WIP thread: NOBODY ELSE MADE ONE edition

Legitimate 6+ save/10

some more from the box

should I gloss coat then matte coat or just matte coat?

If you were thinking of doing gloss coat for extra protection you can get the same effect by just spraying matte coat one or two more times. Gloss isn't magically more protective than matte, it's the same chemical in both cans except with a matting agent in matte varnish. Only reason it's more protective is because it tends to spray thicker.

Here is the end result of the masking tape brothers.

I got these two for a an absolute steal from what I assume was a kid owner, drenched in superglue, although to his credit the turrets and sponsons move.

Initial stages of weathering are done, although I'll probably look at this again after work to see if there's anything I've missed with fresh eyes.

Next stage, Gloss varnish to allow for further weathering.

>WIP thread: NOBODY ELSE MADE ONE edition
GOODNESS GOSH YOU ARE A BIG DUMB

Mate you're like six hours too late to comment. The threads were made at almost the exact same time.

AND YET ONE OF THEM HAS A WHOLE BUNCH MORE POSTS

Is there a reason behind this autistic fit, or did you just want to act like a retard after waking up.

I just hate the fact that the LR execs have Gets Hot and the spess marine execs don't. Utter bullshit.

Working on a Renegade Leman Russ. Not done yet though

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Will never not post

Metal/plastic rods works.

But if it was me, id take those termie staves and cut them, pin them and glue them fit to a regular arm. Works just as good!

I like the writing

>simulated lines of script not even squiggly
so fucking triggered, FIX IT

Those look good

Past week I posted about a paint scheme xeno-like, highlighting to yellow, but consensus was generally bad, so I redone that in a more classic way. Thougts/suggestions? Only the skin is done, all the rest (carapace, weapons, details etc) has yet to be done

...

Jumpy Kabalite is the scheme test dummy. Having lots of fun haven't painted in years lots more to do but he's coming along.

Looks really good. Way better than my Nidds.

That thing is gorgeous well done so far friendo.

the red and blue really look nice, its just those carapace transitions are HARSH. Consider another intermediate blue, and a lighter hand with the lightest blue.

built a new lightbox and then realised i dont have any lamps

I think i need some white light lamps

that's pretty cute, I like it

and last one

thanks, he eats mostly skinks and temple guards

>tfw you will never be a great unclean one

working on oldschool style stormcasts. knight questor is almost done and then i can start on his bret squire conversion.

You have any idea for arms/leg alternatives to make the renegade models into plague zombies? Saw Mantic but its Mantic

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Very WIP Marneus Calgar conversion i'm working on.
waiting on the actual marneus model my friend bought me to add some minor parts details from it to this model.
not completely sold on his fists, still need a lot of work. and im tossing up scrapping most of them and just using wire sorrounded by guitar strings and rods to imitate his bionic arms. also not sure what to do with the helmet/head. want it to be a helmet, scared to cut the head out of this, might use this helmet but paint a red glow effect on the right eye to make it look like his bionic eye. thoughts??

happy australia day too m8s!

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fuck forgot pic lol

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Looks cool, are you gonna put bolters on the fists?

>poorly painted
Weird variations in skin tone aside, I've seen much worse than those. They're decent enough for tabletop quality, anyway.

was halfassedly going for this

bannerbearer arms with khemri bits like in your picture could work.
Or buy some doodads from crocodile games' wargods of aegyptus and use that instead of the khemri stuff. Tombkings are getting harder to find these days i figure.

Might just be me but the color of the tank made the line funny to me.

like the plasma turret on this one. looks neat.

Guys, please help. I suck massive ass at painting faces...I followed Duncan's recipe.
2 thin coats of Bugmans, Kislev, Reikland Fleshshade, and Flayed One Flesh. How do I into faces?

someone post the makeup tutorial gif

Any suggestions for how to do properly ornate Sternguard with Mk3 or Mk4 armor?

yeah i will be, i'll probably just cut the bolters off the actual model, maybe. or i'll try and make some that don't look absolute shit. I just want to get some fists done first to the point I'm satisfied before i worry about the guns

You're supposed to concentrate the highlights towards the most prominent details on the face, not towards the everything.

The real issue here is you use WAYYYY too much flayed one flesh. That's supposed to be a tiny extreme highlight.

If you're a beginner you should simplify things. Just do bugman's as an undercoat, get a solid complete coat of kislev and shade it. You can stop here. Dont even do the eyes. just leave them shadowed. If you do want to highlight then a baby step is to highlight with the Kislev flesh again. That way if you all to much it won't be as obvious.

But really, way, way, way less FOF.

>with Mk3 or Mk4 armor?
It's probably easier to go for Mk IV armour, since that'll give you access to a wide range of Forge World kits (like the Mk IV parts in the Red Scorpions Honour Guard kit). Mk III, not so much, unless you collect one of the handful of First Founding Chapters/Legions that got Horus Heresy upgrades in that Mark.

it looks like the pain might be on a little too thick in general. aim more for an even skin tone and then do the layering from there, it looks like you're doing highlights straight over your base coat with no intermediary layer, like cadian fleshtone.

I'm curious how womens' minis look when it's time to paint faces, if they're any better on average or the same.

