WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

Neon Blue, nearest colour to Purple, i think.

I'm getting back to the hobby and I desperately need a new phone.

You need a backdrop
and from the looks of it new glassware

why? It's lovely

Doing some more work on the Psyker

So, WIP, I want to paint my necrons in pic related colour scheme.
Limbs and Lower torso with Abaddon Black and Eshin grey highlights.
Chest, head, shoulders and spine Ulthuan Grey/Celestra Steele with White Scar for highlights.
Anything tubes/energy/eyes goes Caledor Sky.
The glyph stays golden, higher ranking stuff gets more elaborate details.
I want to base them like that: youtube.com/watch?v=Om_oul2UdyU

So, what I'm actually want to ask is: Any constructive criticism? I've yet to start actually painting them, but that's what I want to go for.

Hey guys.

am trying to find some nice model to convert into Inquisitorial psykers. Any idea ?

(i was going to ask for inq bits but then remembered there's nothing outside FW's etched brass and green stuff)

Christ extra arms take forever to deflock. Pleased with how the conversions worked out, used the power tool spares and banner from the hybrid kit on the deathwatch acolytes. Fuck buying a acolyte iconward for £15.

>am trying to find some nice model to convert into Inquisitorial psykers. Any idea ?
trolls under the bridge and kromlech do alt inquisition models.

>fully assembling before priming/painting

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If I want my Blood Bowl dwarfs to have a purple uniform, what colors should I get?
Should I make metallic purple?
What colors should I make the clothes and the gems?

I want the bases to be grey and also they mostly have really open postures so it's easy to get around the parts. Plus it was hard to judge if the conversions would fit without just glueing them in place.

Skaven team is in moot green cloth with genestealer purple armour. Washed the armour in a green wash which actually looks better than the purple washes.

just gonna post the minis i can think off
all with the eye staff.

and what are you using for highlightning the Genstealer purple?

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So i'm trying to paint the Ogroid and i'm struggling with the tattoo's, i've drawn an awful diagram to hopefully try and explain what i dont understand how i should be painting it.

This is supposed to be a cross section view of the model (very simplistic obviously).

When painting the tatoo area i am unsure if i should be doing it like 1,2,3 or 4.
Should it be one layer of paint like in picture 1? Or several layers like in picture 4? I find that when i am trying to do it, the paint from the tattoo scheme ends up on either side of the "trench" depression like in picture 2 which i am unsure if thats ok, i get the feeling those side walls should still be the same colour as the skin on top? OR perhaps i am totally wrong and i am actually supposed to "fill up" the depression with paint like in diagram 3. I highly doubt that but i thought i'd include it.

I hope that makes somewhat sense, i dont think it does but maybe someone can decipher my bullshit and help me out.

Not sure yet, its between daemonette hide and slaanesh grey. Slaanesh grey is a 'redder' purple so it fits genestealer better but it's also quite bright and may be stark whilst daemonette hide is bluer but darker also.

2.

About to begin on Crawl, and wanted a diffrent paint scheme for him.

I was looking for a creamy look for his robes, sadly I can't seem to paint cloth worth a damn.

Anyone got a good guide for the absolutely talentless on cream cloth?

Been looking for the deathwing-ish cream if that matters.

1/4 would look cleanest to me.

2 is gonna end up looking messy imo. Speaking from years of experience painting the trim on marines and chaos here.

3 should not happen. At least not with paint.

The problem with 2 is that you have to redraw a new border yourself. Meaning you'll basically redraw the pattern freehand, which defeaths the point of molded detail in the first place.

In any case there is no 'right' way to do it.
Try both ways and see which one looks better to you and the go with that.

cream is basically a colour three-way between Brown, Yellow and White and it usually goes from brown to yellow to white as more light reflects upon it. start with a brown basecoat, then a thin coat of ushabti bone or zandri dust. Then another coat this time ignoring the deep folds, then a brown wash. go over with a thin coat of zandri/ushabti on raised surfaces, finally hit the most raised parts in a thin coat of white.

Thank you i aprreciate the response. Just i was really unhappy with how inconsistent the tatoo looked, like sometimes i had paint just on the bottom, other times the paint was catching the sides, other times i was just not accurate enough and was overspilling onto the top. I was struggling to explain what i ment and i'm glad you guys understood. Thanks again, i'll just keep practicing. This is the model as he looks, i'll be starting again on him. I posted it last thread but didnt explain it very well.

Do you guys choose what to equip your models with based on what you think you'll use while playing or what you think looks cool?

yes.
For my first army I went with meltas and multimeltas on principle because I liked the look best.
I also know I will probably never use gravgun cause it doesn't feel 40k enough for me. The look doesn't sit well with me.
For squad leaders and characters it's 50/50 what would look cool and be a good combination on the table. Though it's harder to go wrong there.

Guess I mostly just go with what looks cool because the rules are gonna be obsolete the next edition.
And I started building most of my collection in 3rd when the distinction between power axes, swords and maces did not exist anymore.

