/gurpsgen/ GURPS General: How could you let it die? edition

What's the best story you have from a GURPS game?

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I think Discord has stolen several of the people that used to keep it bumped and occasionally even generate content.

Best GURPS story is a hard one. I'm damn fond of beating the shit out of a werewolf with a quarterstaff, breaking one of it's legs.

We sometimes do get Storytime here. Used to happen more often.

Well fuck Discord.

LT3e, p. 41-42: Use Armory to craft weapons, two rolls for blades (forge then quench&temper), one for all other weapons and missiles. If the armorer works without an assistant and proper forge, -2 to skill. +2 to skill for two 15+ assistants and specialized tools. Making a weapon from a blank saves time, but costs $5/lb. of weapon. Making your own makes it $1/lb. Using Metallurgy allows you to purchase better quality metal, MoS is a bonus to the Armory roll.

Cheap weapons get +10 to the roll, Good are unpenalized, Fine is -10, Very Fine is -20. Taking extra time and haste penalties apply. A normal failure by 1-3 produces a weapon one step less than the quality you set out to make, Cheap weapons are made useless. A failure by 4+ always produces a useless weapon. Blades use the worse of both rolls for blade quality.

It takes 8 hours for a knife or sword, 4 hours for other weapons. Hilting a knife or sword requires an additional 6 hours, or 12 without supplies. Hafting takes one hour for Reach 1, two for longer weapons. Roll Armory for either, with a failure producing an awkward but usable grip (no penalties?) and critical failure means the weapon breaks when used in combat.

This can then be modified for field conditions, advanced equipment, or artistic design. In addition, if drawn wire of suitable gauge is at hand, the time required to make chain is reduced 50%. No skill roll is required; all armor is considered to be of Good quality.

It's weird to me that pretty much anyone with 14 hours to kill can knock out a Cheap quality sword without much trouble, even without any training.

well the most expensive part is the equipment and materials, even in the real world, i wouldn't think it takes that much longer 14 hours to make a standard sword blade of moderate quality.

Armory (Melee Weapons) defaults to IQ-5. 10 IQ human means they have Armory (Melee Weapons)-5. Let's say they want to make a longsword, MA227, which is 4 lbs. The base time for a weapon is Weight * 0.75 hours, or 3 hours for this longsword. Blades have an x1 time modifier. An untrained person will probably be working in field conditions, which is an x1.5 modifier, and -2 to skill. This takes them down to Armory (Melee Weapons)-3. Assuming that, for whatever reason, they set out to just make any sword, and don't try to make a Good quality sword (which is what I assume people will try to make, rather than just trying to make anything), that's Armory (Melee Weapons)-13. Taking extra time to get a +3 adds an x3 multiplier to time, so now we have 3 * 4.5, or 13.5 (14 hours). They still have a roughly 10% chance of rolling above a 16, as they're rolling twice, so they could break the weapon. They then need to take an additional 6 or 12 hours to hilt the blade, meaning that making a sword takes a weekend to do. They're rolling against Armory (Melee Weapons)-5, -2 for field conditions, meaning that they are almost guaranteed to make a hilt that is awkward, and likely one that will break on use.

All in all, yes, an untrained person can create a (cheap and awkward) sword. They would need to have the default in the first place, such as watching youtube videos or reading a book that describes the process. I'd rule that the awkward hilt gives -1 to weapon skill for use, as Cheap (Balanced) would in MA.

I don't think it's unreasonable. I imagine most people will try to make a Good quality blade their first time, then fail miserably, possibly injuring themselves in the process. It takes 34.5 hours to get +10 on the roll for a longsword, which is a lot more time invested than most people would like.

Looking back at the rules, I'm not sure when the taking extra time multiplier is applied. It might need tweaking for 4e, but I think it works well enough.

What is the significance of time anyway? Why couldn't they just take as much time as they wanted to make the damn sword?

>What is the significance of time anyway? Why couldn't they just take as much time as they wanted to make the damn sword?
We're not all NEETs, user. Especially in GURPS circles, where every third player has their post-doctorate and works at CERN. People have things to do besides slave away at a forge for multiple days at a time, working on a single sword. Even armorers don't have the luxury of time, because more time spent working on a single sword is less time spent working on the next. If you need to deliver X swords by Y date, you don't have all of the time in the world anymore.

