How do these two look? Anything I could have done better?
Lincoln Watson
Requesting AL painting guides. I misplaced my local copies
Ryan Gray
Think you got some brown on the right's left arm. They look pretty good, picture is out of focus though.
Caleb Roberts
So I got some cold one riders and naturally plan to get some dark elf cold ones for a swap, but, there are only five in the box to my seven, what do?
Brody Adams
is that plane from the specialist game thing GW did?
Thanks, I'll try to get better pictures and sort things out when they arrive
Aiden Campbell
Part 1/2
Airbrush with thinned Tamiya Gunmetal (thin all Tamiya colours with Tamiya X-20A Thinner)
Airbrush from top of model with thinned Tamiya Flat Aluminum
Mix Tamiya Clear Green with Tamiya Clear Blue in 10/90 mix and airbrush over the model in 2 light, thin coats
Airbrush armour panels with Tamiya Clear Blue. Blend from middle of figure down, so the strongest blue colour is at the bottom of the armour panels
Airbrush from the middle upwards with Tamiya Clear Green, so strongest green colour is at the top of the armour panels
Using an airbrush, blend a highlight on the highest panels (head, shoulder pads, top of backpack) with Tamiya Flat Aluminum with a tiny amount of very thinned down Tamiya Sky Blue
Apply thinned coat of Tamiya Clear Blue over the highlight and blend into the surrounding area
Silver: basecoat with Citadel Leadbelcher, highlight with Vallejo Model Air Steel and wash with Citadel Nuln Oil
Chipping: hit edges with Citadel Leadbelcher in striking motions and highlight with Citadel Ironbreaker
Originally he'd said to use Citadel Leadbelcher and Ironbreaker in a 50/50 mix for step 1, but now he says to do all the airbrushing with Tamiya paints and all the brushwork with the Citadel and Vallejo paints.
I'm pretty sure he hasn't tried the new FW airbrush paints (FYI, they have clear paints now) but I'm going to get the Tamiya paints I don't already have and see how the Badger Minitaire Ghost Tints compare - I really like the Ghost Tint Blue and Plasma Fluid, which is a nice, vibrant blue-green.
Noah Powell
Part 2/2
ARMOR 1. AIRBRUSH WITH THINNED LEAD BELCHER/ IRON BREAKER (50/50 MIX) 2. AIRBRUSH FROM TOP OF MODEL WITH THINNED RUNFANG STEEL 3. MIX A LITTLE TAMIYA CLEAR GREEN WITH TAMIYA CLEAR BLUE (25/75 MIX) AND AIRBRUSH OVER THE MODEL IN 2 COATS 4. AIRBRUSH ARMOUR PANELS WITH TAMIYA CLEAR BLUE. BLENDING FROM MIDDLE OF FIGURE DOWN, SO THE STRONGEST BLUE COLOUR IS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PANNELS 5. AIRBRUSH FROM THE MIDDLE UPWARDS WITH TAMIYA CLEAR GREEN 6. USING AN AIRBRUSH BLEND A HIGHLIGHT ON THE HIGHEST PANNELS (HEAD, SHOULDER PADS, TOP OF BACKPACK) WITH RUNEFANG STEEL WITH A TINY AMOUNT OF LOTHERN BLUE, EXTREMELY THINNED DOWN. 7. WITH A BRUSH, APPLY SEVERAL THINNED COAT OF TAMIYA CLEAR BLUE OVER THE HIGHLIGHT AND BLEND INTO THE SURROUNDING AREA. 8. USING A BLUE GLAZE OR WASH, DRAG DOWN THE WHOLE MODEL ALLOWING IT TO SETTLE IN THE DEEPEST AREAS.
SILVER 1. BASECOAT WITH LEADBELCHER 2. WASH WITH NULN OIL 3. HIGHLIGHT WITH LEADBELCHER IN STRIKING MOTIONS TO CREATED CHIPPED AND WEATHER APPEARANCE 4. HIGHLIGHT WITH IRONBREAKER
COLORS NEEDED - LEADBELCHER (GW) - IRONBREAKER (GW) - RUNFANG STEEL (GW) - LOTHERN BLUE (GW) - GUILLIMAN BLUE (GW) - NULN OIL (GW) - CLEAR GREEN (TAMIYA)
Ryan Lee
Yeah. It's from their (currently) discontinued game, Epic, which was a 6mm scale wargame. I think it's superior to 40k but it's goddamn impossible to find people to play against. That plane in particular is a Marauder bomber.
