of Gravelines: English naval forces under the command of Lord Charles Howard and Sir Francis Drake defeat the Spanish Armada off the coast of Gravelines, France.
1693 – War of the Grand Alliance: Battle of Landen: France wins a Pyrrhic victory over Allied forces in the Netherlands.
1864 – American Civil War: Confederate spy Belle Boyd is arrested by Union troops and detained at the Old Capitol Prison in Washington, D.C.
1937 – Tōngzhōu Incident: In Tōngzhōu, China, the East Hopei Army attacks Japanese troops and civilians.
1965 – Vietnam War: The first 4,000 101st Airborne Division paratroopers arrive in Vietnam, landing at Cam Ranh Bay.
1967 – Vietnam War: Off the coast of North Vietnam the USS Forrestal catches on fire in the worst U.S. naval disaster since World War II, killing 134.

It is 986 years since the Battle of Stiklestad, one of the most famous battles in the history of Norway, where King Olaf II of Norway (Old Norse: Óláfr Haraldsson) was killed. He was later canonized.

His younger half-brother, Harald Hardrada, was also present at the battle. He became King of Norway in 1047, only to die in a failed invasion of England at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066. Harald was only fifteen when the battle of Stiklestad took place.

The authenticity of the battle as a historical event is highly questionable. Contemporary sources say the king was simply murdered. According to the Anglosaxon Chronicle of 1043, Olaf II was killed by his own men while he slept. Adam of Bremen wrote in 1070 that Olaf II was killed in a simple ambush, and so did Florence of Worcester in 1100. Those are the only contemporary sources that mention the death of the king. After the king's canonization it was felt that the saint could not have died in what was seen as cowardly circumstances. Rather, Olaf II must have fell in a major battle for Christianity. The mythical story of the Battle of Stiklestad as we know it gradually developed during the two centuries following the death of Olaf II.

In 1015, Olaf, representing the descendants of Harald Fairhair, returned from one of his Viking trips and was immediately elected as King of Norway. In June 1016, he won the Battle at Nesjar against the Jarls of Lade.

His success in becoming King of Norway was helped by the Danes being kept occupied with the ongoing fighting in England. In the year 1028, the Danish King Cnut the Great made an alliance with the Lades, and Olaf had to go into exile in Novgorod. In the year of 1029 the last Lade, Hakon Jarl, drowned and Olaf returned to Norway with his army to regain his throne and the Kingdom of Norway.

According to saga sources, he traveled with his 3,600 man army through Sweden and crossed the mountains into the valley of Verdal, about 80 kilometres (50 mi) north of the city of Trondheim. Olaf and his men arrived at Stiklestad, a farm in the lower part of the valley. This was where the battle took place, as described by Snorri Sturluson in his famous work Heimskringla, written about 200 years later.

At Stiklestad, Olaf met an army led by Hárek of Tjotta, Thorir Hund from Bjarkoy and Kálfr Árnason, a man who previously served Olaf. The peasant army consisted of one hundred hundred according to Snorri, which in long hundreds means 14,400, and not 10,000. He states that the battle cry of Olaf's men was Fram! Fram! Kristmenn, krossmenn, kongsmenn! (Forward! Forward! Men of Christ, men of the cross, men of the king!), while that of the opposing army was Fram! Fram! Bonder! (Forward! Forward! farmers!).

According to Snorri, Olaf received three severe wounds—in the knee, in the neck, and while leaning against a large stone the final mortal spear thrust up under his mail shirt and into his belly. While earlier sources do not specify who dealt the king his blows, Snorri makes Thorir Hund responsible for the latter, using the spear that had killed his nephew and set the fallout between the king and Thorir in motion. The king's body was carried away and buried secretly in the sandy banks of the Nidelva River south of the city of Trondheim.

The year after the battle, his grave and coffin were opened and according to Snorri the body was incorrupt and the hair and nails had grown since he was buried. The coffin was then moved to St. Clement's Church in Trondheim. Olaf came to be venerated as a saint and given the name Saint Olaf. Stiklestad Church (Stiklestad kyrkje) was erected on top of the stone against which he died. The stone is supposedly still inside the altar of the church.

While Snorri's description of the battle in the Heimskringla makes for epic reading, a lot of its grandeur most likely must be put down to the writer's taste for the epic. Olaf's army probably was of a rather rag-tag character, an impression accentuated by tales of how local robber groups would join it as Olaf made his way down Verdal. The recruitment of robber gangs and other scofflaws was likely no surprise to the polytheistic heathens that opposed Olaf's attempts to forcibly convert them by murdering and torturing regional Jarls and Kings to terrorize them into accepting Christianity.

