WIP: Work in Progress Thread

Getting stuff done edition.

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Painting music
Dynatron - Pulse Power
youtube.com/watch?v=Ak1-qLbHHCM

Previous Threads


Other urls found in this thread:

youtu.be/b46R5YwUCho
anvilindustry.co.uk/AFTERLIFE/Republic/Republic-Raider-Exo-Mech
maxmini.eu/conversion-bits/melee-weapons-shields/mechanical-shields-bits
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/244481-all-hallows-guard/
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

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Hey! So, months ago, I had a dubs contest to see what I would paint a tyranid guy I have lying around. Blazing oragane and sky blue won, and after moving to a new city and starting a new career at the last second, I have sky-guy done.

It has been a WHILE since I've done anything with orange, so this was a good exercise for me. Also haven't done claws in a while, but I enjoyed doing this anyway.

Next up, Ultra-nid.

Very high contrast, but that looks better than I would have expected from the colour combination.

Reposting this for the user asking about alternative models for feral/feudal guardsmen.

These are Men-At-Arms bodies with Cadian bits and some other stuff which I don't know the origin of.

anyone paint wizards know how i can achieve this color scheme, mainly the armor chestplate and the dirty tan clothing?

Dirty tan is a khaki/cream (or perhaps even a pale green) washed with brown, while you could achieve the breastplate with something equivalent to Leadbelcher with brown ink.

In response to Britishanon sending to my depressing self in NC:

Mine is also crossing the ocean, so it might be each other. Who knows, would be neat.

Armor is easily achievable by painting it steel and adding some matt black wash all over. Uniform is olive+yellow in different proportions for each layer I believe, from almost dark olive to almost yellow.

Those other bits are from the Skitarii Ranger/Vanguard kit.

These look neat, but good luck with finding bretonian men at arms for a reasonable price these days. People on ebay are at super-jew-mode when it comes to unbuilt bretonia stuff.

Hey guys, what do you think of these shields? I'm thinking about getting them for my Space Marines. They're supposedly made out of plastic and pewter.

And heres another look at the shields. On one hand I found them for cheap; but on the other hand, they kind of look cheap.

There is a color by vallejo model color called "english uniform". This is a very darkish khaki which should be close to that pics fatigues.

Not sure about the breastplate, maybe a dark gun metal with brown wash on top of it?

Keep in mind they will look alot smaller on a Space Marine than on these minis.
But with paint and highlights and a wash they will look way better than on your pic.

If they are cheap.. go for it i guess. It never hurts to try something.

They could work for Combat shields, you might be pushing it for storm shields. they might need some cleaning up before you paint them, but a good paintjob can overcome a mediocre part, I say.

Yeah, I was thinking they're too small to be breacher shields but they'll make decent combat shields. I'll think about it some more I guess, thanks.

Tonks, tonks everywhere!

>I see you have Reaper's brush-on sealer, have you used it?

The paints and half-completed Captain Centos in belong to Lyn Stahl (sister of AJ Stahl, for those who frequent the Warhammer Store in Fort Worth) of Metalhead Minis. You'll have to ask her how she feels about it.


>How do you find the mouldline remover?

Citadel's mould line remover is top notch, but expensive. You can buy one at GW or a Chapter-Approved retailer for $17. Every once in a while Micro Mark will put their competing product, the Seam Scraper, on sale for $10, but shipping will usually kill the deal... so make it worth it by buying yourself some casting supplies from them while you're at it!

>I just use a hobby knife to scrap my mouldlines and I'm wondering if I should upgrade to the Citadel one or some other brand's version.

The back of a hobby knife works almost as well as Citadel's remover. There are no sharp parts on the mold line remover, though, so if you slip or drop it, you run no risk of damaging your model or impaling yourself. Additionally, its "blade" actually runs the entire length of the tool (the wooden sides are merely attached to it), so it won't bend, warp, or snap off.

It was pricey, but I'm glad I bought it. Damn thing even works on my old metal miniatures!

Nice. I really like the tracks and the overall chipping. exactly the right amount.

They only lack a bit of mud and earth pigments here and there.

Wouldn't a proper surgical knife handle like pic related work the same way without a blade?

>Wouldn't a proper surgical knife handle like pic related work the same way without a blade?

It very well might. I've never held a surgical knife like that in my hand before.

It's the square edge on the Citadel mold line remover (and also the back edge of your hobby knife, if you're using it as such) that do the work. The Ciatdel tool is going to be thicker and sturdier than a disposable X-acto blade, and those surgical knives *look* comparable to me. Is the part where the blade goes rounded, or does it have an edge with an angle you can drag along to get rid of the mold lines?

