WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

Nice stealthsuit, user

Aaaand forgot pic

Some whit dots or lines on the blood vials to make them shiny and clean up the spots where the metal bled onto the white

>2592x4608

fuck off

No u

Get a better connection, shitlord.

twenty posts in and its straight to shitposting
get it together /wip/, i'm dissapointed.

A wash you say? The ones I found were either drybrushed (as in the pic) or airbrushed. Looks like there are more interesting options to consider with Pentart Metallic Teal.

how are we going on this, wip? i've nearly finished the boxed game one.

Has anyone ever added joints to a model? Not a magnet, but like action figure joints.

I have access to a 3D printer and files for replacement ball / swivel joints for toys. I figure I could scale them and use them in place of magnets (for posing, not swapping)

I was planning on trying it on a knight I never put together. I don't know how well a filament joint will hold up though

Sheer size makes it hard to judge it as a miniature, makes it look like a splotchy hackjob an dis suspect you lighting is making the medical displays appear overbright.

Anyways, his mask and chest armour need stringer division to keep from visually blurring together

Thin cable is hard to tell if it's highlighted or has splotches form the apron

White in general can use a layer/glaze to even out.

Not sold on the hair either, you're alsready heavy on grown/gold

I don't have a problem with my internet, I have a problem with a shitty picture that's so big and so zoomed in, that I can't even see it on my fucking screen.

Resize your images you fucking twat.

I guess ill try this, What paint would be best for this basecoat green? (Warboss, Caliban, Waaagh flesh, etc

Meaning it's Pentars with a blue wash on top.

Personally I'd use white and wash green.

>Nice stealthsuit, user

Where? I don't see any stealthsuit.

Is the result for that even good?
Literally white, green wash, white dot?

Resize yours bigger. Your tiny image offends and assblasts me, like your grossly overblown, post-assault style PTSD.

You don't always need the white dot as the wash will be thinner in the centre and pool at the edges.

It's good enough for me, but I'm the lazy sort that's do that, or solid colour with a dot of gloss varnish as gems/eyes/lenses

People are gonna keep doing it no matter how much you shit up the thread throwing your bitch fit. You clearly understand that you can see the image size before clicking on it. Maybe just stop clicking on it.

Started on one of the many swamp monsters that I need to get painted.
Debating on adding pupils, probably won't though as I think it'll take away from the eyes.

Bloodaxe Runtherda basically done. Need to grab some squig orange for the squig's highlights and a blue glaze for the ball on the prodder and I can be done with it.

>those eyes

"HYUCK HYUCK HYUCK"

>Maybe just stop clicking on it

If your photography is so retarded that people basically have to look at the thumbnail and avoid enlarging it, then maybe you should change your photography? Not opening images defeats the entire purpose of this thread. Do you think people post their photos to have people NOT open them?

Still working on this big boy
Should I paint the central prism's structure Black?

That camo really works.

Did you already glue in the central prism, can't tell it the case is actually glued on.

Cause the gem'd it'd benefit from a gloss coat or a more saturated red.

i have only basecoated the prisms

I'm not the one posting it, and I'm not saying it's acceptable. What I'm saying is that this has been going on forever, and no amount of complaining has ever had any impact on it.

Adding your complaining on top of the thousand others who have come before you isn't going to help any more than theirs did, so you might as well just leave it alone because the only thing you're accomplishing is adding one more shit fit on top of all the others in these threads, and we don't need it.

And I'm not the one complaining about it.

People like you need to be dragged out in the street and shot. Not only are you guilty of the same shit you are complaining about, but you're advocating the stupidest, most non-effective form of change of all: doing nothing. You are easily the most worthless faggot in this thread, even more worthless than the whiners and the dumb newfags posting shit photos.

People are gonna shit on the floor anyway so why bother telling them not to.

Thanks! I want to do camo in theme with all the orc clans. red, blue, yellow, and grey/black for Goffs, I guess?

So I'd been wanting a second ministorum priest, and I had just read the new rules from Imperial Agents that allowed priests to take Eviscerators - massive, two-handed chainswords capable of cutting tanks in half.

And I'd always thought of priests as these sort of Imperial Rock Stars that would encourage the men and women of the Imperium to achieve the impossible with music.

And...uh...

Well, I kinda got carried away with the idea. This took me about two weeks to put together.

Tomorrow I start painting him.

