WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

I've had one of the 2nd Edition Beasts of Nurgle forever. Took the tentacles off and made a mold of the body so I could have as many as I'd like.

Good enough for me.

I have almost all my guys fully build before I spray prime, and I do it pic related.

It helps if you have a really thin painting table; you can spray from under the table and shoot spray from below up at them.

Helpful for hitting areas under dickcapes and robes.

You can also just ignore those areas for the most part if you're worried about detail loss.

Generally, I find that if I can't easily hit an area with spray primer, it's also not gonna be subject to the same wear-and-tear that more easily accessible parts will be.

You're probably safe barely even priming it at all since nothing is gonna be able to hit the area to knock the paint off.

As long as you can get the paint on there in the first place you're in the clear.

And so I begin work on slowly cleaning up my work area after the glue dries on the organizer I think I'm going to paint it because why wouldn't I

>skittle
pff

Thanks, man. I've actually got an area I can do that fairly well at, so that'll help. Just a matter of not getting paint on the "table" in question. (The little dudes are ready to prime! The one on the left had a bit of weird fit with the arm's wrist, but for my first and second real mini assembled, not too bad.)

that doesn't seem too stable user

Like any cardboard constructed object internal support is vital...also it is wip... I kind of need to dry to complete construction

Also add more triangular supports

So I tried to do edge highlighting, and realized I hate brushes for being precise, so I started doing edge highlights with a mechanical pencil.

Pic somewhat related, didnt do pencil highlights, but working on a warlord of my own

Thats an idiotic way of doing it if i have seen one. Find a lath or something thats like a meter long and flat. Cover it in scotch tape if its porous. Poster putty your minis on it, and then you can prime them with a can while rotate the lath with one hand and spray it with the other. Its never a good idea to keep an aerosol can in a not 90 degree angle.

Trying to convert my 25mm resin guys to 32mm bases.

I don't think I'll be able to rebase Dante and Seth who only have a single foot resting on their base.

Do you guys think just doing something like pic related will work?
They are Chapter Masters - having them on a pedestal might be a cool way of differentiating them from the rest of my army.

You should prime in gold or light brown

Id greenstuff and put cool shit on it, but it could work. Tbh though I'd rather take the pain and try rebasing, not seeing how 1 foot stops you

Curious as to why? I did white and then a leadbelcher base coat, then shade down from there. Would that be to improve the gold color or what?

You can buy adapters that convert 25mm to 32mm for just this reason.

Dropped half of a cataphractii combi Bolter, been looking for it an hour already

Fuck this.

I'll just head to bed and strip search the studio tomorrow.

For that much surface area it needs to be as flat as can be, meaning as little progression as possible. That's why alot of people use airbrushes especially for armour

Set a flashlight on the ground. Sometimes it helps pick out dropped bits.

if you cut the tab off and drill a hole to pin it you shouldn't have a problem.

Already did so, but the room's full of clutter and I'm dead tired.

Let's hope I find it in the morning.

Okay, now roll around the floor naked. Sweaty bare skin is the best way to collect fallen bits.

Im paintin my storm troopers in a British commando scheme. Here they be, nice and wip.

But I am man now and it is time to choos. Zandri Dust (like armor), Steel legion Drab (like fatigues), or Castellan Green (like berets) for the armour of my newly magnetized taurox?

Here's their friend, Mr. Beeps the Jeep. He's waiting on a shipment of blood and skulls brand wheels to be converted into his full mrap style glory.

You could always go with pink if you really wanna push the British commando theme.

Question for the recasters out there:

I'm looking to make some copies of a few resin bases I bought off ebay, because while they're nice I'll be fucked if I pay £20 for shipping from the UK overseas again, especially for a £16 order. So I'm looking to recast these fuckers, and got the casting pdf that another user posted a while back. Which kind of mold should I be looking at for this, latex or silicone? The silicone seems like it would be sturdier and last a bit longer, but they are just resin bases with a minimal amount of huge bits that stick up above the base, so latex might be cheaper overall. Advice?

Ha, time for Malifaux.

lookin good
one thing is thorn(?), dude on the right doesnt look like he's angry, more like he's in the middle of a particularly difficult deadlift the way his face and especially eyebrows are painted

I can't unsee that now, I think he looks more depressed rather than anything else, it was completely unintentional.

Silicone has a much better casting life which you'll need. I suggest casting the ground of whatever you're using and do the extra bits separately like skulls etc

...

Ehh, I'm not too pressed with it. I'd rather look like a unified force than delve too heavily into historical elements. ..as fun as pink jeeps might be.

Y'aright, I get ya.

