Wip general

THIN YOUR POSTS

Got to pass thanks for the Contacta Professional Revell glue recommendations, this stuff is amazing.

And here are some of the Catachans to go along with the tank.

Actually, that would take more time. If I did what you suggest, I'd effectively be painting two miniatures instead of one miniature with two main colors.

With Averland Sunset, Mephiston Red and some patience I dont' see why this project is really that difficult. Both of those colors cover extremely well.

Excuse the shitty pics.

Expanding my Evil Sunz at a glacial pace. My fine brush is fucked so I can't do the flames today.

>Paint up first model in about 10 years
>It doesn't look completely shit despite most of your paints being ancient

Sure is nice. Going to pick up painting again now.

I deeply underestimated how hard it is to put etched brass.

Is it that bad, anons? : (
Should I commit sudoku?

Those guys look like they're dressed in velour and wield poop cannons

don't do it

Doesn't look awful... So nope.
Practice makes perfect user, do not worry, just keep going.

Reposting:

I'm looking at a brick wall right now.
Don't know what to do next.
In my opinion the lord heads (don't have normal ones right now, but I will buy some soonish) are not looking good.

I also attached the second wraithlord I'm experimenting with (no clean up so far, I'm sorry).
The not snake one should hover over the ground, not sure how I will make that work tho.

Problems for both of them: The back pieces, see picture, how to fill the gaps? And the heads. PLZ HALP.

Also thanks for responding earlier.

Velouranon here, I do really like the leaf motiff

What do you mean with etched brass?

Ah you mean exactly those

Also how bad is using this Blood Angel head on a sigmarine?

I'm using these etched brass.

Since those minis were already painted (and they were to plain for my taste), i had to paint this sprue of etched brass separately and then glue the leaf on them.

I'll make all my legionaries with the ivy/leaf motif, and those are unpainted, so it will be easier.
But it's a shame for these ones, it's not how i imagine they would be.

Did you bend and shape the brass on a spare separate pauldron before applying?

It looks like just another version of the sigmarine style helmet. It's not a great deviation, so it could work. If you're ok with Blood Angels Blood drops all over the helmet.

So another ork done and now for a pallate cleanser thanks to the white dwarf

just wanted to note how fucking huge this guy is, are all AoS minis that huge in comparison?

recently finished git

and one with suppa hot pants

I tried to shape on the pauldron itself before gluing.
I didn't though of using another pauldron. That is a good idea.

Chaos lord wip. Not sure what color to do the cape yet, but I'm leaning towards white, purple, or black.

Also thinking about making his helm bone colored but then I feel like I need to change the horns.

Did you take care of the cat hair yet?
Deep purple on the inside would make a good contrast with the red.

I literally just picked up some of these helmets with this in mind

Yeah it's hairless, I was leaning more towards black or purple so i think thats what ill go with.

No, hes actually huge even for a Bloodbound. Its because he is a slaughterpriest and Khorne makes those guys huge.

Lessons learned:

>Put flow channels on the highest points possible
>Use better gates than fucking legos
>remember to put mold release on when making the second half of the mold

I managed to salvage at least 1/3rd of the mold, so I can make one body at a time

Time to start on the new mold

Why are you casting Ork boyz? They have to be the cheapest and easiest troops to obtain.

Huge? Huge guts you say?

Not nearly cheap enough

Ork boyz are worthless on the table, and Ive never seen them cheaper than $1 per model (Even then theyre the most fucked up, heavily painted boyz youve ever seen), which is too much if I want to run say 180-300 of them

looks ace mate

I can also use ork boy bodies for

>Meks
>Weapon crews
>Burna boyz
>Lootas
>Kommandos

I've wanted to make a biker big mek and painboy for my biker mobs. Big Mek in progress.

Fucking this. It was too much spending 7 seconds in the archive and filsh up an OP actually made by humans?

on the plus side, that is some crisp detail. my first mold of a Dark vengeance cultist was a white blob shaped roughly like a man.