Nicholas Garcia
Do I thin everything or do I just thin after priming?
Lucas Rogers
Oh yeah, I recently bought a bunch of Ork Epic stuff, looks really cool but I'll probably never get around to painting them. I was thinking it was Aeronautica Imperialis
James Brown
Is this what a primed white model is supposed to look like? Am I fucking doing this right?
Carson Cruz
Thanks.
Wyatt Cooper
Forgot pic
Joseph Young
Gaunt Summoner from Silver Tower finished this evening.
Christian Long
There's only one official Herald pf Nurgle model, and the official GW GUO is fucking awful, so I've started working on making my own. I want to do three heralds and at least one GUO before I'm done.
This is the beginnings of the first. I'm kind of shit at sculpting, so the milliput is sort of shit, but I figure I can go in with actual greenstuff later tonight and tidy up the seams, add sores/boils, and generally improve on it before starting on the next one.
Gabriel Morgan
If you're priming by hand (ie. brushing it on, then you may want to thin it a tiny bit), but most priming is fine without thinning, but yes after the primer everything needs a little thinning, with dry-brushing being an exception.
Don't overdo it on the thinning though, a little goes a long way in most cases.
You want to work in relatively thin, smooth layers.
This may mean that you sometimes need multiple coats to get good coverage, but the nice smooth layers make it worth it in the end.
Your model will look a lot better if your paints were properly thinned.
That primer did not land properly by the looks of it, ran into the recesses, rather than settling on top. Not sure what might cause that though.
Easton Nelson
Side view.
I think the barrel looks a little bland on its own, and had I thought of it at the time, the nurgling would probably look better atop the keg.
I figure I'll add a little nurgling trying to help lift the keg later tonight, but I still feel like it's missing detail.
Jacob Powell
What he said Also, epic meme aside, fix those mold lines , so many of them there
Daniel Rogers
Did you prime with fucking thinned acrylic paint? If you are gonna brush prime, do it with gesso instead. Starting off a fresh paint job with thick brushstrokes and bits of dried shit and hair is doing you final paint no favors. Also mold lines wtf. Spend 10 bucks on some fine files or super glue emery cloth to sprue to get those hard to scrape moldlines.
Gavin Ramirez
I used Ceramite White 1 to 1 water.
Robert Butler
Added some barbed wire to his beat stick and drilled a hole in the barrel of his OG auto pistol.
Nicholas Thomas
Ceramite White isn't a primer though... It's a base paint, which means it covers well over a primer, but shouldn't be used on naked plastic.
You may want to invest in a can of actual white primer or pick up some white Gesso like suggests.
Jack Brooks
That's not a primer. That's just watered down, white paint.
Get a an actual primer.
Elijah Allen
Ceramite White isn't primer dude. Primer has a different composition than paint that promotes adhesion. Get some Gesso or Imperial Primer if you want to prime by hand, or a can of Krylin primer or Army Painter primer if you want to do it the easy way.
Michael Gutierrez
Then maybe I'm confused, what do primer bottles say on the front of them? I figured that "Base" was primers. I also have some that say "Foundation" on them but this is my first time doing this and am extremely lost when it comes to paint types.
Ryan Jenkins
The only primer that GW sells in pots is their "Imperial Primer" which I think is a really dark grey, it's one of their Technicals. You don't want that as a starting point if you intend to paint your models white afterwards though, that's going to be hard work.
As for what primers you could get:
Army Painter sells spray cans of primer in various colours (most colours, matching GWs base range for the most part), so does Vallejo (though only black, grey and white).
If you're in the US then Krylon sandable primer is a cheap and good alternative I believe.
Vallejo also offers Polyurethane primers in normal paint pots (these are for airbrushing or normal brush), available in quite a few colours, including white.
