WIP: Work in Progress Thread

Don't be a pussy paint his pupils. I believe in you.

Actually, trollkin canonically have monochromatic eyes (all parts of the eye are the same color, in this case white), so I actually won't be pupil-izing any of my trolls.

I can do pupils, though. Here is my Wizard-man proof.

I think I might go back and add some more shade to the leather, but since I'm doing a whole army the leather might just end up being a bit bland in general. Have to balance between making everything perfect and getting everything done in a reasonable amount of time.

And, yeah, gonna re-evaluate the steel in the future.

Thanks!

>Actually, trollkin canonically have monochromatic eyes

I was just wondering if that were the case while I was reading , and *almost* googled it, but I was too busy putting this post together. Thanks for following up!

>I'm sure we'll be able to survive a single thread without a wall of links in the OP.

Yeah, but if it helps one newcomer who happens by Veeky Forums in the middle of the night, wouldn't it be worth it?

>someone make one with the copy paste shit for fucks sake

Sure! In the name our most holy saint:

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Panther, I need Charlie Zone status. Report!
youtube.com/watch?v=2MQPWE_M_EM

Can I use agrax earthshade to dirty up metal already darkened with nuln oil, or should I just throw some devlan mud on the legs? How do I do battle damage on something already metal colored?

EEERE WE GO

I don't have any WIP just yet, but I'm looking for a bit of advice or guidance.

So, I'm looking to start a Black Templar army and I was just curious if anyone has any experience/suggestions/images with kitbashing Space Marines with Warhammer Fantasy stuff?

To get an idea of what I'm doing: I'm fielding about 750-1000 points--infantry and rhinos. I'm kitting the majority of them in close combat weapons and bolt pistols.

I was thinking about using Bretonnian and Empire bits to add more flavor to my Space Marines, but it appears GW has removed Bretonnia from their site and the only "Empire" kits I found were Devoted of Sigmar and Freeguilds--the former lacking in kits and the latter are clad in tights. Not feeling the tights, but I'm thinking about using flagellants as neophytes(scout marines). Opinions? How about men-at-arms for neophytes? How would all of this scale next to a Space Marine--would it be comparable to a scout marine next to one?

Definitely a lot to consider before I start buying stuff and any help will do.

Guys, thinking of getting some wargamesfactory zombies to use as plague zombies for renegade and heretics 40k army.
What do you think?
Pic related, but not mine.

Aesthetically, it classes with 40k a lot. Also not sure how they scale with 40k models, you want about guardsman sized.

I've only done it for chaos, but there are some damn cool swords from fantasy, like a zweilander. Everything past melee weapons won't work too well.

They're 40k scale, yea. But I'm at loss besides getting guardsmen and painting them green.

My first painted model, sorry for the shit pic!

Oh, definitely. I have no use for any other weapons in Warhammer. If I find just the right models, I intend to affix a bolt pistol or maybe sling a bolter to their back.

As for bits, I was thinking more along the lines of embellishments or maybe heads--if I can find the right size.

Mantic sells (or at least sold) plastic guardsman zombies that you could use. I know that at least one other H&R user has used them.

truescale, not heroic though.

Very nicely done! I would say all you have left to do now is kill yourself for playing Tau.

That looks really good so far! I love the stencil work. With that said, I think you can really elevate it with some strategic highlighting, maybe a couple lights/lenses on the drones or thrusters.

is it worth it to buy more paints if i'm only going to be using them to paint maybe, 5 or 6 marines at most just to use as display bits or should i see if i cant get someone to paint them/borrow their paints for me for cheaper
my current color pallette is all reds, blues and purples, while the marines i want are yellows and blacks

are they the last miniatures you'll ever paint in your life?

You realise that the midnight sky is a deep blue rather than black right? Look up when you're in a rural area, and you'll see.

The new Kharn is a ridiculous 60 bucks inaustralia. So I converted the free white dwarf mini into Kharn.

I scoured my whole collection for a chain axe and had to resort to cutting up an ork choppa and a chainsword to make one.

It was a fun learning process, but trying to do fine gradient colors while on a time budget simply doesn't work, seems like my painting style has evolved into heavy layering and high contrast highlighting, which looks nice from afar, but the general messiness and brush marks become really obvious and ugly when up close.

Not to mention these models have too much random trinkets and bullshit on them, so I can never paint them efficiently.

Maybe it's time to learn proper blending and feathering, but there is simply no way that I'll be able to paint a whole squad with blending.

That's a big hand

Also you really need to thin your paint

Looks like shit desu

Planning to use the Wrack as the base to make a rogue blank to count-as a culexus assassin, yay or nay?

