/wipg/ WIP in Progress - Painting, Conversion, Sculpting, Duncan General

That bike is the absolute coolest shit. What bit did you use for the ram skull?

>it took me almost six month of people telling me to kill myself and thin my paints to get to this point.

You learn fast.

> What bit did you use
Ram skull is a banner from the ogre bull box, if i remember correctly.

>that sweet-ass metal color? brass?
Using mostly Vallejo colours. It's Tinny Tin with a wash of Nihilakh Oxide, finished up with some more Tin, Hammered Copper and Polished Gold.

it is a very distinct part if you are familiar with it, but not many are. They stopped selling those kits over ten years ago if memory serves.

Tough love best love, good job

>really old missile launcher from the ancient snap fit marines
>About time someone noticed! Thank you and good job.

Seconded.

Super cool! I like that they're not all oozy and shit like all other Nurgle armies.
Captures the feeling of decay real well!

Though why is the lord's bike wheels so pristine?

As long as you make sure it's smooth I cant see any issue with that. Might be worth filing down the writing before you do it perhaps.

Right, kinda figured. Thanks, bro.

Reposting this guy's first and last time.

absolutely gorgeous. You've done a masterful job with these. The amount of character that bob olley's sculpts for essex have is insane

Had a game with them today, they killed a lot then got mauled by genestealers.
Was basically a multiplayer star ship troopers themed kill team with some house rules

I fucking love that not-doomrider and the zombies scatter about your guys, adds great character. Good job

something is wrong with my airbrush

the paint was coming out in spurts rather than a smooth stream like usual (I am using a compressor with a tank)

and towards the end of the session I was getting backflow even without blocking the tip

do I need to clean it better? or is it a symptom of a ruined tip? I am still very new to airbrushing

So bored of them.

It sounds like you've got a bit of clogging going on.
Usually the easiest solution is to disassemble the airbrush and thoroughly clean all parts individually.
I usually use proper airbrush cleaner when I'm doing this, along with a pile of cotton swaps and miniature pipe-cleaners to get into nooks and crannies and pull any paint residue out of the brush.

Sometimes it builds up in places where you do not expect it.

I know my Harder & Steinbeck brush gets paint build-up between the trigger and the paint cup for some reason (probably me releasing the trigger wrong), and I need to clean that regularly or it'll start acting really funky, going to far as literally gluing itself stuck on 1 occasion.

It's unlikely to be the needle or the nozzle, but that's easy enough to spot, get a magnifying glass and inspect the nozzle, if you're seeing nicks, small tears or dents in the metal then it's time for a new nozzle.
And the same goes for the needle, is the tip still straight, are there any nicks in the metal?
Unless you physically dropped either on a stone floor or banged the nozzle into a wall that's not a likely scenario though.

a repost is better than a dead thread

i love those valhallens user, they look very cool on the tabletop. also based black base rims

in other news, i bought a mk 2 b landraider from forgeworld at spiel two and a half weeks ago, but they did not bring the reinforced armour i wanted. they said they could ship it free as a convention deal and i got it in the mail today!

and so it begins, i'm doing the extra side armour around the sponsen and then sculpt it back togeter again rather than put the sponson on top of the armour. pic is of dry fitting the first pieces

the mk2 b i got seems to be much better then the one a view forums and youtubers did a review of (thank god) the extra armour needs quite a bit of reforming with warm water and there are some bubbles, since i was going to cut it up from the beginning that isn't really an issue

I hadn't thought to clean that deep into the brush

I just did a full reassembly, and there was a lot of crap in the tip guard actually, but if it still doesn't flow right I will try that.

The nozzle looks ok, but it is really small and it is hard to tell. Is my vision going to shit? Needle looks fine. I would hope a steel needle should be pretty durable.

I am using a Badger Renegade Krome. The last time I had flow problems, running water through the brush and switching colors seemed to fix it. I assumed it was related to the paint I was using at the time, GW paints without enough flow improver.

Time to start my first ever painting session. Wish me luck and Duncan's steadiness.

forgot pic

Airbrush parts are really small, there's a reason I mentioned a magnifying glass, I'm 35 myself, I really can't see all of that stuff as clear as I'd like anymore.

Basically you want your brush to be spotless on the inside.
Anything built up anywhere means that paint can start sticking to it more easily, leading to more clogs.

I'd start by cleaning your tip guard given what you're describing, that might not be clogging stuff on its own, but it'll give paint an easier spot to start clogging shit up.

The needle is surprisingly durable, it's the very tip that you need to be careful with, but unless you're dropping it on a stone floor there's not much that can harm it directly.
The nozzle is quite fragile as the metal at the very tip is super thin, if something gets stuck there you can literally tear it (which I've had happen, not a fun experience).

I hope you find the issue so you can spray freely again.

Good luck

>Wish me luck and Duncan's steadiness.

He is with you, brother.

Thanks.
Yeah, they are a bit quirky and most don't mesh too well with other lines, but there are some real gems in there. And the texture, detail and character are as you say absolutely stunning.
The dwarves in particular are really good, as are some of the wizards.