>Long story short, I have a Warlord Titan, graduation gift from family
>I can paint its metallic skeleton just fine, almost done with the legs.
>I have a problem though
>I'm Petrified of doing the Armor plates
>Basing it off of the Ember Wolves to go along with my World Eater's Great Crusade force
>Their scheme is deep red, silver lining, and vivid lava and ember patterns
>I've freehanded Harlequins before but this scale is intimidating
>No idea how to do lava patterns or big freehand, terrified to try for risk of fucking up
>Been putting this model off for a few months now due to fear
>Painting HH and AoS to distract myself
>Friends keep asking every other week how progress is going
>Biggest model my gaming group have ever seen
>They are very excited to see a Warlord finished and on table
>Feels like I'm letting them down by putting it off
>But scared of fucking it up
>Go online, see amazing titans
>#IWantToJoinThatClub
>Parents mention it when they visit
>While we aren't poor, I know they still were saving for one and a half years and gave up a vacation to be able to buy it for me
>Wanted to get me the biggest model they could to show how proud they were of me
>They know how much the model should mean to me
>They have seen nothing happen with it for 3 months
>Cant let them think they wasted the money or think I don't like it

Tonight, with some dedication (and some liquid courage) I'm going to attempt my first armor plate for my Warlord Titan. Something small, just to try to build confidence going forward. A little freehand lava and some reds and metals. But to do this I need to cross that gap of fear I have so I'm gunna try something off the cuff. On my way home from work I'm picking up a few paints, some primers, some painters tape and am going to go all out.

Anyone know of a good Lava crack or ember style tutorial for my titan that doesn't require an airbrush?

after the previous thread about tyranid basing I'm going to combine some of the woodland scenics autumn things like barren or orange trees, with their desert
hell of a lot cheaper than citadel basing kit to

Flakkadakka, noice one boss.

I got one for my bloodaxe that i need to finish, magnatized so i can replace it with a biglobba when nessicary.

youtube.com/watch?v=X61FV0a5-o0
check out the other painting videos on the channel

I love it, how stable is it though?

Does this count as WIP?

I believe in you user! Send us pics as you work on it! Always love to see a warlord in progress!

Thoughts?

Not stable at all! Gonna have to pin it to a biker base.

She's adorable.

Important tip, considering your fears, remember it's resin.
Stripping the armour plates to redo them is perfectly possible.

progress! blocking out the white and the metal, i'm going to paint hazard stripes on the extra armour . still thinking about the color for the top hatches (white or purple) and what to do with the extra armour on the front, it would look cool painted like marble but marble isn't really effective as armour

Thanks for posting the head so I know what we have to work with.

Cut the top half of the head off (the thinner part that makes it bowling pin shaped) and use some plasticard to make like a flared cobra hood around the sides?

This is amazing!

primary colors and airbrushing done, good god was it a lot of airbrushing.

...

>tried 5 times, theres no easy way to phrase this without sounding like a dick, sorry

was anime eyes intentional?

Purely unintentional. I can't do eyes for shit.

Is Astrogranite texture paint from GW a good way of doing concrete and other roads or am I fucked?

you can get textured mediums in different grades of roughness from any art supply store that are probably gonna be a much better deal.
Vallejo does texture pastes too.

That said, no for this particular thing they're not very good imo because you want an even surface.
The best I've seen was somebody mixing sand into mortar, casting a thin plate, then using a brass brush to roughen up the surface a bit and then breaking it and glueing it wherever.
Cheaper alternatives would be cork tiles or something along those lines.
You could also just glue down some fine grade sandpaper or try to glue fine sand down as even as possible if you are working on scenery.
You can also mix sand with your pant.

okay thats fine, in that case i'd probably suggest a flesh tone line across the lower part of the eye, just to make him look like the eyes are squinting a bit (he should be screaming with that pose so they should be really narrow)

cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/5ffe14a8877c19efcddc609312ced056.jpg

Damn. I'm trying to go for something like how this first base in the picture looks as well as the terrain. I'd be ok with something else if that's just a physical pay off that particular base, but when I paint administratum grey on my bases it just looks so flat.

