/wip/ - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

I didn't think it was that funny, but maybe I have a career in comedy after all.

Crack a window numb nuts.
Open all the doors and windows.
I don't care how fucking cold it is, unless you want your parents planning your funeral over Christmas.

its night time here. You don't know how many bugs that will bring in.

I'm talking a tendril of a hivefleets worth of bugs

Then leave the room and find another ventilation method. Don't sit there and huff it.

RIP Tamiya Plastic Cement in carpet user.
He dun goofed and was found dead surrounded by tiny plastic space men, by his family after they didn't hear anything from him for 2 weeks.
He died as he lived, not surrounded by insects.

Well Deathwing is delayed until the 14th, so might as well try to get your own bugs until then. Kill them with the holy smell of the hobby!

>"yes, well, we dont suspect foul play at this point, but the circumstances are unusual- this was obviously some kind of sex dungeon, we've established this from the pure volume of semen caked into the carpet, and this much-loved photo of who we assume to be the deceased's lover- a Dun Cann, of bedfordshire. yes, we've sent a detective to talk to him."

so leave the room and solve it during the daylight hours

don't fucking stew in noxious fumes like a retard

In seriousness, do we need a procedure for this shit?
I mean I told him to crack the Windows and he refused, so now there's a risk.
No reply, probably due to embarrassment because we are all taking the piss.

I guess people wouldn't give up their phone number and address for us to contact a medical team for them, because this is fucking Veeky Forums and they wouldn't want a delivery of 30 pizzas.

hopefully he's not replying because he's shampooing his carpet, not because he's facedown on it

If he doesn't reply I'll post his IP
Someone can trace it from there

You aren't, or at least probably aren't going to die from glue fumes in a normal-ish size room.

It ain't healthy in the slightest, but if that much would kill a human being, we'd have a lot less junkies huffing paint fumes because they'd all be fucking dead.

speaking of glue fumes, how often should I be taking breaks using plastic glue for my minis. I'm pretty good about not getting any on my finger tips and I always keep the window open but damn it's a strong smell. and I build the stuff in my room so it dries overnight, am I giving myself plastic cancer?

I straight up use superglue for everything.
Always loads in stock at poundland and it's safe for humans if you don't huff it. Much less fumes as polycement and doesn't cause harm if it gets into cuts.

allows me to snap and change parts if I realise a head sculpt looks bad painted, a weapon option is terrible or a pose is bad.

Never had a problem with models falling part, even when dropped it's rare for an arm to pop off.

Just open your window every 2 hours for 5-10 minutes and leave the room for that time and its fine. Probably overly careful, but save.

Same here. People who MUST use plastic glue are retards. The only time I'd even consider plastic glue is gluing vehicle hulls together.

>Poundland super glue

Why, just buy Loctite from Wilko's or wherever mate.

>Probably overly careful

...

There's a reason I got

>>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
>en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
>hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

Added to the copypasta. Solvents don't usually kill you all at once (but they can), they fuck you up in the long term.
Hobbyists don't get as much exposure as people in industry, but they don't wear anywhere near as much PPE or have a manager breathing down their necks.
Open your windows when working with solvents for the whole time and thank yourself in 30 years time.

A buddy of mine used to joke that the smell of organic solvents is the smell of your brain cells dying, and he wasn't far off.
If you get a headache you've already had short-term overexposure.

The one on the left cost £4 for 1 bottle. The one on the right cost £1 for 8 bottles.

They are the same chemical in the same quantity for 1600% increase.

leave your door open, get some air movement by opening a window a bit

Having your hobby shit in a different area to your sleeping shit is also a smart idea, but a bit of ventilation goes a long way.

To, uh, change the subject to something new, I wasted to ask opinions on something I've been mulling over the last couple days. With how the technology's progressed, would it be possible and economically viable to 3D print a tank? I know its still expensive/hard to get any good detail on a miniature, but the idea in my head is for custom Gorgons and a Stormhammer for an Imperial Militia army I'm building. I don't want to rip off the models (I think the FW Stormhammer is a nice looking tank) but design something more fitting for my army's theme. I just wanted to know if anyone thought it'd be possible, or if I should put it out of mind.

