Ok migrating from last thread: can someone recommend me a cheap airbrush? I just want to speed up my basecoating, mit nothing flashy. Oh and i wanna stay with my gw paints
Anthony James
Tried a spess marine as a second attempt, bit grubby and need to work on my brush technique but improving.
What are some good inks to get? Washing with paint seems to cake in corners.
Aiden Gutierrez
Working on my Black Legion marines. How does the lining look so far?
Lucas Bennett
Nuln Oil, one of Agrax Earthshade or Seraphim Sepia, and Reikland Fleshshade if you'll be doing skin. It's been said before, but you're also setting yourself up for problems by painting yellow over black.
Juan Campbell
I have a black primer which I basecoat over with white, then do a layer of yellow. Should get some white primer though tbqh. Having only black ink to hand doesn't help either.
Jason Walker
Which armour colour looks best? Ushabti Bone ( 4 on the left), or Rakarth Flesh ( 4 on the right)
Tyler Robinson
I like the bone ones, they stand out a bit more imo.
David Gonzalez
Anyone have custom Archons they can post? I know that one user that made his own post pretty often, with the smooth helmet and the skin cloak.
Easton Cox
Ushabti looks more like a desert unit, Rakarth looks like a city unit. I do like the Ushabti bases more though. Which do YOU like more?
Imgur album for size and shit. Don't have access to photo editing shit.
The cloak on the girl has been shaded, the Tech Priest is just pre shade on the cloak, waiting for paint to dry. I really wish i had a bigger place to hobby, and more paints.
Levi Reyes
Ushabti is a shit paint to work with. you have to do 2 thin coats, however it looks a lot nicer imho.
Rakarth you can paint straight from pot, never too thin or thick, but it's a dull colour.
Austin Roberts
The white splotchiness you've smacked on is more apparent on the right, making the ones on the left look much better. Rakarth co-operates a bit better with the green though.
And tone down the eye glow a good bit, it's overpowering the definition of the parts there. A much more gradual blend between lit up area and the armour below would also be a good idea, it stops very suddenly here. OSL, NMM and so on can look good if done right, but if you're not quite there they tend to crash and burn quite badly, and you're not quite there yet I'm afriad.
Ayden Barnes
Working on the cannoness, wondering about blending and doing directional lighting. Does this look ok so far?
Ryder Gomez
Update with highlights
Alexander Murphy
Looted tank progress, not long now edition 1/2
Adam Cox
2/2
Nathaniel Martin
I love the rough edges to the armor. Do you just hack at it with a knife?
Xavier Taylor
it looks like the heads a really bad cast, eesh!
Aiden Rogers
Finished this in the late hours of last night. I am getting my army table top ready for my first battle on sunday. What do you guys think about the gold/silver metalics on the back? Also should I make all my ribbons the same color or make each unit have its own colors?
Brayden Cox
pretty much user, add a slight 45° chamfer and nip bits off, all using a knife.
Robert Hughes
THIN YOUR PAINTS. STRIP THIS SHIT. GO AGAIN.
Parker Campbell
Dank as fuck
Matthew Perry
They're plenty thin, I'm using a wet pallette and thinning further.
Kevin Perez
your primer is too thick. game was rigged from the start. by you. because primer is a paint. and yours is too thick.
Carson Nelson
Will it get senpai to notice me?
Grayson Cooper
Oi, anyone want some shit from miniwargaming? I have a temporary vault membership
Owen Gonzalez
it absolutely is. The lad at GW wouldn't let me prime it myself for health and safety reasons. He then proceeded to ruin it. It's fine though, I bought 3 and this one is a practice model.
Parker Bennett
>it absolutely is. The lad at GW wouldn't let me prime it myself for health and safety reasons. what
gw rattlecans aren't even real primer anyway. That stuff comes off super easy with the right chemicals
William Taylor
I had a can of rustoleum. I told him it was actual primer and he must have treated it like it was GW because it was literally caked on. I did all I could without stripping but it's just a practice model
Nathaniel White
I am never going back to rattlecan priming after trying airbrush priming. So much easier to get a thin smooth coat!
Parker Rivera
Reposting the squat I painted up from the last thread. I don't paint display models very often so this was a fun break.
Sebastian Ortiz
getting one of these for christmas. Might just have to get 2x more for a wing later. How hard are they to put together ?
Jeremiah Taylor
why are the gatling barrels pointing inwards
Matthew Russell
£15 practice model. Yeesh.
