WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

"it's not not shitposting if you can paint well" edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
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>Painting Videos only
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>DIY Lightbox
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>How to Moldlines
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>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
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>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
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>This planet is ours, witch!
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>Previous Threads:

Other urls found in this thread:

hlj.com/search/go?w=joint
librarium-online.com/forums/hobby-forums/113644-mud-bases.html
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Sisters of Battle use 25mm bases, correct? I just got my not!Veridyan based but I'm not sure if I used the right size. Pictures soon.

R8 muh scourge.
Also, tips for how to paint pale skin.
I didn't quite manage to get a result I wanted, which is a smooth and even coat of pale white skin.

yes, though veridyan is on a 30mm

>Also, tips for how to paint pale skin.
>I didn't quite manage to get a result I wanted, which is a smooth and even coat of pale white skin.

Same as always, thin properly, apply as many coats as necessary.

Does base size actually matter for playing 40K?

Base contact is still used for many rules, so yes.

Somewhat. I doubt anyone will truly throw a fit if you swap 25mm and 30mm around on character models, but it's relevant.

For determining how many minis are in an assault, yes. Bigger base means more assholes can slap your dude.

Can I get some advice on how to magnetize the ball-joints of the Ghostkeel so I have complete range of movement? I'd like to make it so that It's a fully-posable action figure of sorts. A magnet only cover that small area, so maybe soft magnetic strips on the inside of the joints?

>magnets
>not making your mecha figure even more weeaboo
>shamefur dispray
>seppuku is expected
hlj.com/search/go?w=joint

Maybe black or a dark silver for the main body of the gun.

Finished up a few Infinity minis

Oh shit you mean converting the thing with actual model kit joints? Hm. I actually do have a few faulty gundam wing figures but I don't want to scavange them regardless.

I'm not keen on buying more shit though, any other way? I'll keep this as a last resort. Magnets of sorts preferred as I'd want to be able to take it apart as well.

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Those were done some time last week. Finished this qt and a Su jian last night

These look great. Real shame there's literally not a single Infinity player in my area and I'm not even sure if my LGS is stocking it. Every time I see a model from the game it's great.

Those grills are qt3.14s

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Right, got her mostly together at this point. I still need to shave some mold lines, smooth out some remaining sprue nubs, and green stuff the bolt pistol up a little, but she's getting closer and closer.

What'dyall think?

RIP her hat.
I was dremelling her head off and it flew out of my hands, never to be seen again. I had plans for that hat too. Hopefully I find it someday.

Can't say I'm super fond of your bases, they're like the absolute bare bones. At least get some discarded newspapers or miscellaneous trash on there.

Finally my actual WIP

10/10 would let her step on me in the name of the God-Emperor.

You're going to have problems when painting the cape under her right arm.

I like it, but fuck you for posting the headswap last thread.

>no crossbow
Ech.

Otherwise looks great.

Does anyone have any tips or video suggestions for painting jade?

I can't paint for shit plus I lack focus so I have to paint a few things at once and swap as and when I lose interest.

Been painting these today, all still in progress be it minor details, washes, dry brushing or cleaning up slippage and stuff

I'll bring it up at the next Greenskins Against Animal Cruelty meeting.

Good to know her hat didn't die in vain. Thanks anons.

>>no crossbow
If she wasn't supposed to be a counts-as Canoness Veridyan, the crossbolter would have probably stayed on.

Skin user here

Is there any way to actually fill gaps once already painted? I realise its not ideal, but what would be the best method should I decide to give it a try?

I don't know, but that looks amazing.

That's a fair citicism. I intentionally leave most of my bases plain and simple. I dunno; I just prefer bases that aren't real busy.

This and my Nomad bases are basically the furtherest I take it.

Greenstuff and paint over it?

I know some of the newer GW sprays are both primers/undercoats and basecoats all-in-one, but do I need to prime if I use pic related? It's one of the older sprays.

How's it looking? Yay? Nay? Suggestions for a good mud look?

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I know you must've been pretty sick of cutting and arranging lolly sticks but the floor being so sparse kinda ruins the overall trench aesthetic imo.

