WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

You're suggesting he shoot straight paint? That's the only scenario I can envision you'd want to go that high.
You might need a drop or two. Probably not much. Shoot for multiple thin coats.

always use a little water/thinner/flow improver

Nah, I (nearly) never shoot straight paint, always using some water and or thinner and or flow improver.

But still, limiting yourself to one pressure is obstructing yourself

I dunno, I started high when I got my Iwata and I was getting spiders everywhere until I dialed it down. 10-15 is where I end up sitting unless I'm priming.

Whatever works for you, brother. But still, you can't simply say 10 psi is always best. It varies greatly depending on nozzle size, the airbrush used, the color used, etc.

>Making a 5mm deep 30m diameter socket in the top of a warlords arm for a big magnet.
Are you fucking retarded?
Oh wait, you bought a warlord, more money than sense, right.

Seriously though, it sounds very structurally unsound. Drill 3-4 deep holes put wires through and drill at one end, so it looks like an electric plug (except longer) or something. That should stop the arm from rotating (important when you have a giant resin barrel pointing forward) and you can get away with a smaller, easier to install magnet.

Well OK; what are you using, and why are you going that high?

Depends. If I'm using a .2 nozzle with rather thick paint for very focused highlights, I need 25-30. Or if I'm priming. My old, cheap airbursh needed higher psi to get a clear spracing picture.

It's 100% structurally sound, the magnet takes the place of whatever material was removed and isnt coming out thanks to epoxy and greenstuff and the magnet itself has a 2kg pull force. The arm doesn't rotate unless I move it and the arm doesnt come off unless I want it to.

also, check nextlevelpainting on YT.
Yes, he is pretty obnoxious, but he can use his airbrush pretty well. He also paints with high pressure.

He's not as bad if you just skip the intros to his videos.

>pretty obnoxious
bit of an understatement.

That's what I do, but you have to warn people cause that 'HITTING YOU UP ON THE LITERAL BEST OF ALL DAYS' and his patron stuff is reaaaaally annoying.
also, the lingo: His 'gangster gunbo' and 'ancient chinese tricks' are really annoying but GOOD advice.

i don't think i understood correctly, am i supposed to thin my paints?

No, paint thinning is a lie pushed by the hobby vampires who feed off the extra time and effort spent applying multiple thin layers.

Slap it on as thick and fast as you can user, straight out of the pot if possible!

Its just a meme, you dont really need to thin your paints, ever

Depends on the paint's consistency.

a general rule is thin to the consistency of peanut butter.

No it's a meme, always THICKEN your paints. Not too much just 1:3 pva glue to paint is perfect.

dont listen to this guy, you want to thicken it with sand, or crushed gravel. pva will just leave you with sticky models.
no but really, most paints out of the pot are thick, and you want to thin them with water to the consistency of milk. you want them to cover your model surfaces without obscuring detail, at all. if it's blobbing on rivets or insignias or in any way hiding the detail, your paints too thick. you may need to thin it to the point where you need to apply several coats for a consistent colour, this is normal. you dont 'always' thin your paints, but you generally do.

NEVER thin your paints. It ruins the adhesive and ir dries scratchy and pools to the bottom of the model so you get this ugly effect of too much color at the bottom of the model, and not enough at the top.

Currently working on a converted Gun Servitor

if i saw that coming at me i'd piss myself. where did you get the skull?

Honestly, I have no idea. I looked far and wide for an appropriately sized skull but couldn't find anything. Then i visited my parents and little brother, and he had that little skull on a shelf. Likely from a $2 shop. Lucky find,

More progress on my test Night Lord.

I need to rough up the lightning on the studded leg, but I think I'm getting there.

Looking pretty nice

Blanche / 10

Truly, a weapon to rival Metal Gear.

When halloween comes around again you should pay a visit to a local one dollar store or equivalent.
Basically any place where you can buy cheap crap and terrible decorations.

great idea, if only there was a halloween store in january..

>Truly, a weapon to rival Metal Gear.
well right now you could buy left over christmas stuff.
Bells or other ornaments. Dried lotus pods and the like.

Though on amazon you can buy that kind of stuff all year round.
Not quite as cheap, but you can still find it if you need it.

A friend of mine wants to start an Ork Freebooter army.

What models work best with this? Is there a company that makes good conversion pieces to this end?

He probably won't make more than a Killteam or so, but it should be a fun project I can help with.

DO IT

Apparently people with knowledge of casting hang out here. Anyone have experience with ComposiMold?

>What models work best with this? Is there a company that makes good conversion pieces to this end?
You mean like full on pirates?
Spellcrow, puppetswar, Kromlech and Maxmini have a selection of ork bits.
Most of these should have ork pirate bits too.

Not that guy but I'm doing a squad of assault marines at the moment that will have hazard striped swords.

>Apparently people with knowledge of casting hang out here.

No we don't!

>Anyone have experience with ComposiMold?

[checking Google to see if this is a product I've used] maybe, but I personally do not.

