WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

Reposting this from last thread for more input:

Planning to paint my AdMech army like pic-related, Tech-Priest just arrived. Will paint his backplate in this theme, though I'm not sure what to do for the coat.

Grey, white, black, yellow, green and red are all options, orange might be as well.

Also need to paint some piece of the model red in old AdMech tradition. How about the head?

If anyone had any ideas, they're appreciated.

>Commissar not using a laspistol and chainsword

I'm disappointed :(

Leviathan should be arriving in the mail soon and I'm thinking up how to pose it

came across this image and was wondering what kind of extra work i would have to do to ensure stability and what not for the running pose on the left

>they will never make a ciaphus cain model
Why even live

not included in that kit, unfortunately
theres so much money they could make from doing a commisar kit with a lot of options (like the space marine captain) but nope.

I have one waiting to be built and I think I'm going to get the bits for a dreadnought torso and one arm, cut it up so it's lying in the base with the front plate up and painted in traitor colours, and have my Leviathan stepping on it victoriously.

but user they did and 3rd parties have too?

Reinforcement pins + two component epoxy glue + something that holds the pieces in place until the glue dried.

>Paint half the models for everyone at my FLGS and some friends outside it
>get models in exchange for tabletop quality work
>not only is my plastic crack addiction sated, but get to gain experience painting different armies

It's a pretty fucking comfy feel. Getting Magnus in exchange for painting a Space Wolf army soon, the irony is not lost on me.

Who /designatedpainter/ here?

dont have much experience with pinning what should i use?

would some thin brass rods from a hardware store work or hell even paperclips?

and would the red lines be a good idea of where to pin it, the left side leg being lifted behind the dreadnought and the right one going all the way through the base?

When I was much younger, I played against this guy at my FLGS a couple times, and he eventually offered me money to paint stuff for him. I'd only painted Orks before and he was an Eldar player, but I gave it a go.

Eventually he also told me his friend wanted mini's painted, and he brought me a GW case with 10 Grey Knights, and 5 GK Terminators, saying he'd pay me after they were done. He never got in contact with me again, so now I have some Grey Knights.

House Vyronii Knight progress. Still need to paint the carapace green, continue to layer and shade most of the whites, but getting there. Really wishing I had an airbrush, since Tamiya Clear Green really doesn't like being applied by brush.

What is the best color to wash white with if I want something that looks clean?

A random Inquisitor/ henchman/ rogue trader I kitbashed together. Help me name him.

Dwarf Longbeard Longleg.

How much contrast are you going for? I would just go with a black wash for any crevices to make the white pop.

the key is to not actually wash the white, but crevices and depressions in the model. If you want a pre heresy World Eaters look of clean FW uses dark blue in the recesses and a super watered down blue glaze on the raised bits.

Bottom World eater scheme for reference, sans the weathering on the legs of course

you don't happen to have a pdf for alpha legion would you?

Oh, also need to do all the gold banding.

not a specific pdf unfortunately. Do remember the recipe though:

Coat whole model in leadbelcher, then apply coats of runefang steel to desired shine. Airbrush on tamiya clear blue. Thats the armor at least to get that shining look.

>the key is to was depressions in the model
I just tried that and when I got back from the kitchen my librarian had hung himself and my Deathwing sergeant jumped off the shelf to his death.

RIP in pieces, you will be missed.

>fear apexes

I've seen you asking for input for several thread ago. there comes a point where you just need to paint up a test model to see if you are happy with it. Start with a ranger or vanguard to test your scheme, I wouldn't start on the tech priest dominus until you have it finalized.

If I were going to do a metallic blue/green for admech (I personally wouldn't), the primary color I would pair with it for things like robes would be a dark purple, dark blue, or white. Red robes or hood with turquoise metal armor panels will look to cartoonish in my opinion. If you want to use red in your scheme it would ideally be used to color small objects like cables and piping to provide a nice contrast, much like the eyes on the AL in your picture.

Jumbo paperclips would be fine

You do the Emperor proud user. I'm looking forward to seeing what you paint next.

Any tips on how to make centaurs?
I want to add rough riders to my abhuman guard.

Guy from last thread who was looking to add some color to my Tyrannocyst. Went over it with some Warpstone Green, applying the layer in the same quick manner of a dry brush, but not taking the paint off first so it applied more thickly. Did a thin layer up top so it blends into the black. Thinking of doing a wash next, but not sure which one would work best.

Sir Reginald Arthur Quintus Septus Sexilius the Third.

That is if you don't want to just buy a blue metallic. Or do a mix of blue and metallic medium.

Yeah, have to admit that I asked 2 or 3 times over the last week or so, just trying to get some different opinions on things before starting out.
Apologies if it came off as spammy/obnoxious/retarded.

Anyway, testing the theme on more models is probably the best call, though I'd have to see what to get to test it on. Didn't originally intend to even run Skitarii for my AdMech list, only the Cult units, though Kataphrons and Castelans are way too expensive to use as test dummies while Electro-Priests don't exactly provide a good model to test on, having no armor and all that. Picking up a cheap Vanguard/Rangers pack off of eBay, or even the Start Collecting! box, selling the extra Priest or using him as a spare, is probably my best, and cheapest, bet in this situation.