Andrew Rodriguez
GW's picture for it. Not mine
Ryan Russell
dettol motherfucker. don't blame GW for your refusal to strip it down, you scalping shit.
Adrian Cook
I am guessing you meant this post and not the post you linked.
I have stripped many miniatures in my time using Super Clean and an ultrasonic cleaner.
Then I bought an airbrush and suddenly priming became the easiest part instead of one of the hardest.
Carter Robinson
The gattling barrels are mounted at an angle, they slope in from the breach towards the bracket that holds all the barrel ends. No one claimed that 40k models were /k/ approved.
Blake Long
what do you use to prime user? I use a master series air brush and i havent tried priming yet
Jaxon Powell
I *will* strip it down, just working on blending first. And I'm not selling them they're not even limited why would you resell it
Cameron Rogers
Alright University Place user, got your secret santa sent but it's not estimated to arrive until the 28th. I waited so long gathering things for it and time escaped me. I apologize.
Parker Phillips
"Vallejo Surface Primer" in either gray or black. It comes in a really big 60ml dropper bottle for about 5-10 bucks on amazon, but I think you can also get it in the 25ml droppers if you prefer.
You apply it like any other paint really.
Put some in the airbrush with a teeny bit of flow improver. Make sure you don't have the PSI too high. Use mostly air until you are comfortable.
Doing this you can get complete coverage while still having control, but it will take more time and passes than if you were to pull the trigger all the way back and crank up the PSI.
Caleb Hughes
Looks really nice.
Bentley Evans
I am struggling on finding a tyranid colour scheme pls send help
Austin Flores
Bump
Easton Lewis
hello guys, my finished wip
Brandon Hernandez
Also reposting a request from last thread.
Chaos Gobbo user, please share the recipe/technique for your skin. It looks great and I really want to replicate it.
Dylan Ward
my personal favourite is 'nids painted to look like fresh flesh - that pinky colour that you see under a wound, that's how I want to paint a 'nid army when I inevitably hate myself enough to start buying WH40k. Pair it with a decent green or blue for the eyes/veins and all that and a good purple or something for the bone plates and you've got some good looking nids.
Will cyanoacrylic glue hold a plastic mini on a putty base well?
James Russell
converting a Ghost"glaive" in a Ghost glaive
Elijah Brooks
You need to thin that yellow a lot more. It looks really cloggy.
Jackson Myers
As another user said, i started by following Duncan's tutorial but abandoned it halfway through.
The red -> purple -> blue was mostly done via layering and glazing and I'm currently using very diluted glazes to even out the rough patches left by the drybrushing.
In hindsight, I should have just done it the regular way.
Christopher Phillips
You went overboard with the eyes. Rest is awesome though.
Jason Hernandez
Very easy to put together.
Colton Clark
Looking good, some more work to be done though. Make sure you clean up the shoulder pad where the gold got on it and slap a glaze on there to smooth those highlights out a bit.
Jaxson Lewis
Got some Orks as an early Christmas gift. Here's one. How'd I do? Also, sorry if it's sideways, posting from my phone.
Benjamin Martinez
Mind you, it isn't close to being finished yet.
Lincoln Russell
Threw on some more gubbins. Still need to work on the roof and I would like to do a gas pump on one end.
Josiah Miller
sorry. i am asembling the KT tau. i am furious that the most cheese army is garbage to build. nothing FUCKING LOCKS TOGETHER AND THE HOLES ARE SHALLOW! FUCK
Easton Carter
...
Lincoln Moore
i dont even want them. it is jist that the unassembled sprues were stoping me from painting. they are just sitting in my bits box, unpainted.
Levi Bailey
My Nurgel. Working on getting them up to snuff
Sebastian Wright
Tanks.
Isaac Ward
Troops
Justin Butler
Others
Connor Hernandez
resize those images. Theres no need for over 3mb per picture
Noah Sullivan
Hey, I have a Ta'unar with the basically five multi-meltas strapped together arms, and figured that therefore partially melting a small tank or walker to put on the base (thinking maybe a Killa kan or deff dread?) to have something a bit more exciting than plain gravel.
So, two questions: Does Citadel plastic melt? I know different plastics react differently to heat.
And secondly, how do I go about it if it's possible? My mother has a hot air gun thing for her crafts work, would borrowing that do it?