Looks more like a trip hazard than something to walk on to avoid the tide of shit, piss and rats that inevitably builds up in a trench

As for mud, wall / wood filler works wonders, or so I've read. I believe a Golden Daemon winning DkoK diorama used it (a weapons team pulling a wheeled heavy bolter through it) and was mentioned in one of the FW masterclass books, and the following article on Librarium online.

librarium-online.com/forums/hobby-forums/113644-mud-bases.html

Everything else (including previous pics from previous threads, craters, trench lines, etc) looks fantastic, and I am personally jealous as my gaming circle initially painstaking planned to make our own trench board but few were willing to cough up the cash when the price of the foamboard was discovered.

i like the bases. the bases dont have to be super overdone, if they complement the model then theyre great. nice shading on the pants too

If you were to do heavier/sharper shading it wouldn't stand out as much, but you kinda fucked up by not doing it before painting to be honest.

>Is there any way to actually fill gaps once already painted?
If it were smaller I would suggest using matte varnish to fill the gap with paint. This works well when it's only a tiny gap that you missed before priming it, but... let's face it, that one on his shoulder is yuge.

You can try there, but I wouldn't get upset about if it doesn't work. These are just grunts. Next time you will know to gapfill before priming.

hey buddy, do you reckon you could take some pics of your gaming table, with that mat and terrain? i'm looking at getting some and i'd like to see some stuff that isnt just promo shots

I'm surprised by how her skirt actually does look like a leather pencil skirt with that texture and shininess.

Not so much as WIP anymore but these are some miniatures I painted for a dnd campaign that just reached its conclusion.

Not my best work but my friends were normies and found them impressive.

Reverse side

Finished Ghurk, working on Otto and Ethrac.

Are my final highlights on these robe edges too light?

I would also like to know what mat/terrain that is

I'd recommend ending things on a drybrush, else they look dark and oily. That look can sometimes work on skeletons, but it doesn't really work there.

Also to avoid the crazed eyes look, do the opposite of what you've done. Don't dot in the black, paint the eye black and dot in the whites.

Got it, more planks. I need to press more minions into helping me cut

Looks perfectly fine to me, user.

Thin coats as the other user said, but that can still maybe be saved with a wash. What colour on such white skin though, I have no idea.

Unfortunately the coat is already uneven, so I dunno if it can be saved.

I fucking despise working with white colors. They are shit tier and a pain in the ass to deal with when painting.

Try a basecoat of Rakarth Flesh, a wash cut with Lahmian Medium, and highlight with Pale Wych Flesh.

I've tried working with pale skin and it sucks. I feel your pain user. Fuck white paint

>Bright yellow sucks too

Sorry, that was a shot from long ago at my flgs. I dont have any shots of the table itself. The mat is from Frontline Gaming.

Oh I think the dullcote was still drying at the time I took those pics. It's not very glossy in person.

For what it's worth user,
I think it looks amazing

How do you do that pavement look?

Also if anyone knows how to do cobblestones I'd love to know that too.

You should go back over the skirt with some satin gloss or something then. I like the look in that pic.

Need a recommendation for a torso for a khornestruction cultist warpsmith.

I was thinking the metal plague champ from the plague marine box,
But it's too heavy to wiggle with.

Any plastic recommendations? I also have a robot arm for one side. I plan on putting the cultist backpack with the wrenches hanging off of it.

To be safe, just prime before using that Khorne Red spray. If you use black primer, the areas that you might've missed with Khorne Red (small gap between backpack and torso, underside of miniature etc) have the added bonus of looking like shadows.

Have you thought about a Khorne Bloodbound torso? A few bits wouldn't be a stretch to take it from AoS to 40K.

>Plus they are in a starter kit so it should be easy to get one off eBay

Cool conversion btw.

>If you use black primer, the areas that you might've missed with Khorne Red (small gap between backpack and torso, underside of miniature etc) have the added bonus of looking like shadows.
That's actually what I normally do; it works pretty well. I'm just not sure I'll have enough daylight left to primer her and her Immolators. Oh well, not like I'm in a rush here.

Wasn't sure if I should go frumpy or tech priestly and hadn't considered full beefcake.

I'll look into my AoS overflow

user, I need to know your process of painting these faces. Please

I base coated in the darker color, dry brushed 3-4 corners of the base edge with my highlight colors, and glazed in between using a 50:50 mix. In this case, Vallejo Model Color Burnt Umber and Game Color Bone White. Then redefine the lines, make little scratches and 'splotches', and finally a bit of edge highlights

If you want a road pavement, I highly recommend Vallejo Oxide Paste. Just apply it flat on your base, primer, and paint/drybrush.

