WIP - Work In Progress General

>Fire raptor
>Recast

It's like you're asking for a 3 hours struggle to build it. The original is already a huge mess, can't imagine what the recast is.

I am waiting with some slight dread but a friend made an order for a bunch of stuff and it was cheap so I decided to take a chance.

Hey /wip/, I've just found out about Blue Stuff from Green Stuff World (greenstuffworld.com/en/reusable-blue-stuff/8-blue-stuff-mold-8-bars.html).
Is it comparable to Oyumaru (amazon.com/Reusable-Making-Oyumaru-Perfect-Project/dp/B00MG5PYPI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481800208&sr=8-3&keywords=Oyumaru)?

I'm probably going to end up going with the Oyumaru just because of availability, but they seem to work exactly the same. Is there any notable differences?

What the hell do I use to drill a 10mm hole? I've got pin vices which go up to 3mm so I could do it painfully by making multiple smaller holes, but I'd rather not. I'm clueless when it comes to proper drills, I've been looking at hand drills but they all only seem to go up to 8mm.

>need 10mm because thats the size my magnets are.

My Greenskin green primer clogged to death, so no progress on Orks until January.

I managed to rig up a mount for the Vulcan mega bolter to count as assault cannon for my Razorback

I could assemble more deathwatch, but my razor-saw slipped, so can't really do precision work.

Make a simple T-handle.
Hot glue a 10mm drill bit to it.
Drill like a boss.

I is basically the exact same stuff, but one is tinted blue for marketing reasons.
>Blue stuff
>Green Stuff
>Grey Stuff
>etc

How the fuck did you manage that, tell me you weren't holding something in your hand as you used the saw on it. Get a vice.

I
You know, that's not too bad of an idea

In the same way as the rest of ya army. Always remembah that.

>How the fuck did you manage that, tell me you weren't holding something in your hand as you used the saw on it. Get a vice.

Well i needed to cut a plastic fuel barrel in half to use for the gun mount., suddenly the saw cracked the glue and came down.

I do need to get a proper miniature as the one i have is tiny and has a sharp edge that ruins shit it holds.

But yeah, gonna be a bitch as saw cuts are ragged shits that heal poorly.

You can get pads for vices. Look into the kind that watchmakers use, my dads got some and they're more than adequate for holding anything thats notbigger than a dreadnought, or smaller than a smurf hand. Fill your cuts with superglue and call it a day.

Yeah, my old vioce was a dollarstore piece of shit, some soert of half spring loaded thing, it jumped off the tread while trying to gape over the vulcan turret..

Buy a cheapo screwdriver set where you get interchangeable drive sockets like pic related.
Buy cheapo drill set.

Works wonders.

You would get twice the bang for your buck from this seller, but no shipping to Straya or US.

ebay.com/itm/Oyumaru-modeling-Compound-Moulding-Stick-Clear-12pcs-set-/231356647299?hash=item35ddee4783:g:lvAAAOxyNSVSQ7iT

newbie, what is a dremel and what do i use it for?

drilling, cutting, sanding

wikihow.com/Use-a-Dremel-Tool

no, still haven't recieved it - but like I mentioned in I think the post office has been swamped by christmas stuff, not to go all /pol/ but >>privatize the postal service, fucking never. here's to getting it in january - desu I'm just happy I'm getting something and I'll post me opening it the moment I come home with it user!

Tried making a tree for TT terrain, looking to make some more stuff that can add character to a game board.

If you guys had to do a year in miniatures what would be some of the big standouts for you?

Every fucking time I go into a wip thread people are painting one of 3 things:
1. Warhound Titan
2. Ogre Thaumathurge
3. The same goddamn Khorne guy that got shipped out in an issue of white dwarf or something.

I'd just like to know where the trends come from

Fuck, lets fix orientation

Thats a great idea, thank you

Any good painting guides for Death Korps in general ? There are some videos for troops and riders but commissars and canons are quite forgotten it would seem

thanks. some dude said current dremels spin too fast and might melt plastic, how factual is that statement and if factual what can i do?

I believe most quality one have a speed setting, evne then a light tough helps.

Postman comes, no secret Santa

Royal mail pls

Reposting from last thread, will be basing him up today.

Get the cheapest one. I got mine for like, 30$ and a set of cutting sanding tools for 30($90 worth if you buy it all piece by piece)

It has a high and low setting, neither of which has done damage (other than me slipping or dumb stuff.)

Magnus' finest coming through

man that blue is mighty dead.

So resizing is noble and all, but unless your camera is a potato I think you've resized so small that the highlights on the blue are nearly invisible.

You need more lighting to get rid of that graininess.

Your camera is shit but your painting doesn't seem to be.