No. Custom parts like weapon shields and ramps? yeah.

Not an 8"+ tank

If you want to go in this territory, I'd rather buy recasts from based chinaman.

Kek'd

Its possible, but not economical for most people.

Pic related for example is a 3d-printed M1 tank. The guy who prints it asks for $33 for it, which is not bad for a tank in this size and most historical resin tanks are only slightly cheaper (the M1 is kinda big though, compared with ww2 tanks at least).

He also sells a couple of other vehicles, prices range from $9-$44.
The thing is: He uses a really expensive printer. ($5000+) and he has 7 of them, and he needs that much because printing one such tank takes more than 12 hours.

Quality wise its not as good as top tier resin or plastic scale kits, but its certainly not bad either. There are worse wargaming tanks on the market for sure.
The big benefit is that he can design and print whatever you want, and fill gaps in the existing lines of other, bigger, companies. (His russian T-80 for example is the only one on the market at this point, and he can print it in any scale)

If you can afford the printers and if you are good at designing you can certainly print your own tanks (or rip off GWs designs which will cause you no problems as long as you aren't selling them).

But as user said, if you are mainly after GW tanks, Chinamen are a better choice at this point. But we'll see what the future brings.

Alright, thanks guys. Maybe if I do get inclined to it, I'll see if I can grab some chinaman tanks and work them into the ideas I have in mind, maybe make custom parts on top of them. Its probably gonna be a while until I start on the idea, so I wanted some feedback while I'm still planning it.

If you have ideas, you could ask the owner of "special artizan service miniatures" (the guy that does that M1) on facebook if he could design or print them for you.
If he sees potential to sell these items in his shop he probably will be able to help you and design the parts for you. (He did alot of stuff for people from the Bolt Action community to fill gaps in Warlord Games product range lately)

Posted last night, but i think it was too late for the anons i told id post for. A couple shitty Auxiliary reposts

You could always scratch build it.

The cadians were fun. The dremel tip i used makes perfect divets to set FW heads into

What's not particularly visible there is the godawful texture that most 3D prints that aren't hugely expensive have. It also depends on you having really good, detailed 3D models in the first place (that tank looks like it's somewhat lacking). has it right, 3D printing is perfect for something like making your own custom pauldrons, or even your own head to stick on your warlord (there are companies that will do this at the right scale), where the high material cost isn't a factor, but it's not suited to anything big.

So I just opened my new Razorback and to my disappointment there was no Assault cannon option.

I DO however have a LR Vulcan Mega bolter lying about... D'ya think that can be fitted on and look reasonable?

Oh man that would look AMAZING.

I have a unattached VMB too, but it's there to be an option for my WeatherWeapon

Hey guys, i just sent out 10 more mails for Secret Santa. So all of you participating in wave 2 should have an address by now. If not, pls message me.

CA user, you're package should get there tomorrow. Hope you enjoy

I might look into it (means I'd actually need to get Facebook) but what I have in mind is probably a one-shot thing...speaking of, though, the first part of this army just arrived!
I'm thinking a nice deep red and bronze for the armour. I have the bronze figured out, but has anyone got ideas for the red? I was currently thinking Mechrite Red (Or whatever its called now) base followed by...whatever Red Gore/Scab Red is called now?

Of course I forget the picture.

Canada anons are there any sweets that you can't get over there that would be nice to get in your secret santa?

Any tips for freehand designs on capes? I want to attempt it but don't want to fuck it up.

our common candy bars (kit kat, coffee crisp, things like that) are advertised as milk chocolate, though the mostly contain lard and no milk. so any kind of nice chocolate bars are good, as well as mint and orange chocolate. (my two personal favorites). there is a polish strawberry yogurt bar that i like.

We used to have amaxing Milk Chocolate in the UK.
I tried a hershey bar from an import shop and it just tasted like cocoa and wax.

