WIP

It's nice and pretty clean.
For the best of the model, you might want to add some more colour to it's various parts like the harness and the wooden handle of the scythe, it mgiht bring it together more. Also, edge highlights might make it visually pop out more.

...

From a distance, they look really good. When I look at them clearly, I can see a couple missed moldlines, and their shoulderplates look a little thick. But they both look really good either way.

Thanks, I don't want to colour the scythe and the harness because I want to keep a ghostly feeling, I feel like painting them it would make them "realer".

Also for the highlits on the rider's coat what do you suggest? I drybrushed wrack white for the skeleton, and I fear that if I use it again for the coat it would distinguish them less.

I usually paint Black Templars, and would suggest with using Dark Reaper mixed with a little bit of Abaddon Black to give a broader pre-highlight highlight. After that, do what you've done with Wrack White, then do a very very fine edge highlight with the white Layer paint, or a 50/50 of Dawnstone and Ceramite White maybe.
But what you might want to do if you want to keep it a bit darker is to focus on the pre-highlight highlights, by covering a larger aread with a lighter black. If you do edge highlight, use the belly of a brush.

>I feel like painting them it would make them "realer".
It will also make them look painted.

You should thin your shades a bit more, they've pooled at some spots. Also, you can make the grey highlight softer and less stark by doing a broader highlight before the finer grey highlight with a colour-mix of the chosen grey and the chosen black.

Thanks!
I think you missed the point: the look I aimed for was a ghostly black hexwraith, kind of like a shadow

No problem
Look up how Golden Deamon competitors do flames, by the way, it's very usefull stuff.
Also, if you want to be really fucking cool, you could add rats or mice to your bases after you've completed them, running away from the skeletan rider, which would show plenty of motion in the miniature.

So how much does temperature matter to spraying primer? Because its summer down here now and its 27c and only gonna get hotter.

I was thinking the SoS greaves looked like a straight copy paste from the kabalite kit. Calves look just slightly chunkier from these pics but that may be my imagination. Overall great idea for a corsair conversion

Anybody wanna help me fluff my Daemons of Tzeentch army? Got a Lord of Change, 4 Heralds, a bunch of Horrors, a bunch of Flamers, a bunch of Screamers, 2 Daemon Princes, a Soulgrinder, Burning Chariot (can't decide whether to use the Exalted Flamer or stick one of my Heralds on it), and 3 renegade Knights as an allied detachment.

Don't need you to write a book for me or anything, basic ideas for me to work with would be awesome. It seems that Daemons have so much more, and at the same time so much less, personality as the other armies.

>BoP arrived today
>but my work schedule decided to fuck me
>won't get any time with the models until Saturday evening
I've been pondering ordering some Tamiya metallic red for my thousand sons, can anyone vouch for the paint's quality?

Aw hell yeah, I love those guys

>Let's spray varnish next to an open window with a fan, I don't need to go outside for this!
I feel the embrace of Nurgle, /wip/.

Are plastic Tartaros torsos the same width as Indomitus ones? Can you mount GK halberd arms onto them without difficulties?

Look up Louise Sugden for more.
I really gotta stop posting her shit when I'm asking for help. I do it to draw attention to my posts but then everyone just gets distracted by the pictures.

Alright tg, I need your help. I bought some daemons bloodletters and did a base coat of mephiston red.(sorry I don't have pics) Now should I drybrush and then add a shade or vice versa?

You should do your shade then your highlights.

I'm afraid that the drybrush might cover over the shade

>You keep setting them up, i'll keep knocking them back..

I have been loving the criticism about this guys.

>I can't see past the dust
> I can't see the models detail cause background is blah bla......

2/2

You can't anger Nurgle. There is enough room in my stomach for everyone's hate.

Finished my Grimaldus a few days back, did highlights yesterday. Not 100% sure if I should do some super fine detail, bright highlights or if the ones I have are enough, though I think it looks decent enough.

Still can't push myself to do his damn backpack, though but I want to finish this mini completely before starting on my Servitors, Emperor's Champion or my final batch of crusaders.

Sorry for the huge image but resizing on the phone is a pain in the ass.

shade pools in the recesses
drybushing doesn't even reach the recesses

If you drybrush properly it's only going to pick up the raised edges. If you're worried then just wipe as much paint off your brush as you can to start of with. It's pretty foolproof

So why are you still posting this same model? As bait?

Same things still stand.

>Overall paint looks good, armor could use some more contrast, brushwork still a bit messy
>Your model is covered in unsightly dust
>Your background is disorienting on the eyes, even if the middle of the model looks fine
>Base is ugly

That's it. Post something different, or a better picture, or find something new to post.