I'm working on painting some stormcast eternals, these are the first minis I've ever painted so I can only compare to what I've seen itt and on YouTube. So far I've only really got the basecoat done, which was much more difficult to get a smooth even coat than I was led to believe imo. I've run into a problem with my leadbelcher however, it seems much darker than in videos and pictures, is this normal?

the squad's coming along nicely, shitty night photo tho

also one thing, do you think it'd be noticeable if all my action-pose/non-two-arms-for-bolter marines all wear beakies? would anyone even consider that? it'd be an odd possibly bad modelling decision

This is one of the GW plastic bases. The textured look it has is just due to drybrushing.

Anyway, if you want bases like that I'd thoroughly recommend looking at the products that are being made for Infinity and the stuff Anvil Industry sells.
There are a bunch of really good urban bases that are cheaper than the GW ones too.

Seriously though I don't think getting this would be hard.
If you mix water into milliput you get a think paste with a somewhat rougher texture.
You could cut boardwalks like this from foamcore, plastic card or mdf, carve the paving in and then cover it in a thin layer of milliput or something similar to give it a bit of texture.

Unless you want something really specific though I'd say getting resin bases might even be a better deal for your money vs time.

finnally you post again, last time you probably didnt read my post.

So ill ask again, what did you do for those lovely bases?

Also the marines look crisp as all, nice work user

It would seem a little artifical, but if you like that armor mark best why not?
You could also try getting your hands on some more mk6 stuff from bits sellers since the mk is not universally loved.
Or go full hog and get some FW mk6 dudes.

Having any number of the variant in your army makes total sense, having them all do something similar might look weird, but in the end you have to know what you like best.

I did use an airbrush for my lava, but it's doable without.

You are, however, going to need fluorescent paints. Regular colors don't cut it. I used model air fluo red layered over ferrari red and model color fluo yellow.

Cadianfag here posting from my phone. Excuse the slightly potato image.

For a while now I've had some rather badly painted tauroxes but no real motivation to do anything with them. When the Hellrain formation rules showed up I figured I might as well see what I could do to make it not shit.

I stripped it, tore off the sno-cat track pods and replaced them with some wheels from Zinge industries, and moved the hot shot volley gun array to the turret so it wouldn't retardedly shoot past the door. This required me to magnetize the turret, but no real challenge compared to getting the wheels to be straight, parallel and even. Green stuff is your friend.

I tried to do the old kasrkin paint scheme to differentiate it from my other vehicles. I'll try something similar with my scions, I think; it came out good.

Want more photos?

>it's upside down
...I'm not even sure how I did that.

The paint looks kinda caked on in some areas

GW mourn mountain snow + watered down guilliman blue + drybrushed praxeti white

A side effect of the fact that it's a repaint. The original was spray painted badly, and I wasn't able to get all the old paint off. I didn't want to use anything too strong, so I simply tried to blend it into the new scheme.

Find a terracotta tile, piece of sand stone, anything with the texture you like that is flat (I would suggest a kitchen whetstone for this desu). Get some /miliput. Wet the texture, push the putty into it as even and as flat as you can, the bigger the area the better. Let it dry. Now you have a mild you can use to make the texture, and cut to whatever shape you want, as thin or thick as you want.

Here's my cultists, still have a bunch of stuff to do.
What would be a good color to highlight the black cloaks and such? Some light grey?

Light grey or midnight blue. You gonna put a wash on those skin tones?

Yeah, the skin is just one layer of bugmans glow atm, I'm gonna do it properly after i finish all the other details.

Attempting to paint up some tau in Sa Cea sept colors.

I am not a fan of how the cloth and the gun blend in together.

