WIP - Work In Progress General

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Painting music
Dynatron - Pulse Power
youtube.com/watch?v=Ak1-qLbHHCM

Other urls found in this thread:

meridianminiatures.com/steam-and-aether/heads
cpmodelsminiatures.co.uk/28mm Separate heads.htm
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

Test model for a necromunda gang I'm putting together, still don't know if I should go for a more rag tag look or keep the shirts and pants uniform. was thinking of mixing grey, brown, and green shirts while maintaining that dark green armour throughout

aaaaaaaaaaand the back

looks real slick m8, very nice clean paintjob

what are you planning for the base

Looks very green. Maybe give them beige or brown fatigues? You need some other colour to break up all the green.

May try out the citadel urban bases but I've heard some negative things about them, or try to make my own toxic industrial waste base

Sicknasty.

Did you keep the genestealer cult icon hanging off his belt on purpose? He is a low-key cultist?

They're fine. Details a little dulled but it makes it look better if you go for battle damaged or worn look.

...

jesus fuck.
First I missed the new thread, then I quote the wrong post

As someone who thought they looked awesome and bought the box of 60x 32mm base I don't suggest them. The cast quality is very low. I quite honestly have chinese recasts that are better quality than those bases.

Spend the money on buying materials to make your own sweet bases. I know it's more work but they will look so much better.

I can't claim I'm particularly proud of this one. I've got to clean it up a lot before I will be satisfied enough to call it finished. Always had shit skill with painting eldar.

fuck me

you're gonna have to tell me where these heads are hidden because these are all that seem to exist
meridianminiatures.com/steam-and-aether/heads

Asking here since I figure I'm likely to reach some history bros. What superficial things scream Ancient and Antiquity Germanic to you the way helmet plumes and pteruges say Roman?

clubs and animal pelts? Not sure there's real iconic equivalence.

Mail mostly.

Maybe long swords and montefortino style helmets, but those are more iconic for celts than germans.

Would this be a good place to ask about casting my own minis and tokens? I'm gonna.

I'm curious about vacuum degassing. That's something I do with my resin once I mix the two parts, but before I pour it into a mold? For some reason I always thought you'd have the resin in the mold and them apply a vacuum to coax bubbles out of the nooks and crannies. Set me straight.

>tfw find this bit after about an hour and a half scouring

not bad

Nice and clean look I can respect. Scheme is great. Just dirty them up a touch hive scum live in filth

Imperial knight fag out REEEE

it's from a bloody dunecrawler

Question for you guys.

This may sound like a weird question, but how do I go about modeling a bolter+flamer+plasma gun? Basically, the model has a combi-plasma AND a normal flamer, and I have no idea how to model it because it's on a sister of battle.

MkIII Death Guard (more like Best Guard) legionary coming together.

the damage and texture make it look rad. was the texture on the knee caps intentional? it looks cool!

Anons, do any of you have a pdf of Rogue Trader painting guides? Specifically Dark Angels if possible.

It's an unfortunate(?) side effect of the mineral spirits I used to spread rust striking solution. Not as noticeable in real life.

Why yes, you are in the right place!
Not sure if there are any resin casters on right now, but here's the standard .pdf that gets passed around here!

is it okay to mix metallic and non-metallic paints of a similar color? (ex lead bealcher and mechanicus grey)

Oh crap, wrong thread! Terribly sorry, anons.

More Birdmen

Is the head too small, I honestly cannot tell

yeah kinda small

I dunno. Could probably stand to be a tiny bit larger, but it seems fine. Maybe post it next to another model for scale?

Got the main body color done, next is black I think. Also ordered a Tamiya US equipment set, so I'll have some bags and gear to stick on this thing to give it some flavor.

Don't Horrors come with a larger beaked head that may fit this model better?

Decided to skew simple with the color scheme on the ARC-X1. Nuln oil layered with coal satin holographic paint every couple of layers gave the black a really cool dirty metallic reflectiveness that's really awesome when the things moving in light. Mixed balthazar, sepia and reikland fleshshade to achieve the bronzing on the engine components. Basic fluorescent glow purple paint for the engines and some soulstone blue gem color for the canopy and that's all she wrote! Has a bit of old newness that a virtually unused, mothballed prototype would probably have after sitting in a hanger most of its life.

Just wanted to say thanks to you guys for giving me some incredible work to look up to!