That ultra beakie man is giving me a bone every time I see him!

...

Just finished my first ever figure, how badly did I do? Inb4 dirty nails, they're covered in paint.

Not a bad start! The photo isn't that gread but I see most of it.

You're doing good with the highlights but you might want to wash your bone and skin colors before applying the highlights to give the color more depth.

Nice cloak and beard user, how did you get that?

5 sec on a phone to make it more bearable. Think about it next time.

It's not terrible but is it the photo or did you or use any wash at all?
You end up with botched eyes and going over bones when trying to paint the crevices when you could use Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade to have a nice, thin finish.

Have you tried looking up Duncan's tutorials for Ghoul's skin and skeletons?

Side view. And thanks! I did a wash right after the bases, but I accidently covered most of it. When exactly is the best time to do washes? Between layers?

>When exactly is the best time to do washes?
I usually do it after the base color and before the highlights/layers.

I usually go about it that way:
- Apply base color
- Wash
- Broad highlight with the same base color
- Fine highlight(s) with layer paint(s)

Ill just repost this.
I wish vehicles werent so easy to paint

Just done my priming on:

10 BA Death Company and DC dread
BA Librarian
30k Ahriman which I'm painting because it was cheap and I like the model
Standard Chaos Lord
Discworld miniature I'm painting for a friend's birthday
Resin bases for my BA tac squad I finished recently

I've finally done a priming session without turning my hand completely black.

My resin Chainaxes for my 30K World Eaters came today, that I got from Anvil Minis, so cheers to the user who recommended them a few threads ago, they look breddy gud so I got about 20.

Here's my army. Got over 2000 points of Guard with pretty much all of it painted.It feels good anons.please no bully about unpainted Scions just bought them and put them together

Also how much Ironcrust do you need to get the cracked earth effect? I feel like either I smear too much on or not enough. Please help.

Thanks!

The cloak (GW colours)

Mechanicum + Black
Mechanicum
Mechanicum + Celestra
Celestra

With Nuln done as an early wash and then painted into the recesses. The combination priming was helpful for highlight placement and as an undercoat.

The beard is Celestra washed with Sepia and then highlighted with Ulthuan.

You need a thicc layer of the cracking paints, like scooping them on instead of painting. That board looks pretty nice.

I did not know he had tutorials for them. I will check those out post haste

I can't blame the phone camera on this one it's just the lighting here is really bad today, thick heavy overcast with no sunlight, trying to take an ambient picture and it all went a bit wrong.

Lets try take 2.

Unfortunately I think it's the opposite now and is too bright. Goddamn winter weather.

Glad you like them.

This is better.

I think that spear guy could do with the eye on his spear getting the gem treatment, that's a lot of gold out there with no blue or green to balance it. Similarly the staff on leaping guy.

Like the way you've got the energy under leaping dude, and don't forget the pages of his book.

got me some forge world deathwing termie pads
just in time to go with my spacehulk conversions
ordered some icons and bitz as my bitz box has been thoroughly raided

Thanks friendo. Would you recommend the texture paint scoop too? I heard a bit of sprue can work for it.

Like a lot of GW's tools (but not their knife) if money is no object, go for it. I got one because I try to buy something every time I'm in, whether it's a couple of paints or whatever.

If you've got a dead craft knife then you can scoop it with that, a lolly stick, a bit of sprue.

Tip for the texture paints (via my local's manager) for anyone doing a massive area that's going to take an entire pot at once: saw the pot in half and work from the halves, it's the only way to get every last drop.

I want an ultrabeakiemarine so bad

>Tip for the texture paints (via my local's manager) for anyone doing a massive area that's going to take an entire pot at once:

Better tip: Buy the crackling paint in 200ml pots from Vallejo or any other company that sells that stuff in large containers.

question since you are assembling the same models. how do you glue the arms on the marines without the bolters? Not physically but how do you guarantee a fit?
If I just glued on the two arms I would most likely fuck it up and the gun wouldn't sit right, so I glued the bolter to one arm and assembled like that.

probably just eye measurement, but you can just dryfit the bolter or attach it with bluetac.

When I do it I use superglue on the bolter then just snap it off.

I use superglue but I'm afraid I'll break plastic if I try to snap something off

Got a game coming up soon-ish, so I decided to put my other projects on hold and give an old friend a fresh coat of paint.

He's almost seventeen years old!

And anons call my ultras old-school. Love it.

Never seen the ogre here, but if i had a warhound you all will be seeing pictures of him for a month. The khorne model trend was because it was a cheap, nice model.
If you are going to make more of those trees try to use more cable and make more branches.

Thanks, yes, these lads are not fininished.

