WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

Anyone know what's best to get paint off pewter based models?

anything that can. the stronger the better. nail pollish remover works well.

I had one like that but ended up selling it because I didn't want to put in the time. Johnny looks like he approves though

this oddly makes me want to buy a scrap landraider like i planned on doing forever ago, how much did your friend ask you for it?

Landraider ... Landraider, oh fuck yeah I knew I forgot something!
Fuck my lazy ass.

>how much did your friend ask you for it?
Gave it to me for free along with a box of scrap marines in similar condition and his old bike actually.

He had got them all from a yet another mutual friend for cheap when he was saying how he was going to start collecting Dark Angels (this was right after their newest codex dropped), but later decided not to once he found out they didn't have the same feel as his old 'nids.

They were just collecting dust in his garage in some dark dresser drawer until he asked me if I wanted them, and I just couldn't let them sit there unloved.
Even though I think he was happy just have them hone, I'll probably buy him something soon to pay him back, probably some 'nid model like Hive Tyrant or maybe an Exocrine.

Similar story, I had bought him the old Dark Angel Battleforce (pic related) for his birthday but his interest in the Dark Angels had already waned by that point, so I ended up "trading" him a Mawloc kit for it since didn't have one yet.

Working on a custom hero forge miniature for a member of my D&D group.
Ignore the gross 3D printing artifacts. I couldn't be bothered to sand the model before painting.
It still needs highlighting and I need to figure out what I'm doing with the base. It has mushrooms and our current campaign takes place in the Underdark, so I'm thinking of painting a grey stone floor and trying my hand at some source lighting from glowing mushrooms, but I've never tried painting source lighting before and I'm not sure how hard it would be.
Any advice on shading red-toned skin for a more lifelike appearance?

Basic technique of base shade highlight will work well. Just get a red shade if you really want to be "lifelike", black shade will look a little off, though i have never used a heroforge character before, so the mold lines may make the shade act weird.

My latest piece, though i need to get some snow to base it with.

tell the truth now did you fap to this model?

>not fapping on your models as part of the sealing process

git gud

Funny enough, in the box of scrap marines were some of my favorites models of both my friend and our other mutual friend.

From left to right we got:

Chainsword Musashi, a calm and reserved veteran of the Deathwatch with more kills to his name than teeth on Tyrannofex. He had quite the rivalry with...

Chainsword Kojiro, one of my own models!
He was a hot-headed Blood Angel Captain who lived on the edge... until one fateful day where he tried to bitch-slap a Bloodthirster in the Assault Phase.
On the plus side, now I have a reason to remake him better, faster, stronger, and longer (the chainsword at least).
He also had the most bitchin' backpack ever; I really need'a get that back on him.

Lastly, we also have the venerable Mac the Knife, veteran of a thousand wars on a thousand worlds.
In his first action, he was fielded along with his Chapter Master Pedro Kantor and was made to witness the the secret, ancient strategy of the Crimson Fists: a phallic-shaped formation of Terminators.
Ever since that time, Mac had a thirst for the fury and frenzy of close combat. With his trusty combat knife in hand and his bayonet as sharp as his smile, he challenged foes from around the galaxy.

His most notable duels were against the Spawn of Cryptus, a terrible Tyranid Broodlord of untold power, and against Cassor the Damned, a rampaging Blood Angel Dreadnought laid low by the Black Rage.

While all of these he lost by a fairly large margin, his dreams never lay as shattered as his body. Through his hard work and sacrifice, he has ascended to the rank of Sergeant, and now leads the First Squad of the Crimson Fists 8th Company.
As his first requisition from the Armory, he ordered a bayonet, a combat knife, and a license to kill...

Would it be feasible to paint harlequin diamond patterns with an airbrush? Fuck that hand-painting shit. Where could I get masking tape small enough?

I use some double-sided 2mm tape from amazon when I repair/ replace broken phone screens.
It's fucking small. I bet it would work for your purposes. Or you might be able to find something similar.

Although user has incorrectly positioned the blades in terms of 40k lore, rhino blades are clearly based off the hedgehog blades the allies used in ww2 to get through the massive normandy hedgerows and they are positioned in this manner. So both of you are right.

Sorry for the sideways pic.

Washed and highlighted last night, will post updated pic when I get home from work tonight.

What do yall think? (Also colored the rune on the axe, and used a darker brown for the handle to keep it from blending in with the glove)

This is pants on head retarded.

Looks good user, nice coverage and steady placement. Look forward to seeing it washed and highlighted, will really make the beard pop.

>Anyone know what's best to get paint off pewter based models?

There are three factors you have to consider when choosing a paint stripper:

1). Is it safe?
2). Is it cost effective?
3). Does it work?

