/wip/ Painting/Sculpting/Conversion General

Don't let your paints freeze over edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU
>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Painting music
Dynatron - Pulse Power
youtube.com/watch?v=Ak1-qLbHHCM

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imgur.com/a/7yb4p
amazon.com/General-Purpose-Airbrush-Precision-Dual-action/dp/B002P646DE/ref=sr_1_18?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1482006859&sr=1-18&keywords=airbrush
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

Ok migrating from last thread: can someone recommend me a cheap airbrush? I just want to speed up my basecoating, mit nothing flashy. Oh and i wanna stay with my gw paints

Tried a spess marine as a second attempt, bit grubby and need to work on my brush technique but improving.

What are some good inks to get? Washing with paint seems to cake in corners.

Working on my Black Legion marines. How does the lining look so far?

Nuln Oil, one of Agrax Earthshade or Seraphim Sepia, and Reikland Fleshshade if you'll be doing skin. It's been said before, but you're also setting yourself up for problems by painting yellow over black.

I have a black primer which I basecoat over with white, then do a layer of yellow. Should get some white primer though tbqh. Having only black ink to hand doesn't help either.

Which armour colour looks best? Ushabti Bone ( 4 on the left), or Rakarth Flesh ( 4 on the right)

I like the bone ones, they stand out a bit more imo.

Anyone have custom Archons they can post? I know that one user that made his own post pretty often, with the smooth helmet and the skin cloak.

Ushabti looks more like a desert unit, Rakarth looks like a city unit. I do like the Ushabti bases more though. Which do YOU like more?

imgur.com/a/7yb4p

Imgur album for size and shit. Don't have access to photo editing shit.

The cloak on the girl has been shaded, the Tech Priest is just pre shade on the cloak, waiting for paint to dry. I really wish i had a bigger place to hobby, and more paints.

Ushabti is a shit paint to work with. you have to do 2 thin coats, however it looks a lot nicer imho.

Rakarth you can paint straight from pot, never too thin or thick, but it's a dull colour.

The white splotchiness you've smacked on is more apparent on the right, making the ones on the left look much better. Rakarth co-operates a bit better with the green though.

And tone down the eye glow a good bit, it's overpowering the definition of the parts there. A much more gradual blend between lit up area and the armour below would also be a good idea, it stops very suddenly here. OSL, NMM and so on can look good if done right, but if you're not quite there they tend to crash and burn quite badly, and you're not quite there yet I'm afriad.

Working on the cannoness, wondering about blending and doing directional lighting. Does this look ok so far?

Update with highlights

Looted tank progress, not long now edition 1/2

2/2

I love the rough edges to the armor. Do you just hack at it with a knife?

it looks like the heads a really bad cast, eesh!

Finished this in the late hours of last night. I am getting my army table top ready for my first battle on sunday. What do you guys think about the gold/silver metalics on the back? Also should I make all my ribbons the same color or make each unit have its own colors?

pretty much user, add a slight 45° chamfer and nip bits off, all using a knife.

THIN YOUR PAINTS. STRIP THIS SHIT. GO AGAIN.

Dank as fuck

They're plenty thin, I'm using a wet pallette and thinning further.

your primer is too thick. game was rigged from the start. by you. because primer is a paint. and yours is too thick.

Will it get senpai to notice me?

Oi, anyone want some shit from miniwargaming? I have a temporary vault membership

it absolutely is. The lad at GW wouldn't let me prime it myself for health and safety reasons. He then proceeded to ruin it.
It's fine though, I bought 3 and this one is a practice model.

>it absolutely is. The lad at GW wouldn't let me prime it myself for health and safety reasons.
what

gw rattlecans aren't even real primer anyway. That stuff comes off super easy with the right chemicals

I had a can of rustoleum. I told him it was actual primer and he must have treated it like it was GW because it was literally caked on. I did all I could without stripping but it's just a practice model

I am never going back to rattlecan priming after trying airbrush priming. So much easier to get a thin smooth coat!

