WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

Don't remember if I already posted him here but here's my take on Exodus. The conversion still needs a bit of work but I'm really proud of the head.

The outside is black, but I'm starting to get the feel for a nice regal looking green similar to the colour the Sons of Horus use.

Might wanna scale the gun down abit but it's looking pretty cool

I did see it and I only wish I could have given you more and also the international shipping wasn't so expensive so I could have given more but at least I got my two cents in

progress on my nurgle throne. first drybrush done. sorry for bad photo.

/wip/, I uh...
I did a thing...

I like where you were going, the twin linked autocannons just look a little spindly though, they need some plating round the shoulders I think.
Also the underslung missile pods are sort of cool, but it feels like they'd work better on top instead.

How thin do my paints have to be to work on resin?

Resin needs a bit of a bath before primer will stick to it properly, that's really all the prep it needs.

Almost done with the boys

VOTE FOOL! BEFORE THOSE HERETIC WIN!

strawpoll.me/11939610

wow, more pics?

Nice, where you get those sitting down korpsmen? Want them for my chimera/leman russ. Reposting my finished death rider

Character for what?

Anyone have any pics of gue'vesa they have made? looking for some inspiration.

I like that a lot, keep up the good work.

Some Space Wolf git had given poor Big Bitey some cyborg bitz. Gave him a go-over and replaced them with all-natural green stuff.

...

I got some CSM Possessed sprues in an eBay lot. any advice on making them not look terrible?

Anyone else get their Daemonettes?

Aye, picked mine up from the post office this morning.
Trying to check them over whilst I'm at work without colleagues asking to have a look.
>Why have they got 6 boobs user?

What is this, a counts as Deredeo?

What's a good rate to charge for painting figurines with an average paint job for a store display game? Do I count backwards from an hourly rate, or charge a flat fee per model?

How average are we talking here

>What's a good rate to charge for painting figurines with an average paint job for a store display game?
What is your time worth?
>Do I count backwards from an hourly rate, or charge a flat fee per model?
Do you work fast or slow?
What size of model are we talking here?

Obviously if you make a living this way you shouldn't undercharge.
Don't be afraid to ask for what your work is worth.

If you are kinda doing this as a favor to somebody else you should probably price it slightly differently than you would do for 'just business'.

>suck at painting
>models graduated from "not actually dipped" to "drybrush everything"
>gaps, mold lines, etc.
>finally decide to throw down on a new set of plastic models
>pay someone to paint them for me
>they look exactly how I wanted to in my mind

To be honest, I probably spent as much money on the commission as I would on acquiring the tools, paints, and supplies necessary, coupled with this guy doing it in a few days, 8 hours a day, rather than my agonizing over it forever.

Point is, props to those of you who can paint, and those of you who are good enough to charge. I wish I was half as good and had the time and money to burn practicing

how did u make the head?

Basic brush/wash/highlight with thin layers and a bit better than the average /WIP/ job. Good enough that people who have never painted minis think i'm incredible.
It's a one off for a store owner who was referred to me by a friend, so i'm not in the mood for discounts. I'm doing this in between other freelance work, but I also want to get something for my time.

The usual rate I read online is something like 8-10 USD per basic model, with more for commanders, but i'm not a professional commision taker. Was hoping to find personal experiences from you guys because i'm sure at least one of you has done this before.

>Work out how much you want to be paid per hour
>Work out how long it will take you to complete the commission
>Work out how much you want to charge for wear and tear on brushes, use of paint, etc
>Add up all the numbers

You now have the quote you can give to the guy for how much you want to be paid.

Here's my thought; sculpt sort of a Kano-style face plate over one of his eyes, drill through that and run a cable directly into the back of his scope.

what is the helmet spine from? looks familiar

Forgeworld Templars Dread.

So I have this unit of rag tag dwarves and the banner is this one. But I feel that something is missing. Any ideas?

The baseing?

