WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

Still too early to tell.

Be sure to thin ya paints m7, rule of 3. Three thin coats to make it look smooth but solid. You are also working on black, so if you throw bright colours (lets say white for example) base it with a neutral colour first like grey, then white over top once it dries so the white sticks out.

Thanks, I have been trying to thin my paints but am a bit unsure of how much I thin them. I feel like I did good on the silver pauldron though.

You want the constancy of milk, or little less. If you paint over your mini and see that the base is still showing through, that's fine. Just make sure you get it even, let it dry, then paint another coat. That's when the rule of 3 kicks in. Now, you don't need to follow it, personally I like it. But some just do 2 coats, some 4.

Skim or whole milk?

Still working on my grey knight allied knight.

You actually thinned your paints!

Skim milk. Err on the side of thinness. You can always add more layers, but you can't take them off.

That looks really good, keep it up.
His Sword looks like a tie.

hah. I know. My dad said the same thing when I showed him the pic.

actually, do you think adding some white lighting climbing up the blade would help it from looking so much like a tie?

Local dude charges the price of the model, this is in Kingston.

Whatever the white on the leg is it looks sloppy af.
But overall the color scheme (With a LOT of highlighting) could look good.

Rakarth Flesh always looks awful in photos for some reason. There's a little on the kneepad that I'll be repainting over. But like I said, no light.

"Lot of highlighting" is the plan, though I'm not exactly sure how on a few sections of it. We'll see, though. For the time being, I have a pile of Marines to do.

What's the site of the chinese guy to order models?

ebay?

Nice try gw

Gsc character progress.

The primus is maybe 3/4s done. The magus is complete.

fucking sexy user, though your blending on the cloth could use some real work, do you have a wet palette?
i really like the use of the phosphor pistol as well

what's a good complementary color for light purple/dark pink?

I'm fucking paranoid, so I half assed some lightning.

Yellows, golds and greens, but I'd have to see the shade of light purple your talking about.

the pants on this guy.

apologies for the shit photo as well.

Does Anybody know where i can find heads like the helmets in pic related?

The helmet could be proxied using Skitarii Vanguard heads as a base and greenstuff-ing a Brodie helm over the top.

What part of the model are you painting the complimentary color?

on that particular model, not any part. Some of the genestealer cultists has robes next to their pants, however, so I wondered if I should keep the color the same or use another color to support it.

When will gw make templars again.....

Ended up with a hanmer ts his loadout

i think i'm getting the hang of yellows.

I have to paint a GW modular city scape table. You know, the big 6 2x2 square table? Would I be able to get away with Walmart paint on this one? We want it to look good, but we don't want to break the bank doing it.

I am thinking of getting an airbrush after I spent 30 minutes painting a base of averland sunset on 3 space marines.

What are some good ones? I know very little about airbrushes.

Are the GW videos a good beginner guide? Finished assembling my first models and I kinda want to follow the guide for painting a Taurox with a slight change of colours. As far as I can tell the secret is to be as neat as possible?

yes
even when you're well into the hobby the GW videos are still good reference guides

they are usually good, but some are more beginner friendly than others

>Thin your paints just a little
>Multiple thin coats is always better than one thick one
>Always be as neat as you can
>Make a shrine and pray to Saint Rhodes every day

And if you ever want to try again, 91% isopropyl alcohol available at any grocery store, near the medical supplies, can remove acrylics in just 5 minutes with some gentle scrubbing without harming plastic.

Good to hear. I'll post the results here when I am done I suppose.

Also, when I am painting the hull Xerus Purple, should I shade it with Reikland Flesh like in the video or rather with Druchii Violet?

fleshshade if you want it to look like a dirty shadow, druchii if you want the area to look darker without changing the colour.
or for dirty shadows, agrax earthshade if you got it.

>looks at painting guide
>they recommend fleshshade for making a very bright gold
huh. I guess I can try that gloss shade and see if that works well?

be aware that layering or highlighting over a gloss shade will dull it and can cause it to look a bit shonky.
but reikland over yellows and golds works good, it gives a warmer tone than earthshade

Progress on a patriarch

thank you for the tip. I'll just try it on one of my crap test space marines and see how it works out. same with using nuln oil gloss on some leadbelcher to try to make a sort of silver. not the most revolutionary ideas, obviously.

Anyone know ?

Some yu jing Zhanshi I pooped out, don't know what else I can add, i seem to have hit a block. highlights, yes, but the model feels too rudimentary to deserve that. I was wondering about more color but that might just make it messy.

Thoughts?
I've heard good things about gravity-fed Iwata airbrushes. also dont skimp out on your air compressor.

Like anything, the more you spend the better you get.

If its something you want for basing models, most gravity fed dual action airbrushes are going to suffice. You'd still need a compressor, there are many options but for a beginner the compressor is likely the most expensive component.

If you can find a suitable benchtop compressor to put out 10-70 psi, with a moisture trap and regulator, plus a dual action airbrush, for arround $100-150 usd then you'll be doing well.