I mostly want to paint my guys in that scheme because I just really fucking love those colors and the AdMech design, but am not a big fan of the pure red, white or black they use for almost every scheme. I get that anything deviating from the "warm color" spectrum is probably pretty heretical to the Omissiah and the canon, but I'd still like to see something different done on them.

Thanks for the reply, nonetheless. Will probably stick to a white robe and make the eyes, liquid and non-plasma energy glows red as a bit of contrast and the red highlight.

Can you ever go wrong with Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade?

I don't know what it looked like before but I think choosing five different colors was a mistake.

at least two of those colors should have been a different shade of another color already present and then blended together.

Before it was solid black where the green was. I wanted to make it pop more.
Here it is.

Not the best with washes, so I'm unsure what Oil would do vs. what Earthshade would do to the color.

For an user's (great) scheme
See image

Forge World uses an airbrush for theirs. First they coat the entire thing in a metal/silver and do a zenithal highlight with silver. Then they use Tamiya Clear Blue and Green. It's interesting how they do the coats though. Basically for one they put a bit more towards the top, and on the other they put a bit more towards the bottom. So you have this metallic purple where it gently gradients from blue-purple to purple to green-purple all riding on top of the silver zenithal highlight they put down earlier. Probably takes a shit ton of skill (plus, you know, an airbrush), but it looks amazing.

Oil is a black wash while Earthshade is more like an umber. I'd definitely lean more toward Earthshade or something like 1:1 Athonian Camoshade : Earthshade.

any tips for doing that pre heresy world eaters scheme? what kind of blue glaze would you use on the raised bits? and woud you just use that drakenhof nightshade/nuln oil/lahmian/water mix for the recesses?

another question I have is how the hell do you "sponge" white on all the panels anyway.

Use this

youtube.com/watch?v=veLfxJmIzyw&t=600s

I did, this was the result. thought I'd strip all my dudes and try something else.

We explained this to you in /hhg/ man. Duncan's instructions in that video are correct, you need to work on thinning those paints (even further than you already are, apply more thinner coats, and waiting for it to try between each one) and your brush control.

>I followed the instructions
[parkinsons model]
>the instructions didn't work so I'm trying a technique that's fundamentally messier

Dude, the Duncan video is fine, you just need to hone that brush control.

>Vyronii
I find your choice of house... aesthetic as fuck.

I have no idea why but painting Jump Packs are always such a pain in the ass for me. It's not like there is a lot to them as well, it's just something about them I loath doing.

Then maybe stop playing space marines?

I feel the same way about regular back packs.

I think it's just the fact that they are probably the most boring part of a model.

>Hating to paint 1 part of a mini.
>Should stop painting those minis.

That's probably it. Maybe also because they tend to be the last part I paint and so at that point I figure I just want to be done by that point.

So whats everyone go to paints? I personally like to go with Vallejo for basing and highlighting and use Citadel for Washes and Metallics.

Is it wrong how much I want these?

Is non-spray White Scar good for priming a model with? Only have Imperial Primer left and about to start my first set of brightly colored minis, doubt it'll work for those (considering one of the main colors will literally be white).

Also, for doing large areas of white and blending it, will Administratum Grey, Dawnstone and White Scar be enough colors to make it look decent?

>Lust Elves

If it's wrong then I guess we are both sinners user.

Rather than painting pure white and trying to add shading after, start with a dirty light grey and build up white after.
You have a steady hand, now thin those paints more.

What are the artificer tints like?

probably not very useful at all, which is why no one is really reviewing them. they're just extremely expensive pigment (just straight pigment) and you just put a little bit in bottles (yes, they're only useful for changing the tints of bottles)
it might be useful for making a purple-ish black right out of the gate, or something like that, but for the most part, you can find whatever colors they'll make together online for cheaper.

youtube.com/watch?v=gzgvwkDiwSw

skeptical desu

Aren't these the guys who made the succubus with the giant nipples and pronounced vulva?

So before I do something I may regret, is mixing gloss varnish with a paint a bad idea? I want to make a nice "fresh blood" effect, and while mixing a red with Agrax Earthshade was a decent start, I feel like it needs a wetter look to make it pop.
Has anyone tried anything like this?

I have a pretty mixed box of Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter and cheap craft store paints (usually Americana). The craft store stuff makes good mixing fodder, and there's usually a good flat black or bone white to be had there.

So basically a paint to mix with other paints when you can just do that with paints from before. Citadel is easily the most jewish paint line ever.

I went with fantasy Sisters myself.

It should work if you specifically want the red to look very thin and transparent. You are essentially thinning the paint. For a bolder red do the paint first and then gloss over it afterwards. GW sells a specialty technical paint called "Blood for the Blood God" to do fresh blood all in one step.

It's an addon product for advanced users. Nothing particuarly "Jewish" about it. The normal paints are all still there.

Commissar for my girl guard. Sculpting is hard.

Not the person you're replying to, but out of curiosity, what would work if I wanted to make my own blood? I've been trying to figure out how to make purple alien blood for some of my figures.