On the other hand, the opposition, basically lower nobles and grand farmers under the influence of King Cnut, could not have had much time to assemble a large force. When alerted to Olaf's presence, they must have responded swiftly, considering that they met Olaf relatively far up in the valley. Therefore, their action points more towards a small, hastily arranged rally of men rather than the elaborate logistics that would have been needed to assemble a 10,000 man strong army.

Olaf, a rather stubborn and rash ruler, prone to torturing and murdering those who refused to submit to Christianity, ironically became Norway's patron saint. His canonization was performed only a year after his death by the bishop of Nidaros. The cult of Olaf not only unified the country, it also fulfilled the conversion of the nation, something for which the king had fought so hard.

This historic clash for something for the medieval wargamer looking for a classic Scandinavian slog. Given the vagueness of the facts players are free to try what they like.

mediafire.com/download/326moxltj9tz7ht/Osprey - ELI 003 - The Vikings.pdf
mediafire.com/download/f8ky63p8jjbq7i4/Osprey - MAA 396 - Medieval Scandinavian Armies (1) 1100-1300.pdf
mediafire.com/download/smf09b3tb433m2t/Osprey - WAR 003 - Viking Hersir 793-1066.pdf

>real life PC, /hwg/ style:

Belle Boyd, aka "The Cleopatra of the Secession", aka "Siren of the Shenandoah", was a Confederate spy in the American Civil War. From West Virginia (then still part of VA), Boyd would describe her childhood as idyllic; living a care-free life of a reckless tomboy. Despite her family's lack of money, she received a good education.

According to her own account, on July 4, 1861, a band of Union army soldiers heard she had Confederate flags in her room, and they came to investigate. They hung a Union flag outside her home. This made her angry enough, but when one of them cursed at her mother, she was enraged. Boyd pulled out a pistol and shot and killed the man. A board of inquiry exonerated her, but sentries were posted around the house and officers kept close track of her activities. She profited from this enforced familiarity, charming at least one of the officers into revealing military secrets. "To him," she wrote later, "I am indebted for some very remarkable effusions, some withered flowers, and a great deal of important information." Boyd conveyed those secrets to Confederate officers via her slave, Eliza Hopewell, who carried the messages in a hollowed-out watch case. On her first attempt at spying she was caught and told she could be sentenced to death, but was not. She was not scared and realized she needed to find a better way to communicate.

One evening in mid-May 1862, Union General James Shields and his staff gathered in the parlor of the local hotel. Boyd hid in the closet in the room, eavesdropping through a knothole she enlarged in the door. She learned that Shields had been ordered east from Front Royal, Virginia, a move that would reduce the Union Army's strength at Front Royal. That night, Boyd rode through Union lines, using false papers to bluff her way past the sentries, and reported the news to Col. Turner Ashby, who was scouting for the Confederates. She then returned to town.

When the Confederates advanced on Front Roya, Boyd ran to greet Jackson's men, avoiding enemy fire that put bullet holes in her skirt. She urged an officer to inform Jackson that "the Yankee force is very small. Tell him to charge right down and he will catch them all." Jackson did and that evening penned a note of gratitude to her: "I thank you, for myself and for the army, for the immense service that you have rendered your country today." For her contributions, she was awarded the Southern Cross of Honor. Jackson also gave her an honorary aide-de-camp position.

According to tradition, she was eventually betrayed by her love. She was arrested on July 29, 1862, and brought to the Old Capitol Prison in Washington, D.C., the next day. An inquiry was held on August 7, concerning violations of orders that Boyd be kept in close custody. Boyd was held for a month before being released on August 29, when she was exchanged at Fort Monroe.

In 1864, she went to England where she met and married a Union naval officer, Samuel Wylde Hardinge. Boyd became an actress in England. Following the death of her husband in 1866, she returned to the United States on November 11, 1869. She married John Swainston Hammond in New Orleans. After a divorce in 1884, Boyd married Nathaniel Rue High in 1885. A year later, she began touring the country giving dramatic lectures of her life as a Civil War spy.

While touring the United States (she had gone to address members of a GAR post), she died of a heart attack in Kilbourne City (now known as Wisconsin Dells), Wisconsin, on June 11, 1900. She was 57 years old. She was buried in the Spring Grove Cemetery in Wisconsin Dells, with members of the Local GAR as her pallbearers. For years her grave simply read:

BELLE BOYD
CONFEDERATE SPY
BORN IN VIRGINIA
DIED IN WISCONSIN AND WAS BURIED IN SPRING GROVE CEMETERY
ERECTED BY A COMRADE

...

In the scope of European history, medieval knights interest me because they are as close as Europe got to a warrior "caste".