Micro Mark 1:1 is great for simple two-part molds, but it has the consistency of Velveeta cheese. It tears easily if your master has overhangs or gaps. Micro Mark 10:1 is much stronger, but is a thick goopy mess. I don't care for it. Alumilite High Strength 3 is my new favourite, but I've only done one project with it (pic related).

>hazard striped swords.

I'm taking notes. Keep typing stuff user.

>I'm taking notes. Keep typing stuff user.

This guide shows up in here from time to time. Ironically, I've never had much luck (zero luck, to tell the truth) casting things with resin, and prefer to work with low-melt pewter alloys instead. I got most of my ideas from da clevva ladz at Hirst Arts:

hirstarts.com/moldmake/moldmaking.html

Reading materials, nice one.

Also, while "dusting" of your molds might seem "extra" or "trivial", it's not. It's important to break up the surface tension of your material, or you get an odd texture to the surface that looks like raindrops falling on an otherwise calm pond. They say for metal you should dust your mold with graphite powder, but that unscented (talc) baby powder will do in a pinch. I've found that the latter is actually *better*.

You should write a new guide to be honest

I wonder, do you sell these Johnnies or did you send them away for the SS?

FOUR JOHNNY?!
FOOL. YOU'LL UPSET THE NATURAL ORDER

>I wonder, do you sell these Johnnies or did you send them away for the SS?

I gave one recast away to a lad in Italy, but have never sold them. The Johnny I sent out for Secret Santa wasn't a recast, and isn't shown in the picture; Beckenham user painted that one up (pic related) better than I painted mine!

>FOUR JOHNNY?!
>FOOL. YOU'LL UPSET THE NATURAL ORDER

Desperate times call for desperate measures.

THE ENEMY IS USING PSYCHOLOGICAL WARFARE

eyy guys, I think that these two need some "More". I'm currently waiting on plasticard and want ideas.

also here's a warbike I did. I'm unsure how to paint it. Matchbox bikes are great for orks.

Waaagh

Chaps, I have some mars pattern plasma cannons. Can anyone tell me the safest way to bend the resin wires into place? Heat them using hot water?

Why buy plasticard? Go buy "for sale" signs from the dollar store.

That's the way to bend resin, so yeah. Your other option might be to snip them off and replace them with guitar string cables.

Anons, for my first Heresy army, I want to do Xana II Mechanicum. Colour scheme is apparently brass for the Cybernetica and something like this for the rest of the army, and I lack an airbrush to replicate Forge Worlds scheme. Plan was basecoat Zandri Dust, layer zameesi desert and highlight Tau light ochre, would that produce something about right?

What colour primer should I use?
Also, some of the Armour panels and shoulder pads will be dark red to break it up. Anyone know a good method for that?

Ideally Games Workshop's paints, they're the most available for me, but I can get others if needed, obviously.

Ultimate evolution

Prime black, then spray your panels with GW's Zandri Dust spray if you're confined to rattlecans.I don't think Tau Light Ochre is what you want for this though, I think you want to look at Rakarth Flesh and Flayed One, washed with Agrax.

The red will go on over your zandri spray fine, if you want it dark (dull?) then mix in browns and don't go so far into orange on highlights. I mix mournfang brown into my mephiston for darker reds.

What happens if I try to reshape painted resin?

Paint might chip and/or flake off. It might be fine. Depends on how much you're changing the shape of the resin, if you primed properly, etc.

Thanks, user. I was having a few doubts re. highlights there myself. Those look much more suitable. The red is ideally going to be just slightly darker than Mephiston, so I'll experiment with some mixes on my test models.

I didn't know there was a Zandri Dust spray, I'll have to pick that one up. Given how much Nuln Oil and some Agrax I'll need to darken the skeletons on Knights and such to a good level, I'll have to grab an extra pot or two, and probably a bigger brush. This is going to be fun, most of the army will be converted, so I can use some of the giant pile of Admech parts my War Convocation has left me with.

You'll thank yourself for picking up a Leadbelcher spray and a large drybrush for the skeleton as well.

I was initially skeptical of the gloss washes, but gloss nuln produced a nice finish on my knight.

Finished my test model for my upcoming 30K Death Guard. Wash went a little fucky but I think the effect works well enough, my proper ones will probably be a bit cleaner. C&C on colour choice and basing appreciated, mould lines and bolter barrel left because he's only a test model.

Got the Leadbelcher spray at the moment, actually, but I need to order up some magnets and greenstuff to build the rest of the Knight before I can do more than the legs. Once the weather improves I can prime, spray and paint up the legs and those armour panels, and do a base for him. Was considering the gloss Nuln oil for some of the pistons and such, but the rest of him is going to be matte, so Lahmian Medium and regular washes. Had good experiences with the gloss on my Skitarii and Cult Mechanicus, though.

I def. need some more brushes, plus some of that Masters stuff I've seen recommended.

Anyone know any models with a similar looking tail to what necron wraiths have? Need them for a conversion but can't find the bits in stock anwhere.

Anyone else slightly annoyed by the totally obvious painting questions? Like you can find answers for them with Google very easily. I understand if you have more specific questions and shit, but fuck, it takes like 5 seconds to type on Youtube or Google how to do something basic.

