WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

Where do you store your paint? I'm slowly amassing a collection of tackle boxes, and NONE of them are large enough to store my paint upright in the trays. I could put them in the bottom, but I'd rather not store them sideways and swing 'em around... I don't have a desk to paint at, I do it at my kitchen table for lack of space, otherwise I'd just set up a rack

It's looking good so far, man.

As the opposed answer to this guy: None of my local stores offer a discount to Citadel products. In practice, it's still cheaper, because they don't charge for shipping and I have no GW store except in the city (too far to matter). Online sellers taking 20% off is normal, but I'm not familiar with LGSes doing it.

>Is it normal for stores to offer 20% off all GW/Citadel products?
25% is the standard.
Virtually any shop do those kind of discount.

Those discount don't apply to the web-only stuff, where the is usually only 10% less.

Quick comparison.

... People from okkaland.

1d4chan.org/wiki/Fags_of_Veeky Forums

It's a very same-y palette, I'd consider adding some cooler colors. The washing is also a little muddy looking, but it's hard to really tell with the flash washing everything out. 10/10 musical taste tho

Interesting. Before I moved my FLGS didn't offer anything but had a gigantic selection of everything. I just moved and the place a block away from me with a tiny selection doesn't offer anything, so I guess I'm just driving the extra 5 minutes for 20% off

Sheet Styrene.

>tfw when bored
>lets clone some stuff
Sorry for the shitty the image, I took it with my phone

>clone some stuff
What, did you cast it yourself or something?

Oyumaru+Greenstuff/Milliput

I'm sorry user, but it's a recast.

Paint it and then compare, I want to see how good of a recast it is.

Trying to give this Dreadnought a worn look with a dry brush and Ironbreaker. How I do?

So I've finally bought some tyranids off ebay because I want to start collecting and get into 40k.

I'm fairly familiar with the universe from reading and the dawn of war games but this is my first attempt at painting the figurines.

Any advice on the colour scheme or ways to improve would be really appreciated. Are the claws too contrasting? The idea is that they are an off shoot army adapted to jungle world environments.

I get a jungle world vibe from that. Though would try to make it look more "rough." Trying using Agax Earthshade or maybe Reikland Fleshshade washes to give it a bit of a gritty look.

Adobe on how to paint polymer furniture? Slight grey color to the stock and handguard and black on the metal parts or do you think it would be better to play with different sheens?

Agree with this. Darker is always more cool. Give them an Agrax or a Nuln coat imo.

It's very Christmas

looks good user

Cardboard box

ok yeah i'll look into some other washes. All I have is red and green ones that seem to do very little when put over the top of the same colour foundation.

Think my brother has some old catachan jungle fighters i could potentially mutilate and incorporate into the bases of some other pieces once I work out how to make convincing jungle bases.

^ Agreed. Though would put Agax for sure on the lighter colours such as the claws. Though play with both washes and see which one you want to use.

Nuln and Agax should be in every painters tool kit.

Take mine for example. Used Leadbelcher for the silver bits and two washes of Nuln Oil just to give it the oily gritty look. Though I could have easily made that look more rusted with Reikland Fleshshade. Agrax is great though for copper or gold looks.

Nail Polish racks, care of Amazon or Ebay.
Perfect size for most paint pots/droppers.

That's actually a new one, thanks user.

Lads, I have a question for you all; what kind of effects can I do/get from using washes or glazes with an airbrush?

I feel this is close to done but can't think of what else I need to do to it.

You could probably dry brush the red in the plumes.
I like the tone on the armour.

Oh, shit, totally forgot about that, I meant to give it a wash.

I heard something about the 'Super Clean' engine degreaser getting recalled.

If anyone still has that stuff can I get the active ingredient?

drybrush it white. clean up your whites on the loincloth part, and the rests on the polearm handle and scabbard. otherwise lookin gewd.

Stop posting recast shit ffs.

I did thin the paints, but either I didnt thin them enough or my shitty photo made it look bad. Im going to make a lightbox. Ill also have some highlighting and washing done.

>bitching about content of others' posts while not contributing anything of his own

Retailers can get their web-store exclusive stuff? I thought that meant you could only get those from directly ordering from them, I'll have to get my flgs to to get me some of that shit if it's not the case. If I'm gonna pay full price for anything gw, might as well help out the the flgs I guess.