No one has critiqued the model properly other then

>dust and shitty background.

I travel for work and was only pic I have. Just wanted to stab the picture in like a shiv till someone gave me a piece of advice that was constructive. Thank you very much for critque, i will post next pic in line with good "photography".

Fuck you bad weather, I was wanting to spray paint prime today.

I got a 6ft long piece of wood and cement glued like 30 dudes to it. It was going to be beautiful. And then it rained.

Quite a bit. @ 20ish c is your safe zone. Go hotter than that, paint particles can start to dry mid air, your paint job can get sand papery. Too cold, the paint just doesn't atomize properly. Try spraying early sunrise or after sunset if it's getting that hot during the day.

Is that kinda a universal rule for all spray paints or do temps. differ for each different brands/companies/ formulas.

Just finished my Death Company Chaplain.

here

Also I need a color scheme. I like the bright and colorful stuff like savage orc user's, but I'm going for more of a lunar theme rather than the LSD-straight-to-the-eyeballs of this.

That's about the rule. Paint is paint at the end of the day.

This is a very sharp model, user. I hope mine will measure up to him when I paint it some day.

My only criticism is the edge of the base. Is that Gehenna/Auric/Balthasar Gold? Is the rest of your army or at least the rest of your Death Company based in a similar manner? I think it detracts from the beauty that is the rest of that model.

Here is a hint on how to do letter for purity seals or parchment. Mix a little bit of Abaddon Black with Ushabri bone. Around like 1 drop black 2 drops Bone, that ratio. Then to thin it, use a drop of Agrax Earthshade. Finally with a fine tipped brush, lightly paint a line a cross the parchment to look like lettering. If you feel confident, shake the brush just very lightly to make it look like scribbled lettering.

Wasn't OP btws but it don't matter, just a interested party. Thanks.

Used Gehennna, my HQ (Astorarth) was done with Balthasar. I like to have my higher end guys based in a gold colour, my DC troop is done in Mephiston Red, darkend with just a bit of black. I am not a fan of the base either, not sure what colour I want to do it but certainly want it to seem higher up.

Guy, it's pretty hard to give criticism about a piece when we can hardly tell what the Emprah-loving fuck is going on in the picture. Hell, draping a white t-shirt over a box and using that for your backdrop would at the very least allow people to see what's going on, to actually allow us to give any real constructive criticism.

Trying to "stab the picture in like a shiv" doesn't accomplish anything outside of getting people pissed at you a) because you can't take a good picture and b) you keep spamming the shitty ones expecting people to suck your dick to get a decent shot. Your shit stinks just like the rest of us, no need to try and act holier-than-thou on a Laotian laundry-folding BBS.

Rant aside, I'm looking to start some motherfuckin' ALPHA LEGION. However, I haven't done much with regards to mostly metallic schemes like that, so I'm just wondering if I should stick with my normal grey primer, or actually use black for these guys (rattlecan, not airbrush, if it makes any difference). I've never really done much black priming, if only because I'm not a fan of how much work I'd need to do to get decent coverage with a lot of my paints to not look so dark, but I've seen a lot of recommendations for black under metals.

>with a fine tipped brush, lightly paint a line a cross the parchment to look like lettering

I'd like to see an example of this. I use a Sakura Micron Pen for all mine, but maybe the contrast (really *black* black against off-white) is too much. Yours could be a more attractive alternative.

Thanks for the tip, might try that at some point. Currently don't have any Earthshade in the house and (as you can probably tell) simply did those parchments using a tiny bit of thinned Abaddon Black.

Going to go back over my parchments, robes and seals when I pick up my next batch of paints. Not much to ruin when re-doing just those again after all.

Earthshade is -really- not all that needed. I use it just out of habit. A lil bit of water is just fine.

My example also works for wording, but just for tiny script for like purity seals all you really need is a thin line. Here is an example of how I did Astorath, however if I could redo it I wouldn't of made the parchment so dark.

Oh wow, that looks pretty freaking great.

Definitely giving this a shot soon, then, if the Earthshade isn't all that important. Thanks, user.

I usually always go with either black or white primer. If you're planning to do your Alpha Legion with an actual blue metallic, then just basecoat with black and build up from there. If you're looking to do the teal-wash-over-metallic, then maybe prime and basecoat with a very bright metallic and start your washes from there.