No? The cost of a cheap sword at $240 isn't anything like the kilogram of steel you'd need to make it. You could make a case that the sunk cost of a forge and tools represent a large investment, but those are infrastructure cost that you can spread across everything you make.

This is imagining more of a modern hobbyist then what I'd think might come up in game, namely a man with access to a workshop that knows trouble is coming by midday tomorrow, with the need to craft a blade something like the one he knows how to use before he runs out of time.

Sure, grinding a old Toyota leaf springs into a sword in the ruins of a high school metal shop before the raiders get back sounds fun, but it's odd that it is a task anybody could do.

Why'd you link my comment in there it doesn't take a terribly long time to make a sword, you need, a forge, a hammer, a smelter, an anvil, and the raw materials needed like iron and charcoal, or you can get some scrap steel that's about it. Grand total for a pro isn't more than a day or two, all told, but from ingot to blade 14 hours sounds about right or perhaps a little long. Of course all that presumes a tech level equivalent to now in forging technology.

The rules are from Low Tech, so they are TL 4 or less.

When would that be in terms of real world?

According to third edition, TL4 and before is from the stone age up to 1700. 4e has TL4 extend to 1730.

well forging changes a lot from stone age to 1700, but from there to now not so much has changed in the technology used in forging.

For what it's worth, the rules are for TL1, which is the bronze age, but the rules say they're applicable for TL 2 and 3, which in 4e covers between 3500 BCE and 1450CE. In 3e, it's from "Athens" to 1450CE. I didn't find any rules for making armory easier at higher TLs, or evolution of forging techniques providing mechanical bonuses. I know dick all about armory, so all I have to go on is forum posts.

oh, well then I may be underestimating modern blacksmiths.

The 3rd edition rules still seem to suffer the major flaw of the 4th edition ones; namely, that the modifiers to skill for weapon quality don't seem to match the prices asked for them.

Here are some house-rules which I think work better.

So... x hours of GURPS time is the same as x hours of real time?

Has the pdf of all of the compiled DF Pyramid articles been released into the wild?

Yes.

DF? I know it has a lot of stuff labeled pyramid.

How do I homebrew /gurpsgen/?

What are tips that you guys have for setting up a campaign, choosing what books you'll be using, etc?

What about character creation options? Do you set up campaigns differently when no one else at the table has played gurps before?

I have read How to be a GURPS GM and Adaptations, and partially read Fantasy. That kinda helps to choose general direction and understand what do you need to do. Then check genre books for more ideas and guidelines.

I don't know anything about third edition, but I don't think it's unreasonable to halve the penalties, since you can get a maximum of +5 for taking extra time in 4e.

>How do I homebrew?
Read the books and use rules that already exist, if possible. If that fails, go to the forums and search for your problem/make a thread about it.

>What are tips that you guys have for setting up a campaign, choosing what books you'll be using, etc?
I figure out what I want to run, then build the campaign to that. I don't think I can give any tips, since it's self-evident what you'll be using after you read a book. High-Tech is the book for modern games. Fantasy helps you make your own fantasy setting. Martial Arts is for any game that has melee combat as a focus. If I want to run a modern wuxia detective game with gunplay, I'd use Basic Set, Gun Fu, High-Tech, Martial Arts, Mystery, and Action.

>Do you set up campaigns differently when no one else at the table has played gurps before?
I build their characters for them, and write a guide on what the numbers and traits on their sheets mean.

>youtube.com/watch?v=zpeyhC-UIFg&t=354s

Have a look at this user.

I've watched quite a few blacksmithing videos, but I'll check it out.

So in other words I've severely underestimated Master Blacksmiths in general

>TL 9 with the aesthetics of TL 6/7

Does something speak against it?

A cold forging press can produce a very high quality blade in seconds that requires minimal polishing and sharpening before it's ready to go and can be used by an unskilled operator with minimal training.

Even without going to a machine press with a proper die you can work much, much faster with modern equipment then you could with unpowered tools.

This form is a very good resource for a GM. It's at least got the questions you need.

I'd suggest starting with an idea that sounds fun to you. Pirates in the 1680s, monster hunters of the 1920s, a dark fantasy world with monsters and beast, ect.

After that it's much easier to pick what books to use.

>Character options.

Try to give people enough choices to be fun without being overwhelming. Templates are a great tool for new players, and let them build a character without needing to figure out what to do with every point. You can find templates in Dungeon Fantasy, Fantasy, Monster Hunters, After the End, Action, ect.

GURPS friends, a question.