Reposting the squat I painted up from the last thread. I don't paint display models very often so this was a fun break.

getting one of these for christmas. Might just have to get 2x more for a wing later. How hard are they to put together ?

why are the gatling barrels pointing inwards

£15 practice model. Yeesh.

GW's picture for it. Not mine

dettol motherfucker. don't blame GW for your refusal to strip it down, you scalping shit.

I am guessing you meant this post
and not the post you linked.

I have stripped many miniatures in my time using Super Clean and an ultrasonic cleaner.

Then I bought an airbrush and suddenly priming became the easiest part instead of one of the hardest.

The gattling barrels are mounted at an angle, they slope in from the breach towards the bracket that holds all the barrel ends. No one claimed that 40k models were /k/ approved.

what do you use to prime user? I use a master series air brush and i havent tried priming yet

I *will* strip it down, just working on blending first. And I'm not selling them they're not even limited why would you resell it

Alright University Place user, got your secret santa sent but it's not estimated to arrive until the 28th. I waited so long gathering things for it and time escaped me. I apologize.

"Vallejo Surface Primer" in either gray or black. It comes in a really big 60ml dropper bottle for about 5-10 bucks on amazon, but I think you can also get it in the 25ml droppers if you prefer.

You apply it like any other paint really.

Put some in the airbrush with a teeny bit of flow improver. Make sure you don't have the PSI too high. Use mostly air until you are comfortable.

Doing this you can get complete coverage while still having control, but it will take more time and passes than if you were to pull the trigger all the way back and crank up the PSI.

Looks really nice.

I am struggling on finding a tyranid colour scheme pls send help

Bump

hello guys, my finished wip

Also reposting a request from last thread.

Chaos Gobbo user, please share the recipe/technique for your skin. It looks great and I really want to replicate it.

my personal favourite is 'nids painted to look like fresh flesh - that pinky colour that you see under a wound, that's how I want to paint a 'nid army when I inevitably hate myself enough to start buying WH40k. Pair it with a decent green or blue for the eyes/veins and all that and a good purple or something for the bone plates and you've got some good looking nids.

>finished
>wip

I use this one user. Good for beginners


amazon.com/General-Purpose-Airbrush-Precision-Dual-action/dp/B002P646DE/ref=sr_1_18?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1482006859&sr=1-18&keywords=airbrush

Will cyanoacrylic glue hold a plastic mini on a putty base well?

converting a Ghost"glaive" in a Ghost glaive

You need to thin that yellow a lot more. It looks really cloggy.

As another user said, i started by following Duncan's tutorial but abandoned it halfway through.

The red -> purple -> blue was mostly done via layering and glazing and I'm currently using very diluted glazes to even out the rough patches left by the drybrushing.

In hindsight, I should have just done it the regular way.

You went overboard with the eyes. Rest is awesome though.

Very easy to put together.

Looking good, some more work to be done though. Make sure you clean up the shoulder pad where the gold got on it and slap a glaze on there to smooth those highlights out a bit.

Got some Orks as an early Christmas gift. Here's one. How'd I do? Also, sorry if it's sideways, posting from my phone.

Mind you, it isn't close to being finished yet.

Threw on some more gubbins. Still need to work on the roof and I would like to do a gas pump on one end.

sorry. i am asembling the KT tau. i am furious that the most cheese army is garbage to build. nothing FUCKING LOCKS TOGETHER AND THE HOLES ARE SHALLOW! FUCK

...

i dont even want them. it is jist that the unassembled sprues were stoping me from painting. they are just sitting in my bits box, unpainted.

My Nurgel. Working on getting them up to snuff

Tanks.

Troops

Others

resize those images. Theres no need for over 3mb per picture

Hey, I have a Ta'unar with the basically five multi-meltas strapped together arms, and figured that therefore partially melting a small tank or walker to put on the base (thinking maybe a Killa kan or deff dread?) to have something a bit more exciting than plain gravel.

So, two questions: Does Citadel plastic melt? I know different plastics react differently to heat.