The Gesso mentioned by others is usually available at better craft stores and dries to a hard thin finish, and in terms of how much you get for the money this may be one of the better options.
Xavier Rodriguez
Pic's out of focus but they look pretty good. Maybe a better gradient for the highlights, the bright blue looks a bit stark against the dark blue on their clothes. Good job though.
Aaron Peterson
I posted this in a few threads a long time ago, I haven't worked on it in quite a while though. It's a Cadian flag quilt. I'll post a few pics, this is just when it was in its early stages. Pictured is my cat. He is a good servant of the Emperor, but oversteps his bounds and believes his importance to be greater than it is.
Bentley Edwards
Meant to post this one here. Got a couple more incoming anyway though.
Noah Baker
This was right after I stitched the Aquila on (got a closeup coming in a minute) but before I stitched on the silver wings in the middle.
Charles Kelly
Closeup of the Aquila. Such a fiddly little pain to cut out and stitch up properly.
Logan Brown
This hurr is what I'm going for as an end result. Not sure what I'm gonna do for the numbers, copying the flag and all its' campaign worlds and whatnot directly seems kind of lame but it'd also feel empty and bare if I just skipped adding all that stuff.
What do you fellas think? Toss some ideas my way. I haven't worked on this in a long time and I'd like to pick it back up.
Gabriel Parker
Another version of the same flag but with legible text
John Young
The primer makes the paint stick. Same as for cars and walls.
Brandon Hernandez
That is either a very small felinid or a very large quilt. Either way, looks like good fun and you're getting there.
Though in the images you posted the big wings, the gate and the textbox underneath have a black line separating their colors from the color under it.
Ryder Wright
anyone have the how to paint gems picture?
James Martin
Anyone who sleeps in your guest bed will assume you're a nazi.
Robert Jenkins
7x8 feet, it's pretty big and he's a fucking huge cat. I noticed the black outlines too but I'm not especially worried about them. I think the separate pieces contrast well enough to do without.
>implying anyone besides me is gonna sleep with my awesome blanket
Jacob Gonzalez
I found this, can I use it to prime?
Nathaniel Nguyen
I am king of forgetting pictures today
David Howard
I'm trying to get some metallic blue colors with sparkle and depth, similar to some of the nicer paintjobs you can get on cars (and, subsequently, model cars, pics related) because the flat metallic you're likely to find on the average mini looks shit (e.g. grey knights) and I hate NMM. However, I just can't find a paint combination which seems to do the job.
I've tried many combinations of ModelMaster blue metallic paints (Arctic), Tamiya blue metallic paints (X13), MM and Tamiya clear/glaze blues, MM and Tamiya metallics, variations on brands and amount of thinner, and even tossed GW into the mix. Typically my results are:
- Very disperse "sparkle" in a decent amount of "depth" under very bright light (MM Arctic Metallic) - Flat metallic (Tamiya X13, anything mixed in-palette) - Flat or slight "sparkle" metallic under laquer (clear/glaze layered over metallic)
Is 28mm too small to achieve a nice sparkle and depth similar to pic related (or in RL automobiles)? Or maybe it's impossible with brushed paint and I'm better off using spray (whether airbrush and/or simply spray can e.g. TS-19+TS-38 as pic related)?
Halp Veeky Forums. You're my only hope.
Tyler King
Of course I reference "pic related" and forget to upload the damn pic.
Tyler Carter
Is priming not the same as undercoating? Complete noob here btw.
Gavin Brown
Yep
Colton Ortiz
Not necessarily.
Primer is used on the bare material of the model to provide a surface that other paint can easily stick to.
Undercoating is painting on a layer of paint whose colour helps or sets up the next layer / colour for success.
For example I prime with a yellow AP spray primer that means when I start putting on the topcoat of (extremely thin) Yriel Yellow I don't have to fight against a black primer for coverage. For me my primer doubles as an undercoat.
For the gold pieces on my Imperial Fists I actually undercoat (over the spray primed yellow) with a brown metallic (Balthasar Gold). Once the brown has dried I put on the gold (VGC Polished Gold).
Evan Edwards
I see, thanks.
