WIP: Work in Progress Thread

Sounds like you need to go to a different post office instead. My local post office 5 minutes away has never given me bullshit, but the next nearest one 10 minutes away literally shoos away customers.

brown leather, green cloth, brass accents

That's the most goddamn stupidest thing I ever heard.

>HEY! Dubs determines what color-scheme I use on this lady.

100% ultramarine blue with red eyes
check'em

well, that's awkward

Oh, didn't see the 44s.

Too bad I didn't list a color scheme, waste of some good dubs.

The paint at the tip of my brush is drying before I can even bring it to the model I'm painting. How do I combat dry air during winter?

Second question: I have this model (pic related) to use as Mortarion. The only thing I'm not fond of is the blade/head of the scythe. Any good third party replacement bits you guys can think of?

Gray outfit, gray weapons, gray skin

We have a winner! Gray-scale it is.

winrar

Is this a 28mm scale mini? Who sells that?

Paint it like a death cult assassin on GW shop page

It isnt just here, it is because of the Priority Mail, and regular postage, i was told. So if you want to recycle, ha ha, ass out of luck. Instead of actually checking which boxes are what by barcode, they just say 'no it cant look like those, cuz we toss those color ones in one pile and the rest in another'

I hate this place, i hate this place so goddamn much.

You can be forgiven, earthy tones with dark red highlights

>The paint at the tip of my brush is drying before I can even bring it to the model I'm painting. How do I combat dry air during winter?

Acrylic retarder

anvil does scythes.

Im your southern neighbor, we got the same shit. The permanent smoke cloud from Tennessee burning finally clear out for you too?

No, im nearer to the coast, so we didnt really get any. Still just heroin and dead people up here.

On a lighter note, ive gotten a decent amount done the past couple days.

It's from Reaper's Warlord Range.

reapermini.com/Miniatures/Nefsokar/latest/14129

And, yeah, it's pretty much 28mm scale.

Anybody got some interesting looking GS Cultists?

get a humidifier if your house is THAT dry, it's not just bad for your paints but it's bad for your nasal cavity and lungs.

We had it in the charleston area. I thought it was just like fog off the bay because I'm new to this area and we don't have cable but no ducking states we're on fire.

thought I was looking at my local subway line for a second

>GS Cultists?
This kind of threw me.
GS usually means Green Stuff, while GSC commonly refers to Gene Stealer Cults.

What do you mean by interesting looking though? Conversions or painting schemes?

Trust me, North Carolina is one of the worse states in the union.

Hail mein WIP negros.
What glue should I use to hold my models to cork board bases? Plastic isn't really working

i found some plastic railings from a modelrailroad building that where thin enough to make rivets for my land raider

i like the result, it's my first time doint rivets this small but it wasn't nearly as fidly as i was afraid it would be

Mostly looking for interesting cult paint schemes or unique conversions. Haven't seen too much since the cult release.

Plastic glue only works when joining plastic to plastic. You should be using super glue.

the other side is ready for glue and putty

>gorgeous models
>tfw 25mm scale

wow, he already painted them too! user delivers!

25mm is what non-heroic 28mm basically refers to.
28mm is a term later coined because GW stuff didn't fit to anything else.

If you put reaper and GW stuff next to each other it mostly looks fine.
Some of the reaper minis lean more towards true scale than heroic, but GW is also absolutely inconsistent on that front.
If you buy IG models from FW those will be truescale and IG models from GW are heroic. Strictly speaking you can't even mix all GW ranges.

i posted this here before, it's my cult i've been working on it for some years now, just adding a model or two when i want to paint something different

That it is.

Chapterhouse isn't coming back, is it? I only found out about it recently and desperately need its 30k vehicle kits.

>and desperately need its 30k vehicle kits.
lucky for you FW and GW sell HH stuff now

Those all have a ton of personality user, I fucking love that car.

tfw early lotr is true scale but the later releases got more heroic proportions which makes the early models look stupid as fuck next to the newer releases

This stuff. Get it at an art store.

liquitex.com/slowdriblendingmedium/

This is my first ever model I finished base painting a few days ago. Personally I think I fucked up picking the armor plate coloring with gray and the gluing.

that seems like a pretty hard first choice, but Ive certainly seen worse. Keep watching Saint Duncan and thinnin them paints.

Some of the hardest minis to paint well as your first go. Not a bad attempt.

Nice, user. Especially for your first. Keep up the good work, thin your paints, and all that jazz!

You should try your hand at basing!
No matter the paint job I think a wee bit of effort on the base goes a million miles.
But good work for your first dudes!