I can get behind the idea, I think the hardest part is gonna be rigging up an Animus Spectrum for the lil guy though.

You know they're finecast right?

Wracks got a plastic kit friendo

I've been stripping models and waiting for some bits to arrive from Forgeworld.
These guys have all been through a round GreenStuff stripping and a second of Super Clean, yet I can't seem to get it all off. At least I'm at the point where I can do a new basecoat without ill-effect. I hope.

Anyway, these boys (and the ones still waiting for a stripping) are all future Night Lords. I'll be adding VIIIth Legion iconography, more wicked looking blades (probably from the Dark Elf Corsair kit), and fun trophy bits like skulls and chains and such. Suggestions on what to add are very welcome.

Well slap my ass and call me Sally, I got good news for a friend then.

Cheers m8.

Thousand Sons user returns for answers

I actually started purchasing supplies, including most of my paints but I still have no idea how I wanna base this army

Is Thousand Sons blue/gold too contrasting to put them on on Snow?

Pic for attention, not mine

Use pic related

to get something like this

See, that just seems so...forced? Just like the lava landscape thing.
Ahriman was sent to collect all the spells ever, so it stands to reason he would end up in some strange places....like snow? lol

Infinity JSA

If I've been collecting T-Sons, I'd surely keep them with egyptian theme, because that's the biggest flavour of that chapter.
However, if he/you want to do snow, just go ahead for snow.

I think that is part of my issue. I LOOOVEEE the look of Thousand Sons, but fluff wise these guys have been sent to the absolute ends of the universe attempting to collect basically everything.

Snow bases sound great in my head, with the whites/blues mixing with the Blue/Gold of the units...suppose all i can do is a paint a few up and see what happens

what about snow on the Egyptian panels!!

What about Snow and ice covered rocks with Lava rivers, with Egyptian Obelisks/Ruins on the large pieces

Was thinking of adding a Vindicare to my grunt-heavy Tau as support, I do love me some snipers. I rummaged through my bitzbox and I have no extra Tau models.. but I have a single kroot carnivore. It's fated.

Kroot Headhunter countsa-as Vindicare. Big fuckoff gun, warpaint, perhaps cloak and a belt full of severed heads all with a bullet hole right between the eyes. Sound cool? Any suggestions on how to make it look and feel the part?

I have been thinking of making a Raptor cult of Slaanesh for some time now and then GW goes and gives Raptors and Warp Talons to assault from Deep Strike with a Lord in toe. I couldn't be happier

Decided to quickly finish up KDM Candy and Cola before I move on the final model in the AoS commission.

looking alright. Though, the only thing I can really see it the Yaoxie, and it could be cleaner (Those spots where the wash pooled up)

I've always loved the look of Blood Angels in purple/Slaaneshi-colours.

I didn't want to cover up dat...details. Also the original cloth piece was really squared at the top, and there was an annoying connection piece sculpted across the lower back. So I cover that up with a fur pelt.

So, most of the Skin on my Throgg conversion is done. I need to make the club complete, as well as the thing he's standing on. The teeth are still in progress as well.

Though, I do need some help with one thing: His scales. What should I do with his scales? Any ideas, tips and/or comments and critiques would be helpful.

You aren't going to put washes on the inside of the cockpit?

New kharn looks amazing, too bad they didn't remake the berzerkers while they were at it.

About your mini, be careful because your paints are looking pretty thick in various places. You should really basecoat gold with something like vallejo heavy brown to avoid having to pile it on and still getting splotchy patches like on the chain axe grille.

Dude, they're metal. Use acetone and each model will be 100% clean in seconds. Do remove the bases first or they'll melt and wear gloves because it's basically alcohol on steroids and will dry out your skin like you wouldn't believe. I'm talking lizard scales flaking off.

Armies don't really choose where they fight and snow can work fine with blue and bone. It'll just be quite bright.

Don't worry about basing until you've painted a squad. You'll likely change your mind. Personally I'd go for either something dark like an urban setting or something green like a jungle.

Fine conversion- in many ways I admire the simplicity over a lot of ugly new GW models that have to cram every nook and cranny with detailing.

That said, you really need to thin your paints- and I'm not memeing here. There's not a lot of textural consistency in the skin, and there's an ugly sheen to the chainaxe from the thick paint. Get some green stuff and dunk the guy.

Painting up a Daemonhunter my dad made a few years back

...

Working my way through the whole gene stealer cult. I fucking love using Tamiya clear red for blood effects.

The blue highlights are looking really thick on the genestealers. Maybe put small white dots on their boils to make them look extra gross.

Yeah, the contrast is too high, it needs a few blue glazes over the edges to smooth it out.

