WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

Desert or snow would offer up the most contrast, imo. Urban might make the whole mini too grey with that black armor

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I ordered some knights from this random polish company and they're surprisingly well detailed and quite nice

maybe orange/black camo pattern?

Very Polish-ed, hm?.

Seriously, though, resize that pic.

johnny for president

A dark red in the recesses with a dark purple/indigo for the main color would look nice on the chest.

Those are neat-looking models, what are they?

they're Malifaux models, Arcane effigy and Brutal effigy.

When do you use drybrush instead of layering?

Noob here. What's the effect of Glaze? Should I use it in every miniature?

Bomb-junka now about 75% done, boxing complete now the deff rolla needs finishing a then it's rivet time.

And the other angle.

I'm liking this, it's nice you've not gone overboard with the random junk, looks Orky and practical at the same time.

>No WIP thread on Veeky Forums?!?

?

Whenever you want. There is no hard and fast rule, just as there is no right and wrong.
It's a stylistic decision mostly.
Certain surfaces like fur or scales really lend themselves to it though and especially when you are painting an army you want to save time wherever possible.

In the end it's up to you though.
As a rule of thumb:
Drybrushing is quick and messy, layering is slow and clean - if done right.
If you are just laying down the first layer on a heavily textured mini or painting the fatigues on your IG before you move on to the next step being quick and messy can be pretty great though.

A glaze tints the colour covered, it can for instance be used to help a blended transition pull together better, or to strengthen a colour (something you see when painting IF yellow for instance).

Should you use it on all models? No probably not. Glazes have their time and place, but aren't required for a model to look good.

and here are the pages on layering.

While I'm at it.

Be aware that people tend to use the terms glazes, washes, feathering etc somewhat loosely and sometimes mean different things.

For example another common way to refer to glazing to talk about using a very thin transparent coat of paint to successively build up a smooth transition. Feathering is a certain way of applying that paint, though it's the same principle.

Thanks. Very helpful.

Yes I haven't gotten around to that yet, but I plan to.

No, wolf grey primer.

when you want a more dirty surface.
works also on metal surface

Almost done!

Whats the stat on this thing?

Is there a quick way to paint Dark Angels with glazes and washes?

Guys, I'm trying my hand with some NMM on this canoness a dude asked me to paint.

Is it too bad? What can I make better?

The effect is there but the problem with NMM is that it needs to be squeaky clean to work well.

Pretty good from my lowly nob experienced point of view. Seeing silver and not gold or blueish NMM is actually quite rare to mine own eyes.

my friend asked for a darker metal -- he wants to use her as an Inquisitor for his IG + eldar corsairs + Inqui fuckfest.

So I'm just doing whatever strikes me fancy, trying out new stuff, hoping he'll be happy

Not really. Just base Caliban Green and drybrush Hellion Green, then wash with BielTan Green.

painting three colour ambush camo is suffering on big tanks.

Can't wait to finish, weather and get her on a board though.

Pillow shading :(

Check this out.
This shows a few basic painting techniques used to paint space marine models.
The DA in this example is drybrushed, but if you substitute a lighter green and a dark green wash in the BA tutorial you should get something you can use as well.

Another pretty cool tutorial that should be pretty easy to follow for quick results is this
fromthewarp.blogspot.de/2012/09/how-to-paint-dark-angels-fast-and-dark.html

Same principle, but instead of doing it over your primer coat or a base color he used two different sprays to give the minis some preshading before going in with the washes.

very nice painting.
Love the look in his eyes.

Rare to see Infinity minis painted to a standard like this. Angel Giraldes sets the bar so high few people can compete.

Thanks for the kind words. I've really been enjoying the infinity models lately coming from primarily a warhammer background. Mr giraldez really gives somthingm to aspire to!

looking good and no complaining, its not suffering at all. Seeing the hanomags i am quite sure you are using warlord game models. Have some inspiration from my 1/72 Tiger2. Also what is going on with that front fender? If you are doing a 28mm model paint the lensen of the commander turret. Also wash the whole bloody tank. I dont like the "erika" detail its super cliche. Get an MG42 from your bit box and attach it to the turret ring for bonus points (use a paperclip?)

Painting tanks is 100x faster and easier then a infantry model

What a shitlord

Some of you might remember this dude from a few weeks back.
World Eaters Champion on his way to daemon-princehood at the end of the Shadow Crusade. His name is Skullbane because he follows Khorne and he's a big guy

5 done. 37 to go.

aww man he looks very nice.

