WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

>but I'm not sure if they look too large.
The inqusitor is a full head taller than everybody else anyway
I think both look fine.
The helmeted one looks pretty good imo.

helmet's about as good a scale as you'll get, I think

not really a surprise considering the rest of her armour

I want to do some more scratchbuilding terrain, shit like hills, brick walls, wells, etc. what is the easiest material to work with if i wanted to cut rough stone bricks? some kind of foam?

What kit is that from?

>Helmet looks fine
Huh, guess I really don't have an eye for this. Least I didn't buy that oyumaru and milliput for nothing now.

Anyway, I mocked up the Skits heads.
Just in terms of getting the fucking things on there, they don't really fit to well; I think they'd fit much better however given some easy work (spike in the center of gorget, the ball on the bottom of the Skit head, and the neck well in particular all need to be shaved down).
What do y'all think? Personally, I actually kinda like the look of both of these.

The plastic head with the helmet I mean

>What kit is that helmet from?
SoB Immolator - both the helmeted and bare heads are supposed to be for the turret gunner. They're pretty okay for how old they are, but they still have a lot of the same problems that a lot of older GW models have (mold slippage/heavy moldlines, less detail, etc).

It is a really nice kit though. Makes some nice models.

>Huh, guess I really don't have an eye for this
don't forget that on the sprue you haven't put the shoulderpad on there yet.
Her torso looks less bulky than it will be once you assembled her.

I guess the skitarii helmets could work too, would be a shame to cut down the gorget though.
And if you are really thinking about using her as Cannoness the Immolator helmet is a no-brainer.
Personally I like the sleeker look better too.
The Skitarii heads have loads of detail that'll make her look a bit cluttered I think.

Thanks

Id wager florist foam might work well. Dont know how you'd seal it though, seeing how pourous it is.

>And if you are really thinking about using her as Cannoness the Immolator helmet is a no-brainer.
My thought's exactly. I'm tempted to try to make a kitbash Canoness Veridyan out of her. At least then the model might actually see the table. She already has the Power Sword, all I'd need to do would be swap her Crossbolter for a Bolt Pistol.

not a fan

Having two sets of tubes right next to each other (once you trim the neck/gorget) would look quite strange

Over 20 minutes in CS7, this shit is baller as hell

Worked on more of my Neophytes. Finished up their trousers, boots, and shin guard things. Just gotta glue on their arms, finish their backs, and then do their faces.

>cut rough stone bricks
Can you explain that?
Do you want to make bricks to build something with or add brick texture to something or did you just say brick because you meant massive pieces of rock?
Blue Hardfoam is easy to cut and you can stamp texture into it with a stone or a piece of crumbled aluminium foil.

here's another example where somebody cut bricks and uses those instead.

That's pretty fucking sexy user. If I had the parts and played Chaos, I'd probably try gunning for that.

Does Valkia have a 40k equivalent? If not, who's closest? Lotara Sarrin?

>looks good and is thematically appropriate to the rest of her gear
>only way to get that helmet is to buy an immolator
why'd you have to take that photo, man

>why'd you have to take that photo, man
Because the Immolator kit is pretty nice and you should have one if you plan to make a Canoness out of Greyfax anyway?

...

Not sure how I feel about the gaiters being a different color than the boots, especially in those specific colors. It makes them seem like they're wearing ankle armor with loafers.

Other than that, they look pretty good. You might want to calm down a tad with the Agrax or go over some of the fabric again to brighten it up. It looks very dark and dirty.

You forget to take off your trip there, buddy?

not making a cannoness, don't have or plan on making an SoB army, I just like helmets

yup.

these are both great ideas. i had the second picture in mind so I could built from scratch some things like wells with big bricks. what material is the first picture? is it durable enough for wargaming?

also does anyone recognise what company makes this card castle set thing, I found it in a bag and i'd like to look it up.