This looks mad, reminds me of a guy's Kroot army where he had like Kroot bursting out of the chests of Battlesuits and stuff.

Here's hoping my little press mold works. I made sure my hands were lathered in the correct holy oils while kneading the Milliput and sung the Litany of Duplication while I pressed the molds together.

I only hope the machine spirit of the Milliput aids me in my endeavor.

Yeah I more meant the actual construction of the base, not the painting.

ready to paint unless anyone can think of anything else i can add. i might do some little piles of rocks and stuff around the base.

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Does this look better? Or even more?

I would mix up some sand, pva and water and spread that shit around, especially in the corners for a grittier look and dirt piles. At the moment there's a lot of rubble with no rubble dust.

It really depends on how you want your trench to look.
If you're going to almost entirely cover the bottom with mud and gunk they're you're probably good with what you got there. If you're going to have a little bit more clean of a trench, you may want to add some more.

I used Vallejo Model Color, Calvary Red, Flat Earth, and Basic Skintone. Just need a tiny amount of that red mixed in with Flat Earth. Basecoat.

Do the eyes. Black first. Then a cold bluish grey (I used VMC, but a Citadel equivalent would be Space Wolves Grey). Finally painted the eyes back in. I always paint them looking to a direction, because for me, it's easier to paint half the eyea in than pinpoint them straight.

Finally, the rest of the face. Using the same skin mixture, I gradually add Basic Skintone as I build my highlights up - covering up and mistakes on the eyes. Also making sure to keep that eye outline.

Oh. I just used a polystrene sheet, scored the lines with a hobby knife, and went over those lines with a small flat file

thanks, do you think i could get away with some dirt texture paint?

That can work sure, but since that is more expensive I'd just use that in the corners and around blocks of rubble. The sand mix is just much cheaper, allowing you to be more liberal with it and clump it up more in corners.

>Skin
Forgot to mention that I used a very tiny watered down amount of Sepia Ink to refine the mouth.

And this isnt necessary, but sometimes I apply a VERY watered down Cavalry Red on the tip of the nose just to give a bit more tone to it

>my friends were normies and found them impressive
Kek, yeah I have a mate who anything he paints is praised by all his non-painting friends (I'd hesitate to call them normies as they're into all RPGs and stuff, but yeah they don't know too much about painting). He did one model with some freehand symbol on it, and in my mind I was screaming because it looks like he never went back and cleaned up the edges of the symbol with the darker background colour, but I'm like "yeah looks great man" since everyone else at the table was just praising it.

hows this? more dirty?

You need Sisters listening to their own bolt magazines. Name them Jenny.

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Yeah a bit more, I was more thinking about the blocks of rubble up top but yeah that helps for sure.

Some of the paint on the lil bugger looks awfully chalky to me, user. Other than the he looks pretty decent to me.

Jenny and Johnny. A match made in heaven.

You should do a little blending on the wings to soften the transitions between colors, right now they just look like stripes.

Continued working on my Neophytes. Got this faces and masks, only need to finish all of their arms.

The one on the far left is lacking a left arm only because I ended up painting the wrong one by mistake. Fucking hate keeping track of which arm goes with which when it comes to IG stuff.

Bane?

Those sexy as fuck hands though.

Finished
I wish the riders could snap in better so I could use them during play

Time for some jetbikes

Group photo
Hard to photograph large flat red surfaces I find.

Quick, Veeky Forums I need lots of miniatures paint

What brand is the bestest?

Does anyone know where I can get some bullet belts for my dudes? I want to drape my Catachans with them but I don't know where to look. Alternatively a good guide on sculpting them wouldn't be bad.

Vallejo. They sell some good bundles too, including army ones which cover everything from Confederates to Chaos Daemons. I also feel like Minitare is underrated.

Anvil sells all kinds of tacticool bits.

These should be perfect. They are resin so I can bend them too. Thanks user.

I wish. Then the only way he could die is if someone managed to pull his mask off somehow. And I hear that is extremely painful... for them.

Minitaire are pretty great. Good value and some colours I use a lot like Angelic Blood Red.

Zinge industries does flexible ammot belts of various sizes.
They are cast in a flexible plastic and there's a wire inside so they hold their shape.

Catachans already come with belts slung over their bodies, you could just glue ammo from the ork or SM scout kit onto them to get a similar effect.

each brand has some good paints

don't be a fool and restrict yourself to one brand