WIP Work In Progress General

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Ventilate, motherfucker
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Reinforcements are en route
youtube.com/watch?v=UID6LEzvRRo

>Previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

store.infinitythegame.com/index.php?b=knight
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

Any good guides to painting green toxic vapors like pic related?

Take a look at the Warhammer TV video for Archaon, the way he does the color blend on the tail looks very similar.

Working away on ariadna now.

So I'm doing a combines Nugle Demons And CSM army and I'm stuck on colour.

I know I'll be going for drab green and bone with brass details, I just can't decide whether to got with Pre or post-heresy Death Guard colours for the marines.

Daemons will be majorly green with bone horns and brass weapons so maybe the "inverted" scheme of pre heresy will be good for the marines to make them strand apart while still remain cohesive as an army.

...

...

Man, an d here i am who thinks base colours and a dip is a chore.

I have a question for the lot of you in the know. I own some metal models that are discoloured like the ones in this photo.

Is this rusting? Is there anything you should do to treat models in a condition like this or is it fine to simply prime over and paint?

I don't find it a chore at all, I love painting more than pretty much any other activity!

I'm all about the conversions myself, for me painting's a chore and an opportunity to ruin weeks of work.

Really ought to find a local mini painter and do work swaps.

should be fine to prime over and paint, you could give them a bath though.

The yellow stuff on the feet is dried superglue and the brown stuff looks to be skin colored paint left over from the stripping. When pewter oxidizes it blackens somewhat. It doesn't rust.

And the newer GW minis are pretty much almost purely pewter and no lead. So that should only really happen under special circumstances.

Those sculpts are old enough that they can be lead too, but lead oxidizes whitish, so yeah.

>rusting

They are made from white metal, that stuff doesn't rust.

They were painted at one point and then stripped.

I saw an article on using metallic permanent markers for doing bulk amounts of metallics on vehicles. I decided to apply it to normal mini's and it works without too much of a headache. If only the tips of the markers weren't so huge I think it'd be the way to go.

These are only up to basecoating too. I'll post how they look after basecoats, washes etc.

How should I paint the horns on this one? I was thinking that just white/bone color doesnt do any justice to the model.

Also would a hawaiian theme for the trousers be better than just brown? I'm planning to paint all my ironjawz as a joke army with silly colors but maybe thats just too much

Holy fuck! Are the metallic sharpies that fucking good?!

you better get started greenstuffing one of these then

maybe for the maw crusha...

Would it be a good idea to Base black and sponge eshin gray for a weathered black on Iron Hands?

>prime white
>light grey wash
>glaze in desired color at the base of the plume
>ink/wash the base again
>apply very thin highlights as needed

that's what I'd do

Also a matte coating overtop it all to reduce shiny buildup

>Tfw can't edge highlight so have to stick to drybrushing
What's a good color to drybrush black with for an Iron Hands army?

Don't.

Paint them a really dark grey.

Drybrush a not quite so dark grey.

Wash/shade black.

Or run with the same colours, but edge highlight instead of drybrush, since you need the practice. It ain't hard (and this is from someone with "may be diagnosed with a mild variant of Parkinsons in thirty years" hands).

The problem for IH is that the color scheme requires 3 fucking edge highlights and takes forever. What colors from the GW range do you suggest for the drybrush method?

You can use a white crayon or colour pencil to edge highlight.

Not even joking, though yo have to varnish after to keep it from smudging out.

Well, it's gonna be tricky fitting this to a mini.

This seems like the right place to ask- I have some models that are rather top-heavy and wanted some advice on how to fix that. I considered putting greenstuff in the base, but that would take a lot of it and I have 10 of them to do.

Models are pic-related.

Fishing shop, they have heavy putty for filling sinks, also works under bases.

Whats's the purpose of those arms?
Chest bracing?

Glue a coin or a flat washer underneath the base

that looks nice. did you reall use sharpies or are you just baiting

I've just tried putting coins of various sizes and washers under the base, but I'm not sure I can fit them. There's a slot under there that prevents a flush fit.


looking at this heavy putty- how does one get it to cure?

those are 5th edition sculpts, aren't they?

GW stopped using lead by then, I thought

I think so. But I don't know how the original worked.

IIRC it doesn't really cure, i just blob some superglue under th ebase, fit th eputtyb and an dhten maybe glue a disc of plasticard or other under the base to keep it in.

You can buy mini flowers that will fit from an arts and crafts store like michaels. The only hard part would be placement and attaching them

Handle is under the gun instead of inside it.
Personally i'd have dual handles and triggers, one on each side.

I had to make some concessions.

But yeah, it's not perfect, but it's what I can do with the bits I have.

Build this engiseer today, gotta clean him up tomorrow

...

It's 1:00 am, I have a burning urge to finish my Warlord and I have nothing to highlight the Xeno Purple with. Send halp!

Thats sexy

First honest attempt at painting, with much help from Chaos God Duncan. Any tips? Still painting highlights and the flesh...and then the rest of the squad.

fabulous

Check pic related

Anyone know where I can find a decent 3rd party counts-as crusader? Preferably with more that 2 poses?

making some good progress on my assault marines

Highlighting is such a massive chore though, this took me over an hour to do the edging :/

Fabric looks good, should be very good once those extra highlights are done. You're better than I was when I started, neatness runs you great in the long run. Keep at it!

mix your purple with white or grey

I just got done painting up my boltercloak scouts today. Here's the back, showing off the cloaks.