Hunter Morris
Thanks, forgot to mention that the right shoulder pad will be green, so I haven't cleaned it up yet. Also what do you suggest I glaze? The armor, with black?
William Young
T6 fearless bikes w FnP. Really mean.
Grayson Allen
DRILL THAT BARREL
Nolan Stewart
display base for my Tau commander
Landon Clark
/Wip/ i come to you begging looking the back engines for a tau xv8 crisis suit (the old ones). In return I offer any Tau / IG / Admech bits i can offer you and have.
Hopefully somebody can help
Joseph Price
>start putting together my Skitarii to at least get them into a playable state for soon after Christmas >plan to paint them later >finish first one >realize there's no way in hell to no properly paint the chest with the weapon attached already
Fuck.
Luis Stewart
What did you buy?
Sebastian Wilson
A regular Skitarii troop box and am getting the Start Collecting box for Christmas.
Wanted to play them with my brother while he's over for the holidays so I've kind of rushed things a bit too much, I guess.
Jonathan Hill
I actually really like that about Tau models. Conversions are easy as shit that way, and it makes for some good interchanges between units (Pathfinders dont wear shoulderpads, so if you put extra carbine arms from Fire Warriors, you wont have a huge, locking in place bump to smooth over.)
But you said you arent using them, and i agree, one of the most annoying things was learning to glue those damn arms on. And with the old FW model
Daniel Ross
Im not sure, but youd probably have to decide if you want a melted enemy, or just a hole seared through. Because you may be able to use an acid for the second one.
Isaac Rivera
Melted, it's been slagged by a scout Titan scale Melta weapon.
Isaac Stewart
>buy a box of swooping hawks >riddled in air bubbles >insanely stupidly placed little supports everywhere in hard-to-reach areas like between the hand, the gun and the chest all over >feels cheap and brittle to handle
What the hell, I thought they fixed finecrap?
Jayden Nelson
Might be an old batch. Even with the perfect ones, you won't avoid
>>insanely stupidly placed little supports everywhere in hard-to-reach areas like between the hand, the gun and the chest all over
though, unless the sculpt was originally mastered in resin/finecast. The metal to finecast kits all have these dumb vent spots.
Asher Martinez
>So, two questions: Does Citadel plastic melt?
Yes. Power dremels with any sort of non-retardedly slow RPM will melt Citadel plastic. It's why you can't drill barrels except with extremely slow power drills.
>My mother has a hot air gun thing for her crafts work, would borrowing that do it?
Lol.
Nicholas Sanders
The bullet trajectories actually converge them pass each other and bloom outwards so the gun shoots like an extremely low pressure garden hose. Also the bullets sometimes ricochet off each other to increase the chances of getting lucky extreme angle shots. Learn to gun, gue'la.
Carson Evans
Well fuck me.
Guns are warped to hell as well, guess I'm not buying more until they go back to plastic.
Xavier Gonzalez
The skin tone looks nice from as far as I can see.
Ethan Roberts
That's what scares me about ordering Vespid strains from gw. They say resin, and all mine are metal
Wyatt Russell
Oh god i started painting my boyz' teeth and i have no idea what I'm doing now send help.
Connor Rodriguez
I do mine like bone. >zandari base >ushabti layer >wash agrax >wash caroburg crimson >reapply ushabti >screaming skull highlight
Cooper Roberts
Are you the Gorkamorka user who always posts amazing shit and then never paints it? Seriously man if you paint as well as you convert i'm going to die and i'm not even an Ork fan
Robert Howard
My Tamiya bags came today, what do you think Veeky Forums? To much? To little? This is a little under half of what came.
Jacob Garcia
I think your tracks are on the wrong way round
Joshua Wright
Same guy.
The problem is when i tried to paint the teeth on the first two, the paint just went all into the mouth which didnt look all that good. I tried to get it out with a paper towel but some white is still there.
This is a boy without the teeth attempted.
Thomas Martin
And here is one with teeth painted on. Is this fixable?
Nathan Peterson
as soon as that happens I take a dry brush and soak all that shit up. You can just wash over it to darken it. No biggy.
Colton Williams
This loaded slowly for me. When I just saw the top row of the helmets it looked awesome. The moments I saw the eyeglow it looked trash.
Adrian Butler
I'm pretty sure they're right, Liberator tracks from blood and skulls industry
Bentley Diaz
Yeah just paint over that again with a darker colour.
Grayson Nguyen
yes, don't make a wash outta layer paint next time.