WiP Work in Progress General

Anyone have a compilation of the Citadel painting guides in pdf? Pretty please.

How do these look, wip? I'm no master painter obviously, but I'm trying. Any suggestions?

Not awful by any means.

To improve, the skin looks rather grimy in places. Either too heavy on the wash, or not covering properly over a darker base. Any highlights whatsoever on the green? Contrast needs to be upped a lot if there are, and the browns would like a bit mroe as well. Get a black outline into the crevices and in between, well, anywhere you go from one thing to another, it makes things pop a lot better.

My camera isn't the best, so it's hard to actually see, but yes. It's Catachan green washed with devlin mud because I was trying foreman earthy spring coloration. I'm also forced to use the flash because my lighting isn't good here.

Dark Army Painter green primer, dark angels green, highlighted catachan, wash with mud, and touched with more catachan. The browns are scorched brown and snake bite with a bit of graveyard.

>Anyone have a compilation of the Citadel painting guides in pdf?

Emperor's Teeth, user! If you're not going to use the OP's links (hint: the kind of things you're asking for is in the very first link), you could at least... I don't know... look for a torrent?

Meant to post this one.

The last one was without flash. Had to add brightness and sharpen it up to to be able to see anything.

should i paint with arms off or should i just glue it completely together then paint? not sure

Always arms off. Makes detailing underneath them needlessly hard.

wouldnt painting the arms separate be fiddly though or is there some of of technique people use to hold small pieces to paint?

Attach it to a mount on the area where you'd glue it to the body using blu-tack or whatever the sticky putty shit is called in your country. Like so.

Any tips on how to give an underwater feel to the bases?

How do you unfuck primer if you feel like you've laid it on the model too heavy? I'm getting this gloopy look to a lot of the nooks and crannies on my model.

How would you do bases for Nurgle's Garden? What kind of flora should I use?

Finished the Fallen Frontiers Ares starter faction from the KS, and the heroes Bitsie and Hank.

Any idea where to start looking for a base to make some diving suit dudes? I figure they'd be good stand-ins for crossbowmen for my fishmen frostgrave band, but they're harder to find than I thought.

Some reaper chronoscope minis looked like promising starts, but I figured I'd ask.

Adding on, how to remove primer if some of it has applied a little fuzzy to a few spots?

your best bet would be to strip and prime again. If you're getting fuzzies, make sure it's mixed properly and your ambient humidity isn't super high.

Spray on primer, back off and make thinner coats. Brush on, don't brush over already covered areas before it dries, and again, thin coats.

Cleaning all this is going to give me lung cancer or super powers.

The smell of lead was impressive. Funny enough the quality is all over the place as usual. But nothing as bad as Priveteer Press, Finecast. The fuck ups are forge world fuck up.

Found something to do with my old Rhinos.
Might turn them into Repressors

>Found something to do with my old Rhinos.

I don't ... understand. Why did you need to find a purpose for something that already has a purpose?

Did you use a spade bit on pink panther foam? gnarly, should have thought about forstner

Working on my soul grinder.
Fuck bone colours.

>Did you use a spade bit on pink panther foam?

Very astute! I used it to gouge out holes just deep enough to accommodate every model (and in some cases, magnetizing apparatii) for what would later form a display board for AOP.

Hey, quick question: building a FW flyer for the first time (a Caestus Assault Ram, specifically) and the flyer base hole feels too shallow to hold up the model on the flyer base...is this intentional? does FW mean for it to be glued on? or should I magnetize it with something else

so far, I like the cream/gold, and I like the lavender flesh, but definitely not together. I know it's early days in your paintjob so I'm openminded, but I've always thought this model was fucking ugly and poorly designed visually to begin with, so kudos to you if you end up pulling off something decent

That's a gorgeous board. Do you have tips/tricks for keeping the fucking rails on your 2e rhinos from snapping? Fuck those things

Anyone else looking forward to the Dark Souls boardgame miniatures? They look breddy dope.

Also, I've recently taken to painting older out of print models. Anyone know/own any good oldies?

Some deathwatch I whipped up last night. A salamander, black templar, and a crimson fist.

got both your bases covered right here

you must be whipping like a motherfucker, chill out on the glue. all your dudes have major frosting on their necks

Ok so I've been through two Citadel M Base brushes and each one either split into or the ends of some of the bristles curled up.

What am I doing wrong?