Chivalry is cool and all, but how prevalent was it in actuality? I wanted to make a Knight character in a D&D campaign but keep him as close to the actual, historical knight as possible.

Any tips or links to readings would be much appreciated

I wish I had some decent sources but from all my readings I'm basically left with the impression of chivalry being:
>own a horse
>take people alive if they're worth money.

Note that those are 1:72, but unless you use 1:76 figures alongside them...
That will be a problem.

I was thinking that might be worth a watch but at 3/4 of an hour or so it is way too long, concision needs to be a virtue for more youtubers. I reckon at about the 20m mark I'd start to feel like the Branch Davidians at Waco.

...

In the medieval folders, there are some Ospreys for basically knights per decade, check those.

>That will be a problem.
Well, there aren't many worthy 1:76 or train scale figures to use for VBCW to be honest with you.

On an absolutely unrelated note, started TYW in 28mm because a friend of mine gave me a bunch of plastics, and in 1:72 my options are rather limited - hard to find Revell (I sold a whole lot of them some time ago), Mars (not the best looking ones, and they are surprisingly expensive), Call to Arms and Waterloo 1815 (too ECW).

Forgot pic.

So since I'm starting a new army I'll need a decent theme and thought I had never done snow before.
Since I'm only close to the GW store I'll have to buy their snow. Will it look decent? What colour should the base be? Stark white, bone or brown?

I bought a huge container of "Woodland Scenics Soft Flake Snow" Its massive, and I've only even used 1/4 of it after 10 years or so.

GW snow should work fine. One trick I can suggest is to mix the snow flock with PVA and create a thick paste that you can apply to the base, or to the model. Works pretty well and makes a thick layer of snow that you can easily stick onto things and it will set solid.

As for base color, a dark color helps the snow stand out, dark brown or even black. I like the idea of frozen mud showing through the snow in vehicle tread marks. Essentially only the side of your bases is going to be visible, so I'd personally go for a nice tidy black or dark brown to accentuate the snow.

>Since I'm only close to the GW store I'll have to buy their snow.
Don't. Use your internet connection and order something better.
>Will it look decent?
GW snow looks okay from a few feet away, up close it looks like mold, cause it's basically just short white grass.
>What colour should the base be? Stark white, bone or brown?
Do you mean the rim?
I usually think of snow like something + snow.
Like urban ruins and snow. Rocky mountainside and snow. Tundra and snow. Forest and snow.

If you just have snow you really have to make it thick, like you are somewhere in the arctic or something.

Google around for snow products that railroad or military scale modelers use. That will look way better than the GW stuff and will like be cheaper.
There are tons of different kind of snow as well. Soft, crunchy, melty etc. Whatever you are going for.

Very clean painting, the buff\tan looks s bit flat to me, but it could be the image and my phone.

Excellent advice from both of you. Thanks

Thanks, the pics really don't do it justice...and it's a bit flat indeed.

Chivalry was a code of conduct that a knight of an order (like the order of the bath or garter) was expected to live by. The average "knight" was just a low tier noble rank with a horse and a retinue who might or might not strive to live by chivalry.

The rules themselves were pretty bog standard, involving stuff like "be a good christian", "protect the weak from the evil", "hold the door open for fair maidens", etc.

Gratuitous Battlewagons user, I had a go at building the HMS Hood using your rules ()

Here's what I came up with:
pastebin.com/JbWVPMAB

Wasn't exactly sure how to handle fire direction, the Hood had 2 main fire directors and dedicated directors for each turret, but I just counted them as 2 directors each in order to cover all 4 turrets. I assume fire directors can be re-routed during combat, so 1 fire director can direct and 1 turret it chooses? can fire directors direct multiple turrets?

Either way the tonnage seemed to add up ok, with the Hood having the correct speed, armaments, fuel, fire control (I think..?) and still having some tonnage left over.

I used Burt's "British Battleships 1919 - 1945" for the info, and some from Wikipedia to fill in any gaps. Let me know how I did. I will try to build the Bismarck next and then pit them against each other...

By far my biggest recommendation would be the Book of Chivalry by Sir Geoffroi de Charny.

Those are the bare bones of it. Add a dash of noblesse oblige, cup of piousness, and a spoonful of chivalric romance. Then let rise for 10-15 years before applying spurs.

I would really recommend Chivalry and Violence in Medieval Europe Paperback – 13 Sep 2001
by Richard W. Kaeuper (Author)

The (IMHOtep strong) argument that he makes is that 'knight'liness and chivalry developed from the culture surrounding the European warrior caste. Once you have a group of people who are really good at violence, those at the fringes of their culture (like Priests and Wimminz) did their best to set limits on acceptable behavior.

