WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

No WIP thread on Veeky Forums?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>In the face of death, I shall have no remorse.
youtube.com/watch?v=N_ZgyNoHtjw

>Previous Thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=GFpqxHFMZXs
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

Do I have to drill holes in the hands of my space marines for them to hold flamers?

You shouldn't need to.

If it's a SM kit where the guns come solo, you're expected to cut off the handle and glue it to the SM's hands. Those older style kits were designed that way in mind for those who wished to make holsters not have the weapon armed.

Newer kits generally have guns attached at the trigger hand, or worse yet having the forward hand sculpted onto the gun. (for that extra monopose features!)

Are the marine helmets with sculpted laurels intended to represent veterans or could I use it for a regular sergeant?

Repostan because I'm still kinda clueless.

Hey guys i need some help, i want to do something funky with my orks, think along the lines of icy orks.

Now i figured my way this far with the help from master duncan youtube.com/watch?v=GFpqxHFMZXs by just using his advice but with paints swapped

I used as
Base p3 Trollblood Base instead waagh flesh
Shade drakenhoff nightshade instead beil tan green

And now im asking myself what color i should use instead of the warboss green to highlight the muscles of the orks.

I was thinking of calgar blue which i incidently have around but i figured to ask someone who had more of an idea of painting than myself

Also does anyone think this idea has some merit to look good or should I just start stripping, I begun to have my doubts

I'm painting up an undead model at the moment, i've gone for grey almost white skin but I want to add some bruising and cuts, I'm just wondering if anyone's got a decent idea of how to do bruises

Working on ww3 soviets

Attempting subtle jewelled cockpit

>The Imperial Laurel is a Space Marine Honour Badge that appears as a wreath of interlocking leaves, usually fashioned of platinum or gold, worn as a crown above the helmet or sculpted into a Battle-Brother's helmet and shaped from ceramite. It can also be displayed on the crest of the shoulder pad or the knee pad as a skull-and-wreath motif.

>The Imperial Laurel is a mark of skill, loyalty, and heroism and may only be awarded to Space Marine who has completed a great act of valour and performed some great deed that leads to a victory for the Imperium. The awarding of an Imperial Laurel is a ceremony rich with tradition and honour, although it varies from Chapter to Chapter. The Codex Astartes demands that Company Standards must be borne into battle by warriors who have proven their worth, and there are few surer marks of such distinction than the Imperial Laurel.

>A Space Marine who wears the Laurel is, to his peers, a proven warrior of his Chapter. The word of a Battle-Brother who wears the Imperial Laurel will carry more weight that it would otherwise, sometimes influencing the nature of his missions or gaining the use of rare assets, weapons or allies and the right to carry the Company Standard into battle.
-Lex

It's an honor badge given to any bruva who does something pretty badass, regardless of rank.

I hope the guy who posts his pastel red johnnies/johnny memes dies IRL so the posts stop.

Those're nice, m8, but ... Emperor's Teeth, I can't believe I'm complaining that a picture is too *small!*

>I hope the guy who posts his pastel red johnnies/johnny memes dies IRL so the posts stop.

I hope he wins the lottery so he can quit his job and move on to better things.

why? he's the best poster here

>probably the most helpful, bro-tier poster in these threads, and you want him gone.

user, it's you the one deserving death.

Hey all,

I'm new to the table top hobby and I got into hordes (since a dude sold me his skorne army for $20 while I was buying orks)

This is my first time painting and I could use any advice I can get.

I know about the basics, dry brushing, washes, etc. But it seems like they just don't pop like any other models I see.

Granted I've been at it for only a week, but any advice I can really make my models stand out?

First of all, the paints look smooth on the flatter areas, so you've got that going for you as a beginner!
I think the main thing for you to do is working on shading and highlighting. There's a lot of texture sculpted into that armor that will get lost more and more as it is held further away, so working in some washes and highlighting the edges will help. What you've got is still good for a base, just apply a dark green or, with how dark the green you're using is, black shade, re-apply the color you've used, and then probably working with the Warpstone you got behind him (or a mix of it and your current paint) along the edges to simulate light hitting it. the cloth and leather will be similar, but probably with sacred Agrax wash instead.
Best of luck and welcome to the hobby!

And I forgot: go back and cover the couple of spots you missed, like the area above the belt, and looks like around his left hand and inside of the pauldrons.

Has anyone ever actually met Duncan?

I bet behind that calm demeanor he puts on for the tutorials is the best fucking bro you could ever ask for. Like, "buy a random stranger a pint at the pub because he looks down on his luck" type of bro.