Damned turn it did

Looks like its from the skitarii vanguard set.

Testing a scheme for my DE
It feels lacking for some reason

The yellow looks a bit weird and out of place, and neither the green or yellow you've chosen go very well with the silver. A brighter green and yellow might look alright, although I'd suggest dropping the yellow and just using a brighter green for the knee/shoulder pads and weapon thingy. Are you going to leave the little crotch banner black or do you have something in mind for it?

It is indeed from the Skitarii vanguard box.

I meant in the banner design

Maybe change the Yellow into an Orange?
I was initally going to go all Metal with Green eyes but i thought it would be too dull altogether

I'm probably planning to mainly use dark browns and dark reds for any flesh clothing

It uses one of the FW Alpha legions heads as a base, the headrest and antenna were cut from spare Skitarii heads and the optics were cut from a Plastic MK IV head and a head from the old Devastator box.

Here's a picture without primer to give you a better idea of its construction.

cut those nails, lad.

Using paint.net this is what i got

actually, you can probably still help me out a lot since I was thinking about using the IM to mold myself some mareens.
What kind of stuff could I use to actually fill the mold and make a new mini? I was thinking about melting down some polystyrene and pressure-injecting it, but I'm not sure how well that would actually work.

Has anyone made Les' Magic Wash before? How do I tone down the shininess?

I know I should but it's the holidays and I'm lazy.

looks sweet

Painted my first ever mini today, what do you guys think?

You did well. Next step is to get some shade in those flat areas. Easiest way is washes

Not bad for your first mini, not bad at all. Some washes on the skin, metal and cloth and then a little highlighting and that would be decent tabletop standard.

Not yet. In the mail, though.

it's really clean for a first time! Good job on the eyes, teeth and clothes

What you want now are shades, take atleast Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade

But that's a really good fist mini

choo choo

Some Mantic Games Striders in working on as part of my Nurgle renegade guardsmen - I was originally going to go for a more traditional green colour scheme but I decided to have a go at a dirty white last minute. Had fun doing the freehand symbols on these. Bases still need finishing, and there's a few bits that need touching up, but I'm pretty pleased with how they've come out.

>renegade guardsmen
So this counts as Ogryn?

I like the model. Good choice.

I'll probably be using them as armoured sentinels - they're about the same size.

And thanks, I thought they worked quite well as repurposed industrial walkers

...

>choo choo

Can he chugga-chugga?

I can understand the Imperial Guard using trains, but is there much point for Space Marines? They can just drop pod anywhere they need to be or get a Thunderbird to drop them off.

Not him but instant mold/oyumaru warps with heat, so any form of heated casting process (even exothermic reactions) will cause a faulty cast. I always use milliput or greenstuff casting with them. It's ideal for press moulds and I've made armour panels, Tau armour plates and small models like necron scarabs with them but anything more than that has had iffy results at best.

That I did manage to cast a good pair of Stealthsuit legs with a two-part oyumaru mold. Good luck.

Yes, no?

No.

Not really good value.

I dunno, can you repeat the question?

Well, what exactly would be good value for a beginner who wants to try it out and not having much dosh?

Maybe

Guys, I bought myself a metal Shrike on ebay, but his jump pack DOESN'T FIT RIGHT

What do I do?

It's good value for testing a paint scheme and getting used to models if you've never dealt with them before.

Back in the RT days, the IG could take rhinos too so I guess it's not just a SM thing if you're making trains out of them.

Aw yeah. Spoopy. Just need to paint the base and the rim now. Looks a lot less green irl for some reason.

Youre not the boss of me

Grab one of these for ~$15 on Amazon. It comes molded in blue plastic though so you're only really practicing details however.

>[referring to ]
>Not really good value.

I think MSRP on this set is $33. I can't find it for substantially less than this, even though it only comes with three marines, one brush, and tiny post of paints.