Or I could be misremembering. It has good discussions of 'prowess' though.

Take for example Froissart’s account of Sir Richard Salle, a knight confronted by rebels who wanted him to lead their rebellion in 1381. Sir Richard refused them, leading to a violent encounter:

>‘[Sir Richard] drew a long Bordeaux sword which he carried, and began cutting and thrusting all around him, a lovely sight to see. Few dared to come near him, and of those who did he cut off a foot or a head or an arm or a leg with every stroke he made. Even the boldest of them grew afraid of him. On that spot Sir Richard gave a marvelous display of swordsmanship. He was himself overwhelmed soon, however, and dismembered.’1

What is remarkable is that Friossart does not praise the loyalty of Sir Richard, or his piety or fairness, or any of the other virtues we might normally associate with knights and chivalry. Rather, the account praises a male member of the lay elite for his ability to inflict violence onto other people. As Kaeuper spells out, when romances speak of prowess as key to knightly chivalry, they mean ‘the personal capacity to beat another through the accepted method of knightly battle – in fact the actual physical process of knocking another knight off his horse and, if required, hacking him down to the point of submission or death.’2

Have a listen to this
bbc.co.uk/programmes/b03tt7kn

Do you guys know a company which does Bulgarian soldiers from WW2?

First models in my new army. Hopefully it doesn't look way too crappy. First try using snow flock as well.

Also. Sorry for potato sideways phone picture.

Ah yes, the famous battle on desiccated coconut ridge. A most horrific and delicious day for all involved I hear.

>THIN YOUR PAINTS
>Put on a wash/ink.
>Paint Highlights
>Add details (ie. metal)

But much Bounty was awarded to the victors.

...

Since "The Compleat Fondler" is not available to purchase anymore, is any user who owns it and could share it, please?

I'm building a Naval Party so the the pirate's mission could be handy to convert it to SP2.

>go on vacation
>NEA posts a boilerplate ruleset and people other than me actually talk ships for a while

Ok I built the bismarck:

pastebin.com/fsFnRkU0

Also I made some errors with the Hood, so the corrections are under the bismarck stats. Looks like the fire control for the Bismarck could control both the primary and secondary batteries, so I hope you have rules for that (I'm Just going to let all central fire control direct all turrets. Only local fire control is limited to the turret its mounted in.)

Another issue I had was hullforms. What is a hullform? what constitutes the different types of hullforms? I couldn't seem to find any information on "slab side", "Partially flared" or "Fully-Flared" hullforms. So some kind of explanation is required there beyond the 2 examples. Thankfully the hood is one of the examples so I didn't need to guess with that one.

yep its pretty snazzy. early WIP so far but it should allow us to blow some shit up. Next step for me is to test out the combat. (I'm not the user that wrote this btw, just interested in building ships and trying it out)

Good day /hwg/

Just got an email that the 2nd edition of Bolt Action will be releasing soon. Only had a chance to read the preview, haven't been keeping up with the newsletters. What do you guys think about the changes so far? I've mostly been in on Flames of War in the past but have been thinking of making the switch since it seems so many more play Bolt Action (also I really like the guys over at Warlord)

What i remember from out of my mind:

Stuff that was to strong which they nerfed:
>Flamethrowers (no longer autohit)
>recce rule (not sure what they changed)

Buff:
>machine guns

Not sure yet:

>templates for artillery/mortars.

I'm looking forward to it since it seems they listend to the feedback.

Won't answer your questions specifically regarding hullforms, but still a handy reference that I hope mediafire user will add to the naval folder.

However, after reading a bit more: Flare: The outward curvature of the hull surface above the waterline, i.e., the opposite of tumblehome. Increases buoyancy when immersed. Flaring bows are often fitted to help keep the forward decks dry and to prevent "nose-diving" in head seas.

So:

Slab sided is going to be more or less straight up and down from the deck to the waterline.

Flared is going to more or less be wider at the deck than the waterline across the whole length of the hull

Semi-flared is going to be some hybrid of the two, with flare at the bow and stern, and the sides more or less vertical as in slab-sided. The North Carolina Class would probably fit this definition.

Right, I heard the same about the feedback, that's always a good thing to see. The newsletter I got in my email today listed 3 "key new features" which were the templates you mentioned, plus officers being able to order multiple unites to fire/advance together and something about armed transports actually being useful now

Just got another Summer Sale £10 from Warlord Games. Check your promotion folder folks...

I only got the newsletter today, no coupon. You sure it was from today?

>armed transports actually being useful now

A right, they now can fire their machine guns after the squad has left the vehicle.