Cutting myself on all this edge.
Stay mad, champ :)

That guy's photo was like 1 MB. Higher than it needed to be, but not that bad. What I hate more than abnormally large photos (which should get resized by your browser anyway) are low quality JPEGs that still take up 5-8 MB.

Thin body
Thin paints
Sculpted abs
Sculpted greenstuff

>the only thing you're accomplishing is adding one more shit fit on top of all the others in these threads, and we don't need it.

The irony.

pretty baller

That's really cool.

Plugging away at these.

Very pretty
Enjoy brining death to the enemies of the emperor my compatriot

What varnish do you guys use?I've been using vallejo matt varnish but it's a ballache since im brushing it on and it doesnt even seem to protect the paint that well - i ran my nail along a flat surface and the paint came away, even after two coats

>engage jew
>contact forgeworld
>yo my knight didnt come with the shoulder

I got a replacement once when I explained that my rabbit had snaffled a small part (it was the window brace on a cockpit) and they had a good laugh and sent me the bit

when i bought a krieg plattoon and got 2x command squads and 3x infantry instead of 1 and 4, they apologized and just sent me the infantry squad, and thats like 100 AUD

Yeah forgeworld's real good like that. I bought a warhound, it was messed up so they sent me the whole order again (weapons and some techpriests as well) and when that was still messed up they sent me another warhound. So now I have three warhounds. two of which are a bit of a mess but still.

Oh, you're crappy-warhound-user?

I heard that someone on the moulding line was too liberal with the release agent. How'd Warhound No. 3 come out?

Those look awesome.Can I ask where you got the long coat legs and those backpacks?

It's much better, all the detail that should be there is present. There's still quite a few problems but I can actually fix them this time with sanding, filing and green stuff. It's most noticeable on the interior details such as the consoles, on the first two they were a messy blob but now they're nice and defined.

looks like victoria lamb to me?

Thank you. Legs are Victoria Lamb, Backpacks are home made.

and quoted the wrong person, best of luck with those warhounds.

I need suggestions for inexpensive paints that aren't bad. Bonus points for something I can buy at a storefront.

All the good paints are expensive. The cheapest ones I can think of are Warcolour. They are about 66% of the price of the other paints like Vallejo, Reaper, GW, etc.

The Warhound is extremely old. FW's very, very old models always have tons of problems, it's really annoying.

Vallejo matte is fucking shit as a brush on, I know what you're talking about. It's only good for airbrushing. Use Army Painter anti-shine dropper bottle for brush on, and their rattle can for spraying. Vallejo takes 48 hours minimum to dry, and can take up to 2 weeks to cure because it's mixed with polyurethane resin. And even then I find you can scratch it quite easily if you're very forceful. It seems like it doesn't take that long to dry, but it really does take a while until it stops being tacky, and even after that it's kind of a damp smooth feeling. That, combined with Vallejo's FAQ/videos tells me it really does have a very long drying time.

I like Army Painter's matte because it actually FEELS matte instead of smooth. Gives a nice matte texture to rub your finger on. I'm sure you can scratch it off if you tried, but I only do one or two coats and haven't had problems with chipping and it will never flake like Vallejo's because it doesn't form a thick shell.

They don't have to be good necessarily. Just not bad

All the cheap ones are bad because they aren't meant for miniatures. They are cheap because their pigments aren't finely ground or found in high concentration, leading to shitty paintjobs on small objects.

I use Testors Dullcote in the small rattle cans. They can be a little pricey, I usually get them with a coupon at whatever craftstore is in your area. Dullcote drys SUPER fast and doesn't have much of an offensive odor, I can usually spray something and immediately take it inside, whereas other clear coat products will stink up the whole house. I've had no issues with paint chipping or damage with Dullcote either. After it cures it feels really solid, I've used it on all of my vehicles with great results.

Picked up cork today at the departmebt store and made the base for my Greyfax. Turned out pretty well, though I think in hindsight that I should've used a bigger piece of cork.

Why do they only sell those cork sheets in like 1m x 0.5m as the smallest size, that shit is going to last me years.

Testor's is lacquer, that's why it's so durable and expensive. No idea how they eliminated the smell though. Definitely the best rattle varnish out there, but I use something else because it's cheaper and just as nice looking (but is crappy acrylic and not lacquer).

make some terrain, son. also, where do you buy sheets of cork? hardware stores?