Also, how do you prevent paint from drying quickly on your brush? Like I got to clean it off after using it, even if it's a short time, and already there's some of the paint dried up on the bristles.

Sick bruh. You got any painted examples? What year are they?

>That's a gorgeous board.

Thanks!

>Do you have tips/tricks for keeping the fucking rails on your 2e rhinos from snapping?

Don't glue them on in the first place?

>Fuck those things!

Yes, fuck those things! I hate them and pledge not to install them on any of the other future OOP Rhinos I intend to assemble.

I've done so the combo before so it should work in the end, the model is nice imo though but for now I need to finish basecoats and starting washing as unwashed bone makes me go insane.
I feel I need more bone on the model, the sword hilt seems like a good spot

Looks pretty interesting, and I do like your green.

Anyone have those metalic airbrushing picture guides used on an imperial knight? Maybe the mechanicum forgeworld model

Personally I clean up my brush after every second grab of paint form palette (just stir it up in glass of water and wipe excess on paper towel), with metalics and white paints I do it after everu grab.
Also after finishing paiting session I clean brushes in warm (but not hot) water with soap, then just water and wipe excess. Also I roll a tip on brush with my tongue before putting that plastic protector on.
Store them with sable pointing to the ground so that excess water can run out and evaporate.

If you already fucked your brushes up you can reanimate them using brush cleaner from hobby/art store and then putting sable to the hair conditioner (just grab some from gf/mom/sister bottle and pour it on small plate).

Thanks I'll try that.

Also, is there any trick to thinning paints? Are there any paints you shouldn't thin?

Any opinions on how I should paint the glyphs and stone/metal on the stargate here & feathers? Thinking maybe an onyx stone with the metals and glyphs a bright gold and green/yellow feathers.

I suck at color theory so any advice is appreciate or if there are some resources I can get some help with.

>"Oh god I should not have gone to Brother Malik's 503rd geneseed implantment day, Emperor knows the only thing I love more then purging xenos is apostasy white icing cake.

Some user the other night was talking about using bic sharpies in place of metallic paints. Anyone tried this?

desu I'd just keep it how it is, looks pretty dank

Faint yellow bevel around the runes with a faint black outline.

'sup /Wip, quick question(and sorry if I am a bit out of topic)
I'm pondering o buy a great unclean one of FW, but the cost is just batshit insane and people brags about FW quality all the time, so...
i was thinking about getting a recast from ebay.
how are your experiences with chinamans/recasters? How bad the quality can drop?
And what should be my approach to resin? Always worked with plastic and metal, so i'm not sure how to move.

Does anyone happen to have any good Dark Angels painting tutorials/pdfs/etc? I'm looking to do some Warmachine stuff in a nice, dark green-black and I know the DA get pretty dark with their greens. The more idiot-proof, the better.

Thin your glues.

With a vision.

thanks for the reply user. will keep as is at least until i decide what the heck to do

also thanks for your reply. not sure I have the brush skills to be honest, but will think/read about it more!

There's a WarhammerTV guide to painting Dark Angels on youtube that is fairly helpful and idiot-proof

Is that a preheresy thousand son I see back there?

Na it's a genestealer magus. But I did do a thousand son a while back. Here are both.

Ah ok, I saw blue, gold, red, and a staff.

What did you do for the actual Thousand son? I was thinking of painting some for a 40k KT. Like a renegade coven that wasn't on Prosper or something.

Also, please tell me you primed your shit. The unprimed guys in the back have me worried.

Just built myself a cheapo lightbox from the tutorial posted earlier, what do you all use to take your pictures? Just your phone?

I did white primer. Silver basecoat all over ( as bright as possible). Then a thin coat of nuln oil into the cracks only. Then a coat of red wash all over. Then tamiya clear red all over.

I fucked up and did the legs way too dark with red wash though. See how they're muddy compared to the toffee apple red at top.

And yea I'm going to prime them. But I need to scrape off the glue and mouldlines etc first

will putting a resin model (specifically forgeworld) in the freezer do any of the following:

damage the resin
remove the superglue holding it together
damage or destroy my frozen pork buns next to the model in the freezer

my aim is to disassemble the superglued resin model to better get into the cracks when paintstripping it (it is currently 95% stripped

>damage the resin
Nope, there shouldn't be any moisture in the resin, so it won't be harmed.
>remove the superglue holding it together
Superglue binds a surprising amount of water when setting, this will expand, destroying the glue bonds.
>damage or destroy my frozen pork buns next to the model in the freezer
Keep the model in a plastic bag or box of some kind, small bits may well fall off as the glue goes to hell. You don't want to loose small resin bits down your freezer. It shouldn't be out-gassing anything though, so your pork buns should be entirely safe.