Rule of cool bro. Worry more about what looks cool and less about what tickles your tism.

Are those white highlights on the staff topper or did you actually manage to get it that CHROME?

>Using a white basecoat
>Even the tiniest of areas you don't pain or paint too thin shine out in comparison to the rest of the model
>Showing the whole world what a shitty painter you are

Why go on?

I went silver paint, nuln, silver, then Sharpie on the edges (the pen tip is way too thick for detail work though or I'd use it all the time)

Massive curly hair/10, i really hope it doesn't come from where i think it comes, user.

Post palettes.

prime black

>paint too thick
>DUNK HIM IN GREEN STUFF

Yes, I know what you meant, but I'm a dick on an image board.

Patriarch looks good so far man.

>dry palette

lmao

Thin your paints

>Oh boy it's time to paint my old metal storm troopers
>Open carrying case to grab them
>Regular guardsman sitting in one of their spots
>can't find the 5th Storm trooper
I guess it's time to tear apart my apartment...

Oh found him in a box of necromunda dudes, crisis averted

I'm in the process of painting my very first set of minis. It's the Dark Vengeance box I got on the cheap and I'm using 50 cent Apple Barrel acrylics from Walmart.

I post progress once in a while, for anybody who remembers, so that you guys can call me bad and I can learn some tips.

Here's some progress.

First model I ever painted. Sorry for the light, it is better irl.
The skeleton , base and swords still need to be painted obviously. The spirits still need a bit of light on the crests.

How am I doing?

Back view. I tried to aim for a dry blood color.

>dry blood color.
But dried blood is much more brown. That blood looks very fresh.

The guy with the sword needs a few touch ups, mainly another layer of white on the respective parts and a wash applied to both the cloak and the white. Your terminator looks absolutely awesome on the other hand.

Anyone have digital Adeptus Mechanicus painting guide book? Didn't find it in the OP links at all. Thanks in advance

I'm making my Imperial Guard-playing friend cry by getting MOAR LOBBAZ

They don't get shredded by wyverns?

May be my bad, but looking on google for dry blood returns this. I tried to go for this color, obviously less transparent. A dark blood.

And also IRL it looks drier

Add a touch more green for a dried blood color.

t. artfag.

bit of a weird one, but a guy over here coolminiornot.com/forums/showthread.php?54409
actually did an assessment of painting blood (or even with blood)

Typically blood gets more and more brown over time, so I guess the truth is it depends how recently that blood had the opportunity to dry!

Frankly I think the colour you have now is much nicer than going browner.

My latest plan for an orky distraction carnifex is this, three killsaw-meganobz with Mad-Dok Grotznik (I feel the new gw doktor is cyber enough to play the part.)

Put them in a truck, throw them at enemy, 24-32 powerklaws on the charge...

He refuses to play wyverns since he thinks they're too ugly. And frankly, they only wound on 6's even if they have shred. But they would get a lot of dice, so I dunno.

Also building a new Warboss Kaptinn for my freebootas. Using Kaptinn Badrukk for the body and some alternative gear.
Gonna make the base into wood flooring so that the Kaptinn fits in while standing atop his ship...

... Da Fing'r O' Gork

>one down a hundred to go

Sounds like your typical wargamer to me.

Guy I play with shreds an entire mob of boys with three of them. With a good enough blast and close enough boys with twin linked, he gets about 50+ hits with shred that ignores armor.

Boyz, yes of course.
They're practically designed to kill boyz.

But here's the thing:
Artillery crews, like the grots up there, use the toughness of their guns when being shot at.

Toughness 7 Grots.

As others have stated, Mantic is the way to go for great zombies (some of the best out there for the price you pay!). If they fit the 40k standard is up to you, conversion is always a trick, personally Id keep them as they where.

I'd pay 20 dolas if it was on canvas.

also this:

You should aim for a glossier look, like they're floating globs of liquid blood.

With shred and the lack of a save, you're gonna still be missing a lot of crew grots, or the entire unit.

love the base you fixed for him

and ship is just mindblowing cant wait to see finished model

Great base work, love the cammo, and for your first model you should be really proud.

But next time, try to highlight and shade each layer of color. Our job as hobbyists is to create the illusion of depth on our models. This is achieved by adding layers upon layers, creating deep shades, and bright highlights, to make a model look as realistic as can be, or sometimes to create effects such as a "cartoony look".

Sure. But a lobba and the gun crew cost 18 points. The unit of 5 costs 90 points.

If my opponent dedicates their wyvern to shooting out my cheap-ass grots, my boyz will have the time to get up close and personal to them. All in all it's a fair deal.