Worked on a simple conversion for my Culexus Assassin, he's meant to be a rogue blank who escaped an Imperium experiment facility. Went full edge-lord on this guy and proud of it.

Who the fuck wears a cloak while being shirtless?

this is probably one of the more interesting recast pics/posts. At least its not a bunch of storytime failure and garbage casting. Also what this guy said

>Want to buy myself something cool for b-day
>can't decide between Mallifaux starters and AoS Starters

soo many possibilities, send help

>can't decide between Mallifaux starters and AoS Starters
I'd do Malifaux

one of my local shop is throwing out all GW products, so they are offering a discount of 30%

The cloak is very Tetsuo, which is ironic.

Raziel does, well it's sorta a scarf and it hides his no jaw but hey it's not a terrible look
cool looking mini overall

Aos a million times over

Get me a squad of fire warriors would ya?

Why?

if your local meta was mainly WHFB it's not hard to imagine that you've lost a lot of business in the last few months.
Carrying GW stuff takes up a lot of shelf space. If you don't make money off of it that is better used for something else.

I quite enjoy that system, played a few games with my mate's models, but starter I'd like to get comes out in 3 months, so I'd have to buy something else just for sake of preparing and learning. Still, it's only 4-6 models and should be done fast.

I already have maggoth lord and blightkings i won in competitition, still in boxes. Not sure if I should try to exchange it for dinosaurs/trees or just keep going with them. All 3 armies sounds and looks neat.

Spot on.

>implying there was business to begin with

So, I asked my local GW if they were interested in having a Slaughter priest painted up after the GW guide, and they were quite enthusiastic to have a mini to show people.
here's what I managed.
I followed the WD step for step.
The cloth around his back has stark highlights, such as the WD suggested.
Thoughts?
(1/2)

(2/2)

Why would they lose a shit tonne of business? Wouldn't a majority of the money come from model sales anyway?

What rock did you hide under when AoS was released?
Aside from the fact that very few people will buy miniatures for a game they can no longer play, the backlash and frustration with GW was huge.

Don't see how that need explaining.You kill a game, you kill the community and you lose customers.

For some odd reason, AoS booting up just got rid of the more trollish like people. unwashed neckbeards etc.

They went and played ninth age. We've got plenty new people coming in and enjoying AoS. Far more than enjoyed WHFB back when that was a thing.

Well I can't comment on that.
But the example given was that people played mainly WHFB in the local meta. AoS clearly targets a different audience.
Depending on where your store is located you just might be fucked.

Can someone post one of the good 'white marines' quick guides? Might grab the Killteam box and I want to do a quick paint of the marines to borrow to visitors for games of Killteam.

i can confirm i started AoS despite hearing negative things and found it a fuckton easier to play than 40k.
i mean i still love 40k but i like how with sigmar you dont need to look up a rule which directs you to four more rules across three supplements to see if your guy hits on a 5 or a 6, or if his charge across terrain was difficult or dangerous and what type of alien grenade his opponent is throwing corresponds as a frag or demo charge and if their STR is higher then your LD you cant forget to roll for morale but ONLY if you've lost greater than 25 percent of the current squads current force in the current phase, and then only if theyre outside the fearless bubble of your commisar AND THEN only if the commisars morale isnt broken, in which case you see my point

Flesh and cloth highlights are a little rough in contrast. Could've used a little bit of layering so soften the transition. High contrast is fine on metal and hard surfaces, but on soft ones it needs to be smoother.

Base is also a bit plain.

I'll agree with you, regarding independent stockists, I've spoken with a fair few indie store owners, and they all bemoan the time AoS hit them.
That being said, I find it equally to blame on the up-tight nerds that went as far as burning their whfb armies in "protest".
AoS isn't as in depth as whfb with maneuvering, but it's a fairly fun game.

Every stylistic decision has been made to conform to the WD guide. This very much goes for the base too.

hmm, now I actually got interested in 40k...

My Vallejo black has gone extremely gloss, both bottles of them. Anyone have the same issue? how do I fix it? The paints are a bit old...

one of recent nobz I've painted

amazing.
try shaking it, maybe with an agitator- i think the pigment settles out after a while if you dont use it, which can leave it glossy.