I will say this: those three marines in there are absolutely stunning. I've seen them in person, and they strike me as just about the closest thing to "truescale" marines that Citadel has ever produced. I'd love to get my hands on them, but considering they're just squadboyz, not at $10 each.

>Well, what exactly would be good value for a beginner who wants to try it out and not having much dosh?

You have ~$33 to spend on this? Calling it a good value is indeed a stretch. You might be able to get away with buying some halfway-decent brushes, a can of rattlecan spray primer, a few bottles of good paint (Citadel, Vallejo, P3, etc.) and some really cheap models (starter box plastics can be had for a song on eBay) and come out about the same.

Then you wouldn't feel bad about ruining those totally sweet Space Marines on your first sortie.

If you want to dip your tows into the hobby without commiting, yeah maybe.

If you want to get really started, just buy the real stuff.

OK my Imperial Knight is arriving on Wednesday. It's going to be House Malinax, so how do I make it more unique? I was thinking about giving it mandibles as a "Jaw" on the helmet, and obviously some scorpion designs on the armour.
Armour is going to be Zandri Dust - layer Zameesi Desert - Highlight Tau Light Ochre - wash Nuln Oil or Agrax, which should be close enough to the Malinax scheme, if a bit brighter.

Convenient thing about forge worlds is that the individual Magi have their own variant schemes, so this is a bit off the "official" Xana colours in pic related (mostly because I don;t have an airbrush).

its okay. good for someone just starting out, same with the AoS version. The models are great, but the paints are totally fucking garbage. Since they're really small, they're hard as dicks to get open with the pop cap, and half of them end up dried since they've had them sitting around for who knows how long.

For 28€ you can buy a full starter set of Vallejo or Army Painter paint (bigger pots, more pots) (each for around 20€) and then use the remaining 8€ to get 5+ Dark Vengeance Marines.

Glue and green stuff, faggot, just like we did in the old days.

>things fitting perfectly every time

Still makes my skin crawl watching these 'perfect' kits work together in plastic.

Seconding this. Agrax Earthshade is miracles and works with most colours.

>>things fitting perfectly every time

Calm down, guy. What I mean is that the shoulder pads get in the way in such a way I was thinking it belonged to the wrong model.

I mean, there's that little ball and hole that generally fit together, and they barely touch.

One solution I though of was using a different pack, like this one.

I got them from the centaur assault tractors

Very nice work user. You said they come out to Sentinel size? I've been mulling over Sentinel conversions for Broadside proxies.

You wouldnt happen to have a Broadside for size comparison?

Give me a minute, I'll round up everything I've got in that sorta size and line it up for you!

Haven't got any new broadsides but I've got an old one and a forgeworld one - should give you an idea of the size. Chucked a sentinel and contemptor dread in there for further comparison.

Oh user, you are a godsend, my Renegade brother.

My Gue'vesa Broadside seems all the more enticing, now that it wont be Sentinels witha Railgun in the side

They come with the bits to make this variant too - probably a little bit more 'Tau' looking. You could mod the gun with some railgun parts.

painted these 4 flyers the last couple of days, 2 more marauders to go

You need colours that complement each other, and a focal point for the model. Here neither the green nor the yellow go with each other or the silver, and they highlight the knees and part of the gun.

Silver is tricky to work with as a primary colour for the model, it doesn't go with much other than black. If you want yellow/green highlights on detail in dark Eldar then the bulk of the model could be something like a dark purple, which would look colourful and rich, but not gaudy.

Not a big fan of the bubble, i just had the image of being able to assemble my KROOT SOOTS with those, too! Oh boy! Where did you get these, mantic?

Yeah, managed to bag three in their Black Friday sale - even not on sale they're very reasonably priced. The roll cage style I've used would probably be a good fit as well!

Paint it like non-metallic chrome and it will look amazing.

Well, i really liked your off-white (my Kroot are albino scheme) and i figured with some barbed wire and leather mixed with the bone/offwhite might fit