WIP Work In Progress General

cloth+leather looks pretty good so far, did you paint 5 o' clock shadow on his face or is that the lighting in the photo?

If you did that, he looks pretty fucking solid. If you didn't, maybe you should

I tried to very lightly add some, didn't want to do much because the model has a goatee I didn't want to totally butcher

I bought the standard issue "Master" brand dual-action airbrush. Works pretty well as far as I can tell.

I sue a 0.2 mm needle, and from just trying it out a few minutes ago, it seems to work best with a couple drops of thinner.

Holy shit does it make basecoating easy, though. I've got it going on kind of thick because my control leaves a lot to be desired, but I got my black-primed Necrons nice and silver with minimal effort.

on the note of airbrushes

I have to clean mine out like every fucking time i want to change colors. Like complete disassembly. I'm thinning my paints, but I have no idea wtf im doing wrong here

I think it just comes with the territory. The paint seems to build up pretty thickly whenever I actually sit down and paint something.

Anyone have any experience with painting metallic black? I've seen videos of how to do it with blue/green/red, but many of those videos use a clear acryllic paint, which I can't find a black version of.

>gap in base significantly larger than base of mini
>refuses to glue in place

what trick am I missing?

Work a little GS in there to close up the hole.

I am starting work on an IF librarian, and I am seeing a lot of color schemes on the internets.

Is there an official color scheme? Are they supposed to have blue armor?

Still have a bit of touch up on the base, but hows he look? Glue is still drying, will take a better photo tomorrow

Again, Hamelin wyr 5006 if you want to check the official

Working on snakebite boarboys/warbikers because fuck paying $220 for a squad.

metal Hamelin looks so much nicer than the newer plastic one.
I think the black on the rat is a bit shiny and the white looks a bit messy.

I'm trying to prime my figures with skull white, but it just kind of makes the figures look like they are covered in chalk. Am I doing something wrong? The paint is 1 to 1 paint and water.

The problem is that it's not a primer.

>I am starting work on an IF librarian, and I am seeing a lot of color schemes on the internets.
>Is there an official color scheme? Are they supposed to have blue armor?

Originally, Librarians were often pictured as having *some* part of their armour painted blue, but not necessarily all of it. Beginning with Second Edition, it was generally accepted that codex chapter Librarians wore entirely blue armour with the exception of the shoulder pauldron that bore their chapter symbol. Other chapters, like the Blood Angels and Dark Angels, deviated slightly with respect to their more legendary characters (Mephiston and Ezekiel).

Another one from a different side. Does it work? Should I add shields? I feel like orks are smart enough to know wooden circles won't stop bullets.

you mean the dog?

I'm expecting the varnish to cut the gloss, but I just couldn't quite get the belly fur to look right, maybe thin some black and try and do a better blending job

Well shiet

Get a rattle can of duplicolor sandable primer. Cheap as chips and you can prime a solid 60 minis with it. Speaking from experience.

The thing is that you will never be able to remove that primer from the mini.

Almost done to a tabletop standard. Puppet wars Lady Justice crew for Malifaux. I need to convert her a totem and I'm good to go. Just want a generic all comers and kill stuff Guild list, isn't meant to be competitive just fun.

If I paint over this Skull White will it matter?

Strip that shit off first.

>I'm trying to prime my figures with skull white, but it just kind of makes the figures look like they are covered in chalk. Am I doing something wrong? The paint is 1 to 1 paint and water.

Lissen ta .

When they talk about priming or undercoating with Skull White, they are talking about days of yore when Citadel offered a rattlecan of Skull White paint. That your paint has a ratio mixed with water tells me you're trying to brush it on, and, as pointed out, this will not do you any good.

Why?

Just to avoid any texture issues.

Citadel spray isn't a primer, either. And it's marked up to hell.

Sweet thanks!

Just finished this guy.

Blue-highlighted deathwatch guy here. Here's my next marine. I had considerable difficulty as can be seen. Had the cloak looking good but fucked up the wash. The white on his shoulder pad was a pain too. I feel it looks okay as-is though, so I mostly just have the blue highlighting on the black and some silver to do yet. Would love advice, it's my first time doing tan robes like this.