If you're willing to forgo #1 there, Goof Off is my go-to for tough-to-clean metal models. It's a little on the pricey side, and is very caustic, but it does an excellent job. Pure acetone nail polish remover, as suggested, at about 1/4 the price and does a good job as well, but it's not quite as strong as Goof Off; that means it excels at #2, is better at #1, but not quite as good at #3.

You made some Weabmarines and didn't make them the Emperor's Shadows? For shame, user.

I use Super Clean for my minis. Purple Power also works. They're both safe for pewter, resin, and plastic and they're biodegradable too

This is how you do combat re-purposed scythes.

Great work user.

>Painting an entire army in the scheme of some shitty Veeky Forums randomly generated chapter

Just wash the thing in nuln oil or army painter quickshade and I'm sure it will look great.
How do you plan to base it?
Also what is the model? I might like to use something similar in the future.

Those are from an old "How to paint space marines" book though

How do you like my dreadnought so far?

I've got it based with sand and some small rocks, and the mini is from Reaper, I think it's a dwarf grunt. Not entirely sure, he was a gift

He needs something more on his base I think.

Have you considered a runestone that recounts a tale of religious significance?

Other than that, pretty good.
I never noticed that SW Dreads have canine-shaped feet.

Now I'm angry.

What's the best primer for pre heresy iron warriors, FYI I'll be painting at least 45 tacticals and want them done quickly

Smelt some iron.
Now smash it into dust.
Mix it with Reaper paint black primer.
There you go.

I hate the clawed feet, but that's the model's fault, not your paintjob's

painting specific panels on vehicles with averland sunset today. should I be thinning the paint with water or lahmian medium? I've been using lahmian and been doing a 1 to 1 ratio, but to me it feels almost too thin.

Missile pod. Whoever said don't use clump foliage to use as smoke was wrong. I can't wait to paint it up.

>lahmian medium

Oh look at this faggot, too good to use water like the rest of us decent folk.

You know what pal, fuck you and your fancy ass paint thinners.

Fuck you straight to hell.

That looks pretty awesome. I am not usually into making munitions mid launch in my models, but this looks really nice.

I'm a shitty painter so I thought buying overpriced paint thinner might balance it out for some average results.

Tamiya makes masking tape for airbrushers in various widths and tack.

If you're not into experimenting with the painters tape people usually use for houses and cutting those yourself, Tamiya tape is about the best thing ever made.

>>I disagree, I use polyurethane primers through the 0.4mm needle all the time, works fine, but needs a good clean after use.
Just keep the pressure a little higher than normal.
Acrylic-Urethane primers made by Vallejo et. al. is not anything like actual urethane paints you dumb twit. Urethane paints are generally the auto paints you run through a *spraygun* not *airbrush*.

Just finished my deff dread. A few small touch ups left but otherwise complete.

Any way to ork up the base maybe?

That shit is excellent. I use it all the time with airbrushing and normal painting.

Awesome work!
>>Any way to ork up the base maybe?
Nuts and bolts and an oil puddle?

I have a deff dread that I based in black. I want to do a simple all over rust paint job but I've been avoiding it because I'm not sure how to start. What's the quickest way to "rust" it? Dry brush metallic and then sponge brown on it? I'm looking for fast and easy.

Deff dread guy here. I did brown sponge first and then metallic. Rust could go over that then if desired. The typhus corrosion/ryza rust combo (or equivalent) is really nice

What should I paint first? See filename

Paint the missile turret and then the 2nd Fleshhound from the left in the second row.

user, the Emperor's Shadows are an old chapter that were made by Victoria Lamb. They were featured in a Painting Guide book, whose name I cannot remember, and are technically canon.

I mean I was going to paint the whole squad at once, probably should of mentioned what squad should I paint...

godspeed orkkos

First time trying making a mold

>First time trying making a mold

Good luck, user!

>instructions on this greenstuff clearly say not to handle it with my hands
>"skin irritant"

So, food prep gloves to knead it then improvise some tools to sculpt or do I just have to wash my hands afterwards?

just got done painting my Calas Typhon

First time I'm proud of some minis. Do I deserve to be?

Sons of Medusa?

Invaders

I'm not sure why you have a deathwatch squad full of the same company (Is that a thing?), but they look quite nice. The basing looks weird though, it looks like you put some liquid brown stuff over the black plastic and that was it

Im not sure why he has a deathwatch squad not in black armor with chapter markings on the right shoulder pad.

I know they are his minis and he can do with them as he likes. but this is just raping the lore.

>raping the lore.

Is it, though?