These 10 Pounds have nothing to do with the regular newsletter. You get them from time to time (either because you haven't ordered in a long time or just random)

Feel free to share your code here user, its not limited to one person, its one use per person.

Does it combine with other deals? Like if I wanted to use that free shipping code they sent out too

If anyone could grab any more pdf expansions, that'd be neat. I'm a bit empty plus I've already used up a 10 pounds off coupon this month for Devil's Playground.

Sadly it doesn't. Tried the same thing earlier this week.

BISMARCK V HOOD:
After a lengthy slogfest, Bismarck was able to get a critical hit on Hood's Stern Boilers, knocking out the main dynamo, and putting the entire ships fire control out of action. This gave Bismarck the lead in damage (both had been inflicting even damage until that point)
Bismarck had a single 15" gun knocked out, but continued to fire with the remaining 7 15" guns
The 2 vessels continued to trade fire, Hood failing to inflict many critical hits, but Bismarck continuing to target the Hoods Stern, causing some flooding damage, and reducing Hood's speed from 31 kts to 10 kts in the end.

After 47 hits from the main guns, Hood finally had enough and was completely rendered useless. A fire broke out towards the end of the battle, but the crew was able to put it out.

Final Damages:

Bismarck 91 damage points left (Started with 465 damage points)
Single 15" gun out of operation
reduced to 25 kts speed (from 30kts)


Hood: Totaled. 0 Damage points left (Started with 480 damage points)
Reduced to 10 kts (from 31 kts), but is now an out of control drifting hulk. Stern badly holed, but damage control prevented further flooding.

Rules that need clarification: Damage control - whats the DC? I just used DC 10 on a D20 to see if crews could control the damage.

Aiming for low numbers is kind of odd. I'm used to high numbers being a good thing, but eh I can adapt, was no big deal.

I'm not sure if critical hits being on a 2D6 is such a great idea, means you have a distribution curve and makes things like explosions much less likely. The odds of rolling a 2 or a 12 on 2D6 are fairly low, and combine that with the relatively limited amount of critical hits I got (12 in total against the Hood over 20 or so turns, firing 8 main guns each turn)
It does work in theory, low probability of catastrophic explosion, but in this game it meant it was a slog fest to the end because I rolled 7s and 8s for most of my critical hit 2D6 rolls. Just a thought.

>free shipping code
Now I do like those.

>JOHNSBIRTHDAY

Valid until 3rd August.

Thanks, yep I checked this out, pretty interesting. I like the stark drawings of the various components! also a very nice drawing of the Tirpitz's various equipemnt

Awesome, thanks.

dropbox.com/s/rd5rlixftdbvhbo/Black Powder Zulu PDF.pdf?dl=0

Black Powder Zulu supplement

...

Death in the Dark continent is better. I have a hard copy of the Sudan supplement and that's rather shit, the AWI one however is acutally really good.

But I'm not anti Black Powder like some are. It has its place as a game.

Since I started basing for DitDC, I could use it for both thankfully. BP would have the added bonus of practically being the same as P&S and HC even tho it's a mishmash scramble of a rulebook.

I actually like Black Powder but that's becuase I played a shit load of Warmaster and Warmaster Ancients.

It works for VERY LARGE games where other systems would get bogged down. Also display games for the public i've found.

Well, flipping through it, I'm not as enthusiastic as with the TYW supplement...just a bunch of "how to refight this battle" stuff, and some stats for units - I know it's historical, and points should not limit me etc etc, but by god, working out units for a specific period takes weeks, why the fuck couldn't they include those in it? Would it have been hard to include point costs too?

Plus yeah...not including a generic table of troops but one for every scenario is not a good idea. Overall, thanks for sharing it user, but I hope the other books are done better than this.

Nice!

Bismark-user, what you're coming up against is the fact that I just posted a skeletal ruleset; the stuff in my head makes sense but it's not all down on paper. To answer your general questions:
1) I assign fire directors to batteries, not individual turrets. You can install as many backup systems as you want (right now). So to model a ship with individual turret fire directors, you'd buy an identical fire director for each main battery turret on the ship, designate one as the "main" and the others as backups.

2) Hullforms need explaining, yes. The ship in is "slab-sided"; that is, the vast majority of the sides of the hull are vertical or nearly so. A ship constructed like the Hood (which is specifically called out in the ruleset) is "fully-flared". A fully flared ship has the vertical sides of the vessel sharply angled in for half or more of its overall length. A "partially-flared" ship is in-between these, generally with a flare for roughly 1/3rd of its length. As a rule of thumb, ships built pre-1914 are almost always slab-sided, ships built later are partially-flared, and ships built during or after WW2 may be partially or fully-flared. Hood (commissioned 1920) is a special case and was notable at the time for her hull shape. Note that if you look at US Battleships, they're basically always slab-sided all the way up to the Tennessee-class. It's not until you reach the South Dakotas that you get fully-flared hulls.