It's not really a sliding scale. Paints designed for miniatures, and some fine art acrylics (not student acrylics) are suitable for miniatures because their pigment is finer, high quality and they have lots of it. They cost more because of this.

There are then basically all cheaper acrylics, which will cause you problems due to their coarser-ground, cheaper pigments and low pigment content.

You spend a lot on these little toys to then ruin them by trying to save a few pennies on bad paint, I really can't recommend it.

Hardware stores have it as cork paneling for the inside of shelves and stuff. Art stores also have it for bulletin boards, picture frames, etc.

Yeah, they had them in giant sizes by the window stuff. No idea what cork is used for when sealing windows but whatever.

Anybody have any ideas for an alternate Thousand Sons (post heresy) color scheme? This is hard to explain, I'd still like to go with blue and gold, but maybe different shades than usual?

I mean, I still want them to be recognizable as Thousand Sons, but just something a little different. Perhaps more of an emphasis on yellow? Yellow is the primary color for my Daemons of Tzeentch so they'd at least match in that case, but I don't want too much yellow...

Can anyone make enough sense of my ramblings to help me out?

Not sure how to change it but also keep it mostly the same. Considered that version of layering Guilliman Blue and that green glaze over Runefang Silver? Gives it a nice metallic look. I'm sure somebody can post the picture of it if you haven't seen it.

I have not seen it, that would be awesome.

Play with your colours.

This scheme has demonstrated that green is nice as an accent, so you can work that in in a few places. You can also play with gold/yellow to go for a warmer or colder tone, dependent on if you use say a flesh tone to shade gold vs. a purple, and you can use purple in the shades of yellow as well.

The new GW KSons paints are also further teal or turquoise than this sky / ultramarines blue, so there'sa variation to be had there as well. Blue can be made colder to contrast a warm gold by adding greys and whites for highlights, or again, purple in the shadows.

Highlights don't have to be pure value contrast, you can work with tone as well.

the Wrath of Magnus has several alternate schemes

Turns out I actually have it saved myself.

I'm just getting started and I wanted to pick up a brush set. Is there a recommended set with every brush I would need out there on amazon or something?

I was looking at a few but I didn't know if they were suitable

something like this would probably be a good idea, you get a bit of everything
ebay.com.au/itm/like/322334058096?lpid=107&chn=ps

Freehand ALL the things!

I really like the new 1k sons just started on mine

the dread is WIP

That's really impressive. Honestly it is.

I don't like freehand, but that's damn nice.

So much infantry. Just finished some more Fire Warriors and a last Gue'vesa, bout to start up on this Shaper. Any suggestions for how to make his trophies not clash with his albino scheme?

Alright, thanks for letting me know before I bought some shit stew at walmart or something. Guess being a jew doesn't work out all the time

See if your local art store has Princeton Selects. I have both those as well as Kolinsky Sables....and honestly I like the synthetic Princetons better

amazon.com/gp/product/B00NI39OSU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3S4K6706NXVS7
Would something like this get me by?

Wow man, that's a ton. This looks actually amazing, they look pretty terrifying right now.
Got a lot more work to do with em but them lenses bring em nicely together
Honestly feels like cheating

Does anyone also have any basing suggestions?

should I do a meme pattern on the engine block trim or not?

Metal af, brother.

I can't tell if I like the helmets or not, they seem slightly too big. But I also like the aesthetic of the carapace armour and flowing greatcoats. Send help.

>I can't tell if I like the helmets or not, they seem slightly too big.
I think it's that the cadian models don't have a neck/balljoint like the skitarii or space marine models do. they are just flat in the back, like the scout kits.
So if you don't cut off the balljoint they're sitting a bit higher than a regular cadian head would.

In this case it's not as noticeable as in other conversions I've seen though.
These models look pretty good.

The grinding tip on the dremel (the thinner one shaped like a pencil, not the fatter incense cone one) is perfect shape to grind out new slots for them. Thats what i used to get fire warrior heads on to monopose cadians.

Is Rhinox Hide too dark to shade Steel Legion Drab with? I did a few tries and it looks alright.

Ah, that's what it is. Thanks user. They still look great though, paintjob included.

...Now I want to do the Istvaan V bases.

Question though: When doing bases like this, can you superglue your models on just fine, or is there an extra step?