Is there any real mechanics for TL4 guns misfiring due to weather conditions and such? Or it's just a GM fiat when the roll for firing a weapon is not good enough to end up with hitting?

Page 90 of Low Tech has rules for this under Water and Firearms. In general, wet conditions reduce the Malfunction number of a cannon-lock or matchlock by 4 to 12, a wheelock or snaplock by 2 to 6 and later flintlocks with a fizzen-covered pan by 1 to 3.

If the increased Malf comes up as a problem there is good news: It's always wet powder/no shot and not an explosion.

>Want to ask a question regarding bronze age setting
>The incoming campaign was to use a jewish shepardess
>The description prepared for players matches the picture
Ok, I'm freaked... I'll come with the question later

Heya guys. Quick question, since character creation app is so dated I can't view the help screens on this version of Windows,
What does the division represent? The 3/1, 6 / 9, 7 / 13, 6 / 12.

Jesus, what program are you using?!

Ehh user, what the fuck? PD is a 3e thing. I doubt even GCA has that.

A great many things. Practicality and efficiency being the most important factor.

In our world, battlefield encounters are trending towards closer ranges and city encounters with civilians nearby, so the evolution is leaning towards carbines and light support weapons rather than battle rifles.
From the picture you posted, just the most immediately noticeable flaws are:

>helmet
Extremely limited field of view.
If you insist on a gas-mask analogue (which could definitely make sense in a TL 9 scenario) visually reminiscent of a TL 6/7 mask, you'll want something a bit thicker with NO eyes, just wide-lens cameras and screens on the inside of the helmet. Tiny eyeslits like the one in your picture are too much of a limitation to be justifiable in TL9, doubly so once you start factoring in extra optional features like infrared and a HUD.

>Coat
Highly impractical battlefield gear, due to it's excessive weight and tendency to get snagged on fucking everything. There are better materials available in TL 9, you don't need the meager wind and rain protection a leather or cloth coat offers, so no military unit would issue coats.
A coat does make sense for a setting where equipment is more restricted though. In a TL9 Cyberpunk for example a coat is affordable, comfortable, fashionable streetwear that also helps when it comes to concealing a weapon.

>rifle
Iron sights are definitely Out by TL9. reflector sights and similar are the default (or you could/would/should use Augmented Reality sights, especially if you're already using direct-feed cameras for your in-helmet vision.)
No wooden parts on a military weapon, most metal is replaced by composite and plastic. If you haven't taken the step to bullpup designs and electronic triggers yet, you'll at the very least have cut down excess weight and cost with cheaper and superior modern alternative materials.
These are mostly minor - look at FN SCAR, it's not a million miles away from your pic.

It's Character Builder for 3e, the resource books I was using were all 3rd edition so that's just what i've been using, sorry. I don't know what I'm doing at all lads to be honest and I've been trying to learn this system for several weeks now but I still got no clue at all AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHH

In the case of armor, it's Normal/Crushing damage

In the case of your Dodge, it's Current/Base, because at Heavy encumbrance you have -3 to dodge.

For Parry and Block.. ? I don't know.

Is this third edition? I'm lost.

Yeah it's third edition. Is it possible encumbrance affected parry and block in third edition?

4e is what now? 15 years old?
3e is what? 25?
Is this some sort of GURPS version of "let's go back to the roots and play oldschool" the D&D crowd is doing with 0D&D and the very first edition of ADD?

All of the resources I had were 3rd edition, and since I'm a little more than new to this, I figured it would be better to start with the oldest (maybe the simplest?)

No, for dodge, parry and block, on the left you have the base value you bought up to, and total on the right. Total includes passive defence from the armor and shield. (-3 for encumbrance for dodge, too)
4e did away with PD on armor, and it became "defence bonus" on shields.

No idea what's after the slash on PD though.

>oldest (maybe the simplest?)
ahahaha

Oh Jesus, user...

Why didn't you ASK first, instead making a wild-guess assumption?
Drop 3e this instant. Don't even look at anything that was published before it was done (the 1 and 2 ed are footnotes in history anyway). And never do assumptions. Ask first.

Jesus... no bashing, serious and sincere question - from where the idea to try 3e first even came?

god damnit i've made a terrible mistake i guess

well, i'm trying to learn this for a WW2 campaign. the WW2 book was 3rd edition, so i figured it would be a whole lot easier to just use 3rd to avoid confusion.