Note that there's some gray area here. For example, the South Dakota hull is only really deeply flared back to the #1 turret. However, there's a hull protrusion serving to both increase the deck area and provide shell deflection that extends from the #1 turret back to the quarterdeck (>see pic). You could make an argument for a partially or fully-flared hull, and both arguments would be correct. This is a necessary side-effect of the abstraction.

>cont

Eh it was free.

Well, it's not absolutely useless, as it kinda helps me in some regards, but still leaves me work to do. Good for a start at least.

Nice batrep. Honestly, that's an exceptionally realistic result between the two vessels.

I haven't actually developed the Damage Control rules, yet. In general, DC should require a 1-turn delay before the issue can be dealt with, and the TN would be progressively easier to make as the game continues (ie, the longer you work on something, the better the odds you fix it). Something - NOT OFFICIAL - like "fix stuff on an 8+ on 2d6, lower the TN by 1 for each turn you keep working on it."

Ships are intended to have 2 Damage Control Parties in total, unless they have the Dispersed Damage Control quirk (infinite # of DC parties, but major penalty to succeed). Limiting the number of parties forces the DCO (ie, the player) to make hard choices about when and where to dispatch their DC crew.

>Aiming for low numbers is kind of odd

It's easier to make the penalty/bonus math intuitive this way. Making a penalty a negative number is intuitive, but if you combine that with a "roll high" system, it doesn't work.

>critical hits being on a 2D6 is such a great idea...makes things like explosions much less likely.

Thing is, magazine explosions aren't *supposed* to be likely. In terms of "shells fired to magazine explosions", they're ludicrously uncommon (between Beatty, Hipper, Jellicoe, and Scheer, Jutland had something like 12,000 main gun shells fired, resulting in a few hundred hits, resulting in 2 cordite fire explosions and one actual magazine detonation). With that said, something I am planning on doing is adding a few "luck points" to Captains (like 1-2 total per CPT), allowing them to shift die results. So rolling your 3 becomes a 2 becomes a Cordite Fire possibly becomes an explosion.

Gameplay vs accuracy. Always tough to dial in.

I applaud the hell out of you, Bismark-user, for taking a totally unfinished ruleset and trying to throw a battle together. Massive kudos.

Oh, last thing. I'm currently beating around an idea in my head about increasing the odds of critical hits very slightly by giving a +2 increase to effective gun diameter. In essense, instead of this:

>11" gun hits 8"-rated armor. 11-8=3. Critical hit on 3 or less.
To be this.
>11" gun hits 8"-rated armor. 11+2 = 13. 13-8=5. Critical hit on 5 or less.

It doesn't hurt lighter-armored ships THAT much; that example is essentially the SMS Seydlitz hitting the HMS Lion. The difference isn't that bad. But when you get into actual battleships with actual armor, you start seeing stuff like this:

Original Flavor
>15" gun hits 15"-rated armor. 15-15=0, round up to 1. Critical hit on 1 or less.
Extra Crispy
>15" gun hits 15"-rated armor. 15+2 = 17. 17-15=2. Critical hit on 2 or less.

At the "evenly-matched armor/gun" end of the equation, this essentially doubles the chance for a critical hit. Armor belts still clearly matter, but I have the inkling that this game is going to end up like BattleTech and a big part of the fun is watching the critical hit effects. Increasing the critical hit rate, therefore, is a huge boost to gameplay, even at the expense of strict historical accuracy.

My huge concern with this is that it has the potential to suddenly make secondary batteries a LOT more dangerous to lightly-armored ships.

> those wave and wake effects

Never fails to get me hard.

Paint noob from some threads ago. Got those water based paints! Now to use them...

you scare me

Cut that bonus to an effective bonus for 6-8" inches to 1 and 5 and down to regular? Alternately, leave it all extra crispy? I actually have no idea how much over penetration was actually a thing versus a WOWSism.

Someone posted an excellent tutorial on a Facebook group I'm a member of regarding how he bases his age of sail stuff. It had me Furiously aroused.

I think the critical hit system is ok, but perhaps have some kind of crew rating that allows them to inflict hits or critical hits better?

So if you have a veteran crew, you get +2 to your roll to hit TN, and +2 to all critical hit TN ranges.

You will also need to come up with a points system, and integrate the crew into that. So Bismarck costs 1000 points, veteran crew costs 500, etc. Make the ratio of crew to ships be quite even, instead of the crew being just a minor addition of points.