I am really enjoying working on them.

I'm impressed, they went from looking pretty bad to nice

Can anyone help me. I saw some bases a while ago that were coloured perspex with cut patterns in them scifi style, like neon green or red. Anyone have any clue what they are? I can't find them anywhere!

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I want to bend to limbs on some of my metal models so duplicates look unique.
Whats the safest way to do this, if possible?

Cutting and pinning with gs

I just got some Nuln Oil. What am I supposed to do with it? Paint it up, slather on the oil, and call it a day, or do I do dark colors, slather oil, then highlight up?

Does anyone know if prisma makes micron pens in white? Or if any other companies make something similar? I find that the black pens are great for writing on miniatures, but on dark backgrounds they don't contrast enough to be visible.

alternatively you could just swap hands/weapons/heads where applicable and throw extra bits on to make guys look different, different skin tones help too

Base coat, nuln oil (works best on cold colors), layer, then highlight.

airbrushed a lot of yellow today, going to have to strip their hand-brushed cousins as 1) they look like shit 2) they will never match ever

Looks smooth.

You know good tutorials for getting started with airbrushing?

>them mold lines
>smooth
sensible chucke

>Terminators with kustom Imperial shootas and lascannons and HK missles.
What madness is this?

why is this Chuck guy so sensible? Would he know where some tutorials are?

What's the painting difference from the base to the layer? Do I just paint less on it? Then the highlight is more of an accent?

there are a lot of videos out there, but people don't like written tutorials as much

in general, you need
>an airbrush.
Go for a gravity fed one with a double action pen style trigger (trigger on type). The double action gives you waaaay more control.

Push down to make air flow, pull back to make paint flow. By pulling back only a tiny bit while pushing down, you do extremely thin coats, making it easy to do multiple coats for a smooth finish, as well as blend colors.

>a bottle of flow improver
a few drops of this stuff will make even thick GW paints go through the airbrush

>an air compressor
air compressors come in two flavors - tankless compressors, and compressors with tanks. Compressors with tanks cost more, but aren't prone to spurts and other funk that tankless compressors are.

>a big bottle of airbrush cleaner and air brush brushes
The brushes are for cleaning the airbrush, not the models.

>rubber gloves... cheap disposable will do
you WILL get paint all over your hands without these

>a ventilation solution
I airbrush outside. If you airbrush indoors, make sure you've got a vent hood and maybe a respirator

>a set of files, extra desk lamps, etc
airbrushing makes even tiny mold lines really obvious. Don't make the mistake I did...

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I am still practicing and learning, but I usually try to go light on the trigger and build up color slowly.

Those marines were four layers of three different yellows (2 thin coats averland sunset, 1 coat yriel yellow on all the raised areas, 1 coat flash gitz yellow to highlight)

my advice? if you want to get into airbrushing, get an airbrush and just try it out. Cleaning it is the real challenge at first.

I had trouble seeing them until the paint went on, but now it is really obvious.

Recent renegade marine Obliterators. They believe that the Imperium is corrupt and it no longer follows the vision the Emperor intended.

Nearly finished, gotta do cloak trimmings and base. Otherwise finished. Thoughts?

I like the axe head

the metals look a bit flat

Refining my iron warriors before I get going.

Input and criticism welcome.

Poifect!

Try painting a white iris before using a wash or glaze. The eyes are bad on your mini but looks good otherwise.

You'll usually want a slightly darker basecoat than the layer, and the highlight should be the lightest. They should all be rather similar colors, though.

If you're painting something like marine armor, which is mostly large, flat surfaces, you can save time and paint by just focusing the shade into the recessed and not putting it over the broad plates, and so just pick a basecoat that's the color you'd want as it is.

I'm painting pink horrors, so there are a lot muscles and stuff for recesses. What I did before was base it and then just add white on my pallet.

Wanted to make a techmarine with a conversion beamer for my army and the way they did it in the pic looks wicked but i can't figure out what the conversion is done with, can anyone else identify what's done with the weapon? I THINK it's some manner of lascannon.

Looks fuckawesome my dood, but with eyes, you'd be better off maybe putting a white line in the centre of the lens(es) and put a red/green/whatever glaze over it.

possibly one of the hand mounted heavy weapon (asst cannon/heavy flamer) from a terminator kit

I'm slowly going back through my deathwatch and giving their faces extra attention. 3 down, 18 to go.

Their edge highlighting is unfinished on these ones as well

>scope on an underslung weapon

whut.

according to fluff, the scope is linked to marine visors, so you can stick it around a corner and see as if you were looking straight through it

IRL, there is a nasty mold line there probably, and the creator wanted to cover it

done mocking up the right side extra armour, it needs some more work to make it fit better before i glue it but i already like the look. i have milliput super fine white and revell model filler to make it all blend together agian and if needed plastic card

Anyone got a decent picture of SW scouts with snipers? I'm trying to paint mine and cant find a decent image where they're not painted with hot glue.