Are we ever getting vehicles 4e and why not

I just want to run mad max

What is bad about 3rd edition?

Not a thing. 4th Edition is just better. 3rd is still a solid system.

Nothing really. GURPS doesn't work like most other games and their versions. It works more like software. You don't use Windows 95 or Mac OS 8 anymore. You shouldn't use GURPS 1 or 2 or 3 anymore.

Gotcha, thanks.

But 4e's book is better organized, and some rules have been rewritten to be more clear.
Also some things do change. Like passive defence disappearing off armor and becoming defence bonus on shields, half-points disappearing, some ads/disads/skills had their point-cost change, strength and health now costing 10 points instead of 20, piercing damage is now a thing, etc.

I want to GM a low-tech farming game, what do I need?

High-tech book has ww2 guns and other stuff, you can use ww2 book as guideline without relying on 3e rules.

It's not bad, some 3rd materal is very useful still..

But it's quite hard to get help with it. As we showed right here most of us have no idea when it comes to 3rd ed questions, and 4th edition has MUCH better programs to support it.

What is the question?

The Basic Set, Low Tech and this (Low Tech Companion 3) should suit your needs well.

There's a GURPS discord?
.....Link?

discord.gg/enDrnUc

thanks.

Let's not let this one die Anons.

Blame the discord.

What is a better way to handle a sword still in a sheath used as a weapon? As a baton/quarterstaff, depending on size? Just normal, but make it deal cr rather then cut or imp?

Also, is it kosher to take away advantages if you allow them to be replaced? I have a player that is going to have a lot of social advantages sunken into one place that, plot wise, is going to be very hard to access for a long time. I'm tempted to drop those advantages and replace them with equal point values so he's not stuck.

I've got my own question to ask: For RPM spells with Area Affect and Affliction, say a Lesser Control Body + Affliction, Stun + Area Effect, X Yards... how does that work mechanically when I cast the spell? Is the area centered on me? Do I have to roll to hit with it? Do I need to add Ranged? Do I need to roll to hit if it's Ranged?

Also, can you "hold" onto any spell after casting?

HT197 says to treat a katana's sheath as a baton.

As for subbing in advantages, I think that's part and parcel of any social advantage. It goes away when it's unavailable. You should let him earn new advantages for the new location, though, if it's going to be a long-term thing, rather than a few sessions. He might enjoy "starting from scratch," since it gives a lot of opportunities to roleplay, and I assume someone with a lot of social advantages has a character that is sociable enough to form new, lasting bonds.

Just give it a while for anons to be banned for being channers.

Things like patrons, contacts and reputation? Just let him take them at half cost if the location's not going to pop up often.

How would you guys do a GURPS racing campaign?
>horses
>cars
>podracers

Steal Redline wholesale. Use rules from Action 2 for the races. Make it about the characters and their circumstances, rather than racing and racing mechanics. Pull my hair out because four different people want to play four different things and they can't all be on the same team, meaning I have to basically run 2+ games.

>What is a better way to handle a sword still in a sheath used as a weapon? As a baton/quarterstaff, depending on size? Just normal, but make it deal cr rather then cut or imp?

Probably the latter, since it avoids issues like not being able to find a suitable equivalent club or reach changing when you add the sheath. Only issue with that is that you need to remember not to count blade quality and maybe have the thrusting damage restricted to the closest blunt weapon (it seems odd that a thrusting broadsword does more damage than either a blunt tipped broadsword or a light club when it is sheathed). I might also add a small skill penalty or something to represent the balance being off and the sheath flopping around as it slides off the blade.

It's just a sword with cr damage really, though weapon skills are very loose. Treating it as a baton would probably be fine, and if you turn the sword around you get an improvised hammer!

Weapon skills are pretty stupidly limited in my opinion, so as a GM I'd recommend to treat them pretty fast and loose.

Its a sword with cr, but with +1 to damage per dice. It has somethign to do on how GURPS deals with damage but i'm not sure what because i don't remember, i got this note a while ago after asking on the forums

Ow, the edge.

Why would they ban channers?

For obvious reasons, like failing to hide their power level, and not nurturing a kid-friendly environment.

So, how do i replicate Ursarkar Creed on GURPS?

Not even that user but the discord was posted multiple times over here, its user profile pop is huge.

So, how do i replicate Ursarkar Creed on GURPS?

Not even that user but the discord was posted multiple times over here, its user profile pop is huge..

GURPS discord sucks ass.

No bullying.