Np, and Earthshade really isn't, I mean the difference I find is pretty minimal though I like it. Would even try Nuln Oil to water down the paint. Also one more tip, take a bright colour, red, blue green, what fancies you and try to paint a tiny box. Gives it a letter box appearance. Not really needed to paint anything inside but if you feel confident that you can paint in an incredibly tiny letter, all the better.

I'm looking to rebase my marines on 30mm bases. Does anyone know where I can get plain black plastic 30mm bases from? Gonna need roughly 80ish.

I know you can get them from GW in both 10 & 100 packs. But at $60AUD I'm hoping there is somewhere else that has them for cheaper. Or alternatively am I just going to be better off buying detailed resin bases from a place like Dragonforge/Secret Weapon/MicroArt?

As much as I'd like to do metallic blue (and the Scale 75 turquoise metallic looks absolutely perfect for this), I already have the washes from previous my previous Warmachine army, so I might as well use them. The plan was to prime, basecoat with Stormfang Steel, then experiment with P3's Blue, Green and Turquoise inks to find the right color. As much as GW's shades are nice for fleshy bits, and I even have a pot of Devlan Mud before my FLGS tossed it all, I just like Privateer's inks a bit better when it comes to covering large areas uniformly.

So if I get what you're saying, I should just find a paint&primer of a bright silvery metallic and go ham, and not just prime black and basecoat metals, correct?

Highlighted the gold, leather, and black on the left hand side of the Terminator. The highlights definitely make the expanses of flat black a little more palatable at least. Maybe I can do a toned black on the next Termie.

that shit is nice

Looks good, yellow really stands out with that black. However this could be just the quality of the photo but thin your paint a lil more cause some parts look thick.

Prime with a standard metallic primer. It'll probably look something like Leadbelcher. Then basecoat with Stormfang Steel or a similar "bright silver but not quite highlight" color. Then apply your washes.

Try to make sure your washes/glazes get even coverage though. Don't have them JUST focused in the recesses like your normal shade, get it all over than shit.

Finished modelling my Dreadnaught and about ready to prime. Hope you enjoy the pictures user. :)

That is some nice yellow mate. Good stuff!

Did a lot more green stuff work than I anticipated. The metal work on the groin and knees wasn't replicated anywhere else on the model, so I just did some basic rim work to replace it. Pretty happy with how the bolts came out too as I'd never done it before.

...

smooth GS work

somehow whenever I sculpt it ends up uneven, lumpy, lines are never straight, and looks like trash.

Pretty new to properly caring about the small little things that make figures stand out: what kind of drill thing do you guys use for drilling barrels and the likes?

And while I'm asking: how do you go about magnetizing small bits like a regular Space Marine's weapon/hands (what kind of tiny-ass magnets etc)? Need just a few more Marines with Power Swords while having way too many Chainswords.

Just started work on a scratch built trukk.
Need to add the detail like exhausts, a gun, rivits, doors, windows etc
But I thought I'd share pics.

Whenever I see things like this I envy ork players for getting to use these really cheap options for their stuff while also being allowed to build them as shoddy as you want since that'll just add even more flavor.

Then I remember how bad Orks are off in terns of gameplay right now and it kind of helps.

Loving the Trukk, though. Can't wait for the full thing.

Thanks.
I want your advice here, user.
Should I just have a gun hanging off of the top, or make a square turret (Circular ones are beyond my skill)

Shit, sorry for sideways pic. But it illustrates the point. Gun poking off top, or nig-rigged turret?

What is the best paint to quickly layer up a base coat gold from black? specifically for gold trim on black.

black base, medium brown, gold?

also what gold ( or brass), covers the best from 1 coat?

For years I used to spray primer and varnish in my bedroom, because fuck health, right?

>tfw when I airbrush outside for better ventilation and still get paranoid about whether I should use a respirator or not.

Vallejo model air has amazing metallic paints. You shouldn't need to layer any other colours, just one or two gold layers should do.
If you're like me, you'll never go back to the other stuff.

Don't confuse it for liquid gold / silver / bronze though, because those are alcohol based paints and while they look great too, they're slightly trickier to work with and have to be thinned with rubbing alcohol.

Finished my ulrik conversion.
Thoughts? :)

PS: its shiny because of varnish, will dull down with matte finish when weather permits it

what you need to do is one of three things:

1)
Make the fluff yourself, so they will truly be your guys.

2)
make a thread on the board, not in the WiP thread (as it has very little to do with the subject) and ask for help.

3)
Hire a writer through various means. I know for a fact that there are quite a lot of talented writers that frequents Veeky Forums, so I'm sure you could find one.

again, I'm really stressing the point that the purpose with your post really doesn't belong in the WiP thread. Maybe in one of the generals - 40K, fantasy or AoS - that correspond with the setting you are using your characters in.

good luck user.