The squad isn't finished yet, but how do they look? Already unfucking the lenses

im working on Titanfall inspired ghostkeel where the pilot will be riding on the outside firing his gun

>that gasmask guy

Where did you get the gasmask?

Nobody cared about that model until he put on the gasmask.

That's a chimera's multilaser mated with some sort of Termi or Space marine heavy weapon, probably a heavy flamer.

it's stock, bro

dude those faces turned out really nice, especially the guy front right.

Termi heavy flamer looks like the best fit for the hand section, and that's definitely a chimera multilas barrel. Then I guess it's just carved up to the point where it fits on a servo-arm and put in a posable position.

you what?

That's not a multilas barrel. It's scratch-built, likely out of plastic tubing and some guitar wire. I'd need to see more angles for the rest of the bits, but that barrel's not GW.

...

...

looks like a multilaser barrel with some extra stuff added

there is a part of a necron weapon there

and a space marine sight

I don't what bit they used for the hand but it looks upside down

wip

fuck runefang silver

...

Wouldn't normally post this in WIP, but it's related to painting my army.

What sort of heraldry would you put to a chapter called the Emancipators? Play like a mix of White Scars (who they're descended from) and Dark Angels, from a world with lots of bad weather. I'm thinking something with lightning bolts, or maybe raindrops.

>fuck runefang silver
use stormhost silver instead
its more expensive but so worth it

either the guy on the right is a little too into it or he tripped

either way, looking good

thanks I'll look into it

You could just do storm clouds and have the weather be squad markings/unit types. Like FA is a storm cloud with lightning, HS is a hail storm, Troops a rainstorm

I know Prospero shall burn and I should model my bases as just black ash, but I felt like placing my models just prior to that. How does this do for a war-torn street? I fucked up the scale of the glass, but I have a question:

hobbying broken glass uses actual powdered glass, with a ton of warnings. I imagine it's used more for dioramas, so how would it go on a 40k base, subject to handling? is it dangerous enough to not even warrant as a basing material? in my picture is just some clear plastic i had laying around.

an eagle's head coming out of a cloud to signify the wrath of the emperor striking from the cover of the weather

>Emancipators
If it's derived from the latin word and not taken from another context it means that these guys are no longer under the influence of their father.
Are you playing some kind of Renegades or Traitors?

Anyway how about something related to travelling? A spoked wheel, winged foot, horse or some other kind of mount.

>How does this do for a war-torn street?
looks very clean, not just for something war-torn in particular, but for a sidewalk or wall in general.
>hobbying broken glass uses actual powdered glass, with a ton of warnings. I imagine it's used more for dioramas, so how would it go on a 40k base, subject to handling? is it dangerous enough to not even warrant as a basing material? in my picture is just some clear plastic i had layin
crushed glass is used fro snow effects. I don't see any of that ton your base? If you use pieces you can't inhale and therfore won't land in your lungs this shouldn't concern you at all.

If you use that stuff on a gaming mini, like all other kind of flocking you just have to make sure it stays on the base. And be a little extra careful when applying it.

>derived from latin
that's High Gothic, and report we're reassigning you for re-education
please report to Istvan II, continental munincipality 1, terranova city, penal district, high-main street address 2061-A 13th floor, 9th door on the left where you shall sit in the RED c hair.

-Commisariat precint

i havent bought any of the glass yet. Prospero used a ton of glass in its architecture so im looking at ways to represent it's ruin. That base there is just something i whipped up in twenty minutes to test out brickwork- half of it is set into texture paint, the other half superglued to the base directly. once i find a pattern i'm happy with i'll add a lot of weathering and battle damage.

I'd finish the bases and then brake a few old cd cases. Brreak those into pieces as small as you need and just glue those onto the finished bases.

If you want something that looks like saftety glass, i.e. just look for decorative beads or pearls or maybe you can even get granulated clear plastic somewhere.

That glass needs more breaks or more jagged breaks, it looks way too clean.

WIP Typhus, feel like he needs something adding to him, was thinking a cloud of flies coming from his vents or a magic/psyker effect from his outstretched hand?

Nice base, I was thinking of just using some tiled plasticard for mine.

Im working on Fenris from war machine right now and I want to make it so that his mounted model is landing in some snow and causing it and maybe some mud to splash up from the impact. Does anyone have and advice on how to do that?

Also I am using Valhallan Blizzard for snow.

I know, I've been in several threads with people panning your shit. It looks good though and your persistence makes Father Nurgle proud.

>some snow and causing it and maybe some mud to splash up from the impact. Does anyone have and advice on how to do that?
I'd curve some wire and glue that down around the feet and the add the snow over that. If you add some tiny chunks of cork before applying the snow you can give it some volume too.

It looks rad. Have you tried dry fitting the middle pieces of the MkIIB together, or do they seem straight and even?

Also, is the Crux Terminatus on the sponson molded on or is it separate?

how did you make that truescale marine on the left?