It has an edge where the x-acto blade can slot into.

My scalpel handles have chamfered or rounded edges (so they feel better in the hand and so the blade is the only sharp edge), so they won't be very good scrapers.

The Legion grows!

I have both, a number 3 made by Feather like on that pic and a cheap knockoff #3. The Feather one is like you said: Well made and round/soft edges so it lies good in the hand.
The cheaper one has very hard edges all around the handle though.

What models are those? They look dope!

The backside of any hobby knife works just as well as the moldline remover in my experience. Its all just a matter of finding the right size to fit the model.
So do your self a favor, and save some money in the process, just stick with your knife.

>What models are those? They look dope!

Those are the bad guys from Warzone, the Dark Legion.

Alright I went for it, I'll post comparison pics of the shields with combat and storm shields when I get them in the mail this week.

So I did these Nurgle autocannon havocs a couple years ago and didn't use them much and just never got around to painting them. The new Death Guard rules look to make them useful, but I'm not happy with the heads. I'm thinking of using some MkIII heads in place of what I have now. Good plan?

I'd say so, though personally I think MKIII improves everything. They seem perfect for adding rust and dripping ichor to over the regular helmets.

Think I'm getting the hang of this now.

My 2nd Mini ever, got it up to wash stage. Forgot to wash the blade before taking the photo.

What we thinking?

I'm thinking I should learn to take a damn photo and rotate it right.

>5312x2988

We think you should open this pic up in paint, turn it into the right direction, resize it to 44% of its current size and then post it again.

Sorry user, but that does only take 2 minutes and makes looking at it so much easier.

...

my cat just drank a bunch of my paint water, should I be worried?

Just to be clear I was poking fun at the fact that the bloodletter's head is turned so far sideways, not that the picture is turned sideways.

If you're just using acrylic paints the furry bastard is probably gonna be okay.

It's non toxic so he's fine.

A cat wouldn't drink something with toxic paint in it anyway. These animals have good noses, they smell that stuff.

antifreeze smells like berries and animals will drink it. They have good noses, but they're fucking stupid.

Don't put antifreeze liquid in your paint water then i guess.

>tfw spending an evening painting with a big mug of tea and cat watching me work
I didn't know comfy levels of this magnitude could be reached

I'm envious, I'm cold, ran out of tea, my cat is nowhere to be seen and I've not started painting anything yet tonight. Literally the opposite of comfy

Yeah that was me getting bored during the modelling bit and thinking "What is stopping me doing a half Exorcist?" The answer is in fact nothing.

That's more me forgetting phones don't format for PC correctly like a dolt.

I think i remember your first one.

Your red looks kinda flat. A bit of a brighter red might help here.

Yeah I haven't even looked sideways at the idea of highlighting in any form because it scares the hell out of me because I'm totally inept. Should I just bite the bullet and go for it?

Does anyone have any tips for working with clear resin models? I just got some of Dark Age's clear yellow resin Embersparks, and this is my first time working with something like them.

you could start cheap and dry a drybrush first.

Cowards die many deaths, user. Bite the bullet.

Only resource I can think of is youtu.be/b46R5YwUCho

Thanks user.

Four mote to go for my Scions kill team (one more rifleman, then one of each special weapon). Any suggestions for personalization bits on the last ones? I have a few Skitarii and Tau boxes, plus (of course) the Scions box. For bits.

Sorry it's yuge, taken from my phone as I'm heading to work, phone doesn't support resizing

I'm always to stressed out to actually enjoy the hobby.
If I cant finish a model in one sitting, I'm pissed the rest of the day because of it, and cant think of anything else basically (like being really hungry, on your way home form the local pizza place with food in hand. You can only think of how good that first bite will taste!).
And if I do finish it in one go, Ill go all jumpy of all the time I just wasted painting a miniature, when I have several other chores to do.
Family, work, house and so on is taking its toll on me....

Oh hey, a package!

Sorry for file size :( I guess photo editor resizes my previously resized photos

>tfw still waiting and I haven't seen an user send anything to my area

tfw sent mine and the tracking ended when it left england so I have no idea if it's arrived or not

moar!

We tend to help with painting motivation, not anxiety with a side helping of ADD. You might want to consider seeking actual help dude.

oh hey guys i got a package!

the skitarii head fits quite nicely on scions

Open... then tidy up

Here's everything together! Closeups to come.

Thanks user! I've actually never painted a Metal model before so this ought to be fun

Closeup of the letter. I agree with your sentiments on the pin. Also thank you for the reaver sprues! I've been wanting to try something new. Also I have to know where you found this stationary.

After having a rough week, this is exactly what I needed to come home to. Thank you user and have a Merry Christmas!

