WIP -- Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

suki suki ten dorrars.

i was assembling a model just now, and i was using an old hobby blade to cut up some greenstuff, and i accidentally jabbed the tip of the blade under my nail. only few millimeters deep, just enough to draw a tiny spot of blood, not enough to actually bleed. the blade is old and had a few spots of rust on it, near the base. what are the chances of me actually contracting tetanus? enough to worry about?

argellian earth.

Just got started painting minis. I'm going to be starting in Warmachine soon and so I've been practicing on my Zombicide minis. I just painted my first one; it wasn't too hard, but it took me forever just to do one mini. Like 3.5+ hours. It was pretty mediocre but actually way better than I thought it would turn out. So, two questions.

Does this process get any faster? I only ask because there are over 70 minis in the base game and it'll take me ages to do t hem all.

And after I do a wash am I supposed to go back over with the base color? Or is it okay sometimes to leave that slightly darker and dirty look on parts of the mini?

Freehand over crackle paint. Given it's a GW model they probably used GW's "Agrellan Earth" paint for the crackle effect and then painted over it.

Frankly it feels pretty out of scale for flaking paint on a knight. You're probably better off just weathering by stippling with a sponge/foam to represent paint chipping and flaking.

youtube.com/watch?v=gyuPxJG5kFc

You're gonna die family.

if you have several minis all similar, such as a bunch of identical soldiers, you can 'batch paint' like, get out the paint for their clothes, and paint the clothes of all ten at once, then the skin of all ten at once. you will get faster as you get better, but depending on how well you want to paint it up, it will always take time.

after you wash, you can go back with the base coat IF you want to, or you can just put on a layer over it, or you can go straight to highlights, or just leave it. it really depends on the exact tone you want the model to look.

if you want a skin that looks like the base coat but with some slight shadowing, going over again with the base coat is a good idea. if you want the shading to be prominent, like on a model with emphasis on dirt or dark, you can go to highlighting or leave it. it really is however you want to do it, and like any art, it's fine if you're happy with the end result.

I'll do a few at a time next time I paint. Plan out a few with the same color pallet and then just cycle through them while paint dries.

>Does this process get any faster?

Yes and no. You'll find that it takes you less time to get the same finish with practice, but you might want to go further in your paintjobs, so you could spend even longer!

On zombies, the dirty look might be just what you want, or you might want to go back and highlight. I recommend Sorastro's zombicide painting series. youtu.be/Xxm7Y0IJ10U

Hello friends, I want to start painting Skitarii and eventually other AdMech stuff.

Are there any tips you can give me before I get started on them? I've painted Marines for 2 years prior to this.

Finished up the Leviathan, just need to find where I left my transfers.

Probably low but cant hurt to get it checked out.

Neat!

Very clean, I like it.

Well done on the blood, not overdone.

RIP user

He died doing what he loved.

Not being surrounded by insects.

>accidentally cut myself with old rusty knife
>worry about it for five minutes
>then realize the odds of this are so low it's not worth caring about

Keep an eye on it, it's not a deep wound and it's fine if it doesn't look like the blade left any dirt in the cut.

Tell family to keep an eye out for you having:
stiffness in your jaw muscles (lockjaw)

painful muscle spasms – these can make swallowing and breathing difficult

a high temperature (fever) of 38C (100.4F) or above
sweating
a rapid heartbeat

I suffer all these symptoms whenever I drop a tiny and irreplacable piece of a model on the floor

>mfw my carpet is almost exactly the same grey as unpainted GW plastic

Test paint scheme for some IG I'm working on painfully slowly.

I can echo the above, my wife collects Zombicide and has painted most of the original box, she did it like a production line. She used army painter necrotic flesh primer spray which did half the job for her in one sweep, that might speed things up for you.

fug that blood effect is amazing.

a bit dark overall, maybe have the gun or helmet a brighter colour? having the only bright part of the model being the featureless shoulderbad is a bit counterproductive, but clean work overall

looks cool, but i agree with other user that the helm and weapon blends together too much

Are you immunocompromised or something? Honestly, kids these days. Back when I was a youngster you'd cut yourself all the time trying to hack up pewter models, and then you'd snort the lead-rich dust and think nothing of it.

Fair enough, think it would look too corny to go for a wood grain look on a Cadian rifle? Or maybe just using a lighter gray for the helmet?

Where do you usually prime your miniatures? I usually go outside but since it's freezing cold out there i can't.

Reposting from the last thread. I'm thinking of highlighting the metallic red but I'm unsure what colour to use. Would runefang steel work?

Maah leave it as it is . Looks super good

Its kind of hard to highlight metallics like that without it looking like wear and tear, unless you highlight before layering the clear red. Personally I don't think it needs highlights, but weathering is always fun!