Polystyrene. MWG has a bunch of videos on using it to build terrain. This one should be more what you're looking for.

youtube.com/watch?v=Tda5F43BZGA

I thought that was supposed to be ankle armor. You know, protect the joints.

I'm thinking of doing an edge highlight over the clothing folds in order to brighten things up. Think that will work?

>what material is the first picture? is it durable enough for wargaming?
It's hardfoam you can get from any diy store. Normally used for insulation but a staple of miniature wargaming.
It should hold up reasonably well to regular use if you give it a protective coating of pva before painting.

If you want something near indetructible you could look up 1:50 textured plastic sheets used for railroad models and the like. they are usually quite a bit more expensive.
Antenociti has a selection of what I mean, to give you an idea.

I really like both of them, but these guys are right in that it could be a little too cluttered. It depends on the sort of feel you're going for the model. If she's girded for all-out war, the Vanguard Alpha head would be my pic. If the armour is supposed to be more stylised and ceremonial, the SoB Immolator helmet works great. The hood provided by the Vanguard gives it a sleeker look.

>hardfoam
if we're using technical terms it's "extruded polystyrene", commonly sold under the name of Foamular

>N7 scions

It's a good thing I'd already started doing my guys in gunmetal grey before I got this idea.

Once you've done the wash, you can brighten up the 'dirty' parts with another layer of whatever it is that was made dirty

Call me a retard, but this feels like it would potentially just . . . undo the work the wash has done. I know that can't be right because Dunc-senpai advises this all the time, but are there any ways to make absolutely sure this doesn't happen? Guessing making sure the second layer of paint has been thinned a bit more than the first might do.

wash is used to get into receded corners and pop out detail a lot more. the edges around a space marine's pauldrons, rib cage of a necron warrior,

the 2nd layer that is talking about is clean up work.

Listen retard; if you don't highlight everything is dull. This is acceptable for some armies but most make it look like they put effort into their appearance like one would when it comes to highlighting metals.

>this feels like it would potentially just . . . undo the work the wash has done.
that's why with the second coat you carefully avoid the recesses that you want shaded

if your paint is running all over the place and being a dick to control either
1:put less paint on your brush
2:use less water

Just leave the wash showing where you want it and paint over the stuff you want brighter.
It's not rocket science.

>not making a cannoness
Ah, I see.
Well, Greyfax is an Ordo Hereticus Inquisitor so you could run her in an Inquisitorial Henchman Warband formation to unlock the ability to take a single squad of SoB without your list being made Unbound. They could in turn could take a dedicated transport Rhino/Immolator.

Just spitballing ideas here.

>I thought that was supposed to be ankle armor. You know, protect the joints.
It can be, it really just depends on how you want to paint it.
Personally, I think the color of the armor on yours clashes a little bit too much with the color of the boots to work though. See pic related; you can barely notice that the boots and the ankle armor are different colors.

>Think that will work?
Probably. That's usually the standard fare for highlighing cloth. Basecoat everything, do a wash in the recesses, then highlight the raised portions. Gets you a good three color gradient and the illusion of depth and shadow.

>It depends on the sort of feel you're going for the model.
This. I'm not really sure myself what I'm going for with her.
I like both the idea of a regular Canoness for my SoB and a half-Ecclesiarchy, half-Mechanicus Inquisitor for when I field both those armies together.

Plus, I like the idea of an taller female Skitarii Alpha who don't need no HQ choice mixed in with all regular Troops. No fucking clue how I'd fluff that tho, especially considering her model is full of non-Mechanicum shit.

I could also just build the immolator as a pimped out inquisitorial rhino/razorback and take that as a FA slot in my marine army. Seems strange they didn't include the immolator in the castellan detachment.

The fact that I'm thinking about it worries me. $50 isn't the most I've spent on a single model conversion.

What adhesive does Veeky Forums use for its plastic models? Superglue is too messy and leaves white stains on my models, and plastic cement never seems to solidify well for small components (like a bolter on an arm). Am I just doing something wrong?