I tend to base my stuff once most of the things I'm happy with are done even though it's not 100% finished as it allows me to get a feel for how its going to look overall.

there's more work to be done on these lads (for one their huge powerpacks + cloaks), the book on leaping guy

Lighting on their crimson cloaks, and their staves need work as you say as it just a lot gold right now.

That's a fucking great idea!

Nice base as well.

>empirical
So some dude on the street orders me to post? What a heretic.

>get a 10mm pistol
>fire into plastic.

90% done with my Solitaire here. I really like how his color scheme came out.

Does anyone know where I can get some good human slave models? I wanted to get some to go with a Dark Eldar themed table, and the official ones are kind of lacking, especially when it comes to variety.

What's a good kit to get for 28mm/heroic female conversion fodder besides Witch (A)Elves/Sisters of Slaughter?

I'm not to worried about head or hair sculpts, mostly care about body proportions.

Help would be greatly appreciated. The GW website often crashes my tablet's browser, and I tried googling third-party but only found metal conversion parts sellers instead of full plastic kits.

Every time you post this I try to think but there are sadly very few. You could try the sisters of the thorn, but they're all mounted.

OOP Sigmarite Sisters on ebay are pretty nice.

What is your project? It would be helpful to know what you want to make, because male bodies can be used for a lot of projects, especially in armour.

Hasslefree has lots of semi-clothed and nude women.

Brother Vinni has some lewd slave girls too.

What about men who looks like they are doing forced labor as well? I want to go for prisoners of war that they are forcing to do shit largely for entertainment. Thanks for the tips though, I will need to look at those.

I just dryfit the bolter and adjust the arm posing while the glue between the arm and torso is drying. It can be kinda fiddly but as long as you're not too rough with it I've found it ensures the best result.

And he's done. Fun little project and a nice break from power armour.

I have a multitude of female small projects, but I'm mostly lacking in feminine-sized arms and torsos to work with.

The fewer things like large sleeves and cloaks to have to work around, the better. Like, the GW woodelves basic archer set is good for torsos, but limbs have too much stuff on them and not a lot of non-bow arms.

I don't quite need nude, but the less clothes and accessories, the better for me to sculpt over (or carve away accessories)where I need.

Can't do eldar, since those space elf amazons are as tall or taller than Marines.

Nice, that from the GW LoTR stuff?

It's the new(ish) sculpt for The Hobbit, yeah.

It's a minor miracle in that it doesn't look like he's suffering an allergic reaction to bee-stings in the face, but on the other hand it's finecast and the mold lines are a bitch.

If it was easy it wouldn't feel as rewarding to complete. ;) well done m80

>since those space elf amazons are as tall or taller than Marines
Witch elves are as tall, if not taller than eldar. As an example, the death hag is about a head taller than a space marine in the patented space marine squat.

But anyways the sorceress bits in the dark elf black dragon kit might be something to look at. Legs aren't much use, but the arms and torsos are basically naked.

My last work was fixing up the Fortress of Elegance. It had lost some bits - some permanently - during its 10 year tour of duty in the FLGS display case, from where it got sent to various missions without my knowledge or consent, like a 1 year stint in a cultural history museum and some sort of video report on gaming.

The nubs on top of the sponson turrets were gone completely, so I replaced them with spare smoke launchers. Luckily my custom mixed lavender paint hasn't dried out in 10 years.

Pretty Marine allies?

Sweet turret

Yeah. Someday I'll paint the actual Pretty Marines, too.

Bummersaurus rex.

>90% done
>More like 45% done

You got the basics done, that being said, you have all the right colors on all the right areas (no spilling) which is a great start. But you need to ad some shade, because otherwise this model will only look flat, especially the white. After shade, start with your highlights, and finish with some fine edge highlights. Ad a tad of weathering if thats your thing (at least put some dust on those shoes).

But it is a great start, _Ill give you that!

I've yet to see any Witch Elves/SoS in person, so I assumed they were similal normalish height to other WHFB elves. I take the marine powersquat in mind when I consider model height, as when not in squat they are notably taller. I also take toe-extenders into consideration, like on Witchelves and Herliquins, since I'd be removing those.

I'll throw some bits from the blackdragon into my shopping card at bitzbox, but that's not exactly a great kit for buying to get a load of conversion fodder.

Thanks for your help, by the way.

Hi guys, /r/inging the Everchosen painting guide. Its not in the links in OP's.

Can anyone help an user out?

Eh, he colored everything within the lines, that's the hard part. Edge highlighting and a wash are 10 minutes' work.

>I assumed they were similal normalish height to other WHFB elves
So did I, but scale creep hit the newer elf models kinda hard. They're head and shoulders above normal humans, which may or may not be a good thing depending on what you want to do with the models.

youtube.com/watch?v=pzkFgRTOWZA