There is a bird head in the plastic spawn kit that may fit better. The High Elf eagle or phoenix head may fit too.

Herald head is too big, Phoenix would be fun.

The spawn head thing is bigger than the horror

Actually pic doesn't make the herald seem to bad.

Will fiddle more tomorrow

Herald head looks great dude.

Posted this in the /hhg/ but haven't; really had any replies, so again:

>read heresy book
>warhound has underchin bolters of some sort, either heavy or normal, can't remember
>decide thats pretty cool, want to do that with mine
>what do you think would look the best and where would they be placed for maximum cool?
>pic related, someone suggested hurricane bolters
>also i have lost my blutack

That guy's kits are my favorite tank conversions.

Work on my Thousand Sons

>Don't talk to me or my thousand sons ever again

Candy canes included on Contemptor just in time for the holidays.

Well I probably wouldn't do it as I don't think it looks good, but maybe just put one set of bolters in the center instead of 2 sets as you have their.

But yeah personally not a fan.

user, the Contemptor looks great, but the Praetor's weapon looks retarded. It's huge even for 40k. I mean that thing is anime-tier huge. It's so huge, a dreadnought could use it. Just, no.

what

Its barely longer than a normal powersword, and not even as thick as a power axe

Another trooper for my Rogue Trader dynasty: A Mordian Iron Guard doing his best impression of a Tempestus Scion.

oi mate,
you dont want to vacuum degass after the pour because the material rises and falls which leads to spills and general mess making. As for vacuum before pour and again after pour...I dunno. It goes into a pressure pot after the pour to make whatever bubble in there super tiny and undetectable.

so mix->vacuum*->pour->pressure pot**->profit

*must pull >= 29 inches of mercury, otherwise you're better off mixing carefully than using something that only pulls 28, less is moar harm than good

**I shouldn't have to tell you not to cheap out on this, the last thing you want is for it to spread shrapnel throughout your flat.

Implying that spehss muhreens can't wield anime sized weapons

Yeah, not like there is a precedent for this shit in 40k or anything

It's a short polearm dude.

Tau were a mistake.

I liek it. How do you do the red?

*jetpacks behind you*

nothing personal, gue'la

Top one looks good bro

however you want to do it. doesnt it make more sense for the guns to be on like a ring mount so they can swivel? the way you have it modelled here means it could only shoot where the head points.

Im kinda not too big a fan of the idea anyway but its your hobby so do what you like. If i ever got a warhound id put a big spear and chain launcher like in another Heresy book

These look badass man. I really like the red scheme, its sexy. And the termi armour dude looks like he could wreck some shit, i love it.

Are you putting that tank turret on that body? If so, can I see a picture of them assembled? If not, would you take a picture of them assembled anyway?

Hey, /WIP/ I'm having trouble keeping a point on my brushes for like painting lines, my brush just keeps spreading. I'm using a GW fine detail brush.

Here it is unprimed. I wanted something large but not baneblade size for my army, think this fits pretty well. Got the land raider from a friend, don't play 40k so it gives me the freedom to do whatever I want with it.

Keep paint away from the metal part where the hairs start. Wash your brushes

Yeah, what the other user said.
If you got paint in the ferrule your brush is fucked.

So make sure to clean it out every time you use it and never let paint soak up that high into the brush.

When buying a new brush - at least in a good art store - there usually will be a pot of water and some paper.
If you can draw spirals with the brush without it losing it's tip it's a good one. The ones you should buy.

Where do you get these?

What's the bod from

Silver Tower ogre.

Cheers man

Not that guy but its from an ebay seller called machinator248

So, nobody's gonna say anything about this thing?

Bunch of those Birdgryn, without the armour, led by Magnus without his armour. Muscle wizards. Muscle wizards everywhere.

Its averagely painted, which means it'll be ignored.

Veeky Forums only respond to really great work or cases of thin your paints.

What's there to say, does he want feedback?

This looks extremely good. Makes me wish I had some of these neophytes to toy with too!

Mind sharing what colors you used? I think it looks fantastic!

Made a Crozius Arcanum for my Wolf Priest venerable dreadnought.

A friend who plays BA had a spare dreadnought force weapon and I had shields from the Custodes.

Also kitbashed a las-plas and twin linked assault cannon for my Razorback.

none of that is on their website tho

And now I see the mold lines on the las cannon and top plasma gun...