And secondly, how do I go about it if it's possible? My mother has a hot air gun thing for her crafts work, would borrowing that do it?

Thanks, forgot to mention that the right shoulder pad will be green, so I haven't cleaned it up yet. Also what do you suggest I glaze? The armor, with black?

T6 fearless bikes w FnP. Really mean.

DRILL THAT BARREL

display base for my Tau commander

/Wip/ i come to you begging looking the back engines for a tau xv8 crisis suit (the old ones). In return I offer any Tau / IG / Admech bits i can offer you and have.

Hopefully somebody can help

>start putting together my Skitarii to at least get them into a playable state for soon after Christmas
>plan to paint them later
>finish first one
>realize there's no way in hell to no properly paint the chest with the weapon attached already

Fuck.

What did you buy?

A regular Skitarii troop box and am getting the Start Collecting box for Christmas.

Wanted to play them with my brother while he's over for the holidays so I've kind of rushed things a bit too much, I guess.

I actually really like that about Tau models. Conversions are easy as shit that way, and it makes for some good interchanges between units (Pathfinders dont wear shoulderpads, so if you put extra carbine arms from Fire Warriors, you wont have a huge, locking in place bump to smooth over.)

But you said you arent using them, and i agree, one of the most annoying things was learning to glue those damn arms on. And with the old FW model

Im not sure, but youd probably have to decide if you want a melted enemy, or just a hole seared through. Because you may be able to use an acid for the second one.

Melted, it's been slagged by a scout Titan scale Melta weapon.

>buy a box of swooping hawks
>riddled in air bubbles
>insanely stupidly placed little supports everywhere in hard-to-reach areas like between the hand, the gun and the chest all over
>feels cheap and brittle to handle

What the hell, I thought they fixed finecrap?

Might be an old batch. Even with the perfect ones, you won't avoid

>>insanely stupidly placed little supports everywhere in hard-to-reach areas like between the hand, the gun and the chest all over

though, unless the sculpt was originally mastered in resin/finecast. The metal to finecast kits all have these dumb vent spots.

>So, two questions: Does Citadel plastic melt?

Yes. Power dremels with any sort of non-retardedly slow RPM will melt Citadel plastic. It's why you can't drill barrels except with extremely slow power drills.

>My mother has a hot air gun thing for her crafts work, would borrowing that do it?

Lol.

The bullet trajectories actually converge them pass each other and bloom outwards so the gun shoots like an extremely low pressure garden hose. Also the bullets sometimes ricochet off each other to increase the chances of getting lucky extreme angle shots. Learn to gun, gue'la.

Well fuck me.

Guns are warped to hell as well, guess I'm not buying more until they go back to plastic.

The skin tone looks nice from as far as I can see.

That's what scares me about ordering Vespid strains from gw. They say resin, and all mine are metal

Oh god i started painting my boyz' teeth and i have no idea what I'm doing now send help.

I do mine like bone.
>zandari base
>ushabti layer
>wash agrax
>wash caroburg crimson
>reapply ushabti
>screaming skull highlight

Are you the Gorkamorka user who always posts amazing shit and then never paints it? Seriously man if you paint as well as you convert i'm going to die and i'm not even an Ork fan

My Tamiya bags came today, what do you think Veeky Forums? To much? To little? This is a little under half of what came.

I think your tracks are on the wrong way round

Same guy.

The problem is when i tried to paint the teeth on the first two, the paint just went all into the mouth which didnt look all that good. I tried to get it out with a paper towel but some white is still there.

This is a boy without the teeth attempted.

And here is one with teeth painted on.
Is this fixable?

as soon as that happens I take a dry brush and soak all that shit up. You can just wash over it to darken it. No biggy.

This loaded slowly for me. When I just saw the top row of the helmets it looked awesome. The moments I saw the eyeglow it looked trash.

I'm pretty sure they're right, Liberator tracks from blood and skulls industry

Yeah just paint over that again with a darker colour.

yes, don't make a wash outta layer paint next time.