If you're planning on varnishing later it shouldn't matter too much.

I just painted one too, and I too picked that combination of torso, arms and back piece. I guess this means we are best friends now.

great job. Post more

Except that most of the WHFB community were not customers. Many had their armies for years and very rarely bought anything. Very few new people were taking it up so sales were tiny.

Exactly.

thanks anons! glad ye like them. And I think I remember yours, Bad Moons, wasn't he?

also postin other two form that batch

...

Resized, properly photographed, not rotated and nicely painted. You are truely a /wip/ gentleman and scholar.

Kind Regards,
user

The "unwashed neckbeards" were just a vocal minority.
I know of plenty of people who realized the fate of their game when AoS dropped and calmly and silently switched systems.

That is some seriously tight shit, I ordered some oryumaru bricks fucking years ago but never got around to using them. Any of tips/tricks to getting that kind of detail fidelity out of them?

Nice! It looks more 'aged' than actually worn with scuffs or scratches, but it does look good.

>that hair on the claw
You're triggering my autism

Reminds me of Gon.

painting some chaos marines.
kinda regret choosing white but I've gone too far now.

>I know plenty of people
>honest!

are you donald trump?

wtf I hate trump now

use some praxxi white!

wtf I'm so tired of this "meme" now

Haven't posted mine yet, so nope. Lovin that rusty iron. What is it? Brown with metal highlights?

brown drybrushed with two orange tones, it was too strong so I had to wash it with agrax two times, And metal highlights, so you guessed right.

I wanted weapons to look like a skull banner that guy with PK has.

Well the range changed in general as well. I wanted to do a display army a few months after AoS release and struggled to find a lot of the models I wanted so I just scrapped the idea and did a 40k one.

I'll be gentle as some other anons may not be, despite temptation to spam nasty words in caps.

The first thing before base colours is check all mould lines, there are thin plastic lines running down the legs, you need to scrap these off so they are flat to the surface of the model.

The are also on the ball parts that stick out the backpack and probably many other places.

Thin your paint a bit more, or put less on the brush. Certainly only put a little bit of paint on the model at a time.

Don't dip your whole brush in, only ever dip your brush half in and wipe the excess off on a piece of plastic. This will let you control how thickly you paint and stop you ruining your brushes. Covering the whole brush in paint causes the bristles to splay out randomly and makes it harder to paint fine details.

The paint should be thinner. We say about the consistency of milk. You can use water, but "acrylic thinner" is a type of spirit that will be much better as it will flow better and have a better pigment.

Try and get some wash round any place where there's some detail so the shade makes it stand out, like the balls and spikes on the backpack.

Otherwise a good start, the control of just painting detail lines is looking good.

>Pussy

Bought a riptide off my mate.
Too big for me to dunk it and strip it so I'm having to try and paint over it.

Finding it a bit difficult.

>paint over it

dude, split him and leave it in brake fluid overnight. Gonna save you a lot of frustration.

Shove your trips up your arse faggot

Use lego (or similar) for the structural framework. Also you'll have to press it a little, I recommend those smooth pieces, finishing tiles I think it's the name
Make two molds parts for each piece you want to recast, chose what will be the axis, this is as important as how much greenstuff/milliput you'll use
First make one mold part, then (with the original piece still on the first) make the second, then repeat the first. Repeat this process a couple of times (2 for each part) this will help a lot with the mold lines
I use 40/60 -50/50 greenstuff/milliput standard and then 100% greenstuff to fix mistakes (usually because sometimes greenstuff/milliput isn't very fluid and doesn't fill all crevices in the mold)

This worked for me. The model is still unfinished, it doesn't have the backpack neither the cables that go to the weapon, but I was bored and literally only took me 2 days to do 6 models

I'm mainly doing this as a test because my brother wants to heavy modify his tau battlesuits but it's scared as fuck of fucking up the originals so I was testing how to clone (sorry, recast, English is my 4th language) on small models and I got carried away

The weapon doesn't look right though because I didn't made several iterations like with the other parts. The chest also was full greenstuff because it was the first piece I made and later realized greenstuff/milliput works better and is cheaper

Good luck and be patient