It is a very emotional feeling, to witness the birth of a miniature like that -- and then realize I might spend too much time in these threads

Traitor legions are making serious gains.

> This model may only be used when Heavy Metal by Sammy Hagar is playing.

Dark undercoat done.

Actually here is an pic of my WIP germans and the hano + hertzer i own. Looking at Hertzer i should have thinned my paint more. Also contemplating getting another hano or 2

28mm (1/56) from Warlord indeed. I started naming all my tanks, and after my friends and regular opponents started naming tanks after their commander in GuP I joined in.

I will get around to the lenses, and will eventually was the entire vehicle after weathering.

The main body (including the fender) are still to be fixed. This is actually me fixing up this tank after it sat half painted in a box for the last 6 months. Might be using it to sponge some ISU-152 shots tomorrow so thought it would be worth it. The Warlord model is not the best. The skirts are metal while the hull is resin, and both have minor faults.

Not so sure on the pintle mounted MG-42. It's one of those details that tends to snap off at the smallest opportunity.

Also pulled out a few of the other tanks to.

Wow, that's really nice. I like that the chainsword looks normal-sized in his hands since he's fucking HUGE. THose things are out of proportion as fuck.

But hey, GW.

>This model may only be used when Heavy Metal by Sammy Hagar is playing.

How about "The Mob Rules" by Black Sabbath - same movie, even!

youtube.com/watch?v=3__NN16uoXk

Fun Veeky Forums fact: Chris Achilleos's painting of Taarna from Heavy Metal also graced the cover of White Dwarf issue #77!

Got the captain, Theron, finished.

>hano + hertzer
> Looking at Hertzer
Hetzer

Really wish i had more time to paint these days.

Done the skin at least, gonna work on base coating the armour and cloths

Aww, I'm feeling emotional too now user...

His favourite pastime /is/ ripping and tearing...

Agreed, to either of these :)

He is indeed a very big guy. Pic related is a slightly-blurry size comparison with a support squaddie

Should I get plastic wraithguard or metal wraithguard?

Plastic. I have both and prefer the plastics. Fill their base better, chips less.

The metals have no advantage. They don't look better that is for sure.

The metal ones are cool but hella expensive when you find them and super mono-pose. You're likely better off with the plastic ones in case you want more than one pose.

>Should I get plastic wraithguard or metal wraithguard?

As an old grog whose Eldar army is almost entirely First and Second Edition metal, I would *totally* go for plastic Wraithguard. The old metal ones

* Were meant to stand on 25mm bases, and their poses reflect this lack of real estate
* Only have Wraithcannons as armament
* Consist of two parts - body and head - making conversion of any kind challenging

Well it's not like the plastic ones are very conversion friendly. I wanted to have a squad carrying wraithlord ghostglaives around but the hands are all either holding something or curled in a fist.

and so, my journey of trying to make my own Throgg has begun. This is for the base skeleton on his foot as for now, I'll add greenstuff on him soon

Noble Knight Games are recasters, purchase at your peril.

So now that I've got a very basic understanding of painting, before I try painting more complex models and ruining them as well how do I remove super glue? These are just Dark Angels from the Dark Vengeance kit painted how I want my Blood Angels to look but since they're like 3-4 pieces that can snap together and be taken apart it wasn't as difficult painting them. However with something glued together holding a rifle across its chest I'm fucked. How removed glue?

Super glue can be frozen and snapped unless it's special super glue that is resistant to cold. Freezing makes it brittle.

They're plenty conversion friendly, you're just not going to get it super easy like space marines.

While it is a shame, you should be able to easily cut the curled fingers off and resculpt them. They're pretty basic robot segmented sausage fingers.

It can't be that difficult to make them into zambato fighters. (though I'm not sure how they'll drink the frenzy drink)

That doesn't sound very noble

I heard of that before and was going to attempt it. Are there any other options in case it doesn't work? I've already wrenched a few pieces off of other models but it never feels right, also I don't want to risk breaking something.
Pic related, I ripped off a hand flamer to give him a Power Fist. Currently in need of green stuff to fix his arm.

>Dark Angels from the Dark Vengeance kit

Hold on, now... the shoota bitz on these ladz are separate. Did you buy them already assembled, or did you glue them and then realized you should have left the bolters (and backpacks, for next time) off before painting?