Luckily I can scrape them a touch up with some light silver as a highlight.

People only noticing mold lines when posting pics seems to be a recuring theme of these threads.

Looking well damaged!

It doesn't look bad at all, but unfortunately, between the fuck huge size and the complete lack of lighting, it's hard to see anything and comment on it user.

I would like some feedback/advice, please. I've been having a hard time getting these even halfway decent, I find them more difficult to work on than guardsmen.

Very well done.

Bear pelts. Berserkers.

it's a little too small but if you can get some really good vein distension goin in the neck it could look good, emphasizing the muscular freak look of the model.

Lets start then.

You're getting there, but you're not there yet.

1. Paint details in order. You've gotten blue on the spirit stone holder, you painted it in the "wrong order" paint the largest colour source first then do the detail after to stop this from happening.

2. You've gone for a dark base with a light layer, that's good, it adds depth, but you need to be more patient / controlled with your brush strokes, the lighter blue seems thick and applied... sloppily? How can you have painted the spirit stones so neatly but then added the lighter blue layer like this?

3. Highlight painted on with a brush far larger than needed and could be neater. Compare the application of this paint to the white paint next to it, it's much neater.

4. Hair is ok, I think you could probably dry brush the raised areas (a small amount) to raise the contrast, looks a bit flat at the moment.

5. Brush control, red spirit stone has bled onto the holder. paint the larger surface colour first.

6. Gun looks flat black, consider a very fine edge highlight or dry brush to give depth.

7. (not pictured) your spirit stones all look flat red. If you don't want to paint typical gems then get some of the GW technical paint.

a. paint the area with stormhost silver
b. go over the stormhost silver with one of the "gem" paints for something that will look better than a dull red surface.

Good job, keep painting.

You're getting there but you're not there yet.


1. You should paint the largest surface colours first, in this case the armour, you painted this after you painted the spirit stone holders as you have paint on it, it doubles up with control your brush more.

2. You've gone for a dark base with a light layer, this is good but it adds depth but your application of your light layer is too sloppy and thick, it doesn't need to be so harsh.

3. Again, the light layer here has been added with a far too large brush and looks sloppy, compare it with the neat line of the bone to the right, control your brush by resting your hands against your desk / each other.

4. hair is ok, could lighten up the raised hair ridges with a very light dry brush of orange

5. spirit stone red has gone over the the broze holder, paint the larger surface first

6. Gun is flat black, consider very light grey dry brush

7. (not pictured) your spirit stones are all flat red, if you're not going to paint them in the traditional style consider using the GW technical paints

a. paint them stormhost silver
b. use the gem paint (spiritstone red etc) to make it look a little more effective than just red regular paint.

Good job, keep painting.

Nice, I like the effect it's over the top and very 40k, good job.

Looks great and it's painted well but it's too green.

1. Ribbed armour is green
2. cloth material is green
3. gloves are green.
4. Torso / shoulder guard is green.
5. Rebreather is green.
6. Mining light is green.

takes aware from the model, but otherwise I think its going to be a great project.

Not that guy, I found them for you though.

cpmodelsminiatures.co.uk/28mm Separate heads.htm

Clean, subtle, not ott damage, very nice, like it.

Thank you very much. It's great to get some feedback on what I need to do to improve!

Guys I'm trying my hand at using some woodland scenics realistic water for the first time. What does /wip/ think? I'm thinking it needs another layer to add depth.

Any water experts lurking?

You're welcome, I shy away from giving feedback because the last thing I want is someone posting something there proud of and I come along like a critic for the New Yorker and point out everything wrong and how it should be better. I'm a wuss and don't like to make others feel bad.

So if someone posts

>Hey look at my dude

I generally won't say anything.

But if they ask for feedback then happy to give it.

Photo of whole model.

Looks superb, there's just not enough there.

MAKE SURE IT'S TOTALLY 100% DRY

then add some more.

Put masking tape around the side of the base to allow the effect to pool up against it.

Cheers bro. Yeah I'll wait 24 hours and add more tomorrow. Do have any pro tips to making the edge smooth if I tape it? I've seen people do it and have it come out looking awful, but I've seen golden demon models where the waters edge is sharp as....

That Eldar looks good. I second the advise on the gun.

For the spirit stones (gems and lenses in general) i recommend gloss varnish on top of something like pic related to make them look "shiny".

I have no idea how to do water properly but i already like how it looks.