The red looks amazing.

What can I coat water effects in to make it not stick to stuff? I made a board and the surface is coated in water effects. They are 2 foot by 4 foot boards and I tried stacking them but they stick to each other.

butter

dont listen to this guy. what you want is sand. just grit your board down with sand when you play, and pack them into boxes of sand between sessions.
just make sure to thin your sand when you apply it, remember- multiple thin coats of sand are better than one thick coat.

Finished painting a 2nd Librarian for my Grey Knights army. Just need to base him now.

>tfw dust sticks to the cloak as the varnish is drying

Make sure it's original GW basing sand though.

Will Zap-a-Gap break apart if I put models in the freezer? I'm trying to break an old Dire Troll Mauler into its constituent pieces because I painted it like a 5 year old. Will the fact I put green stuff into the model gaps make it significantly harder to make it come apart?

Great job mate. Shame about the dust though.

what minis are these?

they look like nurgle infested sperm

The superglue will break, the green stuff on the other hand probably won't.

My other lib for comparison

What do people think of my Anger man?

When did tg turn into Veeky Forums?

Good definition on the face there user, really nicely done. Armour is nice and muted, but still clearly golden.

Good job, keep up the good work.

put something between the plates? Something soft, so perhaps a layer of foam?

I put a rubberized mat between and had to peel it off

One of every model in existence would likely bankrupt you before you have bought enough space to put them in.

I'd start with something a little more controlled, like maybe a skaven city.

>I put a rubberized mat between and had to peel it off
hmm, not what I expected. maybe you could varnish the water surface to give it a harder, not sticky top-coat?

What I see

What if I use a hair dryer at max heat on a molded piece of green stuff?

This. Matte varnish the individual pieces, make sure the contact points are clean and it's even easier if you pin them before, sturdier too. Then all you have to do is glue.

>what did he mean by this

Yeah, don't inhale the gas that comes off of it and don't touch the stuff with your bare hands before it's primed. Leave it to gas out for a month or so. You really, really don't want to inhale this crap.

Clean your house first, you goblin

It looks great except for the staff handle. Grab a toothbrush and gently try to brush off the dust, then do another layer of varnish and call it weathering.

>What if I use a hair dryer at max heat on a molded piece of green stuff?
heat cures green stuff, so it should harden a fair bit quicker.

Now that the shading is actually visible... The highlights look rather slopped on, and appears to be a rather olive green on a far mroe emerald green base, clashing a bit.

Overall I think it's mostly a matter of "train more" to get better brush control, but try to think about where exactly you're putting the highlights/shading, as well as trying to keep things a bit mroe constant in regards to vibrancy/tone of the colour. And of course some day going for more steps to the highlighting than just two levels, even though that in itself is of course a step up from one (ie no shading).

So, yeah, keep practising.

Because I don't use a lot of Rhinos with SoB. Is not like I'm tearing a new asshole to the models. Just separate the ass, and add a bit of plasticard between the body and the treads.

Yah I use goggles and a mask to work with them.

>i don't use a lot of rhinos with SoB

I'm assuming that's because they're not Immolators?

Well, you shoudn't thin washes, technical paints, dry paints (if you buy that stuff form GW lines). All regular paints should get some water before applying them. I mix them on wet pallete I make before paiting session. Folded, wet paper towel and piece of baking paper is fine. If you get baking paper with silicone layer (it's usually written on box) you might want to boil that paper for a few minutes to get it off and enable water to migrate thru paper.

And when thinning regular paints, always try it on your fingernail, if it leaves straitght line it's ok. If line is blurry or runs around nail like a wash - you overdid it and better mix it once more, so you save yourself frustration when paiting.

Basically yes. Had you seen how silly the old Rhino looks with an Immolator turret?

If you run mech SoB Immolators are your only options and well Repressors are way too much fun for Basic Battle sisters squad. Flaming around their 13/11/10 is God sent.

What's your recipe for silver? It's so smooth

>you shoudn't thin washes

That depends on the effect you want. I very rarely use mine as-is, tossing in both some water and some acrylic medium to get it to behave like I want. Where the base paint sits from gloss to matte also affects things.

Judging by the grainy look it's been airbrushed.

Airbrush and edge highlights