Both. I'll try and find a balance between cool, fluffy and useful.

depends but most tend to equip according to rules, no one would care if you called a slightly different appearance a certain option i.e hand flamers can be autopistols and so on. Often you don't even get supplied enough parts to make rules credible units.

What's the best/cheapest product that you guys use to achieve still water effect?

I have some swamp bases on my desk and would like to pick Veeky Forums brain on what to use.

I always want to go with 1 but then I look at how awesome burst canons and broadside railgun look and go with 2.

How I do them (primed black):
Zandri Dust basecoat
thinned Ushabti Bone over everything
layer of Ushabti Bone on the more raised parts
Pallid Wych Flesh broad highlight
White Scar sharp edge highlight

If you're doing robed marines prime in bone, plain prime in dark angels.. Why prime in black anymore? Atleast prime in grey

>am trying to find some nice model to convert into Inquisitorial psykers. Any idea ?

You mean "psyker that is part of an Inquisitorial retinue" as opposed to "Inquisitor who is also a psyker", right?

Mordheim Augur
Imperial Navigator
Astropath

I can't paint infantry sized miniatures for shit.

Just applying grey metallics to this 1996 finecast Kharn. Leadbelcher on, ready to wash in a couple minutes

The skulls look so much shutter than I thought with strong light from my flash on them

It doesn't look good because you're painting everything solid, leaving all the details devoid of depth. Like I told another user, if you're going to have most of your scheme one color, in your case gold, then prime in gold. Use GW's new Retributor spray, paint the rest of the model's silver, bone skin and blood bits and the wash the hell out of it using watered down Agrax Earthshade.

If you want to you can highlight after washing as well but it's not necessary if you're worried about messing it up.

Oh no it isn't going to mostly be gold. I'm painting from the minor details down to save having to worry about getting drybrushed golds and shit all over my reds

Regardless because you have to progress from black your paints are looking thick.

Reaper has a ton of nice models to use for various characters, especially Inquisitorial ones.

Hope I can finish up my Gorechosen tonight then seal them.

Thanks for the replies.

And for Inquisition bits (like insigna), any idea or I have to commit on GS and etched brass ?

Got the Bandersnatch finished now.
I was originally going to do a pattern or something on its back but I've decided I do like the totally white appearance.

fuck, I cant remember the base color for the skin I use for my orks.

You could do with making the transition from the shadow to the white a little smoother, I can see you've tried a sort of spike pattern but I think a gradient would look a lot nicer. A little more glazing on the OSL might be an idea as well, but it's looking better than the last time you posted it.

Nice conversion and decent paintjob, just needs some touchups.

How did you do the gold?

Left marines in a tub of simple green for four days. A bit of the paint still isn't coming off. I'm annoyed. Should I just let them soak in that shit for a month? Will all the paint eventually dissolve?

Will the glue dissolve too because 15 year old me thought it would be fun to give them cool poses that make it harder to paint.

I am also brushing pretty hard. Damn, I love me some THICC PAINT

You're going to need to scrub to get rid of 100% of the paint. Even then some may still remain in cracks. You can soak them for a thousand years and they won't be 100% clean without scrubbing.

Green

Take an old electric toothbrush and one of the soft heads for it and go to town.

>Left marines in a tub of simple green for four days. A bit of the paint still isn't coming off.

Did you scrub them with an old toothbrush when you took them out, or are you just staring at them?

How good idea of using Tamiya cloloured metallics as base for my alpha marines?

Paint the model somewhat complete, gloss varnish and let dry. Go over tattoos with oil based wash, white first and then the color of your choice = profit.

The gloss varnish will not only create greater friction, so to let the oil run swift and steady through all the crooks and crannies in those tattoos, it will also serve as a protection when you "clean up" with thinner on a q-tip.

Then go back with a satin or matte varnish.

it is better to use washes, or better yet, an artificer paint set, and make your own out of the bottle solution.

Tamiya light metallic blue is a good AL base. It's bright, but you can bring it down with Clear Blue or FW clear blue or blue glazes, and the clear green of AL. If you use the other Tamiya metallic blues they are kinda dark.

Scrubbed them with an old toothbrush lol.

Will try that tomorrow, thanks yo. Gotta see if I have any spare electric heads around.

Will do, will do.

Hopefully in two week's time I can get them to the point of repainting where they won't look 100% shitty.

Also, get red primer to do Blood Angels and spray whole thing at once followed by a wash? Or spray with black primer then go over with red paint.

Before I get banter, I am going to be making a light box so I can take pictures that don't look like ass

This is my second mini ever painted, and I went out and got a detail brush and that helped a lot on making it better.
Highlighting is hard as fuck and I really need to get better.
any critique I can get?

and the back

You could always attach the missile pods to the Railgun barrel. But i agree, Railsides are best sides

One guy said its good idea to combine X-13 METALLIC BLUE and X-25 CLEAR GREEN to get something like on pic but more blue

for your second miniature that's pretty good, you seem to be on the right track so just keep doing what you're doing and practice more.