Deathwatch were first introduced in Third Edition. You could either attach a Kill Team (Captain/Librarian + squadboyz) to an Imperial army, or you could place individual Deathwatch Veterans in your "home" army that represented former Kill Team members returning to service in their original chapter. As a "parting gift", they would pick one of the special ammunition types (Stalker, Kraken, Metal Storm, or Inferno) for their bolter for five points.

You couldn't just say you paid the extra five points and make every squadboy with a a bolt gun a DW vet, though - each such model was *required* to have the special Deathwatch shoulder pauldron. Presumably, the rest of their armour was repainted to match their chapter's colours.

I think you'd probably get the stink-eye for swiping a frag cannon from the Deathwatch armoury before you left, though.

Dwarf guy from earlier. Still open to suggestions.

What do yall think?

Aside from sideways, I mean. No fucking idea why my phone does that.

that's what I tried to represent. Returning deathwatch veterans. I agree about the frag cannon but fuck them

Solid man. Needs to fix the face and skin. You know eyes, and depth. It looks flat at the moment.

I can see that if it was not an entire squad of vets.

Had it been a unit where the sarge had deathwatch shoulder pad i can see it in very rare numbers.

I'm running Invaders chapter, a xeno-hunting imperial fists successor famous for their close relation to the deathwatch. Originally I thought it would be cool to just add a few random deathwatch pauldrons to my guys, but then the deathwatch codex came out and it was right up my alley...

i bought some flow aid. i havnt fucking touched the stuff. i also bought some brush soap. no idea about when or how to use it.

WHAT SAY THEE

They look quite nice, user. There's always room for improvement on technique (I might add in a touch more highlights), but the colors you've chosen interact nicely and will pop from a distance. I might personally have painted their hair brown to make it contrast the green, since as it stands the blonde color blends in with the brighter green. Regardless, they'll have a strong tabletop presence.

Now I've got my own questions for /wip/ . I'm looking to make a Genestealer Cult killteam. I want to really decorate them and make them unique though. I'm thinking something like Blanchitsu, where everything's some kind of ornate, malformed freak like pic related. Catch is, I've been out of the hobby for a few years and have no collection of bits to work off of. What are some good bits/ models you might recommend?

Yeah I agree with the face/skin suggestion. It's too dark looks unfinished. Other than that it looks great, the base looks "unfinished" also but that's just me, I'd paint it and drybrush it or something if it was up to me

eh..just wash and dont touch eyes.

Dont get me wrong i dig the paint job.

But from a lore stand point i would say you are best off keeping the deathwatch pads to a min and sprinkle them around.

Even if the chapter is known for its relationship with the death watch that dose not mean the deathwatch is going to take them all in and hand out gear like candy.

Got it, will definitely try working on that.

So on a scale of 1 to cancer how fucked am i for putting the ball of mixed stuff in my mouth to keep it workable longer?

Because this is what they had us do at the adepticon greenstuff class and i have been doing it for years.

Dont get it out that much. but every now and then ill fill a gap or sculpt a replacement bit for something that broke.

I like them. You should glaze the skin or use broader/subtler highlights. Try using some texture on the bases too. Otherwise they look smashing.

I cast for a living. Feel free to post any questions you have.

You cast those? Impressive.

Are you alex Bierdz?

I think I went a little out of my league going for the fists, yellow is tricky as hell and I am absolute garbage with highlighting.

any general advice would be great guys

>I cast for a living
where can I order 20 Johnnies

uh. What?

I like it, but the yellow could use some more definition, deeper shades to be precise.

Games Workshop has some Genestealer Cult models on their website. They're only available (as far as I know) in their boxed set Deathwatch Overkill. Hope that helps, or at least gets your creative juices flowing.

I like the paint job. Clean, but the weathering is well done, like he just got a new paint job but the last 20 minutes have ruined it.

The base could use some grass patches or something.

Look for things from Skaven, Dark Eldar, and Cult Mechanicus. Boxes like the Skaven Stormfiend and Dark Eldar Talos Pain Engine are great as base models

>uh. What?

He's asking about WIP's unofficial mascot, Johnny - the old Brother Craig model.

I like the gold but you got lazy with the base and the feet, look at the dude in the middle, his feet barely have any highlight.

You have the basic principle down actually, you just need to have finer highlights(thinner lines and not plain white) and clean up the shading with the base yellow

what could improve the base?

Looks neat. They're Invaders, yes? I'd recommend adding some weathering and maybe darkening down a bit (personal preference), but beautiful work as is. Keep it up user

user, there are only 11 Invaders. Where is the fluff saying that they are close to the DW?

...

Interior for my predator executioner completed

And terminator techmarine is just waiting around for the servo arms to arrive

/wip/, help me decide my next project!

strawpoll.me/11157761