Then a US firm bought out Cadbury and now it's all palm oil shit.

You can always paint over it if you don't like the result, just go for it broski. Keep a steady hand and a nice, fine tip on your brush.

get a super soft pencil.

Practice makes perfect.

When i lived on an AFB in UK, i used to gnosh the fruit & nut bars from the machines in the trams, damn those were good. Captcha was to select tea lol

That would probably look pretty fucking neat.

I used the spare tl asscannons from all the Ravenwing upgrade sprues for my Razorbacks.

Spare Assault cannons?

No such thing, in fact i need more, more i say,!

BRRT for the BRRT god, casings for the brass throne!

Every Ravenwing kit comes with the parts to make Sammael on Sableclaw. I built one of him out of pity because it's either him on his jetbike or nothing and that left about 10 ACs.

Still got to figure out what to do with all the Heavy Bolters one of these days.

I didn't send anything edible in my SS parcels. That goes for you especially, Beckenham user... some might contain lead.

>our common candy bars (kit kat, coffee crisp, things like that) are advertised as milk chocolate, though the mostly contain lard and no milk.

I didn't think the chocolate was the big element to Coffee Crisp. It's been hard as hell to get them here in the US, but World Market has started carrying them.

>We used to have amazing Milk Chocolate in the UK.

Yorkie bars! Not available in pink! Having trouble finding *those* in the States!

>Then a US firm bought out Cadbury and now it's all palm oil shit.

Oh? It's been almost fifteen years since I was there, but knowing that I couldn't exchange any coinage, I spent a lot of my spare change on those Cadbury machines they had at every tube stop!

>Still got to figure out what to do with all the Heavy Bolters one of these days.

Support your local Techmarine.

I'm fairly new to building minis and my first properly big model is here, a Baneblade. It seems straightforward if time consuming to build.
Do models this size need any particular special treatment when building, or should I be OK with regular GW plastic glue (all I have at the moment)?

Going to pick up some superglue as well, any particular best brand or do I just get whatever?

are there any primarch sized space marine helmets? i want my Lorgar to wear helmet instead of showing his ugly face

Also, after building most of a War Convocation sans Knight I'm now drowning in spare Admech parts since they're all dual kits. Is it usually cool if I replace some of the sponsons with Admech guns and/or generally Mechanicum it up a bit? If I'm going to be using it with both 40k and 30k Admech armies, I think it would be better of it looks the part.

Seems like somebody's getting a Johnny!

UK anons, are there any trinkets/treats you cant get, that you'd like from the US?

Wave 2 user here, don't have an address.

Just emailed you so you know who I am

Also will be sending package probably Monday, so dont be bummed if its here closer to Santarnalia

Now to just turn the stirrups into something that can hold a spear or two.

Noice.

Guns are always appreciated. But failing that, the American ability to out peanut butter in anything any make it work is always nice.

Did anyone get their daemonettes yet?

I dont think this sawed off will make it there, even if it can fit in a large shoebox.

And huh, peanut butter affinity, eh? Never heard that before, I'll go look. After the whole job thing and getting all that cash stolen, this is pretty fun.

Very odd question. What kind of rocks do yall have in bongland

Really depends where in the country. Cornwall is on a fuckton of granite which is giving them cancer on account of the radon, the Lake District has a lot of limestone, there's chalk country...

tl;dr how long is a piece of string?

Radon. Neat. We've just got odd weather near the military base where there used to,be nuke storage, but now its all closed off and 'nothing to see here' which im pretty sure is something radioactive like that.

Is the /wip/ community objectively the best on Veeky Forums?

It's my favorite
Little autism
Genuine help
High expectations but fair

Its one of the very few threads i visit at all, so i dunno

Certainly among the top 20 i'd assume.

It's good, we just need to get our newfags to read the OP.

But that's the issue with practically everything.