Are you the same shitlord who was bitching about the "everyone is excellent to each other" part in the WIP pasta a few days ago?

I'm not sure what colour to do the magic wispy thing in her hand, if I do it red to match the rest of the blood on the model I think it might be too much red on the whole model. possibly a bright blue colour for some contrast?

Thank you!

Should I lightly paint with the emerald? Or dry brush?

Also how much should be on the brush? I feel like I'm not using enough since I don't see a change in armor color at all,but I'm also worries I'll use too much and completely change the color of the armor

are you the one that always posts Malifaux stuff? it's great but it's making me want to get into Malifaux and I don't want to because I know my stuff won't look as good

Agreed on both points, user. Go with the blue.

>are you the one that always posts Malifaux stuff?
yea, that's me.
Malifaux is an awesome game and the more people who get into it the better, the models are so nice to paint.
only issue is assembling the sodding things, they are needlessly fiddly

I hope you post a WIP next time, dicknuts, in addition to your shitty little opinion

Alright, here's my WIP of my A. Regular.

Is it wrong that I want a picture of him framed on my paint bench just to remind me to thin my paints and keep a nice, fine tip to my brush?

Are older space marine models supposed to look smaller than the new ones?

I have 3 new space marines (the start painting ones) in the back of pic related. In the front is a space marine captain which uses the old base. Is he supposed to look that small?

I noticed this when I compared arms from the current Tacticals and Vanguard with the Death Company box.

Got I hate painting flesh.

Eminem?

So it's not just me? Because... the captain is a chinese replica and the tacticals behind him are official GW. I was worried that the chinese replica was smaller or something.

It's not just you. Anyone can confirm this by comparing the size of an elbowpad prior to 2013 with the current models.

I see. So I suppose no one will make a big deal of this if I just play casually right?

Not the real Slim Shady

Do you mean base size or model height?

No one should give you grief over either.

Well both the base size and the model seem to be smaller for the captain. Apparently they are both caused by GW.

The new build & paint kit, as well as the deathwatch veterans kit are not squatting, which makes them slightly taller than the normal Marine.

The new deathwatch veterans are not push-fit right?

What's a good beginner air brush?

Nope, multi part and awesomely so. Only the overkill game guys and the two DW HQs are monopose.

wagh

Hey guys, I'm looking to see if anyone has any guides like this attached one, but for trees. I'm looking to do a bit of foresty basing work, and have a few bare metal armatures from Woodland Scenics that I want to turn into some pine, spruce and aspen trees. Thing is, most everything I've found is more about using pieces of bark as basing materials, not as actually painting the bark and whatnot. Youtube videos, forum posts, even a quick photo tutorial would be nice.

Iwata Revolution/Eclipse

As a beginner I went through several airbrushes before I found one I liked. Started with a Neo (made under the Iwata name but not actually an Iwata), which immediately broke (though it did come with a free dead spider). Returned it, got a Badger Krome. The Krome basically worked fine but it was a pain in the ass. Awful to clean, had to disassemble it every time I sent primer through, the tip always dried up, hard to backflush, and the seals around the nozzle leaked - even when tightened with a wrench.

Third airbrush is an Iwata Eclipse, and it's fucking fantastic. Extremely high quality, durable, paints well, easy to clean and disassemble.

Anyone else with the deathwatch vets set notice the size creep? I had to put stuff under the librarians head ( which uses the stern guard set body) just to heighten him. And even then his head only reaches the chin.

Is this the beginning of true scale marines officially?

That iron hands guy looks like a skulls enemy from MGSV.

I think it's mainly the mk8 legs. The deathwatch knee pads are mid thigh on the manlet librarian.

This was mentioned above. Newer kits have thicker arms and longer legs as well (with exeption of the Assault Marines who look even smaller than before).

Again, the deathwatch veterans have stretched legs, which make them look considerably taller, but compared to a regular Marine, reposed to stand upright, they measure the same.

Forgot pic related.

Please, anyone?

Looks like trash bro. try doing multiple layers and then doing a drybrush for the last to highlight the muscles

I like it. Reminds me of the dark skin option in WoW.

How do I thin Citadel paints for use in an airbrush?

With water. I usually do it in like a dixie cup then just pour it in.

What's your ratio of water to paint for an airbrush then?

I like it, just be careful how you paint the rest of the ork. If you're not careful to pick some colors that contrast well with the skin itll just blend in with everything else and not stick out.

Also, another highlight may help, a slightly lighter drybrushed or something. Remember you want him to pop at tabletop

It's been a bit since I used my airbrush, but I remember trying to just get the paint to a milk-like consistency. Too watery it just spatters.