Also with regard to armor: I was using the actual thickness of the armor as the "rated against X caliber gun). So Bismarck had 12" of armor, therefor I counted it as being rated to 12" guns. Not sure if that's correct, but I think you should use a system where the armor is the actual ships armor in inches instead of the armor being "rated to X gun" even if it makes total sense in the combat rules, it would make ship building easier.

Essentially you want people to be able to quickly reconstruct any vessel without having to google a lot of hard-to-find information like hull forms, armor rating to X caliber of gun, what each control type, radar , wireless set might be in the ruleset etc. Try to make it very simple for all the specifics used in the ruleset to match real life available stats (ideally without having to find PDFs of "Burt's British Battleships 1919 - 1945" which I ended up having to torrent from rutracker!)

Also any rules that allow captains to get a bonus every now and then (like you were saying for criticals) detract from solo play, ideally you want everything set in stone, no random bonuses you can choose to use at any time. I'd prefer to have veteran captains and crews with constant gunnery bonuses over any other system.

It seems to work pretty well for a skeleton so far, keep up the good work!

Help an ignorant user if you would please.

My group wants to run a medieval (is that even the proper term for it?) campaign set in Arabia.

I need to do a little research but I dont even know where to start. Is there any good reference aside from the crusades where white Europeans went sword to sword with the middle east?

An recommend Osprey book would also be great.

I'm interested in selling hex-and-chit wargames at the local open air markets going on in my region

Is there a cheap way to buy and sell board wargames? My goal would be a product of $20 value approximately. It seems very unlikely short of selling homebrew that I could reach this level of cheapness

Read about the Byzantines. They lost control over Syria, Egypt and turkey at different times during the middle ages

There are books about the Crusade from a Saracen viewpoint too. I can't remember the titles, but rhey exist for sure.

Perhaps these will help; plus definitely check out pdf related, it's like an Arabian Nights rpg.

mediafire.com/download/zxs2a00o2xtxxql/Osprey - CBT 016 - Templar Knight vs Mamluk Warrior 1218-50.pdf
mediafire.com/download/yjooa0la1qawl59/Osprey - DUE 064 - Byzantine Warship vs Arab Warship.pdf
mediafire.com/download/eu1k1d424s2ky35/Osprey - FOR 076 - Saracen Strongholds 630-1050.pdf
mediafire.com/download/b5rg3911m13b71h/Osprey - FOR 087 - Saracen Strongholds 1100-1500.pdf
mediafire.com/download/2t66bt2pc61ii4m/Osprey - MAA 125 - The Armies of Islam 7th-11th Centuries.pdf
mediafire.com/download/5sn46pirygc8zbv/Osprey - MAA 171 - Saladin and the Saracens.pdf
mediafire.com/download/g9l6hreupc9vltt/Osprey - MAA 243 - Rome's Enemies (5) The Desert Frontier.pdf
mediafire.com/download/1fkz4fswdzwvkfv/Osprey - MAA 255 - Armies of the Muslim Conquest.pdf
mediafire.com/download/tim3wovmcsff3lm/Osprey - MAA 259 - The Mamluks 1250-1517.pdf

I think that depends a lot on where you live. I have a friend who makes a modest profit scooping up second-hand books and selling them online. But these days things like Ebay and Boardgamegeek have made it a lot easier to track old titles down; you don't have to go scouring the garage sales and op shops like you used to. A lot of people don't know their value though, or how much an idle rich grog would pay for what just seems like an old board game to them. So you could snap up deals for cheap then turn around with a fair but decent markup and on-sell them.

Anyone plays online? Like thru Roll20 or Vassal
I'm really lonley

we played harpoon on roll20 many moons ago. It was a blast, and some of the most complex wargaming I've ever done in my life....

That's a rather interesting question. Basically, a miles was a guy with a horse and weapons, and the economical capabilities to obtain them. Yet, the details of their life could range from the rich urban knight fighting in the bloody wars of the Italian Comuni, to a feudal noble with his own castle and lands, to the classical murderhobo that had old weapons, his horse, a whore, and survived by travelling around and selling his skills.

"Chivarly" as a set of beliefs were born rather late: and the most basic thing was a sense of , pardon the term, "caste": a miles is a member of a privileged elite that has different values than the priests and the merchants\commoners. Those values are first and foremost focused on combat and on the respect of their own caste: you don't kill or maim needlessly other knights. Think of something alike of a "Republic of Arms" instead of a "Republic of Letters". Regarding "nobility" "helping the poor" and what else, mostly gibberish if we follow the historical records. Killing and maiming the lower classes was quite acceptable (in warfare) and the loot, together with the drive to gain money from the capture of enemy knights\nobles was the main objective of most. Sum that with the need to have children to further your own family (education in the arts of war was kinda big).