Finally got my Acolytes painted to a point that I'm satisfied with them. Did a wash of Nulin Oil on their base, added some Biel-tan green to the bone daggers to help them stand out more, and then did liberal layers of Blood for the Blood God on their steel daggers.

Tomorrow, I embark on my hardest project yet: Painting the Neophytes, and thus, regular humans faces with regular human eyeballs.

>regular humen eye balls
[uncanny valley intensify]

What human has completely neon green eyes

I was think more along the line of having pupils and irises.

>ooga booga cults

Those are the Acolytes. They're still early in the Tyranid generations, so their eyes get to be fucked up.

The Neophyes, however, are supposed to look human... so, normal eyes which, given that I've only ever painted Tyranids up to this point, is going to be hard.

The scheme is only questionable because of the faction. Trust me dog, those crunchberry colors would look fly as fuck on some Nids. Not a bad attempt for your first, buddy.

What are good basing colors for 40k minis? I play Guard and I'm not sure what to go with. My clothes are Russ Grey and the armor is Mechanicus Grey.

Why arent you anons converting your renegades?

I'd say something tan to add contrast to your scheme

Thank you.

If you can't decide then Steel Legion Drab highlighted with some Bone/Tan/Khaki is the safest. It's extremely neutral and works with almost everything.

Often times you can get a more interesting result if you choose a base color to contrast your mini, but that's certainly not the only way to do it. Here's some links for ideas.

fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2012/10/a-look-at-some-basing-color-concepts.html
row40k.blogspot.com/2012/11/basing-your-miniatures-basics.html

Bought a set of old Skeleton Warriors at a local shop for paint practice, think he came out alright asides from the eye.

Right side looks a lot better personally

Because i already did, and now im painting them.

Are you using normal gw wash? looks like it. There's a lot of "coffee staining" but that's not bad because it's an old skeleton. Personally, if I were you with that mini, I'd give all the bones one last drybrush of off-white to bring back up the color and especially to draw attention to the skull

Yeah. When painting eyes, less is more. You don't want to color the whole socket.

Guevesa scum

How do Secret Weapon's washes compare to GW and Vallejo's? I recently got a Army Painter dark tone ink, but it is almost a glaze rather than something that really goes in the recesses like I want.

So I've decided that for Christmas I'm going to try and surprise my brother by finishing his Chaos Daemons army for him. I was coaching him through the process a few years ago but due to work and general frustration over trying to paint the models he kind of gave up on it for the last year or so.

Normally I would be feeling pretty grim about doing this many models in a short span of time, but it's just a dip paint job for the most part. He's also got a Skulltaker on a Juggernaut that I feel deserves a bit more attention, so I'll do that one the old fashioned way, like I did for his Daemon Prince a while back. He also has some flesh hounds that haven't been assembled yet.

I dipped my Space Hulk set and I was overall satisfied with the results. I got most of that project done in a marathon paint session, at least for the Gene Stealers. Dip is not as nice as I'd want for my personal WH army, but in my case I don't mind touching up the paint on one of my minis if for some reason it gets scuffed. My brother mostly wanted something that would be durable and would look passable without having to slave over, and a dip job is fine for that. Although even that much proved to be more hassle than my brother had time for, considering he really doesn't enjoy painting and I do. He's more interested in actually playing the game while I'm more into the model making aspect.

Out of curiosity, do those conversion trays measure out to the correct footprint for the daemons on the left? I like the set up so far.

I personally think that dips are nice, but for bright colors you may want to wash things the good old fashioned way. The Nurgle daemons shouldn't care of course.

>Out of curiosity, do those conversion trays measure out to the correct footprint for the daemons on the left? I like the set up so far.
The ones he has right now don't. I was going to give him some conversion trays that are the correct footprint but I currently only have one and they're on backorder at Noble Knight (which is the only place I know that has them).

I get what you mean about the colors although my Blood Angels for Space Hulk turned out pretty good. The key is that I used a power drill to shake off the excess dip so it goes on nice and thin. Keeping the dip from globbing up before it dries is crucial to making dip look good, and for things like eyes I use a little compressed air to make sure it doesn't pool around them too much.

So this is the first mini I've tried painting. I tried to absorb as much as I could from Saint Dunc and from what I see on here, but I just can't quite seem to ever get my paint to look as smooth as I'd like it to, despite making sure to usually thin my paints.

Anybody got some criticism or tips to help me git gud at painting? I'd love to know how people manage to get such nice, smooth, consistent coats, or if my hand is gonna ever stop shaking around detail work with enough practice.