I'm aware of what highlighting is, yes. Dullness wasn't the problem I was asking about so much as the original colour coming out too strongly once a wash has already been applied. Usually I coat, wash, then highlight with a slightly different shade to draw attention to the contrast between the washed areas and the highlights.

Clean up work makes more sense. Thanks, frienderino.

And two more lads hopped in while I was posting. Cheers guys, advice makes more sense now, derp moment over.

If you want to Mechanicumise her, scrape off the I for starters, unless you want her balling around as an Ordo Machinum inquisitor or whatever they're called. I would consider a distinctly Martian colour scheme alongside halving the skulls on her armour in black and white to give her that distinctive look without cobbling too many new bitz onto her. If you really hate yourself you could freehand a gear design around the little skull on her gorget, because that's the only skull that's embedded in a flat surface you could paint around.

Canoness would be an amazing model too though. Either way, I would be so impressed if somebody fielded a good Greyfax conversion against me.

You could try one of these.

Alternatively wait 9 months and hope for plastic sisters with a bunch of helmets on the sprue after Age of Emperor releases.

how pliable and durable is regular shitty expanded-poly foam? if i do a coat of pva and then paint it, will it be fairly durable? is there any way to hide the texture of it?

They actually sell different grades of that foam with varying levels of expansion and thus hardness.

If you have any styrofoam terrain, I highly doubt it's going to be any more flimsy than that.

>the paint winds up flowing into the tiny recesses anyways and ruins the shading from the wash.
You have too much paint on your brush. If you can't control the paint coming off, you've got too much.

>get newsletter
>see this
>think it's neat, maybe the jump packs come separately
>go to webstore
>shitty 90s dialup pictures and no pics of unpainted models
>says assembly required
>doesn't tell you in how many parts it comes

Seriously, warlord has got to have the most shitty professional mainstream webstore.
Wyrd won't even post anything but the render, but at least the images are big enough to see the fucking models.

I generally use plastic glue whenever possible. It's generally easy enough, but sometimes you have to press and hold the bits together for a little while to get them to actually stick. It can be pretty annoying if the bits fit together finicky or are fragile.

Superglue is nice for glueing fragile bits together since it dries really fast, but it's weaker over time. Eventually it'll get brittle and break. Great for gluing painted bits together though if you sub-assembled your model.

Never used plastic cement (unless thats just another word for plastic glue)

Does dipping still work? I just want to prime, paint the metal and bolter bits, and dip and shake models at a time. Also, would post dip shaking work better if I attached the dipped models to a vibration device?

Yes. No.

I recommend just brushing army painter tone on the model thickly as it's about as fast and less work than shaking.

Yeah, it's just plastic glue. How long do you usually hold together your pieces for them to stick. I've held marine hands onto the arms for whole minutes, only to have them slough off when putting the arm onto the body.

Sounds like you might be using too much glue then.

Just apply a bit onto the surface you want to glue and wait for a second until the plastic softened a bit.
Then press them together.
Should stay in shape unless you are gluing something really big or heavy. In that case just put something underneath or lay the model down in a way that it can dry undisturbed by gravity.

Hmmm. I'll be sure to decrease the amount of glue I use then.

As you can see, I'm quite generous.

Use a gel superglue and put less on the model.

If you want to solidify the two pieces you need plastic glue though. Good super glue can make bonds stronger than plastic, but it can still be broken if twisted at the right angle. Plastic glue literally welds the pieces together.

Jesus Christ.

>puts way too much glue on the model
>complains when it seeps out and leaves residue on everything

Why. You are going to have even worse problems if you do this shit with non-super glues. Instead of having white residue you're going to have melted plastic.

Use this.

Break out the super fine grit sand paper and sand that shit down, user.

That's clearly what he's got in the background.

JUST PUT LESS GLUE ON THE MODEL
THAT WAY IT WON'T SEEP OUT OF THE CONNECTING AREA
???