Sure, but that's a very dark blue compared to FW's metallic blue. If you like the look, go ahead. Tamiya has dark metallic blue as well if you want the 40k AL look.

I like it (and I'm glad the moss tutorial worked out for you), but as I know you're intending to do OSL again in future I'll jump in for some critique.

When you're actually taking the colour of the light into account, which you must with OSL, it applies to everything.
I think you would have had a lot more success at portraying your warm lantern light if everything else was tinted by a cold moonlight- bandersnatch, rocks, moss, and our wandering aussie.

I'll keep looking for some better examples, as I know I have seen some, but here's a starter.

Keep practicing, don't neglect the green gaiters, base your models.

Good work user.

>Scrubbed them with an old toothbrush lol.

The little wands women use for mascara (pic related) are great for getting in tight spaces that toothbrushes have a problem with. This seems to be more prevalent on plastic models,

>Also, get red primer to do Blood Angels and spray whole thing at once followed by a wash? Or spray with black primer then go over with red paint.

Red over black is going to be a real challenge - probably unnecessarily so, unless you like your Blood Angels unnaturally dark. Red primer would be better, and white primer is my personal favourite.

Well after trying the advice I got the other day it looks like the first pic in here. I realized maybe the problem here is the entire mace is a single color and it looks like a blob with no definition. So I went into a 9000-hour-in-paint rampage to design some variations on the mace colors. I think this is the key to make it look good, what do you think?

Lower left looks the coolest to me, although its still lacking something... Let me think, ill come back to ya

>Why prime in black anymore?

To do a zenithal combination prime.
As a one-size-fits-most primer so you're not upfront buying a whole bunch of rattlecans.
If you're careful you can skip darklining.
To keep a collection consistent.
To avoid giving your models an overall tint of the coloured primer.

You do you, as long as you're not fucking up no way is wrong.

I think just making the rings connecting the spikes black and leaving the spikes coppery in their entirety. So like top right, but not putting the iron in the groove under the spike.

>To do a zenithal combination prime.

Black won't be your only primer in a zenithal.

>As a one-size-fits-most primer so you're not upfront buying a whole bunch of rattlecans.

Then use grey.

>If you're careful you can skip darklining.

That's a dumb reason and is slower than just doing actual lining. At best, you have to be careful with your basecoat and layer, at worst, you have to be careful with dozens of blends just because you want to preserve your dumb primer blackline instead of just using an easy ink or wash.

>To keep a collection consistent.

So to perpetuate your original mistake.

>To avoid giving your models an overall tint of the coloured primer.

Grey primer.

I'm not even him but you're retarded and have yet to give one good reason for black primer. Use it if you want but don't try to pretend it's not trash and you only use it to stay trash.

We're just going to disagree on this my dude. I see people produce incredible work off straight black, off zenithals, off grey and off coloured undercoats, and these people don't use one way of priming all the time.

I'm sorry you're upset about other people doing things that don't affect you.

why bother with zenithal highlighting in the first place? It rarely looks good

Use mechanicus standard grey or dawnstone for the highlights. Eshin grey won't stand out enough and it will just look primed.

hey peers what do you think about my alpha (soviet type insurgency) chosen? any tip will be apreciated, for the record i posted this in warhammer general too

You could see if the new Deathwatch kits have something useful.

what makes it soviet?

No washes?

In OPs pic they used a leadbelcher base and washed it, no reason not to use something brighter though. Wash naturally becoems thinner on edges and raised surfaces so it maintains a better highlight than straight metallic paint will making it a better choice. What would you even highlight metallic blue with?

Your paint is way too thick dude, you're killing a lot of the detail on the model.

The silver is painted over bone and horn

No washes to add shade

No highlights

You just need more practice

>thick paint obscuring details
>no recess washes, layers, or highlights
>paint colors bleeding into other details
>visible basecoat under paint in several areas

it's pretty bad, really. keep on practicing

Mb he used "star" paint from Russian (soviet) company? Its very cheap and not good as cytadel paints

Best laugh i've had in days, thank you

Paint could use thinning, base paints like leadbelcher and semtex green/stegadick green have high pixel count so go for a dilute two coats. a wash would be good nuln oil or agrax should cover all bases. Maybe some white/cream on the horn and jewel up that middle stone.

Slow going, been too busy to paint the last couple of days.

Still tons to do, probably won't finish until the end of the weekend I'm guessing

o yea i forgot, every chosen has a piece of red clothing, but the cultists are painted red and im working on a che guevara banner for them, its bad but im experimenting withit yet

>im working on a che guevara banner for them

Don't... don't do this

Is that his actual head?

PUT THE HOOD BACK ON JESUS FUCK!

i intent to make it cheese and stupid,che guevara face, but something like the champion face on black, or maybe a red flag with a chaos star painted in yellowand a chainsaw and a bolter or something like that