I'm conflicted fellow anons, I need advice
>be me, buy warhound titan nearly a month ago
>it's buggered when it arrives, much of the fine detail is missing, get in contact with forgeworld, they arrange to send me a full replacement after the guy contacting me has checked it himself
>someone bungles it, they send it out without the dude checking it, he's surprised - because I get it delivered to my local GW he gets one of the staff to check it - who finds it has no problems - and says if its no good he'll send another one
>collect it yesterday, get it home, check over it in myself, sad to find its still got plenty of issues - there's slightly less overall problems but the ones it does have are more severe, all of the large pieces have major mold slips, fine detail is missing, bits are damaged, holes in lots of the thin fine detail

Should I contact them again? It feels like I'd be taking the piss if they send another one out, especially after the store dude didnt find a problem (though the rest of my friends say send it back.)

Just finished painting up 18 of these guys, took a quick shoddy picture. Been meaning to paint them for like two years now.

Thoughts on the scheme? Played with those gem paints to do the eye lens and the shoulder cams.

pics?
if its still messed up send it back again, you paid for a quality product and you deserve it

If you're looking for rivets a cheap and easy way is to get a water purifier filter and crack it open into a small tub, you'll get a lifetimes supply of various size balls good for rivets of all sorts. Would cost you like £8 total including the tub.
>you can also get some really thin styrene tubing that'll fit inside a mechanical pencil ( believe it's 035" /0.88mm) dab a spot of glue where you want it and click a piece out.

I'm cropping and sorting them now for upload, I've got a lot of them

You're not off to a bad start although it definitely looks like you should have thinned your paints more. The consistency of milk is what you want it to have on your pallet (though not necessarily in the pot). There will be some applications where thicker paint is needed, but for general painting you want to keep it thin and work in layers.

And of course, practice practice practice. Your first try isn't going to be a masterpiece but if you keep trying you will get better. For a first try that is a good effort, and I can tell you've been studying techniques rather than going in blind.

Very cool.

Never played the series but not the first time I've seen them compared to Helghast

Alright, thanks user! I'll take all that on board and just keep on practicing.

I had the pleasure of getting two Knights at 40% off MSRP, and I haven't touched them yet because I have never magnetized before.

What size magnets do I use for a Knight, 1/4?

Where the hell do I actually magnetize? I doubt there's enough bits to make a whole arm for each weapon.

Uploading them to imgur, here's two of the mold slips. Similar problem on all of the head, some of the armor plates and the void shield chunky bits

Finished my Dragon King's base for KDM.

You're right, you only get two shoulders. If you want to magnetise then you need to do it at the elbow.

Makes sense. Is there a clear joint, or will I need to do some surgery?

Honestly, I don't think it's that bad. It's basically big moldlines at this point. I can understand not wanting parts with holes in them but moldlines and warped parts that you need to fix are normal on resin models.

time for very fine sandpaper and dustmask on face

The lava effect looks pretty awesome, mate. I think some OSL on the sides of some of the rocks would really compliment the scene.

What about lack of detail such as this? Half the pistons are like it, some worse, some better, is it something I can fix myself?

>i've been told the skullcogs are not meant to look like that at all

Between the two kits you have from them, can you produce at least one high detailed Warhound?

If note, then after dropping a few hundred quid; the price of a weekend away, a high end GPU or 6 weeks of food bills, I would ask for a replacement again.

Mold slips would be fine if they weren't worse than the previous one they sent you.

Insist on returning this one, even if it's only to your local GW store (so they can use it) so they know you're not trying to con them into getting more free stuff.

Explain you have seen the model with these particular details presented crisply and ask if they need to investigate some of their molds being used beyond recommended amount of casts before switching to a fresh one?

It comes across as you want them to do a good job, not to rinse them.

On the other hand, if you build both, you have 2 warhounds for the price of 1!
Regardless that there are some shitty details that will take a lot of sanding and Greenstuff work to resolve.

Don't forget to wash off the release agent if you do commit to beginning work.

>Between the two kits you have from them, can you produce at least one high detailed Warhound?

Sadly no, they both have shared problem areas, some of which are identical to each other. I'm about just over half way to having a detailed one. They told me I could use the first busted one as a wreck marker and I've just written them with the pictures and what you suggested about possible bad moulds and if I should return it directly to them or to the store to make some terrain out of.

The reason I'm having so much trouble deciding what the problems are is that im not experienced with FW resin, so i don't know if this is common or not - judging from the response of the customer support dude it isn't. I've even had some chinese stuff before that isnt anywhere near as bad as this.

I'll be honest, and I don't complain much, but if I paid literally hundreds of dollars for a single high-quality product I would make damn sure I'm getting my money's worth. Like the other user said, you can even offer to give back the poorly cast versions so they don't think you're try to fleece them.

>Bikestealer Cult