Can librarians, in termy armor, be magnetized well?

I'd like to make the weapons replacable.

Back

Malifaux models look so good when people post them here it makes me want to buy some

>metal on fist and bolter are flat
>red needs highlights
>lenses too
>put some gloss on the bloodsplatter

Other than that, well done,very clean.

Thank you, I'm looking for advice like this. These are some of my first miniatures, so I'm trying to pick up on the little things.

>Why?

Lissen ta . If you don't believe me, see pic related.

>Citadel spray isn't a primer, either. And it's marked up to hell.

It is indeed marked up like crazy. Last time I bought a can it was $17.00. I can stomach buying the paint pots, but I have left in search of greener pastures for sprays - which, as you point out, should be *actual* primer.

If you want more nitpicks, I'm happy to supply.

>I can see where you couldn't reach with a drybrush on the base, by his legs
>Parchment on purity seals too similar a color to the armor.
>Pretty much everything but the main color could use sharper highlights
>Personal preference, but the bone could use more depth or texture, looks kinda like plastic

Extracted and trimmed the flash off of the 3rd round.

#0
>Original GW Harlequin Masks

#1
>First attempt; Green Stuff; 70/30

#2
>Second attempt; Milliput; 75/25

#3
>Third attempt; Green Stuff; 50/50

3rd attempt is my favourite due to the mixture, but also because I used less and got better results.

I will remake the worst ones with some 50/50 to have complete decent sets.

>Can librarians, in termy armor, be magnetized well?

Depending on which model you pick, it could be tough.

Excepting some FineCast replacements and those groovy old cookie-cutter Librarians from First Edition Space Hulk (pic related), every Terminator Librarian has been metal until the most recent incarnations, and they all carried storm bolters and force axes.

The older metal First and Second Edition ladz used a pin-and-socket shoulder assembly identical to their non-psychic counterparts. In fact, it's fairly common to see metal First Edition Terminator Librarians with mundane weapons, and regular squadboyz toting the force axe (or force rod or pointing Inquisitor fist with digital weapons should you happen upon a rare find). While you could magnetize these, I'd have to wonder what your ultimate goal would be, since there aren't a lot of other choices that are legal for a Librarian to purchase that wouldn't end up being a conversion anyway.

One of the later Terminator Librarians actually came with options such as combi-plasma guns and even warp-blasting palms - since it is now legal to save five points when arming him by not buying him a shoota at all. You're going to need to use small magnets or be willing to cut up a few models and work some greenstuff to make that look good, though.

Finally, there're the most recent plastic Terminator Librarians: Calistarius from Space Hulk, the generic Blood Angel Terminator Librarian available in a blister, and the codex Terminator Librarian. Plastic is easier to cut/drill than metal and, while you'll still be using those smaller magnets, there's quite a bit of room to convert - especially if you pick the codex Librarian. His force rod and the hand that holds it is a separate bit, and he comes with both a storm bolter and an outstretched hand bit for the other arm.

>Codex Librarian
>His force rod and the hand that holds it is a separate bit, and he comes with both a storm bolter and an outstretched hand bit for the other arm.

Pic related.

It doesn't come with the territory. Empty your cup, rinse, backflush. Repeat until clean. You really only need to disassemble about once a month. if you're backflushing regularly.

One sec and I will post a pic of what I have, and what I'd like to be able to switch out.

Anyone have a good guide on recasting? Or at least good experiences or tips?

I'm planning on outfitting my eldar all in these helmets, but the only good ones are on the dark eldar reaver jetbikes or this one from the venom pilot, which there's only one of.

I'm not shilling out a couple hundred bucks for one bit apiece online.

If I had emotions I would be offended.

Hey guys, I'm looking to convert this into Arthas Menethil from W3 for a death/Vampire Counts army. I have no experience with greenstuff or conversions, with this in mind, where would you start.

Essentially, I would need to give him the proper shoulder pieces, those are massive.
Add skulls to his knees.
Add some fur to his boots.