Was thinking or going with a kakie cloth but i like the look of the gray.

I tried black on the darker parts of the gun but it still looks very offputting.

Though about doing it in leadbealcher but tau do not have a lot of flashy metal showing.

What do?

you could alternate the black and blue parts on the gun.
Just keep the black on the grip blue and put the black somewhere else to balance it.
Or paint the fingers of the gloved blue too.

just lighten up the dark grey a bit on either the gun or the cloth (the gun would probably look better) and that would give you a different look without much change to the overall look of the scheme.

It isn't difficult, just time consuming and requires a little more care and patience than usual. The chap I was responding to was saying I should do everything on the yellow quarters to completion, then go back and do everything on the red quarters to completion. I opined that that was a bad idea.

Blue fingers would seam like armored bits to me.

I am going for a quick paint job because i plan on using army painter dark tone on these guys to get them done quick. After a dullcoat i can highlight as time permits to make them a little more fancy.

I had thought of putting some brown on the hands and the boots like pic related. But something just seams off about that to me.

Red covers better over yellow than the other way around.
Painting yellow first means you can be as sloppy as you want then go back with your red base and paint a clean checkern. Stay inside the lines while painting the reds and you are good.
If you prime white and use inks and glazes painting the yellow should be fairly trivial.

Kakie cloth would solve my issues. But i like the dark grey cloth a little more.

crap. forgot pic.

desu I think you are overthinking this quite a bit.
If you push the highlights on the fingers a shade lighter you'll get the visual distinction you want.

Or as the other user mentioned, do something like on the standard Tau scheme. They got a mix of sand and terracota, just add a darker shade of blue to the greyblue in the same way and use this where you have a problem with the contrast.

This came in while i was waiting for a captcha. How about using a dark royal blue instead of a khaki?

hey guys, a little out of topic, but I don't know where else to ask:

I need a case for my miniatures, I'm gonna use magnets for it, what do you think is better between those two?

amazon.co.uk/dp/B00EH9121G/ref=dra_a_cs_mr_hn_xx_P3033_100?tag=dradisplay0bb-21&ascsubtag=42dd41985165ad404bc52ee831b65cc5_S

amazon.co.uk/Aluminium-Flight-450x310x240mm-Internal-Divider/dp/B00BEHASU0/ref=sr_1_18?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1472853775&sr=1-18&keywords=aluminium case

first one looks like have more space also for tools, dices, paints, etc, but it's made in poor plastic; the other one looks less handy but it is in solid aluminum.
What do?

Any good tips for putting good-looking 3d flames on a model, for flamethowers, brushfires and the like?

are the Army Painter color primers worth their price?

also, any recommendations of a good generic spray primer easily found in Berlin?

You can get answers to your questions when you learn how to take a vertical picture, young man/woman/non-gendered-being.

Just started painting my first miniatures and I'm worried they're not gonna come out great, I can't reproduce the crisp lines I see itt or at my lgs, and in some areas the paint is a bit too thick. Something I noticed far too late.

What do you guys think ? Sorry for image quality all I've got is my phone

Top shop for a first try. You will hate it years from now, but the whole point of the first try is to do it wrong so you don't do it again.

You're within the lines, you're not streaking, and it is a bit thick in places but you're not losing any real detail. Wash it, take the time to clean it up, and keep practicing.

I did the same exact thing with mine and it a purple cape it looks pretty good give me a minute to go dig him out and find them

Where are the places that you see it being thick? I know it's not shown in the pic but I ruined his parchment with paint, seriously just trying to basecoat it. But I want to know what other areas, the shoulder probably? I planned on shading everything and then doing some of the easier edge highlights (ie. Not the frigging lightning bolts). Eshin grey probably goes best with the black I'd wager. Anyway, thanks for the constructive criticism! The painting aspect was keeping me out of the hobby for some time and I was beating myself up over it not looking fantastic (I think the models look great and want to do them justice)