Go fuck yourself with a cheese grater.

I do both of these things and never get banned. Maybe it's just you being acted retarded?

Are there any rules for accidentally hitting your allies in a melee? I know during the assassination of Caesar a bunch of them accidentally stabbed each other and I am curious if I can replicate that.

Basic page 392, Striking into a Close Combat.

thanks

Not sure, but aren't there rules for hitting people with the flat side of the blade?

Prolly my favorite story from a GURPS game is when 3 of my players, a carbon copy of iron man, a guy who was druid zangeef (the wrestler), and a pizza deliver flash in a modern magic/monsters campaign ended up being trapped in basement with 3 elder vampires and having to duke it out with them while a primordial avatar of death (one of the other players) hunted down the boss of the vampires for the sin of lingering beyond their time. that was one of hell of a game.

What are the three most important pieces of advice you'd give a GM before their first session?

Veeky Forums, I am trying to recruit players for an online GURPS game, voice chat - either G+, Roll20 or whatever. What websites do you recommend for advertising an GURPS campaign and getting some damn players?

My voice sounds like a suffering dog and english isn't my native language, but, may i join? i'm a forever GM, so, at this point i don't even mind the theme

Also put your game as 'needing players' on roll20 +go to GURPS discord see if there are any anons looking for a game

Also i'm the resident tokenfag, if that is of any help, but be ware, they are simple and sometimes really shitty.

When calculating the CER of a monster and his best attack skill is a brawling grapple and he has extra arms do you do the effective skill with the bonuses for the extra arms or just the base brawling?

Just the base Brawling.

What would be appropriate to roll against to detect subtleties in an NPC's speech (sarcasm, doubt, sadness, etc.)?

No roll.
Well-adjusted people almost always catch subtleties like sarcasm or doubt in normal conversations, you'd need a disadvantage like Clueless or Oblivious to miss it.

That said, people occasionally do get it wrong, if you insist on making it a roll, maybe IQ+10? The equivalent of "in plain sight"?
Add penalties for non-native language speakers.
A penalty for lack of information? Essentially going from "in plain sight" to "very obvious" and "not so obvious"
No body language, i.e. not looking at someone and having access to their voice only, might be -2. IQ+8
A phone call with average audio quality might warrant -4, a roll at IQ+6
A real-time text chat might be IQ+4, and so on.

Body Language.

Disadvantages would also play in to this. Oblivious would likely remove the +10 "in plain sight" equivalent.

Come to think of it, Per is probably more appropriate than IQ.

Ehhh RAW it's Per to detect something but IQ to understand/comprehend. I'd say it's IQ for this case.

A player of mine wants an ability that will allow him to bestow power to other characters (But never player characters) and essentially use this to gain npc followers. I told him that giving them power would be fine with the flavor of his power, but that he wouldn't have a means to control their will. He agreed.

The question is what's the best way to do this in GURPS? My thought was to use Allies. Using the enhancement "Conjured" you can reflect both that your allies can never truly be killed, because you can always just endow someone else with the power instead, and it works out pretty nicely overall.

However, would the character by default be allowed to "dismiss" the boon? Or would he have to wait until the NPC which he gave his power died. Also, what would be an appropriate estimate of points. I figured 100% would be fair, since he could in theory gain really powerful or really helpless allies depending on who he gave the boon to.

What power are they bestowing? Whatever power it is should probably be an Affliction with Extended Duration (Permanent). The +150% version means that it can be removed by some means, which works out for the PC dismissing the affliction. Removing the affliction by force would be Negated Advantage (Advantage that was afflicted).

Detect Lies, Body Language, or Psychology. Perhaps at default. Probably with a pretty solid bonus (at least +4, this is pretty routine use). If they're working hard on their subtlety then one of the above without the bonus as a quick contest against their Acting.

I don't want to price it as an affliction because it's not nearly going to be powerful enough to justify it. The player characters are all half-deities in power, and it would be the type of ability that could bestow a divine 'gift' to one player's followers

You can adjust the price to be appropriate as the GM. I think Affliction with Extended Duration (Permament; Until I revoke my blessing, +150%) is much cleaner for what you want.

I assume you mean the Summonable enhancement for Ally. The problem with this is that the Ally would need to already have the boon on their character sheet. The PC isn't giving it to them, they're summoning an Ally that already has it. Removing it would still be an Affliction with Negated Advantage, or some sort of selective Static or Neutralize or what have you.