Buy yourself some things like airbrush cleaner, replacement needles, cleaning pot, and start practicing.

You'll likely make lots of mistakes early, even doing simple work like basecoating, so it's not worth spending much more than that at first.

as an alternative, armypainter offer a range of primer/basecoat spraycans. I use their white, brown and metal colours.

triggered

The mini is painted fine, but I am not a fan of the base. It's way too extended and I don't understand for what reason.
If he was rotated 180 and racing back to the centre of the base so it looks like he's coming down on someone then maybe it would have worked, but of course then the scrolls would be above him and not below unless they are secretly lead and not paper.

If only there was somewhere for the pilot to get out and go to worship the Emporer.

Welp heres my Harakoni WIP. I have no idea what to do with the backpacks unfortunately.

How does this look, WIP? I can't decide if the arm is too big for the canoness.

The marine arm looks hilariously oversized for that model. I think even with a smaller sized arm, you will struggle for a weapon the size of a combi-plasma that looks good being wielded one-handed.

Yea, I know. It's rough. I like how the pose turned out, but the arm is massive. It's basically a power fist for her.

Perhaps you could try and get a marine combi-plasma, cut it down a bit, strap it to her back and have her holding some kind of holy icon, similar to the Helbrecht miniature?

Or perhaps the dove from the celestine figure, if you want a hilarious battlefield situation where your sisters of battle are wielding birds as weapons.

Or perhaps add the dove hand from the celestine kit?

Had this on the previous WIP thread, but here a rhino I worked a a bit on. I have only get to come up with a good colour scheme.

And of course I forgot the picture itself.

>Lion's Wrath

Maybe these from Anvil Industries?

Soon, hopefully. I picked up the upgrade kit recently and it's not 100% compatible with the current tac squad sprue. Both Templar fronts and Tac squad backs have nibs, all of which I needed to shave off. The belt and collars don't match up perfectly either.

Also, the Templar chests are often to bulky for the bolters that come with the kit to be easily held across them and still link up with the supporting arm on the other side.

Glad you didn't go with the red face, he looks pretty good now.

>But then again I don't know if my quality is even there to be giving this type of service to those that want it

See, these people don't spend their days looking at minis, developing an eye for all the minute details that make a paintjob great and flawless and whatnot. They just want painted miniatures and like the feeling of having something truly special. While your work may or may not be up to /wip/'s often unrealistic standarts, your friends will certainly be able to enjoy your work. In other words. Just do it faggot.

Early stages. I'd make sure to drill the bolter before you paint it. Other than that it looks pretty good. Make sure to check for mould lines, just to be safe. It's a pain to get rid of them on a painted model.

Underrated post. This is a badass conversion and a great paintjob. The only thing i dislike is the inside of his cape, it just lacks any depth with all the golden swirls in there.

The arm doesn't work at all. Basically i'd recommend cutting out the marine's arm from the weapon and putting all the parts together over the arm of a sister.

I see your pointy metal bawks and raise you two. It's a shitty picture because i'm currently sitting in the living room and also they are still wip. Please don't tell me to kill myself, again!

Most probably yes, terrain is easier and cheaper to paint with normal craft paint as opposed to miniature paint. Just make sure you thin properly and allow each coat to dry before putting on the next one.

Nice metal bawkses, can you possibly recommend a good colour scheme for a Nurlge rhino?

You the guy that posted all those white basecoated Plague Marines and some dipshit thought they were done and started calling you names?

If so, please post progress on them, I want to see how they're coming along.

Yes, it's from Azrael lol

>holding some sort of holy icon

She comes with a hand holding a book, so that's not the issue. The issue is wanting to give her a combi-plas.

Putting it. Somewhere else could work, which is what I might have to do for her command squad. They have a flamer AND a combi-plasma. Not a double combi, btw. And actual flamer.

I'm thinking about sticking like a plasma pistol under pic related for that part. Not sure about the flamer.

Could always get the combi-weapon from the tactical marine kit. Hand should be fairly easy to remove and, if you fancy, you can magnatise it so you can swap in the flamer and melta bits too. Bolter bit is on the bottom, so that can be left fixed in place.

If you want something smaller, something like this might work. Mine is sloppy, but it might work for you. Just a bolt pistol and plasma pistol smushed together in delicious tech heresy.

I'd stay way from bright, intense colours. Instead i would recommend green, brown, gun metal and white, all of which work pretty well. Any light, dull colour that gives you the opportunity to distort the surface using washes and shades is good. Typhus corrosion, ryza rust and nihilak oxide are also great additions to any paintjob that involves nurgle. But remember that just because you're painting for the god of dirt, slime and all the nasty things, it's not an excuse to do a lazy paintjob.

I guess that was me, yeah, happens basically every time i post basecoated stuff - Veeky Forums's predictable that way. My guys are halfway through the technical phase by now, i'll take some pictures later in the evening and post them asap.