I'd go with the Zandri Dust for the most part then to keep their armor and their armor all one color.

For secondaries, I'd use the Castellan Green for exhaust/engine pipes and other big details, and then the Steel Legion Drab for the door insets and all the less-armored-but-still-part-of-the-armor parts.

Sounds good - I'll have Mr. Beeps lookin' fresh for his kill team debut.

[WIP SPEAK]

interesting

It depends how many you need.

Latex is much cheaper, but with resin it's unlikely to last very long because it gets attacked by oils and solvents, even only very tiny amounts will fuck over the mould eventually. There's also a tiny amount of shrinkage involved - which eventually sets in.

>tl:dr if you need lots of casts and want to reuse the mould long-term then make a silicone mould, if you need only a few casts in the short-term then make a latex mould.

Painting a Kingdom Death Twilight Knight, thoughts?

>drop $200 on tool with no idea what it actually does

>fuck up the reply #

was meant to be

Don't paint on sprue, just gives yourself more work in the end.

This is going to be an amazing centerpiece!

Started up my several year old Dreadfleet after me and a friend had an awesome game a few days ago.
Started with the two main ships, Bloody Reaver and Sigmar´s Wraith, these are the bases, and I have started to lay down the base colors on the ships.

What this user said .
Its modeling 101, you cut of the tab, drill a fine hole in the foot, and stick a rod in it. match that to the base and glue tight, then simply bend the rod and lock the model in place when glue is dry.

There are adapters.
Or you could glue the small base on top of the larger one and make it look like a hill with texture paint and/or putty/green stuff.
Since they are characters, a slightly higher base wouldn't look to odd.

Its not surprising. I have spoken to people who don't want to join the hobby because the heavy starting cost, because they actually believes you need an airbrush to do just about anything.

And as you say, judging by anons comment, he has bought a expensive tool, not really sure on what it does. Perhaps he has listened a bit to much to the "the airbrush is a magical all in one tool" anons on the board. Regardless, its an eye opener when you realize you don't pour in the magical paint and do one big stroke and its all done (like the classical chess board scene in Santa's workshop).

Hate the centaur-looking profile of the defiler, thought it might make a good spider/crab thing. Absolutely love the shape now

Soz not sure how to rotate the puctures on my phone

Better shot of the carapace + stinger/exhaust, came out looking pretty tyranidy which is fine with me. Very insectile (arachnile?)

still need to work some more trim on to the carapace and work out a place for a heavy bolter/lascannon that looks natural and doesnt look like eyes, cause as soon as it looks like it has eyes the battle cannon suddenly looks like a NOOT NOOT mouth or one of those shooty mouth guys from zelda, idk the name

I painted up the Slaughterpriest that came with the new White Dwarf today. Does Veeky Forums like?

I cannot for the life of me get the light balance right in my pictures. It all looks good on my camera then I get it onto my PC and it sucks ass.

Can't figure out what to do with this spear tip, I wanted a soft blue blend but it just doesn't work on large areas. Same with the helmet, it's not what I'm looking for.

The magenta and dusty blue look great together and the model doesn't do them justice. I think an army painted like this will look great on the table. I'm going to airbrush it on the guardians where as I hand blended the farseer.

It's looking really good. I think a little bit more of an edge highlight might bring out some more of the metal parts but that's being super pedantic. Skin looks a bit dirty (and not in a good way) to me, but I'm really bad at skin.

Is the base finished? It looks a bit barren but I can imagine that working. I've never been a fan of the vegetation that you've used on the base, it's always felt a bit too big for the scale.

Yeah the base is finished. I want it to be barren. It's meant to be like a desert sort of environment. The plants are deliberately chunky because they're sort of meant to look like weird green-dried plants.

Idk if you've played the Mad Max video game, but the start bit where you're in the bottom of a dried ocean...it's sort of meant to be like that. Here's another photo for judgement.

I agree on the skin, I hammed it up bad with a final drybrush. I usually drybrush such things because my care factor is low but this guy started to be one of my better models and I regret doing it that way now.

And I agree on the edge highlight - I need to get the orange recommended. The problem is, then I'd have to edge highlight my whole Khorne army and I don't love them that much!

This pic shows my attempt at blending.

Just wanted to say, bless you all in these threads for posting your good shit. These threads inspire me to get off my lazy ass and keep doing my shit paint jobs on my ork force. Haven't painted in almost a year. Feelin like it now.
Area I moved to has a Warhammer store that opened last month. Are they any good for buying GW minis, or is it better to find a mom n pop shop?

Just washed this guy next is high lights. This is my first painted character for age of sigmar, is it coming along well?