What do?

I do have that model, what I would like to be able to do is to magnetize so that I can interchange the items indicated.

I figured I would use a magnet on the arm, and sheet metal on the hands. The weapons that didn't come in the kit are from B@C, but they are regular SM bits, so I'm not sure they fit right.

As an aside, does anyone have a good guide on painting cloaks?

I wish multi part kits had more variation.
I want a range where each kit feels like a carefully crafted handful of a bits box.

You're better off magnetizing just the arm and torso, and using extra arms for the other weapons.

excess fiddly parts make for bad results.

Ask this guy.

coolminiornot.com/332448

Sculpting the fur is easy; just make a worm of greenstuff around the top of his greaves and poke the texture in with a tool. Skulls on the knees, you could press mold something on. Sculpting plate armor is a bitch.

Why? I like uniformity and I love these helmets. I'm not going to buy 25+ venoms just to supply heads for my dudes. I'm going to do the smart thing and make them myself.

Well, I only have extra SM arms. I don't have extra terminator arms.

I'll see what I can do though

Different anons, by the way.

Baal Predator has come along well, just thought I might as if I should do some more extreme highlights on the tank, specifically on the corners? Tracks still haven't been painted still as I'm still working on the sponsons.

I.... what?

I just posted making 3 sets of harlequin masks and 4 posts later you ask if anyone knows how to do exactly what was just done lol.

And then I just don't even really understand these two comments at all.

Ignore the shitty work because this may have literally been the first model I ever painted, I haven't gone back to fix because I am not playing UM.

Does this color scheme work for the blue sections of a librarian, you think?

Sorry I must be too tired to focus. Your heads are interesting, but I was talking more like a silicone mold with a resin recast. Not trying to steal your thunder, guess its just a weird coincidence that we are on the same topic at the same time.

How's my tall scale space wolf looking? Going to finish the shading tomorrow and then do the highlights. Anything I should/can do to fix stuff?

Christ, I would tell you but honestly that model is a clusterfuck.

>THIN
>use less shade. a lot less
>shake your shades
>T H I N
>white needs several (THIN) coats to show up properly
> JESUS CHRIST THIN YOUR PAINTS

strip em and start over

...

Alright /wip/ I'm new to basing, but I had some success tonight. Riding this wave of hubris I have created the smallest contact point that my model has to be attached by now, what do?

I haven't pinned a model before, but I think that's the answer.

>Does this color scheme work for the blue sections of a librarian, you think?

I think it *would*, but Librarians can't get Cataphract armour.

Yes, I have learned a lot since this abomination.

Was literally right out of the B@C box, for the board game, straight out of the pot.

I was referring mainly to the blue, I like using calagar for UM.

Just proof that I am not quite that horrible anymore, two of my latest.

looks cool user. i'd recommend a shield as the model looks more posed to hold one. metal would be best over wood.

if this is for 40k i wouldn't use the fantasy helms just IMO. metal shoulderpad is fine

from does pic related help my moldlines? also thanks to those who replied to last thread.

Well. Tbh senpai still pretty bad. Idk how you're getting such messy effects but I think it's because you're layering too much and maybe using too thick a paint.

Are you using the GW paints?

I would recommend giving up on edge highlighting until you have a much steadier hand. I hate when GW and friends recommend this technique to newfags because it's fucking hard and fucking time consuming and looks like total shit when done wrong.

Imo, do a solid base layer (multiple coats of thin paints if you have to). Wash the model, then drybrush. Then pick out the details such as the gun and pauldron edges, eyes, etc, then wash them, then highlight. You'll get much better results.

Watch some of Duncans youtube videos and watch how he does the techniques. Pay particular attention to how he moves the brush.

youtube.com/watch?v=g9HzqHVg1uE&list=PLEaPE4sLDA7s-26V0v6SepDFiznb3y6hx&index=31

Watch that one. I know it's red but you can just change the red colours out for a few different yellow ones.

Don't give up, you can get really awesome results really quick once you do more.

Incoming boom from the old thread, grot-bombs GO!

What is a good drybrush color for IF?