Am I a cunt for being annoyed by this?

Tomb King sepulchral guard have them may find soem cheap since the models notoriously break.

Puppetswar sell an alternate version of those models. They have a whole line of alt-necrons.
spiders instead of scarabs, alt-tomb spiders and different heads for the warriors.

>all that greenstuff

Daily reminder that resin is the superior modelling material, all other materials just can't compete...

Bought some necrons but can't decide on a colour scheme. Vanilla black with green highlights or pale blue and gold?

For me FW just isn't worth it. With paying so much you should fucking have a product that doesn't need insane amount of prep work before you can even start painting it.

Hey guys I'm trying organize all my hobby shit. Is there any kind of case or something where I can put all of this in an organized manner, and also easy to transport? I'm tired of having to transport 5+ boxes each time I want to take my hobby to another place, and there's even more shit not included in the picture.

The eyes could need a stronger red.

Reposting from last thread since no replies.

I'm about 3 hours total in on this Broadside, and looking for feedback on a couple specific points.
>Gun muzzle: Plain black as normal?
>Gun disc: Should I do this the same blue as the rest of my armor, Leadbelcher, or something else entirely?
>Missile tips: I've done red on other models and I'm thinking about doing them again.
>What's the best lens color I could use with this scheme? I have every primary color bright enough I could use for lenses.

Remaining to do: Abaddon Black areas, cleanup, and the aforementioned details (plus highlights if I decide I want to do them).

If this is an Istvaan V post virus bombing the base is pretty fitting, though I think a bit more contrast would help the model.
For example a urban rubble scape with mostly dark greys and blacks would be a nice contrast to the off-white armor.

Looks good though, and thematically fitting for deathguard.

Barely, but yes - rather, an off-brand called "amazing remelt". What do you want to know from my limited experience with it?

I didn't reply last thread because I try not to shit on people, but I'll go this time.

I really dislike your scheme, and I think it's been executed poorly.
If you're sticking with this scheme then highlight your blues a lot more, it will look better but I will still disagree with it.

I can't quite tell what that reddy brown colour on the gun and chest is, but it clashes with the blue badly.

When you look at the studio schemes for tau, they steer clear of metallics for everything but small accents, and that's the right call.
If you keep your blue on the armour (but lighten it with significant highlights) and replace the leadbelcher parts with either white or black accents it could look good.
Get rid of that reddy brown entirely.
With your guns, whichever of black or white that you didn't use on the armour, and you could get away with small bright orange accents for lenses and power cores or whatever tau have.

Thanks for the info. I'm working on a Talos rearing up on a tail like in pic related. I'm not sure the tomb kings models will be suitable, but the puppets war stuff seems promising.

>highlight your blues more
I've done so on some of my Crisis suits, and I do like the way it looks better than flat blue. Still have to fix some surface details on the blue before I start highlighting here.
>reddish brown
That's Warplock Bronze.
>the studio schemes steer clear of metallics... and that's the right call
Here's where we disagree. Dark blue on black looks godawful and doesn't actually look like metal whatsoever. It looks like, well, a plastic robot. I don't touch white, since it goes wrong on every model I've tried it on *and* it looks bad in my opinion. I'm not a huge fan of Warplock even though I'm using it, but it looks better at this point. And there's no way in hell I'm going back and stripping the rest of my models again to match an updated scheme.

I appreciate the commentary, and I don't think you're shitting on my work. I'm already invested enough in this scheme that I can't change a ton of the basics, and I have to force myself to paint new stuff as it is, let alone redo all my old stuff for the second time.

How can I make this look less dumb, how would I position the straps also?

Looks more dumb of the back. Should I remove the exhaust and just put a piece of plasticard on there instead?

Any advice for painting metal models? I managed to get my hands on old Diaz Seekers, and I'd like to avoid messing them up.

I prefer annon's advice and tips more than googles

There's relatively little too mess up, just prime and paint. Make sure you pin where needed and fill gaps.

Yeah, not much different than plastic or resin. Just be sure to clean them thoroughly before priming, mold release agent is gonna make your primer rub right off.

>Any advice for painting metal models? I managed to get my hands on old Diaz Seekers, and I'd like to avoid messing them up.

It's very much like painting plastic models, except you'll need to use superglue for assembly instead of plastic cement. Just like plastic models, though, you'll want to prime them, thin yer paints, and (possibly even moreso than with plastics) AVOID TOUCHING THEM!

Secure the model you are working to another object you can hold so that you don't deposit the oil from your fingers on it or rub the paint off while you're working. Often, the easiest way to do this is to glue the model to its base and then stick the base to something else with poster putty/blu-tack (visible underneath the base in this picture).

Got all these for like 30$ and I have DE to paint what kind of scheme can I do with this?

Buy black and you can do the standard dark green kabal that's the posterboy of DE.

I also only have white primer would a full green scheme look better with that?

green armor
grey fabrics
brass metals

Did some touch ups, highlighting, and colored the lenses. This is about my limit with these brushes. I'm hitting an arts store this weekend, so hopefully the next one will turn out much better. This was largely a test anyway.