It's too late to highlight your red now, you would have wanted to prehighlight with silver at the gold stage and shade with washes at the same time.

That's with tamiya clear red, isn't it. I'd have thought the best way to highlight that would be on the underlying basecoat.

Got a shed/basement/outhouse/garage etc? Should be ok in there.

Or plan them years in advanced and prime them in summer

Maybe try highlighting with a solid red.

Hi /wip/, I'm completely new to painting miniatures (right now I have Bones and Necrons and will likely only be painting these for the foreseeable future) and need guidance. Do you have recommended resources for absolute beginners?

The Warhammer TV Youtube channel. Duncan's pretty popular around here, for good reason.

Start with the Necron specific tutorials and then let them play while you paint.

youtu.be/hOvql835HcE

First finished heavy weapon squad and a junior officer, trying out the glow effect for the first time. Cant wait to get some bigger bases for my thuddguns so i can start making more dioramas

Thank you!

Check the OP link. Has just about anything you need.
The How to Paint Miniatatures are a really good place to start reading.
Then check out the how to paint Necrons guide in there.

For Bones I'd recommend reading the forum post about preparing these models for painting. Heard some people had issues depending on what primer they used. You're supposed to be able to paint them without priming, but sometimes the materials reacts weirdly. Sticky paints and stuff like that. So go read that article on how to prep Bones.

Nicely executed, even if I'm not keen on the glow (that sword must be blindingly bright to cast a glow like that)

Dank, lipped bases work well for 40K IMO.

Superb. Mind sharing your weathering secrets?

Fugg, car paint marines look so good! Why would you highlight though? The metallics do it for you automatically

>Fugg, car paint marines look so good! Why would you highlight though? The metallics do it for you automatically

Not him, but the metallics auto-highlight for a miniature that's a few inches high, and by exaggerating and preshading them you highlight as if he were 7 feet tall.

>someone saved my shitty mspaint edit
Thank you user, you made my day.

you could probably lighten up both gun and helmet with some metally silver bits, maybe brighten the casing some, maybe make the entire helmet a lighter grey
do whatever, don't do too much, but definitely make one of them brighter

why didn't he tell me that all of his models are primed and that i ought to do so too?

Trying to true scale some guys. Still working on paint job

>Why would you highlight though? The metallics do it for you automatically

And here we have the reason NMM became so popular. Because done well it will indeed look amazing compared to un-shaded metallics.

Another picture compared to a guards man

Keep practising I guess. You have a long road ahead of you.

Go Go Gadget extending legs!

THIN
H
I
N

This article covers the subject really well arcanepaintworks.com/blog-1/2016/4/19/true-metallics-vs-non-metallic-metals

If you're gonna truescale, drill your barrels. No excuse.

You're welcome.

Sure, on the phone at the moment but I'll do it when I get home.

I don't even know why 'true scale' exists anymore. If the average man is 6 ft. and a marine is 7 to 8 ft then the models are about right now.

Some I've seen make the marine Primarch size.

highlighted metallics look so much better than non-highlighted. non-highlighted is going to look very flat.

Where is that mini from? Prospero box?

his neck is way to long

Anons, for my first Heresy army, I want to do Xana II Mechanicum. Colour scheme is apparently brass for the Cybernetica and something like this for the rest of the army, and I lack an airbrush to replicate Forge Worlds scheme. Plan was basecoat Zandri Dust, layer zameesi desert and highlight Tau light ochre, would that produce something about right?

What colour primer should I use?
Also, some of the Armour panels and shoulder pads will be dark red to break it up. Anyone know a good method for that?

Ideally Games Workshop's paints, they're the most available for me.

I know that feel.
RIP Kroot hand modeled onto CSM Chainsword

take a flashlight and hold it in a low angle just above the ground.
The bits will cast shadows you can see better than the pieces themselves.

You already got the awnser from most, but whatever
The chances of it are practically zero, if I was you I'd worry more about sepsis than tetanus
If you really think it could be an infection, just get a bit of alcohol (at least 40%, but preferably 70%), dip your finger in that for a short while and all will be fine

I hate my carpet so much. Flashlight thig works really well.
Usually, I don't need It. My gf has cats, as soon as a piece falls they run straight to It, sniff the thing, get disappointed It's not a plaything/food, and leave It alone.

Would it be at all possible to mount the Hellhammer primary weapon in place of the Vulcan Mega-bolter on a Stormlord? I want to do some modifications, but the Stormlord hull was the most suitable whereas I want the Hellhammer Cannon. Going to be a personalised DarkMech ride anyway, so no worries on the heresy front.