Image is a bit small, but I don't have access to the original right now. Anyway, after much trial and error I found that the best way to do their robes is:

basecoat with Zandri Dust
layer with thinned Ushabti Bone
a second layer on the raised folds
1:1 ushabti bone with pallid wych flesh on the top of the folds
edge highlights with pallid wych flesh
extreme highlight with white scar

Or skip most of those steps because you can get away with just base, 1 layer and highlight. Point is, washes aren't always the asnwer, especially not with DA robes.

Wait. Are you painting straight on plastic?

I...I think you need to read some tutorials and actually follow what is suggested by them...

Any other opinions here?

Im getting a bunch of skeletons that are posable and I can add weapons too but I want to make spears swords and bows for them, how do I make spears and bows from scratch?

the kit doesn't come with any weapons?

sounds kind of odd. All the plastic kits I can think of came at least with a few choices.

Anyway.
You can start by using wire for the spears and bows. You can bend the wire over a cup or something like that and then mark where to cut, so all your bows are gonna look the same.
Swords a re a little harder to build from scratch, but still doable. Get some plastic card, about 1.5 to 2mms thick and cut out the basic shape before sanding the edge on a piece of sandpaper.
Then sandwich the blade between two other short strips to make the crossguard.
You can also use a wire as amature and use sandable putty like milliput to work form that. This has the advantage that you get a round handle and the whole thing becomes a lot more sturdy, but imo is only really worth the effort if you are building a master.

That said you should definitely look into historical minis too. You can get brass spears, shields and all sorts of weapons for them too. Brass spears should only be a few pennies, metal cast bits will usually be a bit more expensive.

Another way to get a hold of bits like those might be to scour ebay for those pieces. Fireforge games and Perry for example often supply their plastic kits with more than one weapon choice. I don't know how big the market is for historical plastic bits, but GW should be easy to find there.

Like, just, put less paint on the brush. Problem solved. That's it. You have good control just way too much paint on your brush. Especially for highlights you should barely have any paint on there.

They come with a axe and a shield, ofc they are boring and generic skeletons but I wanna work them into a not tomb kings army for the game dragon rampant.
My idea is to stamp shields from milliput and make spears / khopesh for the warriors themselves. The main bulk of my guys are going to be spearmen anyways, so once I find a way to get spears (Fireforge games look very attractive) its gonna be somewhat smooth sailing.

>I wanna work them into a not tomb kings army for the game dragon rampant
You should definitely check out the online store of crocodile games then.
They have an entire game based on egypt and a bits section.
Might be a bit more expensive than building them yourself, but a hell of a lot faster and probably better in terms of quality.

Yeah Ive looked into those guys and they are quiet cool but buying from outside Europe is going to be very expensive for me.
If my idea for making shields turns out to be shit, Ill be rolling with those guys.

Yeah I get that.
If you are in Europe though, there are two shops with an online presence you can order from.
I know from personal experience that the guys from Battlefield Berlin can order you something specific, if they don't carry it already, without a problem.
They're my go-to guys for most of my orders.

I can't remember the yellow colours but after washing just dry brush with the first paint you used.

And the other guys?

blackpyramid.co.uk/

don't know anything about them though.

holy fuck! its you! that guy who needs to strip his entire pile of shit army!

KNIGHT-user
N
I
G
H
T
-
A
N
O
N

defanatly!

uriel yellow.

Some historical miniatures manufacturers sell separate wire spears for their models. Maybe try those?

Wait, is this churchguy?

Started a tyranid army recently and just love the behemoth colour scheme, what do guys think? Im going to add green to the tubes on his arms and fix his theeth

Honestly, green sounds like a terrible idea. It will clash hard with the red. You'd be much better off with dark purple tubing. Look at how you've painted the swords and the head. That's where the eye is drawn towards. You really don't want the eye to be drawn towards a bunch of green tubes.

this guy looks like hes having lots of fun

good scheme, the green will really bring it together. maybe use a glaze or something to try to blend the blue and the black together? i think you should've used a darker blue instead of that light one, and then just used the light blue on the extreme edges