Malifaux related progress for today

Awesome

found this on the net, how nice is it but

I can do the glowing eyes just fine. I do it on my GK all the time. I wouldn't dare try pupils, though. It actually looks "better" with more of the FoF, but so far I just gave everything another thin coat of Kislev to restart.

>too thick
This shit's already like water. I don't know how thin it should be if it's almost like water. And please don't use the "milk consistency" analogy. I just can't grasp it for whatever reason. As for no Cadian Fleshtone, the Kislev Flesh is the substitute for it. I followed Duncan's video recipe. Bugmans>Kislev>Reikland>Flayed one.

you can try to bring the colours together a bit with a reikland wash over those highlights, but I reckon it's still a bit bright. If i'm trying to do some highlights on a face and I cant trust thinned paint to go where i want it, sometimes i do a sneaky little drybrush on the cheeks and stuff since you have a lot more control over how it builds up.

Time to make some Rhino conversions.

Not especially different. Painting 1:1 faces ain't exactly going to give you the skills and know-how necessary to paint 1:48 faces.

Those colours make me want to go and hire a mariachi band for some reason.

I generally go for somewhere between a 2:1 or 3:1 paint-water ratio when it comes to thinning most paints (exact amount depends on the type of paint). The paint should feel more fluid when you move it around with a brush on your palette, but not to the point where it starts looking transparent or blotchy, or where the consistency feels closer to water than paint.

It's a good idea to take some pieces of sprue from a plastic kit and test on there, just to get the consistency right.

>>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
>mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

Folder link unavailable
The folder link you are trying to access is no longer available. This could be due to the following reasons...

I'm trying to adapt some of what's in 's picture. What should I do from here? You can see just how thin my coats are by looking at the right shoulder. That's about 2 layers of Mournfang Brown over black.

>tfw trying to figure out how a model piece can have mould lines across 3 axes

Oh my fucking god...it's so much fucking worse on camera...It looks half decent in person...

Well, the average woman will have spent more time learning about makeup.
Contouring is basically faking light and shadow on your face to change the bone structure of your face.
Which is exactly what you do when you paint a miniature. You try to fake how light falls on a smaller object, but the same principles apply.

Which is why the advice to have a look at makeup tutorials comes up quite frequently.
The knowledge is transferrable.

>dr doom transitions to become a woman and a grandmother.jpg

three part mould obviously.

3+ part mold, or non-linear parting line. Got a picture?

It's not like most women are particularly great at putting on makeup either.

>haha what kind of idiot cuts open their own fingers with their hobby knife
>even the one time I actually hurt myself it was quite shallow and I learned my lesson
>only an idiot would cut himself deeply, or more than once
>I don't need to scrape away on this base, I'm bracing while pushing forward at the same time so I'll surely stop the knife if I slip
>poke myself in thumb

Fuck everything.

>The knowledge is transferrable.
Sure, but without actual miniature painting chops not much will come of it.

There is that, too.

Recast.

Mk III is too brutal and iconic. Mk IV "fits" more. The helmet and shoulders from Mk III are fine to mix in though and give a very obvious ancient look. Using just the chest, or just the legs is also done by Forge World in 40K for Salamanders and Astral Claws and looks alright. Mk IV is the easiest to mix and make look good.

love your work, dude

I don't have a picture but it's a leg with a line that runs down the centre of the leg as you would expect but then another one that runs around the footprint.

The foot mold line isn't a mold line it's flash.

>trimming the crotchplate of a Warhound Titan
>gee this piece is so fumbly (my hands were cold as shit since I was doing it outside in winter) better scrape towards to get more force
>get the force I needed and cut through the last big piece of resin flawlessly
>got too much force
>it keeps going
>fuck it's in my thumb
It hurts to think about it. The worst part wasn't the fact I nearly hospitalized myself, it's that I got blood all over the fucking kit

'ere ya go.

>I'll just paint up some Sons of Malice, they have a white and black quartered color scheme but how hard can it b-

I have made a terrible mistake. I tried the "paint gray then lighter and lighter coats" method to shit results, now I guess I might try just painting it all white and doing the recesses with washes? hoo dun this

I want to make a few grates as things to stick on walls randomly, like on Forge/Hive Worlds as exhaust or sewer exits - how do these look? The rim is rounded, can't really tell from the picture.

No, it's unmistakeably a mould line.

Black on white, you'll be alright.

White on black? You're fucked.

>Implying I'll be able to pull off anything remotely close to this on a much smaller scale mini(That's a much bigger bust-miniature, I believe.) when is my situation

What do I do? Rekiland flesh shade the cheeks, add more kislev at the bottom of the lips, and draw triangles on her cheeks with Flayed One Flesh?

An addendum.

I use astronomican grey as a basecoat, then mix a bunch of white into it to bring it closer to pure white and do it again. Then highlight with pure white.

You practice, you take any spare heads you can get your hands on and drill that technique until you can make anything with a face look like a lady. Even Carnifex. Especially Carnifex!

Don't worry until you cut the corner of your thumb off with a box cutter. But also don't do that because it hurts.

>flash without mold line
user, how do you think flash occurs?

It's when the material seeps out between the mo-

Chaplain conversion wip.
Thoughts?

speaks to a greater social narrative

Those are bolters.