You might be using too much plastic glue.
Plastic glue works by melting the bits together, and if you put enough on at once, you just end up melting the whole surface. The plastic will turn gummy and just come off.

The only other thing I imagine might of happened is if your glue is expired. What brand are you using? Citadel, Revell, etc?

Christ I've never, ever needed more than the slightest dab of this
glue

Testor, freshly bought. The. tumours you bear witness to are the result of a slippery slope-- too much plastic glue (although I didnt know at the time), which then falls apart and becomes unsalvagable without copious superglue.

Im really worried for the painting.

So, I made the slight mistake of spray painting my base coat in slightly too cold weather, and now there are some shiny spots on my model. Will this effect the final product much? Or will further layers just cover that up?

If GW still produces foundation paints I would definitely suggest basing with those.

Only advice I can give if this happens again is to scrape off as much of that melted plastic as you can, then let whole thing sit and dry for while. It *might* be good once you come back to it.

You should be okay when it comes to painting as long as you can scrape off enough of the excess superglue.

Further layers should cover the majority of it up. In any case, always test on sprue before you spray your models.

I don't know how but the outer rim piece that went above the cup decoration on my termies back snapped off and now I can't find it. Not sure if I should keep it like this and just clean it up, or snap it off and see if I can replace it with something from my tactical squads.

Doesn't look broken.
Just incorporate it that way into his personal heraldry.
If you are really bothered by it you could replace it, not worth the hassle imo though.

>the outer rim piece that went above the cup decoration on my termies back snapped off
I have two Karlaens and that has happened to both of them. That damn piece is held on by gossimer and happy thoughts.

Just glue the top half of a reuglar Iron Halo on there and call it a day.

I know it doesn't look too awful. Thou I find it somewhat humorous now as it seems he is balancing a cup on his head. In any case I could possibly try to hollow it out to make it an actual cup, or just cut into it a bit and paint it with a blood texture inside.

Is the Immolator plastic?

Just another example of why people who use plastic glue are idiots.

Ja.
It's listed "Plastic and Resin" on the site but the only "resin" part is the clear window that goes on the turret.

Well it's good to know it's not just me with this issue. Giving it more though I am liking this idea of just putting blood in the cup. Will save it for last though after I get the Thunderhammer, purity seals, cape, face, and Stormbolter done.

Tell me more about this super glue ubermensch you speak of.

All glue is for disdainful mortal plebeians. My models are held together for all eternity by the sheer might of my willpower alone.

On the rare occasions that I deem a lowly mortal worthy of my aid, I will help him assembly his models with a glue made from the hand-scooped bowels of a freshly slain horse felled by my own divine hand.

Neat.
Personally, I use Elmer's glue and Tacky Glue. Works pretty well for me if I do say so myself.

Yeah, that's all well and good, but don't you get seems that way?

Wtf is that plastic body? Are those Celestines retinue?

Are you retarded? Follow the chain up.

If you're in Castellans, take a unit of Dominions and melt shit with 4 meltas that ignore cover once a game.

I honestly didn't realize that was Greyfax because I did follow the chain.

>not having heat vision to melt the seams away

Clark pls

Whoever had the Mancubus mini last thread: How many minis are in the boardgame in total and how is their scale?

using what I learned from you fine folks, heres the chassis for the first of four ruined castle corners. keep an eye out in subsequent threads for progress

...

Looks like great start.

Depends what you mean by "shiny spots". If you were spraying a matte spray it's possible that the matting agent wasn't properly mixed in so there's shiny spots and that's all. If it's bumpy/textured though you're going to want to fix it. Just get a bit of fine grit sandpaper and sand it back.

What's the best way to fix a painting fuckup?

Like "oh shit I wasn't supposed to get paint on this little part what the fuck do I do now" sort of thing

Painting over needs coats to mask depending on the brightness difference and then that might make it stand out from the rest of the touched parts

The gaitors (or the upper parts of their boots) shouldn't have the same color as the body armor.

Besides that they look good so far. Keep going