Christopher Robinson
I didn't like the Tank Commander's pose and the body didn't really slot into the tank's hatch very well. So I made my own using CCS parts! I can open my different tanks' hatches and take him in and out as needed. Plus, he's spotting targets for the gunner, which is WAY more useful than just yelling and standing outside the hatch!
What do you think of his skin color? My troops as a whole go for a darker, greasier, I've-been-crawling-through-mud-and-haven't-seen-a-shower-in-weeks look to them, but this guy is particularly dark. It doesn't need to look like the godly detailed and highlighted figures we typically see on this board; It just needs to look like a plausible skin color.
Angel Murphy
i'm calling this done
Andrew Mitchell
How could I give this bike a bit more zazz? Right now it's very grubby and it doesn't 'pop' as much as I'd like it to.
Elijah Moore
Try some brighter colors. A nice contrasting yellow on the spotlight and the eye of the front plate could help.
Cooper Ward
>What do you think of his skin color? My troops blah blah go for a darker, greasier, blah blah blah look to them blah blah blah blah
Yeah, looks fine.
Ryder Baker
truck balls on the back, christmas lights wrapped around most of it
Ryan Young
...
Ethan Perry
now we're getting somewhere!
Ethan Rogers
Actually the truck balls are genius...Actually its not but human heads hanging from the back like truck balls would be cool!
Dylan Harris
fixed
Luis Robinson
Nice GS work on them balls. Must have used a lot of petroleum jelly. What ratio did you use?
Michael Edwards
Counts as power klaw, a power lance/spear thing
Ian Diaz
And half the squad. Gonna build the other 5 and see if these things really are good on the tabletop
Eli Hernandez
Give him a charging grip on the lance
James Smith
Posted before looking at the second image, disregard
Jayden Perez
You should try using a wet pallate so you can control the thinness of your paint. Your paint is too thick almost everywhere.
You might want to consider a different color scheme; white is very difficult and having white shoulder and tabbards is going to be difficult to pull off.
Your blue (besides from being too thick) would benifit from a wash and a highlight. Use some of the technique that you used on the tyrannid trophy.
Good first effort. You will improve quickly from here.
Anthony Wilson
If only it gave you a bonus to initiative it'd be perfect!
Isaac Cruz
I think the flag is cool and your cat is 90% fluff and 10% cat.
Dominic James
At least they have a decent chance of surviving 1 round of combat. T5 and 4+ is great on paper.
Henry Jenkins
Finished the crimson fist. Really happy with how it turned out, was probably the most fun model I've painted so far.
David Reyes
working on a birthday present for a friend. definitely going to give the red a matte finish when the fig is complete.
Mason Campbell
I want to do some kitbashing to make an original wight king Any ideas on models I can skellify
Jeremiah Hall
>anyone have the how to paint gems picture?
This one?
Adam Wilson
Looks good! Could use a drill to the bolter, though.
Levi Clark
Yep that's what I was looking for, found it earlier but thanks anyways. Used it for this Thanks, and yeah I need to find a tool to drill them some time. Is there a cheap one I can get at a store somewhere?
Caleb Baker
>Finished the crimson fist. Really happy with how it turned out, was probably the most fun model I've painted so far.
I know I pointed out in a previous thread that the Crimson Fists lad you've got there is very specifically a Blood Angels Sergeant (came with the old Second Edition Blood Angels Devastator Squad), but damn if he doesn't make a fine Crimson Fist!
Carter Cook
haha yeah, I was sad when I found that out but I had already done all the work putting him together so I said fuck it and made him a crimson fist anyways. I already have enough things in my army that would make lore-abiders mad so it's whatever.
Samuel Ross
>things in my army that would make lore-abiders mad so it's whatever
Some people take that kind of rage a little too far. If I have Mk II and Mk III suits that have somehow survived to do battle again in M39, don't you think they might have swapped out for newer style power supply?
Robert Powell
>human heads hanging from the back like truck balls
Do it user
Jace Morales
Thanks, user. I'd give him at least 20% cat though. He's pretty big. Pic related. I'm just shy of 6'3 for reference.