Well the paint I was using for my airbrush is coming out too dark when I use it to manually paint it on the model. As a result I had to buy new paint and try and color match them to the stuff I already have painted. A total pain. This is what I worked on tonight, just to see if I could get the match right. I still need to do a lot of the detail work, I took this after the first wash but before any highlights. Did I match the colors close enough? The sky weaver is what I already had painted and the player is what I worked on tonight.

Generally the most straightforeard way is to paint the "blood" color normally with the colors you want and then go over it with gloss to get that "wet" effect.

Do feel free with mixing it with your paints, since gloss varnish is really just gloss medium. You'll probably need to experiment a bit to get of feel for how it operates though. When you mix like that you're essentially creating a glaze, so you'll have to get a feel for how it behaves. And you probably want a combination of normal paint and mixes.

>Trying to decide how many layers and how many bases to get
>Mfw I don't know whether to get all base, all layer, or both

>defending Jewish practices

You know very well that they will make it in all their videos and guides that you will have to use it. Stop being so brand loyal.

>buying one brand
>falling for the "layer" meme

>Not just buying every paint

Not that user, but the technical range is just for getting different effects which you can get with a lot of work, and a lot of other paints. Lahmian medium is for mixing with other paints to dilute the color, but not the consistency.

Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade, which one is more cheating?

Nuln oil. Black goes with more things than brown.

Then what do you recommend, user?

p sure layer paints are just different colored base paints. they all use the same formula as other paint brands.

Not him but you can apply bases and layers the exact same way, there are some slight differences in consistency and that is it. GW just uses that terminology as a branding aspect. You can buy Vallejo equivalents of those paints.

Guess how much "Texture paint" I've bought from GW. Zero. I'm just stating facts.

They might do one video to demonstrate these but this stuff is outside the norm. They will not use these much if at all. In fact, their entire paint range is built around the idea that beginners don't have to mix paints at all. You just have GW wallet ptsd.

A mix between different brands. Vallejo and P3 are good for base coats and highlights. I will give it to GW for making excellent washes but Vallejo has more solid washes if you dont base the whole miniature in a wash. Metallics go either way but i prefer Vallejo.

Lets not forget bigger bottles and more paint compared to GW.

Awesome! Thanks.

conversion chart. dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

Start with the base paints of the colors you want. They have more pigment and with make your like easier getting good color. Layer paint wise it depends on how much highlighting you want to do and wether you want to mix your own paints. Consider getting on layer paint for your colors and maybe two (going up to a bright highlight) for color you plan to use commonly with your scheme. Really though you can just get one layer paint because you can always mix a lighter highlight by adding white, off-white, or light yellow to your standard layer paint. It all depends on you budget. If you're completely lost and don't mind spending a little extra just follow their paint chart. At least for your main colors.

If wanted to do everything with mixing and don't mind painting lots of layers to get solid colors, or if you prefer priming white, you could also just do it all with just layer paints. White, Black, and basic colors for mixing. It probably easier for a beginner to just buy some more pots though.

Thanks, Anons.

Yeah "Layer" paint is basically the same as every other companies' paint. "Base" paint just has bit more pigment in it to make it cover a black undercoat a little better.

The Vallejo "Heavy ..." line corresponds to the same pigment density (thus how well it covers) as Citadel's "Base" line. The vast majority of Vallejo paints are somewhere between "Base" and "Layer" in consistency. Also of note is that since the Great Citadel Painting Renaming of 20XX the colours don't always line up perfectly from the old formulations.

Also I might be crazy but I don't think Vallejo has a blue that's as light as Lothern Blue. I have VGC Electric Blue but that's still not quite there. I was looking at my FLGS's paint rack and I ended up having to go with the Citadel one.

ALSO. I tend to buy a lot of Vallejo Thinner Medium because it thins much nicer than just water and it's cheaper than the Lahmian Medium.

>ALSO. I tend to buy a lot of Vallejo Thinner Medium because it thins much nicer than just water and it's cheaper than the Lahmian Medium.

That's a good tip. Thanks.

or there's this. Ends up cheaper.

What is the difference between that and glazing medium? I have a bottle of that brand's glazing medium, and I am wondering if there is a functional difference beyond just the sheen.

art-is-fun.com/acrylic-mediums/

I was following the duncan technique of priming white, basing ulthuan grey, then doing crevices and corners with agrax earthshade, but I was having a lot of trouble making small lines and not having the wash spill over, do I just need a smaller brush or just to "git gud"?

Try bracing your hands better. Hold your brush in one hand the mini in the other and then physically put you wrists together, palms toward each other like someone was tying a rope around your wrists. Then rest both wrists on your table or table edge and paint using motion of your fingers and rotating the model. This can help to make your brushwork much neater and steadier.

Just correct the thick bits with ulthuan grey. It's much easier to make a thick line thin than it is to paint a thin line in the first place.

but do you think this "quality" is unsalvageable and I should just strip and start over? people on HHG said the brass rim paint looked too THICC, so I'm not sure whether I can fix it from here or I need to start from square one.

your impulse is correct. Strip it. Multiple accurate thin coats then start on washing armour indents.