Are you

or

I was actually surprised how well it came out.

Are all me.

i sent a package to nj this morning so if you are nj user you should just get it before xmas

how do you paint with the same style of john blanche?
I'd like to make a nurgle army with a gritty look and I love his pieces but never get that feeling of dirt right. should I go for heavy washes?

Does John Blanche paint minis? I've never seen any.
His artwork is very hit or miss for me. Some of it's amazing looking, other times it's just fucking stupid looking.

Pic related is the latter.

>how do you paint with the same style of john blanche?
be John Blanche.
Seriously though he paints minis like he paints on canvas.
Strong black and white contrasts and ink washes.
Not the premixed GW stuff either, actual artists inks, as were commonly used back in the 80/90s for miniature painting.
He also uses the modern GW washes though.

And loads of tiny freehand with checker patterns and lettering.

The best way to copy a style is to use a specific reference and learn that way.
If you are not sure how to approach something, post an image of a miniature that you want to replicate the look of.

...

The guy has such a special style on minis, I love it. I might not love all his canvas but his minis have a specialplace in my heart.

I need more, user. Those are awesome.

I suggested that scheme because I thought it would look like hot garbage, but here you are proving me wrong with your good looking mini.

Just type blanchitsu models my man.

this looks good.

Apologies for bad lighting in advance. Done with layers and starting highlights. Any advice on the weapon? Looks boring in mostly silver, should I add some color on the un-highlighted bits?

looking good, I think the weapon could use a little dirtying up though. At the moment it just looks too clean and I don't think clean suits Orks

>John Blanche.
>back in the 80/90s

Pic related. This is John at work c. 1986.

looks nice and clean, skin could use another layer of lighter green, base him and it's golden.

So I've been looking at a few things and I've kinda wondering, is a set order to follow in bases, washing and layers? I tried highlighting after washing as the video guide I was following said and it to me gave a really noticeable difference when I'd prefer a more subtle change.

Is there a set order? Does it depend on personal preference?

Sorry for being stupid but I don't really know anyone to ask.

Washes are great as a painting short cut most of the time or for specific effects. If you're looking for really smooth transitions, the only real way to do it without an airbrush is the magic of lots and lots of really thin layers.

I see. My issue with my experience so far was that you'd wash... and then the highlighted areas are unwashed and are even a shade lighter than the bit you just washed so you end up with a hyper jarring pop when in my mind surely you'd do those things first, the wash then tidy that with the same colour but unwashed. Then again I also have a deep fondness for darker colours and the smoother look so perhaps it's my personal taste being trash.

Post results!

any tips for converting death guard marines?

There is no set order and no rules.
Paint how you think it looks best.

Learn from the paint guides and take the information into account, but don't fall into the mindset of that being the right or the only way to do something.

If you want a softer transition do the base, the layer and then wash. The wash is gonna blend the colors together.
Or just highlight with the base after the wash again and forget about the layer.
Whatever looks best.

Could you be more specific?

should I add plaguebearer bits? should I go full greenstuff? should I try to make each marine different?

Im not the only one who lists his conversion ideas like this, thank god.

I felt like i was making a Napoleon Dynamite sketchbook

>should I add plaguebearer bits?
Sounds like a good idea. Plague knifes and mutated flesh are good. Horns in similar patterns to the plague bearers on the helmets of your marines would also look good I think.
>should I go full greenstuff? should I try to make each marine different?
If you want to, sure. I mean the baseline should be they have to be armed like they should and that's it from a the minimum required perspective. Everything else is up to you. With the mk3 plastic kits now you could even try to convert models in a similar vein to the old 2nd edition models with the prussian pickelhaube design, if you know what I mean.

It's more art than science. Plaguebearer bits could work. Other bits could work. Greenstuff can work.

But do try to make them all unique. Chaos and all that.

I'm currently putting a ghostkeel but im not 100% on the head. Anyone got any suggestions for an simple but good looking conversion/swap?

pls help

anvilindustry.co.uk/AFTERLIFE/Republic/Republic-Raider-Exo-Mech
+
maxmini.eu/conversion-bits/melee-weapons-shields/mechanical-shields-bits
+
40mm bases
=
Mechanized Bullgryns, for the Imperial regiment that needs the muscle without the abhuman. (Guardsman for scale)

One more for a little more detail. Sorry, working off of a phone camera here.

Would orange and black space marines look to silly? Tempted to buy thise pumpkin heads from Anvil Industries and make a gimmicky Halloween-based Space Marine chapter. Maybe even make them loyalist Night Lord succesors.

bolterandchainsword.com/topic/244481-all-hallows-guard/