Thoughts of my just created Lord of Plagues?
Please ignore the blu-tak, mold lines and unfiled bits on it

I just put it together in a burst of creativity

He looks like a lord of flies
Dope

Awesome, thanks
I cannot wait until i paint him

's nice.

Turns out acrylic is a huge pain in the ass to work with at small scales.

Where's the cloak from?

Thanks you
The multi use kits that GW have really come in handy

Hey lads, I want to do the volcanic base using Martian Ironearth like St. Duncan told us to do

The thing is that I want to do it on my blood bowl base. Should I cut the mini from the plastic thing that goes in the base's hole or should I do the lava effect around the figure?

I recently had an idea.

How hard would it be to turn a check aquila into NL bat wings?

Chest, not check. Fuck

Working on Gorechosen, really scared of doing good brass.

Any tips?

Be forewarned as well that batch painting is the worst for having any sort of enjoyment.

Paint inside the cloaks BEFORE you attach the legs. It makes it way easier.

Warplock bronze is a really good paint, then choose highlights to taste. Wash with Agrax.

Alright, so I used a mix of Vallejo and Citadel stuff for this but any similar colour will do. For all intents and purposes Vallejo Gun Metal and Steel = Citadel Leadbelcher and Runefang Steel.

Metal:

>Basecoat Leadbelcher
>Wash with Brown-Black shade
>Lightly sponge (blister pack foam works great) back up to Leadbelcher keeping it random and not too focused on one area.
>Lightly sponge Runefang Steel.
>Edge highlight with Steel.
>Random strokes of Steel for scratch marks with a fine brush.

Grime:

These steps are interchangeable, for some spots I did all of them, for others just the first one.

>Random spots of sepia wash, or streaks if starting around a rivet.
>(Optional) Second layer of sepia wash over the same spot.
>(Optional) Thinned layer of green-brown paint over sepia wash (e.g. Olive Drab, Typhus Corrosion, etc).
>Nuln Oil gloss for oily joints or particularly grimy spots (such as under the grill on the chest).

Mud:

>Not too thinned stippling of dark brown (Rhinox Hide) with a worn down brush, think one thats been over-used for drybrushing. Layer it up until it hides as much or as little of the surface as you want.
>Wash with brown.
>Rough application of gloss medium.
>(Optional) Nuln Oil Gloss wash (I used this for the base).

Blood/Gore:

This ones hard for me to recommend, as I don't think I used the best stuff for it, next time I'll try using UHU All-Purpose.

>Small globs of two-part epoxy (e.g. araldite)
>Once it starts drying, start pulling it from one glob to another and keep doing it until the strands don't shrink back into the blobs.
>Once dry, paint over with Blood for the Blood God/Tamiya Clear Red.
>Sparing streaks and stippling of BftBG.
>Wash of Nuln Oil Gloss in the thickest areas of blood.

And that's basically it. Hope that helps!

Warplock Bronze is quite good, but also dark. Also check out Balthazar Gold and Runelord Brass/Brass Scorpion.

Alien looking grass to go with a semi- barren Martian Ironearth?

So I've never attempted any sculpting, but I want to make some giant maggots as beast of Nurgle models.

What should I be using to sculpt an entirely new model?

I had to take a clipper to Mannfred's cape

Wire mesh for overall frame. Use greenstuff (Kneadatite), miliput, fimo, or whatever sounds good to you and some sculpting tools to do the rest.

I like your initiative. The fact that there is only a single sculpt for a beast of Nurgle is dissapointing.

Not to mention it's a hideous sculpt and not not even hideous-in-a-good-Nurgle-way.

Way I look at it, a big maggot is a pretty easy way to start off. Essentially just a big segmented tube that tapers at each end. Or maybe a big tentacled mouth at one end.

You need something strong for the frame like said. Also you should use grey stuff for the bigger parts of the mini and green stuff for the smaller detail work. Grey stuff is better for big areas and it is easier to file, GS is the way to go for small details.

Also if you haven't sculpted anything, prepare for the fact that your creations will really suck in the beginning. It is just like with painting, practice makes you better.

Oh and remember to keep your tools and/or fingers wet while you sculpt. The green stuff will otherwise get stuck on your tools and your fingers will also leave nasty fingerprints all over the green stuff. Lots of people are lazy and think that paint will cover it, but in most cases it won't and you'll end up with a shitty looking result.

Easy way is to wear plastic gloves. The thin ones.

Working on my NL again trying to get Duncan's technique down. I used a different brush for the shoulder lightning, and I'm going to paint over the bottom and try again with that same brush.

I think it came out much better.

I'm not a great painter and I'm not very interested in using like 15 paints for one guy. But how's this? Also, what would be a good base type to go with the brown boots?