Idk. Ive seen /b/ go from one end of the spectrum to the other, but consistently yes. /wip/ is the finest thread i know, and in fact does not, suck eggs.

i really need some Help with getting my equipment looking better. I painted everything with khaki and then the camo. then a light sepia wash. not sure what to do next, I was thinking black wash on crevasses? also considering getting a MIG weathering set.. but I own a MIG sand dust paint (unused) and have paint to attempt that sponge damage method. just unsure how to proceed.. help me!

Wash all the bolts in a dark brown wash like agrax to make them stand out, i would also suggest doing the cracks in a brown and not black because your vehicles are mostly earth tones.

Can I get some inspo/ideas on how to do Bloodletter hellblades?

A dark brown or even black (i'd go with brown first) pin wash might give you some better contrasts for your vehicles in general. That sepia wash seems a bit light.

I usually paint the colors on again after a wash, but that won't work with the camo pattern you choose. Pic related for example is base colors, then decals, then sepia wash (vallejo one, unthinned, so its pretty strong) and then brown, green and yellow re-painted while leaving a few spots of the darkend down colors from before.
Then i added a couple of chips here and there with a rust and then a metal color.

The tires are weathered with a mix from pigments (vallejo, but mig is just as good), pva-glue, water and a bit of matte varnish. Barely visible but underneath the vehicle i used a texture paint from vallejo

For weathering in general i recommend texture paint as a base and then dabbling on various washes and some pigments as well to give it a bit of color variety. I can show you a 2nd pic of that if you want.

Oh, and one thing i would do if i were you: The tracks of that Jagdpanzer: Paint them in a darker rust-like color, not pure metal. Only a slight metal drybrush to the very edges of the track links.

was gonna say the same thing.
Go brown instead of black.

As for weathering, there are some great tutorials out there explaining the technique better than I could in a post on here. Just google around a bit.
I can also recommend looking through 'The Weathering Magazine' There were some really great articles in those too. If you are crafty enough you can find the pdfs floating around online too.
>pic related
From the 3rd issue 'Chipping'

>Is the /wip/ community objectively the best on Veeky Forums?

I'm biased, but it's certainly my favourite. Depending on who stops by, /btg/ () has its good days too, though.

Basically this. Personally i would do it more subtle than in that pic, but thats a matter of taste i guess. Some people just like it rough.

This kind of chipping will achieve 2 effects: Your vehicles look more realistic and at the same time they get some kind of edge highlight which you can't really do in a way you would do it on a Space Marine tank because of the camo and the overall style.

On your yellow-ish vehicles a very dark brown ("red primer", or "rust tracks" by mig for example) might work best. A very dark grey also works well.

An alternative (not as good looking, but again.. taste) might be a subtly drybrush with a dust color over the whole vehicle.

>/btg/
waifu posting and bickering about clan allegiance made them unbearable at one point. Stopped going there a while ago

>Priming and basecoating 1 IW by hand: about 1 hour of on and off work
>Doing the same for 2 models and using an airbrush: 10 mins

Holy shit, leaving and never coming back. I'll just race through my backlog with that baby.

Oh my goodness, that's a dryfit I made more than a year ago.
It it still in the dry fit, basecoated stage...

Duncan was like the rest of us once.

Didn't quite properly.

Wave 2 guy, haven't got an address, I've dropped you an email so you know who I am

Got it, and resent. (Your mail was marked as spam by the way, maybe mine too?)

yeah got it will be sending it out shortly

I feel bad for everybody who doesn't have Whittakers to be honest familia.

Glowing orange is what I did for my khorne bros. Here's my Herald and wip kos with the same effect at larger size.

Does anyone have any suggestions for removing ZAP gel from models?

Here's a WE veteran marine I built today. Think the big double chainaxe could count-as a power axe, or do I need to add something to it?

Filthy heretics! They look good, keep it up

Agreeing with anons above. It'd look fucking badass.

Anyone? Don't want to be a dick, but I don't want to screw this up.

You have any pics of those from the front?

plastic or metal?

Can't speak to your questino about the Ad-Mech bits, but the baneblade should be fine with plastic glue.