Finished the first of six Bloodcrushers. Took awhile but I'm really happy with how he turned out.

whoever sorts out wyrd's parting on sprues needs to be fucking shot

airbrushing stuff for a 15k point apoc game on Saturday; steel legion vs orks on Armageddon

there's no way everything will be painted fully, but i at least want airbrushing done so there are no just primed models on my side of the table

What Colour would you recommend for the drybrush?

I think I'm gonna try both out just to compare dry brush and a layer highlight just to compare

>p3 paints
>p3 metallics
Jesus Christ, never again
4 coats for khardic flesh to cover even somewhat evenly over black primer is hitlerian, and molten bronze covers similarly poorly
whoever recommends these can fuck right off

Nice, I really like a more realistic look for 40k vehicle models.

current wip, ending here for the night.

I really hope for a new tactical box with legs like this

Yeah he's alright.

Reposting from last thread, C&C most welcome.

i like the glaze in the mouth, nice effect. I wish there was a 3/4 or full front pick though (as much as i like the "action" shot). Maybe some more character in the hands or feet? Like dirty soles or callousy knuckles or discoloured nails/nail bits.

This model would look interesting with a fire underneath him lighting the stomach-mouth-legs area.
But yes I agree with what the guy above me said.

Wew, can I get one of them recast Johnnys please?

>4 coats for khardic flesh to cover even somewhat evenly over black primer

You are 100% retarded, nigga what the fuck are you even thinking?
>Hurr durr why can't I get a light, subtle colour over a straight black primer?
>This is entirely the paint manufacturers fault and not me being thick as two short planks

Not original user, but I had the same question, thank you posted helpfully

Looks nice and clean, I like it

>buy rubber brushes
Holy shit, this shit is awesome to shape green stuff

Blue or green. I'm leaning towards blue.

Go for magenta, it would work better.

Do pure white with some yellow in it and add a bright lighting effect on hand/arm/face/chest

Good advice. Had exactly same experience with cheap brushes and badger. Using iwata and H&S now and recommended both for performance and ease of maintenance.

Paladin Apothecary WIP

Thanks guys, I was considering dirtying up the feet when I finished the base. The gloss effect turned out much better than I expected, it's not visible in the picture but his eyes are also glossed.

use cididel air. pre thinned. just add a coupple drops of air caste and you are set.

acrylic thinner

I like the idea but I have a problem with the current execution. The raised areas are not uniformly highlighted. right now it looks like he's covered in a very subtle camo pattern, not that his skin is dark blue. Base it all one dark color first, then highlight the muscle groups with successively brighter blue colors.

Why are you going to be painting the Ork's pockets a different colour than the rest of his greatcoat? Not criticising, just asking. I mean the fur trim to the pockets being white, fine, but the whole damn pocket? Looking good though user, I love Kromlech's sculpts.

I love painting flesh, I think you can get really great effects just by using one additional level of highlighting on the cheeks and raised areas compared to any other area you would paint (armor, cloth, etc)

from the unpainted model i thought the pockets were some kind of muff seperate from the jacket. i checked their promo picture and saw it was indeed pockets. ill be doing it the same colour. and yeah, i have a full ork army of kromlech orks, i love them.

...

>The raised areas are not uniformly highlighted

Thats because they are not highlighted at all. Maybe i havent asked my question properly - lets try that again.

I have based the model first with trollblood base, then shaded it with drakenhoff nightshade, and now im asking what paint i should i use for highlighting the muscles

>trollblood
Not rocket science. But base, wash, highlight with base is like painting 101.

what is that mini? I need it for /tummy/ reasons

That pure white, lovely annon

>Dat Marauder Destroyer

Gib.

Reposting since I have a question - think this would benefit from a very light wash, just to sorta darken the model a bit? It looks a bit...chalky to me, when I take a close look at it.

Also, thanks to whoever pointed me at Rubicon for some transfers, that was super helpful.

Building a Furioso.

Does it matter which arm the guns are attached to?

Nope, just as long as they're represented.

Thanks mate. I noticed the Furioso on the box had a meltagun on his right arm but the DC Furioso had a meltagun on his left. I didn't know if there were Warmachine like rules for weapons.

The posts won't stop.
I'll take up the mantle.

There must always be a johnny poster.

I can't seem to find a tutorial for green stuff flames on a sword

I conquer the stupid flag. Now I need to figure out how to fix the He-man sword.

Johhny looks like a Slav from the back.

No idea why the fuck phone loves to put images sideway.