Kneepads, axe handle, metallics on the axe, gems and black armour seem to lack any highlights at all. A quick wash and highlight would really do those areas wonders.

So this is my first time painting and I'm putting together my first army. Picked the unit I thought would be easiest to practice on. What can I do to make it better?

and the rear

Well, it's winter now, snow and everything. Can't prime, Can't paint. See you at springtime, /wip/

Is WIP mapmaking also welcome here or should I turn to the worldbuilding thread?

Working on some Minotaurs, not sure what to do with the base though.

Anyone got any methods or tips for painting sort of... Blacked up metal? Not pitch black, rather like metal a military has blacked to make it stop shining because they're stealth and ambush specialists.

It's welcome but you're probably going to get more and better responses in /wbg/

Get a brush on primer, or use Gesso with a little water. Walmart even carries the stuff just look for Bob ross's face on the bottle.

I'm going to be paintfully honest with you, otherwise you'll never learn, right? It is very sloppy overall, which likely has more to do with the tools that you're using than your skill because the paint is where it should be.

Some things to consider
>galleria flow improver
>smaller sable brushes
>glazes or glazing medium for transitions and highlights
>2 or or even three color highlights
>brown wash for warm metals like gold, black wash for cold metals like boltgun/platemail/silver

It looks like you've added a lot of unnecessary steps and skipped the things you did need to do. For example, easy vox grilles and armor joints: boltgun, go over it with nuln oil thinned with a little bit of water. Instead you seem to have carefully tried to only paint the top ribbing in boltgun, with the tip of it too instead of putting a little paint on the side of the brush, wiping most of it off and gently patting the surface for a subtle highlight.

You've also used a very bright orange red all over the tabbard, which makes it very hard to highlight. It would have been better to start off with a dark red like khorne red, then glazing over the areas you want to make brighter so you instantly have natural looking shading as well.

As for the highlights, if your line is too thick, just clean it up afterwards by glazing a little of the basecolor over the edge of it, to create a transition.

Vallejo heavy brown is my go to basecoat for gold.

First thing I noticed about OP pic was the guy, looking as if "meh, seen better". But knowing full well he could never achieve this sort of work.
And its fun, because this is the embodiment of Veeky Forums WIP user. The guy who always gives negative critique, but never posts pictures of his own.

I can never tell if I love or hate this place.

But which ever one it is, my uncertain emotion is certainly growing in intensity

What he said. If you're working on it and it's Veeky Forums it's cool here but we're not always helpful.

20/70 zombies are done, the rest isnt far behind. Can't wait to go back to painting marines.

Don't worry, I can take the criticism and appreciate it.

Some things, though:
>brown wash for warm metals, black wash for cold metals
>easy vox grills and joints

I did both of those things, though I used Badab Black for the grills rather than Nuln Oil. The red I've used is a thinned Blood Red. Was considerig to instead go with Scar Red, though that one seemed too dark.

Can not say anything against the other arguments, as I definitely agree with your opinion on those things.

Death Guard-user, is that you?

Take 2 of my combi-plasma.

Still rough, obviously, but how does it look?

where'd you get these models, user?

mould lines nigga

Ah yeah, I have a collection of those older paints myself and they're a bit harder to handle, especially if they dried up a little like I think yours did. I occasionally add a liiiiitle bit of the galleria flow improver to my pots, as it is the same stuff used to keep paints fluid in the first place. That alone should give you much better control and smoother layers.

As for painting red, I usually start off pretty dark or even with a brown basecoat, then just glaze on where I want it to be redder as red is a very thin pigment paint. Orange highlights are better for highlight effects than pinks or pale reds in my opinion, it just makes it pop more.

It isn't really a minotaur untilyou add some verdigris. Looks fine though, only the patch of molten plastic on his hip looks a bit odd. Since Minotaurs are all about hard, dark metals, i'd recommend something white or blue for the base. Ice and Snow, perhaps?

Jep, it's me. And i still haven't killed myself. Yet.

Those are 1st gen mantic plague zombies. Bought 80 for 80 pounds back in 2012. They are a wild mashup of mantics fantasy zombie line and their imperial guard standin. They are oop, as far as i know, and have been replaced by better looking but more expensive models.

Someone suggested to me just painting metal normally, then doing a whole bunch of black ink washes?

Another idea was possibly to paint a shade of near-black, then edge highlight it with metallic paint?

honestly I thought that was a half painted black primed model until I read your post.

Looks good and I know Yellow is a pain, but you should put more work in.