The literary image we have of knights (that in D&D is more akin to the Paladin, truth be told) is simply a weird mixture of 19th century romanticism and poetical self-representation: knights were mostly warriors with an excellent sense of "class" and a great pride in their skills in warfare, upbringing and equipment. If we have to take a characteristic "typical" of knights from their perspective, it's generosity (but not prodigality): a good knight is generous with gifts and money, and expect to receive likewise from his master.

Pardon the typos, I'm a bit tired.

I use Roll20 to test some of my games. Might be running a game of Clay-Kickers at some point.

You're probably going to have to use late WW1 Germans or just Germans in great coats. Helmet won't quite be right but it'll probably be as close as you'll find

>a handy reference that I hope mediafire user will add to the naval folder.

No probs at all

mediafire.com/download/712ya5z1pybep3h/Ship Shapes (1942).pdf

Thanks user!

mediafire.com/download/w88rp1b70wc3xa5/Black Powder - Zulu!.pdf

Bradley vs BMP: Desert Storm 1991 (Osprey Duel 75)

In the mid-1960s, the Soviet Union unveiled the BMP, the first true infantry fighting vehicle. A revolutionary design, the BMP marked a significant departure from the traditional armoured personnel carrier, with a lower silhouette and heavier armament than rival APCs. One of the most fearsome light-armoured vehicles of its day, it caused great consternation on the other side of the Iron Curtain as the Americans scrambled to design a machine to rival the BMP. The result was the M2/M3 Bradley. These Cold War icons first clashed - not on the plains of Europe, but in southern Iraq during the Gulf War of 1991. Featuring specially commissioned full-colour artwork, this is the absorbing story of the origins, development and combat performance of the BMP and Bradley, culminating in the bloody battles of the Gulf War.

mediafire.com/download/ajsd2849skmbhhr/Osprey - DUE 075 - Bradley vs BMP.pdf

I mostly play 28mm. Been giving serious thought to starting in a smaller scale - probably WW2 or moderns (or SF) to start with, maybe some horse & musket. Rules shouldn't be an issue.

But I want one scale.

15mm is too big for what I want. 10mm is on the big side, and Pendraken do some lovely toys. There's also some good SF&F, but that's just a bonus for the purposes of this thread.

6mm is your bog-standard microarmour scale, and again, has plenty of cool ranges available.

3mm is a bit more limited, but still has enough for me - coverage isn't as great, but I prefer it to 6mm for some reason?

Help me pick a glorious master scale.

>The peasant army consisted of one hundred hundred according to Snorri

>While Snorri's description of the battle in the Heimskringla makes for epic reading, a lot of its grandeur most likely must be put down to the writer's taste for the epic.

Yeah, phrasing like that is like references to 40 days in old ME texts - it's a poetic thing that basically means "a lot" rather than a literal number.

If you want to do WWII/Moderns I'd go with either Micro or picoarmour scales because of those tasty big tank fights.

No. It also only applies to one item in your cart (so you can't buy a handful of cheap single figures) and only applies to Warlord Games' products.

I've never actually used one, I tend to get distracted and spend my nerd money elsewhere.

I wish other brush manufacturers (rosemary, perhaps, HINT HINT) did those handle shapes. I haven't used them much, but they're really comfy.

Then there's the question of how knighthood and chivalry was different to earlier European warrior cultures. Stuff like lifelong status, primogeniture and court politics.

Arab Historians of the Crusades is very good.

Sounds like you've essentially already picked 6mm

Man those Perry plastics look tasty painted up.

This is awesome. Thank-you, user!

I mean 6mm is probably your best bet just because, like you said, it has much more coverage than 3mm

I've never done WWII in anything smaller than 28mm, mostly because I like the idea of commanding a platoon rather than a whole battalion or anything bigger. However, I recently saw a blog posted here all about doing Napoleonics in 3mm-- it might not be as pretty as the larger scales, but for modelling realistically sized battles, it can't be beat

Newfag here, what would you recommend to someone wanting to play some 1914 skirmishes ? (Pic related, got some early war germans from hät on the painting table, and sorry for crappy picture)

Anyone pick up a copy of S&T 300 with Desert Fox Deluxe?

No pic I'm afraid.

Through Mud and Blood as for rules, or Bolt Action. And HaT figures? Mein neger.

Fuck yes, how much?

Here's the picture, hope it works this time

Yeah, it does. They are looking really nice.

Nice looking models user. I can't recommend any one of those rule sets as I have never tried them, but I have observed the WW1 version of Flames of War and it was received well by the players. Another option for you