I have been thinning my paints, honestly

tfw your minis are increasingly getting brighter
just fuck my consistency up fampire

...

How did you highlight that black? What colour is that? Stegadon scale green or something?

dark reaper + thunderhawk blue

Repostan this from some days ago.

Did you use a gloss wash?

good stuff, crispanon

Yes yes you are great at this, but we've already seen and saved these. Would you kindly paint some other miniature?

I used Vallejo burnt umber. It hasn't dried yet but I don't think it comes out glossy.

Actually i just guessed the name but it's Vallejo something or other brownish wash equivalent to the popular citadel brownish wash

How did you highlight your black?

>Some kid finger paints a space marine
9001 replies

>Decent painter posts a slow progress of WIPs showing high level blending and interesting basing
0 replies

see

Here

Hey there, small update here. Just in the middle of finishing up these guys, lots of details to go: All the leather, tires, wear & tear, cables, brass & iron, eyes & cables, bones & horns... but at least i can see the the light at end of the tunnel.

I'd give those bits of cork a wash with agrax earthshade or strong tone, just to make them look more realistic. The blending on his hand is nicely done, and while your speed painting is allright, i think that the picture doesn't do you any favours.

Already looks pretty good so far. But i second the plan to airbrush your guardians. The army would just take forever to finish if you should you blend all of your guys like this.

It looks quite okay for a tabletop standard, but the flash makes it hard to judge. Look into the how-to-take-a-picture-guide, it should be somewhere around here, you won't regret it.

Both of you produce outstanding paintjobs that show off the very best that /WIP/ has to offer. It's always inspiring to see work like this. Thank you.

Also some progress on my happy little lord.

Just spent another hour looking for it, nothing.

Anybody know a ghetto way to fix half a combi bolter?

strap another gun to it to turn it into a combi-weapon?

love those guys

I thought it looked like he was gingerly walking over something sharp with his bare feet there. Probably unintentional by the sculptor, but I guess it would take an accident to make a Malifaux humanoid look at all graceful or even naturalistic

Well, combi bolters are basically two bolters strapped together, thing is, I've only got Tigrus and Godwin bolters, idk which would look less crappy...

Just got a lightbox, trying it out along with some GIMP white balance correction. Thoughts on the model and the picture?

I was personally more thinking of something like a melta or plasmagun.

heyo, needing a bit of painting help, i got myself a raging heroes kickstarter models (dark elf sorceress) which i would like to paint like a witch to use in pathfinder (green skin witch)

using gw paints what is the best way to get a light green tone for skin? and what would be the best complementing colours for the cape/robe and hair?

Vibrant or pale green? Red always goes well with green or you can use a secondary color with red in it, like purple or orange.

i think vibrant would stick out more

as for colour scheme: green skin, red cloak/robe(bright or dark?) and dark purple hair. Would that work?

If you're going to do a red cloak on vibrant green skin and bright purple hair, darker is better or it will look like a mess of colors.

hmmm,

for skin (keeping in mind that as i play aos/40k i use gw paints) waagh flesh, caliban green wash, and then a lighte rgreen? (skarsnik maybe?)

for cloak i could do khorne red first, wash, layer mephiston red, wash again and then highlight wild rider red?

and for hair, i have no clue as i rarely paint purple.

Skarsnik is very pale, you'll want something more along the lines of Moot Green/Warpstone glow.

The weapon looks a bit bland. I'd add more detail to the hilt to make it a bit less of a solid yellow.

looking at warboss and warpstone, maybe i should swap em around ? warpstone first then warboss? warp is way darker.

Just finishing the base coats on my Black Templar. I wanted to create a squad full of complete zealots.

I want to freehand some basic art on his tabard. I need ideas. I'm thinking a sword vertically through a ork skull but I'm open to ideas.

You reaaaaally need to clean up first

hard to know what to suggest, is it done or WIP?
its a nice clean job of a basecoat, but needs more shading. washes + blends or edge highlighting

eg the skirt thing needs shading, and i'd be tempted to do something more interesting with the...umm.. tuning fork bit of his head (behind the eyes), like a colour blend.

So I'm building a land speeder for space marines and I'm trying the best way to do subassemblies for it. Any Ideas?

It's been washed multiple times and the metal's been highlighted, the rest of it needs some more highlights I agree. I don't want to try and blend anything on his tuning fork for fear of fucking up the fleshy bits all over it.

The skirt does need work, at the moment it's just a dark grey basecoat with a black wash, a blue wash and then another black wash over it.

I agree on the weapon, I just didn't want to add any more gold to the model. I might try and work in a silver or repaint the whole thing a starry blue.