Do you think that using baltashar gold and rune lord brass would work as a good scheme for the tank?

Basically, yes. Although only so if you'd add Nihilak Oxide, otherwise it would just look shiny, and that would be so wrong. If you want to go that road, i would recommend starting with a coat of regular dull brown, preferably Bestial / Mournfang Brown. From there, you work your way up, put a thin layer of Tin Bitz / Warplock Bronze over all that brown and you have a good base to start adding highlights. Keep in mind that this is a lot of work and you really have to thin your paints, but the end result should be worth the effort. I did this hood ornament with that technique, decide for yourself if that's what you'd like.

Yea, I'd have to remove the hand because it's left. Those might work for that one model, though.

In have a few PP that I picked up awhile ago, so I might try that, too.

Has anyone ever converted ogre leadbelchers to 40k?
I want to substitute and IG heavy weapons team with a ongre leadbelcher holding and auto cannon.

you can get forgeworld ogryn which i think even come with autocannons

My lack of a suitable church for the base shames me

Combi-plas canoness guy here again

I just realized that she also came with a bolt pistol. It would take a bit of hacking through pewter, but what if I did something like this?

Been racing ahead with the first Gobbo of a 4/5 man warband of Northern/Chaos Goblins without even asking myself if I should...

It's Bubba Yugo of Da Black Moonz.

What colour do I do his cape and loincloth? Wanted to keep him reaaaaal dark and midnight, sort of crow like, but need a bit of contrast in the clothes at least?

Maybe do a pattern on them? Can liven them up while keeping the overall dark tone of the model.

maybe a pretty well highlit light brown, make it look raggedy and freshly torn off the animal. i think if you keep the colours down too much you lose a lot of the details.

Hmm, yeah, I can dig. A black and white Blanchey check, maybe?

Yeah, I was considering flesh as well, at least on the big flat cloak. Maybe I could do both and keep the checks just on the loincloth?

>that bottom middle one

Vendetta guy from weeks ago! Progress! Thoughts?

Lovely work user, what colours did you use for the skin?

One more shot! Bit messy on the weathering but I was trying new things

Thanks, hombre. It's Celestan Grey, washed with Camoshade, then built back up. Threw a bit of Mephiston Red in there for the lips and nose.

imgur.com/gallery/NW6at

Hey guys, I know it's not WIP but I was hoping you could give me some critisisms on this blood reaver? I was trying to follow a guide but had to ad lib a lot of stuff and would appreciate some good critique

Weathering looks good!

Right, so I want to build a guard unit based on the streltsy from Russia (pic related) in fluff they use a civilian chainaxe with an extendable pole for the handle and a laslock for ranged. They are fairly basic infantry, their only bonus being slightly better accuracy from sitting the rifle on the axe as well as some melee capacity from the axes. Now, I'm sure I can find some chainaxes and I'm sure I can find something that looks suitably like a one shit las gun, but I dont know where I could get bitz to make them look right. With the robes and the funky hat and everything.

>With the robes and the funky hat and everything.
I'm 100% sure you can get the bodies by piecing together some third party stuff.
Look for torsos with the fancy dress suit buttons and combine that with one of the many variants of trenchcoat legs.

Alternately - if you are open to a bit of a more varied look - I'd say buy some Frostgrave cultists. Gonna be cheaper too.
The third option, which I think would be even cheaper than the FG cultists would be to go for historicals. Usually that means you cannot kitbash with other GW kits anymore though since the proportions are different.

On the upside you can basically combine any piece of uniform from any time period you can think of. The FW miniatures are the same scale as historicals so you can still use some of the more 40k specific stuff if you want to.
From the top of my head I don't think there is a plastic range for those specifically, but if you use the Fireforge mongols as basis you should be close enough with the bodies. The hats could be taken from any kind of mini with a fez for example, including zouaves from the american war of independence or something more oriental taken from the crusades or what have you.
The helmeted heads should be easy enough to find. Mirmilton sells packs of heads sorted by helmet type, as do others.

If you look into the Separate Head system from West Wind Productions or any thirdparty manufactuer, you might even find an approximation of that helmet with gasmasks or something to 40k it up a bit.

Victoria also sells separate gasmask bits you could just attack to any normal historical miniature.
Which brings me to her range of arms. Which is to say the limbs with and without weapons. Her stuff if slightly smaller than the current GW plastics, so should look reasonably well on historicals. She also has a set of female arms for everything which should be even a number smaller.

If you mix all of that together you should be able to build the minis you want.

Thanks mate, that's very helpful!

WIP on my GSC neophyte, thoughts?

Have you looked at the "British Heads" by Blightwheel?

Also, this sounds like a shitload of work, thankfully I'm only using these guardsmen as Marshfield auxillary for my special snowflake speesh mehreehns chapter. Also, how difficult would it be to put all this together for someone that has never painted a mini in their life? Do they sell practice minis that I can keep stripping the paint from? I am a poorfag but have been into 40k for a longass time.