Chase Ramirez
Do you have melta or plasma rounds for that thing, or only frag and krak. Does it "Get Hot" on a roll of '1'?
Anthony King
I love those marines though, especially that one-eyed one. It's hard enough to even see a Johnny for sale and that one looks rarer
Blake Long
What is this and where did you get it? If it's not supposed to be a somewhere in time Eddie it's a spot on substitute.
Carson Cruz
What are the best citadel mounted models for putting a Space Marine torso onto a mount? Preferably a horse but exotic stuff is fine too.Trying to find a cool conversion for my Captain on a bike.
Alexander Phillips
Lovely fluffyfluff :3
Cooper Hernandez
Taking the Taurox Challenge-- just started with aribrush of Karak Stone...
I need your guy's collective wisdom: Has anyone left their models in a case, say the standard Citadel case, in a hot car? Like really hot-- Pheonix Arizona 120 degrees hot? Will the paint melt off? I'm scared, what do? I'm going to Pheonix and I NEED to leave my shit in the car
Connor Gonzalez
it was produced as a presale item by the dude who's been running a lot of the recent oldhammer styled kickstarters (pantheon of chaos, space raiders, etc). it wasnt on general sale for ip reasons i think, which as you say are pretty glaring. was happy to find a suitable city streets resin base strewn with trash to complete the album cover look
Jordan Peterson
Doing a colour scheme test so it's looking super rough right now, gotta do this for 6 more dudes.
God help me
Ryan Hill
looks sweet dude
Alexander Butler
i'ma need a finished product pic, m8, that's a badass sculpt
Jaxon Nguyen
So did the rest of the Dakini Tacbot today and I realized as I was going to prime the head that it literally doesn't have any of the detail on the right side of the face. Like the on left it has some grooves and the depression for the eye, and the right just ... doesn't. I did as best I could in painting a neat eye but I'm a little disappointed in the sculpt.
Tyler Reyes
For someone who's absolute garbage at painting, how are these? Ranger's visage isn't quite done, gonna clean the green with some leadbelcher.
Wyatt Roberts
not long after i first started I mocked up some cadian 'veterans' with some spare parts and came out with these monstrosities. after having them sit in a drawer for a year I decided I'd paint them for the hell of it. look forward to seeing some zany updates.
Julian Collins
the green glow is my favourite part
Nathaniel King
>I love those marines though, especially that one-eyed one.
Thanks. It's one of the four ancient Artificer Armours Citadel produced during the Rogue Trader era. I own, but have not painted, the other three. I didn't think a Mk I Thunder Suit in a front line battle squad made any sense, so I used that lad instead.
Ethan Nguyen
I meant that I'll clean the green off the face. How's the rest of it? Please send help
Kevin White
>I need your guy's collective wisdom: Has anyone left their models in a case, say the standard Citadel case, in a hot car? Like really hot-- Pheonix Arizona 120 degrees hot? Will the paint melt off? I'm scared, what do? I'm going to Pheonix and I NEED to leave my shit in the car
Potentially lethal destruction, user.
Try this experiment: get your infrared thermometer gun (c'mon, I *know* you have one for checking the air coming out of your AC vents at home) and point it into your car after it's been sitting in the hot sun all day. Here in Texas it's been around the 100 degree mark, and my car's interior was up to about 185 degrees.
Back in the days of Third Edition, I had a friend who was a Space Wolf player who left his Land Raider Crusader in his car. For those not familiar with the old 3rd Ed version, the hurricane bolter sponsons and assault cannons were *metal*. He came back to his car and found that the assault cannons had gotten so hot that they warped the plastic at the top and fell through into the interior of the tank!
Carter Reyes
You should paint the other 3 sometimes desu. I love the second-left one, looks like a mix between chaos and adeptus arbites
Henry Ross
>two power fists with fingers too chunky to work the grenades/auspexes/pistol on his belt
Gavin Clark
sometimes the symbolism can be more powerful than the weapons themselves
Asher Cook
Behold the Crimson Fister
Jason Williams
hahaha I was just thinking this as I finished him earlier, I was imagining him just throwing them off like boxing gloves