For plastic models, the two things I might suggest are either freezing the models to weaken the bonds of the cyanoacrylate glue (note: this will *not* work on models that have been assembled using plastic cement) and then snapping them apart, or just going balls-to-the-wall and snapping (or cutting/sawing) them off right away. You'll need to be gluing them back on later. Think of it as a really easy conversion.

Razor saw for straight cuts, jeweler saw from difficult cuts on small things.

why would you do the soot effect on the barrel, but not on the exhausts?

An interesting question for you guys: what kind of chairs do you sit in while painting? I'm in the process of revamping my workstation because I am wholly unsatisfied with it and I'm wondering what kind of chair I should get. Office chairs can be very ergonomic and comfortable for long sessions but having wheels that may move underneath you while painting sounds like it would feel less stable and be obnoxious, especially when hunched over. On the other hand, just putting a dinner table chair doesn't seem like it'd be particularly comfortable.

tl;dr if you could pick any one chair to paint in what would you pick?

Is bases4war any good?

bases4war.com/shop/wraithlands-range-40k-type/

These would do wonders for my Eldar, but the low price really makes me wonder

The plastic ones are more conversion friendly then the metal by so very, very much.

A stool when at my flgs
And at home either a swivel chair or a garden chair that I can lean back in and prop my hands on the armrest
I don't like stooping when I paint

Oh no, what I meant is those painted models are from that kit thus are easy to take apart, paint, and put back together. Everything not from that kit (I also got a Sanguinary Priest and a BA Battleforce) has been glued together already and will be more difficult to paint, especially if I don't take them apart before painting which.. I understand is a necessity after having used the Dark Angels as practice.
Ah so nothing I might find around the house, I gotta get dem tools.

any sort of office chair that can be lowered so far down that my armpits are at the top of the table. That way I can rest my entire arm on the table while working with the mini, reducing the amount of shaking my hands might make.

I think that's a Mekboy Junka, from IA. Basically a looted wagon with extra toys. Can be a Fast vehicle with a 1/6 chance of being immobilized instead.

>Everything not from that kit (I also got a Sanguinary Priest and a BA Battleforce) has been glued together already and will be more difficult to paint, especially if I don't take them apart before painting which.. I understand is a necessity after having used the Dark Angels as practice.

It depends on what standard you're willing to hold yourself to. I painted this Blood Angel from Assault on Black Reach who was already assembled when I got him, but I disintegrated his head and snapped off his backpack to replace them with elements from my bitzbox. I painted his plastron with the bolt gun in place, so while we won't ever go on to win any Golden Demon awards, he's good enough for the tabletop.

I haven't heard of these guys before but I have ordered shale bases from micro art studio and the quality was good.

shop.microartstudio.com/wraithstone-c-3_84.html

sup Veeky Forums. what's your favorite airbrush?

The price difference between the two is what both makes me wonder and what makes me interested. The micro art ones are 5 for 5 euro, the bases4war are 15 pound for 50.

The Citadel™ SprayGun® of course

Other than a few touch ups I plan on leaving most of the already painted models alone as kind of a visual depiction of progress as I get better. However I would like my army to at least not be sloppy, doesn't have to be perfect, but not sloppy. I'd say a touched up version of what I've painted would be fine

Latest on first librarian, I haven't hit it with a wash to smooth out the highlights. I didn't do very many, was encouraged to not do so many.

The face needs a wash, I am afraid I am at the limit of my skills on the face.

The hands are magnetized so that I can swap them out.

My attempt at fixing the cloak, used a watered down bone color over the yellow that was messed up.

Yeah armed with x2 grot bombs and 3 rokkits, one of which can be twin-linked.

I also have one with x3 kmbs and a bigzappa and one with three twin-linked big shootas and a kff.

Maybe he frogt to do them cause he was exhausted

>frogt to do them

Finished the paintwork for 5 tac marines. Doing angels encarmine. Pretty pleased with how they have turned out. I think the loincloth could be better, also most of the gold. Also made the mistake of edge highlighting with watered down paint which is foolish mistake.

Does anyone have any tips about painting infinity?

pictureless update but i've ruined the top one now, got it soaking in detol and all I feel is disappointment.

all very nice and dandy, but they look like they went overboard on the lipstick while touching up in the dirty bathroom at the local club while drunk while their girlfriends took bathroom selfies.

Other than that, I like them and would compliment them if I played against, a solid paintjob.

>tfw permabulking

This pic reminds me I need to paint the kneepads of my models..