My method was
> drybase Deathworld Forest
> detail mournfang brown into dark areas
> Drown the everloving shit out of it in Athonian Camoshade
> further detail with Stirland Mud
> drybrush Terminatus Stone

And here's the front. Helmets are from Pig Iron, scopes and bolter bits from Anvil Industries

Got the knee pads and more odds and ends done.

Looks good, would recomment repainting the rims of the bases to neaten the colour and make the cloaks more distinct though. Black or brown similar to the base texture would work
No silver detailing on the gun barrels?

that's dope as fuck

It's nothing out of the ordinary, which for a new painter is fantastic. This is really neat, great job. The fabric looks a little plain around the waist but I think that's more of a problem with the model than anything, it's very taut there so I doubt a wash will help much in adding definition.

Saw this on BoLS, didn't trust it one bit. Is that you, Rob Baer? How much is Sharpie paying you?

Not 3rd Part, I use Chaos Warriors with the chaos icons of the shield filed up. You can spice them up by cutting the torso of the front part and use a space marine torso.

How have you done those cloaks? They look amazing!

Aluminium foil, here's the process.

> cut a strip of foil to slightly taller than the scout
> Firmly press foil onto model, until it has the scouts shape
> gently pull off model, making sure to keep the shape
> apply superglue to the model in every spot the foil touched
> reapply the shaped foil
> let cure
> use a knife to trim excess off the base
> prime and paint

Stormcast?

Stormcast are terminator size, sadly

Pig Iron are back in business? Excellent news! Once I've painted the several hundred miniatures that I have + those on the way, I can put in an order for a few war droids to use for something I haven't decided yet.

Some of Corvus Belli's Panoceana Knight models have a vaguely similar vibe, albeit most come with a rifle of some sort.

store.infinitythegame.com/index.php?b=knight

What in the actual fuck, are you using fucking hot glue gun instead of superglue for assembling your models?

I'm liking that sweet rhombus pattern

Looks very good!

First attempt at camo. Not terribly pleased - think I made the patterns too small, which makes the model look muddled and messy from a distance. Good practice though, should be able to do the rest of the unit a bit better.

I think you posted the wrong image, friendo. There's no mini in that pic.

>tfw you're only missing one paint for a project
>tfw the missing paint is the second one you need
>tfw you live 50 miles from the nearest game store that carries paints

>tfw you forget your reaction image the first time

>tfw my local store which also has had a few nerds set up tables in now so i might finally be able to play some people other than my one friend
>it
>caved in
>they dont know how long construction is going to take to repair the roof

What do I highlight my Horus Heresy Emperor's children with? I'm afraid genestealer purple will make them way too pink.

Apologies for all the questions I have, but anyone know what the dinosaur is from? The only instance I've seen of it is some Eldar-rider conversion. Also is the Deathwing Knight here a deathwatch character? He has similar shoulderpads to my other deathwatch guys, but I've never seen other examples of this.

Get us a better pic.

old dark elf/lizardmen cold one (from 6th edition warhammer)

deathwing knight

oh shoot I didn't read the full post

that's a shoulder pad from the grey knight terminator kit

That's the best I can do unfortuantly, I don't own a camera beyond my phone. I suppose I could set up a blank backdrop one of these days.

thanks that looks right. guessing the original owner was going to make it into a deathwatch character since the lot came with some other deathwatch pieces

pewter tabs from other minis can also work.

holy shit, a rex cold-one.

Please recast it and share it with the world.

are they rare/valuable? I was just going to throw it in for free when someone buys my Lizardmen lot I've been trying to sell

Donno if their rare, but their better then the current Lizardmen cold ones. Too bad it was the DE that got the good resculpt.

What's the best brand of white primer?

in related questions, what's the best way to strip primer from plastic minis?

Greenstuff a pair of shades on the warchanter then

The catch 22 with cammo is that it is supposed to make the wearer muddled and messy by breaking up any recognizable lines and preventing any contrast with the environment- which will make your mini look poor.

I think your best bet is a larger pattern and a lighter green.

So I'm discovering, yeah. That was my thought as well - I think a brighter base green, plus a larger camo pattern, might make it less...scattered?

What are some good online retailers for Vallejo paints in the US?

Will matte vanish remove the gloss from bad washing?
I have models with shiny grey bases from a bad nuln oil pot

Have you checked out Miniature Market?

I've ordered models from them before, didn't realize they had paints. Thanks.

>Stormcast are terminator size

They are roughly 1.5 Johnnies tall.

Dats some good clean white there. Nice

First attempt?
user I see great things in your future.

First time painting for a few years (minus a few practice models), looking to improve with each new squad!

Here's my first lot of 10 30K Salamanders (still need to do decals but waiting on them).

Doing my Sicaran next!

I think I'm done for the night

Well the Bic ones work a heap better than the sharpie ones to be fair. The bic ones are wet and fall into cracks easier. The sharpie ones aren't shiny enough, their " silver " is a flat gun metal ( bottom right).

Bear in mind the metallic areas were primed white beforehand. If you do it over a dark surface it will look like a bit ugly.

Also always go bronze pen, then gold. I did just gold on Artemis and it's a bit piss yellow rather than gold. Compare that to the magus who is quite a rich gold.

What are the best primers?

I've never had a bad experience with Duplicolor Sandable Primer. It's auto stuff, but it's significantly cheaper than model primer, and it goes on nice and light, and doesn't obscure detail.

Can someone give me the lowdown on the differences between 30k models and 40k? They look identical to me to 40k marines, aside from different heads and different bolters.

also those models look great, although the black highlights could use some work

>They look identical to me to 40k marines, aside from different heads and different bolters
they are identical

some models don't exist in 40k, or use equipment not available in 40k, but all the betrayal at calth guys can work in both 30k and 40k without issue